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Can this solvent brand be used for extracts?

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VGLFlamingFury

Rising Star
I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this but I'm new and I'm a bit confused.

I need a solvent for my DMT but VM&P Naphtha is impossible to find in Germany (btw I can only use amazon.de) Also I can't find Heptane and Hexane either so that's a problem as well.

I asked a few people and one said I could use Ronsonol. Although it's a bit expensive right now but I'm still thinking about it.

So I found this brand called Primus PowerFuel. It says that it's a very advanced blend of petroleum spirits with an excellent output. It also says it's greater than kerosene, diesel, naphtha etc. Could this possibly be used for extraction?
 
I can´t suggest Ronsonol as it´s not evaporate clean and leave some white like plastic residue. Be save :thumb_up:
 
VGLFlamingFury said:
I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum to post this but I'm new and I'm a bit confused.

I need a solvent for my DMT but VM&P Naphtha is impossible to find in Germany (btw I can only use amazon.de) Also I can't find Heptane and Hexane either so that's a problem as well.

I asked a few people and one said I could use Ronsonol. Although it's a bit expensive right now but I'm still thinking about it.

So I found this brand called Primus PowerFuel. It says that it's a very advanced blend of petroleum spirits with an excellent output. It also says it's greater than kerosene, diesel, naphtha etc. Could this possibly be used for extraction?
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Completely wrong forum, but anyhow... Just go down the High Street/Haupteinkaufsort and pick up a bottle of Waschbenzin or Reinigungsbenzin. There are so many liquid hydrocarbons (flüssige Kohlenwasserstoffe) to choose from, it's silly. Grillanzunder also works, maybe not the Bio stuff though, but with Grillanzunder you'll want to recrystallise the product using Waschbenzin.

If it's purity you're after you could pay through the nose for Wundbenzin from the Apotheke.
 
I don't fully trust any solvents as they are supplied, even if they do not leave a visible residue. Considering how inexpensive a ground glass distillation kit is now [costing about as much as a few hours at a nightclub, if bought from china on a popular auction site] I think the more serious of us should get used to distilling our solvents prior to first use.
The apparatus should have a stand to hold it, if using bare metal clamps remember heating glass expands, a tight bare metal clamp can easily break heating glass. The boiling flask can be heated in an oil bath, itself heated with an electric burner. Some boiling chips must always be added before heating or reheating. The apparatus should have a water-jacketed condenser which can be cooled by gravity feed between two large buckets, I put the output bucket half a meter lower than the source bucket and start the flow by connecting a funnel and raising it until the siphon effect will keep the flow going.
Water distillation lowers the temperature of a solvents boiling point for most solvents [azeotropic distillation]. By adding an equal volume of water, the boiling point of the solvents we pull with is reduced to 80-96º and the water and solvent separate again in the receiving flask.
Acetone and methanol do not carry water over and water can be added to allow the last of the solvent to safely distill over without overheating. Butanone, ethanol, and isopropanol will carry some water over but in these cases it will stay dissolved.
When distilling heavier fuels and naphthas with water its best to stop the distillation when the temperature at the distillation head reaches 98º because at 99-100º components that are very slow to evaporate will distill over.

I fully understand why the majority of people will never go this far, but it surprises me that almost no one does.
Why did you take chemistry in high school, if not to make drugs! :p
 
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