- Merits
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does such a thing exist? I can just boil it down into a goo and gelcap it? and, what are the toxic elements in harmala?

No worriesDigest Yourself said:By water I mean the aquas layer. The mimosa/lye/water...
I just want to know if it's ok to use less nap.
I'd think 1ml:2g is ok.
From a 1/2 lb mix doing 5 pulls ending up with 500ml of nap verse 1L.
My separatory funnel is 1000ml. I don't want to max it out and be unable to do my wash in it.
Sorry if I'm pissing people off by posting in the wrong areas.

MagicalOrangutan said:1. When you add the acidic water to the root bark, what PH should the acidic water be, or what range of temperature is acceptable?
2. I don't have a crock pot, but I do have a pyrex dish and stove top; can I put the mimosa/acidic water solution on the stove top and boil it for X minutes, then let simmer for X minutes? How should I do the acid extraction on a stove top?
3. I have pre powdered bark, so after cooking for a while on the stovetop, should I put everything in the dish in a glass jar, then decant everything on top and put the sludge at the bottom back in, and repeat as mentioned in the tek?
4. After I put the basic water in the vinegar solution, what PH should this mimosa extract/vinegar/lye/water solution be? When I read "basify to 13", that does mean neutralize the acidic water, then make it more and more basic till it's 13, right? Making sure "13" doesn't refer to the PH of the basic water that you're adding to the acidic extract.
Thanks. Stoned for the first time in a while, so sorry if this doesn't make that much sense
Ancotar said:Hello!
I personally have not attempted the Marsofold process yet, but have a couple of suggestions, but anyone else with more experience please step in and correct if need be!
For the acidic water to the root bark, I suggest a pH of 4. I would also suggest to stay at 110 degress farenheit or below.
For the absence of a crock pot, I do not see why a stove would not work. Just be sure to stir constantly and make sure the mix maintains a good simmer.
I believe when the tek calls for you to basify the solution to a pH of 13, that would be everything as a whole, not just the water or another element.
When extracting the naphtha from your jug/mason jar, I would first follow what is suggestedi n the tek, and then make adjustments from there.
Just a reminder, when working with the naphtha, make sure to be away from the stove and other sources of ignition!
To all, as I mentioned before, I have nto done this tek, these are suggestions based on my reading research alone! Please interject if needed.
MagicalOrangutan said:1. When you add the acidic water to the root bark, what PH should the acidic water be, or what range of temperature is acceptable?
2. I don't have a crock pot, but I do have a pyrex dish and stove top; can I put the mimosa/acidic water solution on the stove top and boil it for X minutes, then let simmer for X minutes? How should I do the acid extraction on a stove top?
3. I have pre powdered bark, so after cooking for a while on the stovetop, should I put everything in the dish in a glass jar, then decant everything on top and put the sludge at the bottom back in, and repeat as mentioned in the tek?
4. After I put the basic water in the vinegar solution, what PH should this mimosa extract/vinegar/lye/water solution be? When I read "basify to 13", that does mean neutralize the acidic water, then make it more and more basic till it's 13, right? Making sure "13" doesn't refer to the PH of the basic water that you're adding to the acidic extract.
Thanks. Stoned for the first time in a while, so sorry if this doesn't make that much sense
arctic research said:Through a fairly extensive tour through extraction teks available on the web, I've found some that seem do-able for a fairly green chemist such as myself. Most start with a fairly large amount of plant material. My question is: can these be scaled-down with no problems? Is it a matter of simple math, or are there problems I should be aware of drastically scaling down the tek.