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Direct e-mesh method howto step by step with images and video

Migrated topic.
new traveler here, looking for first breakthrough. confident can get it done with a bong, but not easily - got close on first real try (my second ever dmt trip), and found this thread, and read and read and read getting more and more excited, then got to the end and somewhat anticlimactic. if anyone has current appropriate RDA search terms for Ali express or others, would appreciate. did try, but came up with a big bag of fail.

not having held one, is it structurally hard to make? could we do something with enough heat resistance with one of the newfangled metal 3d printing technologies? I wouldn’t care if required delicate soldering, have done small smt repairs before. it seems there is a real market, I guess maybe Reddit, being bigger, could be a better place, but it’s not a place I feel comfortable interacting on.

Always,
n00b
 
I have edited the first post:
- Added working links
- New Recommended mod - Geekvape M100
- Removed img tags, as these don't show the images anymore. Click img links to see.
- Added tip for weighing and loading spice to mesh (Use tha half of an empty capsule)

If there is more that needs to be updated, please let me know.

Blessings
 
Propello said:
- New Recommended mod - Geekvape M100
Click to expand...
Geekvape Solo mk1 (original) is not recommended anymore? If I have a choice to get M100 or Solo (and Solo is cheaper) what should I stick with?
Thanks!
 
artificer said:
There might be something better for the money now but Geekvape Aegis has great temperature control for this purpose IME so I don't consider it outdated.

That Ctuhulhu Ceto looks like it'll work great out of the box, but haven't found one in stores around me. I just picked up a "Wotofo Profile P.S." RDA and am excited to try it out - I've successfully been using the original Profile but it's relatively small and thus more difficult to work with. The new P.S. is sold as a dual-mesh RDA, but the box includes parts to make it a large single mesh.

I threw in some course screen in it to give you a visual (I cannot find my 200 mesh screen), I think it'll work great once I spend more time getting right screen shaped the way I want it, I'm thinking it will be much easier to load. The screen on my old Profile has 25mg spice melted on it, you can barely see it.
Click to expand...
I know your post is from 2022 but can I ask how you removed the top center post on the PS? I just got one and while I do have it set up and ready to go in series, I'd like that little bit extra room on the bottom for the mesh. Does it just take a bit of force to remove or is there something holding it in?
wotofo profile ps series 150 mesh 2 nexus.jpg
 
Wayfaerer said:
I know your post is from 2022 but can I ask how you removed the top center post on the PS? I just got one and while I do have it set up and ready to go in series, I'd like that little bit extra room on the bottom for the mesh. Does it just take a bit of force to remove or is there something holding it in?
View attachment 96595
Click to expand...
Did you ever figure this out? I've just ordered a Profile PS and will be setting up with a single mesh. Looking at the cross section view on the website that center post is encapsulated by the peek insulation around it. I'm guessing it's a tight press fit and that you could carefully pull or pry it out. How has the Profile PS worked out for you?
 
Wayfaerer said:
I know your post is from 2022 but can I ask how you removed the top center post on the PS? I just got one and while I do have it set up and ready to go in series, I'd like that little bit extra room on the bottom for the mesh. Does it just take a bit of force to remove or is there something holding it in?
View attachment 96595
Click to expand...
Just an FYI for you or anyone reading this post that's curious about that center post, it is pretty easily removed with a small pry tool and/or a pair of pliers. Just make sure to take out the center screw first of course. Mine came out without too much trouble. It's in there as a tight press fit, but you can pry the shoulders with a blunt tool and get it loose. I didn't seem to damage the RDA by taking it out and it could be re-installed if a person kept the parts.

The Wotofo Profile P.S. is currently available on the manufacturers website. I ordered a couple and received them less than a week later. They shipped from within the US, so no hassle with Customs or tariffs. Another FYI is that the procedure to switch the bottom pin that is installed to switch it from series to parallel is different. You simply remove the bottom pin with the supplied hex wrench (mine was super tight!) and screw the parallel pin in. It took some force to get it seated fully, but it works perfectly. I've got a piece of 304 100 micron mesh in it and it seems to function perfectly. It'll be a while before I test it for real, but it's nice to have that hurdle cleared. Suitable RDA's are getting very scarce these days.
 
Thinnest film said:
Just an FYI for you or anyone reading this post that's curious about that center post, it is pretty easily removed with a small pry tool and/or a pair of pliers. Just make sure to take out the center screw first of course. Mine came out without too much trouble. It's in there as a tight press fit, but you can pry the shoulders with a blunt tool and get it loose. I didn't seem to damage the RDA by taking it out and it could be re-installed if a person kept the parts.

The Wotofo Profile P.S. is currently available on the manufacturers website. I ordered a couple and received them less than a week later. They shipped from within the US, so no hassle with Customs or tariffs. Another FYI is that the procedure to switch the bottom pin that is installed to switch it from series to parallel is different. You simply remove the bottom pin with the supplied hex wrench (mine was super tight!) and screw the parallel pin in. It took some force to get it seated fully, but it works perfectly. I've got a piece of 304 100 micron mesh in it and it seems to function perfectly. It'll be a while before I test it for real, but it's nice to have that hurdle cleared. Suitable RDA's are getting very scarce these days.
Click to expand...
sorry i didn't respond earlier, had spice hiatus. this is great to see someone else trying it out! all my stuff got put to the side for a long while, just starting putting it to use again and it still works great. Glad you're over that hurdle! Now to put it to use - predosing harmalas ftw
 
Hey guys! Maybe it's been posted before but I found this on reddit awhile back. Blueprints for a little basket for our emesh. The measurements aren't exactly 100% but with some adjustments it works quite well and looks super cool.
 

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Have you personally tried that basket? I saw that post originally, and made my own basket following that blueprint. Never tried it yet, kept using the old mesh for a while, and then forgot it.

If I remember correctly, the basket didn't heat evenly, and the legs were way hotter than the rest of it. IDK what impact that has on vaporization eficiency.
 
pantostao said:
Have you personally tried that basket? I saw that post originally, and made my own basket following that blueprint. Never tried it yet, kept using the old mesh for a while, and then forgot it.

If I remember correctly, the basket didn't heat evenly, and the legs were way hotter than the rest of it. IDK what impact that has on vaporization eficiency.
Click to expand...
I've used it many times and personally it seems fine. Maybe towards the very very center of the basket the temperature falls off a bit. I don't know, of course more research is always needed : )
 
My mod only allows 10s pulses in tcr mode. When I dial it in the way the guide describes at the beginning, it doesn't start to glow or match the wattage of step 5 until about 5 seconds in and I feel like thats gonna lead to incomplete hits.
Am i doing it wrong?

Using the aegis solo 3, 60w 140 tcr 390f. Used a ss mesh that came with the rda. Not sure type but registers as .1 ohms.
 
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