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chaligpona dcm extract gunk

Migrated topic.

flyboy

Rising Star
my cousin in india called said he tried to extract from chaliponga using dcm and looks as if what is preciping out of evap is some sort of gluey substance. I know he hasn't tried either chali nor dcm and i'm wondering if he's messed up.

secondly, he tried using naptha with some and noticed a distinct blood red layer of something floating on the -top- of the naptha? why does one thing float on top, the other underneath? Should he sponge that up with some mj? what is it or could it be.
 
Were defats preformed on the acidified extract before basifing?

Chali and other leafy DMT sources are notorious for having high oil content. Multiple defats are pretty much a must for these sources. STB or A/B w/o defats will always produce a goopy mess.

Can you ask your Indian cousin for some more info on his extracting process?

In the future, could you find this information out before posting. It will really help others to answer your question quicker and with more accuracy.

Thank you!
 
He read Coschi's tek but it seemed like an endless cycle and he only had 100g of chaliponga didn't seem worth it. He says some has dried into a crude colored subtance that doesn't look like spice but does feel waxy.

is there a better solvent he could have tried that might have aborbed less fat?
 
Do a freeze precipitation in heptane or naphtha to clean it up. It's rather simple.

Don't discard the oily material. Even if it is very clean, and you extracted with DCM and defatted 20 times, there will be oily and potent N-Oxides of DMT and 5-MeO-DMT present in your final product.

A freeze precipitation in heptane or naphtha will remove the oily DMT N-Oxide and 5-MeO-DMT N-Oxide because they aren't soluble in heptane or naphtha and will sink to the bottom of the solvent.

So dissolve your product in warm heptane or naphtha my mixing it thoroughly in the warm solvent. The DMT and 5-MeO-DMT will dissolve; the N-oxidise will not and will sink to the bottom. Then pour the warm solvent into another container and place it in the freezer to freeze precipitate nearly pure DMT and 5-MeO-DMT.

Remember, don't discard the stuff that won't dissolve in the heptane or naphtha because that contains yellowish oily DMT N-Oxide and 5-MeO-DMT N-Oxide. Both DMT N-Oxide and 5-MeO-DMT N-Oxide are water and DCM soluble and are yellow oils that won't solidify and both are very active. If you extracted with naphtha or heptane initially instead of DCM, you would have lost these precious alkaloids. Because chaligpona is a leafy material, it contains a lot of N-Oxides. By using DCM you got everything out of the plant and even a very clean extract would look like yellowish oil with a few DMT and 5-MeO-DMT crystals in it. You just need to separate the DMT and 5-MeO-DMT from the oily DMT N-Oxide and 5-MeO-DMT N-Oxide and you're good to go.

To use the oily DMT N-Oxide and 5-MeO-DMT N-Oxide, you can mix them into some dry powder calcium carbonate (available from vitamin shops) at a radio of 10:1 of calcium carbonate to N-oxide oil. This will make the N-Oxides into a dry powder that can be easily used.

"I like DMT N-Oxide more than DMT. I find it is a mellower smoother experience that also lasts a little longer than pure DMT.", but this is only true if the vaporization temperature isn’t too high. If it’s too high it breaks down into DMT and oxygen.
 
I started a thread about my friend's chaliponga extraction here:
To sum up, he did an A/B with multiple defats, pulled with heptane, and a small amount of something freeze preciped out - very fine and white. Any finer and he would have said that the heptane was just cloudy but this was definitely a precipitate that had settled to the bottom. He filtered it and got nothing. He evaporated it and got a small amount of residue which he sopped up with some salvia leaf.
Then he pulled with naptha and got roughly twice the amount of fine white precipitate as with heptane. It seemed a little chunkier so he tried filtering again, this time with a buchner funnel and #102 filter paper instead of a coffee filter. Nothing. He put the naptha back into the freezer and the same precipitate has fallen out.
Then he pulled with xylene and evaped and scraped up a ball of glossy purplish dark brown oily tar that sounds similar to what flyboy got using DCM.
His next chaliponga experiment is going to be using chloroform vs xylene pulling from a defatted A/B extraction.
I'll have him try it at pH 11 first but I'll hypothesize now that any appreciable agitation will produce an emulsion and that he'll have to take it to above 12 at least.
When my friend tried Coschi's tek, he got a very clean product, but the yield was awfully small. That has been the case with all of his chaliponga extractions so far, so I can't say if it's him, the tek, or the plant material. Once he gets a feel for just how much he can squeeze out of this stuff, he'll go back and give Coschi's method another shot and compare.
 
For SWIM the best method is the fumarate way as far as the chaliponga extraction is concerned, or as posted in the pure dmt fumarate topic:


Chronologically, SWIM decided to use fumaric acid saturated acetone (FASA) to salt out freebase alkaloids from non-polar solvent. In its philosophy, it sounds a bit like Cosci's tek.

So, the basified plant material was extracted with xylene. One may pull with repeated volumes of fresh xylene if one has a lot or re-use the same tiny amount (100ml for SWIM) again and again and again. SWIM opted for the second option because hates working with big volumes of xylene; it smells nice, but it is also alarm signal for the neighbours and whoever would like to stop you from doing what you are doing.
Anyway,

a) first xylene pull (coloured piss yellow) goes in an appropriate container.

b) FASA was added dropwise, xylene became cloudy due to the salted alkaloids. One cannot put too much FASA.

c) solutions was left overnite at room temperature allowing for the alkaloid-fumarate to sediment. Now one got them out of the xylene without the need to evaporate it!

d) Xylene was siphoned off and washed with plenty of water. This was done because this xylene had traces of acetone and fumaric acid that one does not really want. Water washed away fumaric acid and acetone, leaving back clean xylene (plus the yellowy plant oils that dissolved into it). This xylene was used for the second pull etc etc. By this approach one knows when to stop pulling since at some point there will be no alkaloids in the xylene to be salted out. it took SWIM 7 100ml xylene pulls to exhaust 240g MHRB.

e) fumarate alkaloids were washed 3 times with some acetone to remove any residual xylene and oily impurities.

f) Then they were dried in the oven at 70 Celsius until pretty hard.


By this method one can get all the alkaloids out in salt form, then proceed in doing an A/B using just minute volumes of solvents. And no defats are needed!

SWIM tried this tek with chaliponga BOTH with STB and A/B. SWIM also observed that If one does Coschi treatment to the first NP pulls (as SWIM did in the beginning) plenty of the alkaloids do not get sufficiently salted out when the NP is washed with acidic water. Using the FASA method SWIM was surprised to see how many alkaloids were left behind after the acid wash of NP.
 
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