Freebase Extraction from Paraffin to be Baseified Again

[beefrendang]

Hello. This is my first post.

Edit: Read post six, please!!

This is my first attempt at an extraction.
Potassium bicarb mixed with acacia, mixed that with kerosine (paraffin). Kerosine takes too long to evaporate or leave in the freezer so i tried siphoning the kerosine and mixing with acetone which produced small amounts of precipitate (dark orange) and clouds when breathed on. i tried doing this at different temperatures but doesn't seem too effective. So I'm planning on extracting dmt base from kerosine with vinegar to make dmt-acetate? from there i have to convert it into base right? Is the fastest way going to be to mix with sodium carbonate and then with naphtha? or can i use acetone because it avaporates faster? (people have meantioned ISO and im not sure if thats refering to isotonic or hydrocarbon prefixes). and then evaporate the naphtha after a freezer run. Surely there's a faster way to get baked and see some alians? I have been up 20 hours straight researching and i have a dissabilaty that makes it hard for me to sort this stuff and i'm scared mum will beat me for using her herbicites. (im an adult fyi). First post, thanks for the welcome in the chat.
Cheers, Goodnight.

 

[Tony6Strings]

Read. Learn. Educate yourself. A sharp mind is cooler than anything, and vice versa.

Regarding extraction: until you know what you are doing and why you are doing it, pick a tek and follow the directions.

Welcome to Nexus.

 

[beefrendang]

Well the thing is, for broke niggers like me, i can't afford to restart this. im thinking of just messing around until something works i guess. thanks for nuffin

 

[beefrendang]

Does anyone know if adding shellite (naphtha) and certain temperatures will form a third layer? that way i could get the freebase in the shellite extract that and atleast it would form chrystals in the freezer overnight instead of the kerosine in a week.

Side note: adding acetone to kerosine caused clouds to group and form big orange chrystals almost instantly but very few. Does anyone know optimum temperatures to use this method?

 

[beefrendang]

It seems the acetone forms a layer on top of the kerosine. Two questions:

Is there science backing the ability to move the dmt from kerosine to the acetone, even if it is converted to acetate? If so...
Does anyone know a formula to find the best temperature for acetone kerosine separation?

 

[beefrendang]

So if I mix the DMT containing kerosine with acetone and water it seems the DMT goes into the acetone which mixes with the water. I assume this is now DMT acetate in a water/acetone solution (+ bi-products?)? The kerosine which I don't really want floats on top. I tried extracting the bottom layer and boiling it but it just disappears with no visible traces of solids.

Should I mix the solution with sodium carbonate and see what happens? maybe it will extract the acetate and acetone apart from the water and DMT... then I could boil this and be left with freebase, but that sounds way too simple. Help, please!!

Thanks, A

PS I'm hoping my last option will work if all else fails, mixing shellite (naphtha) with the kerosine/DMT and extracting a hopefully newly formed layer of shellite to freeze precipitate. Or i'll go with the vinegar to sod card to freebase method.

Here are two links regarding a similar tek. one states using sodium carbonate only works on an A/B, is this right? Another said it didn't work for him.

Potential way to simplify extraction with naphtha and get clear product - Collaborative Research Project - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

Basification of DMT acetate with lime/sodium carbonate - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

 

[null24]

Do you have some kind of aversion to reading instructions? Like, when you buy something from Ikea, do you just toss the parts sheet and try to figure it out? It sounds like you are just making stuff up as you go along. Even if I could with this mess, I'm not really as inclined to help as I am to make jokes about these posts, but I'll refrain because I'm borderline offended, and it's too early in the AM for this crap and I promised to be nice.
Also, we can really do without the racist terms here.

 

[Seeingisbelieving]

SWIM is fond of STB extractions. Particularly Noman's tek. I've even heard from SWIM that they got 1 percent yield on 100 grams of acacia bark, pure white crystals. Just saying...

 

[beefrendang]

A black nigger can't cook? You sound like my biology teacher, but on the off chance you're not, I'll be nice.
I'll just assume you don't know if it will work or not. Next time don't comment. I'll get back to you with results if no one tells me if it will work or not, and then it will help others to not make the same mistake. Key word "help".

Good day.

 

[Tony6Strings]

I think using that word is ignorant and crude no matter what color your skin is.

 

[beefrendang]

Well you tend to use crude language when people aren't being helpful. Sorry if I hurt anyone or degraded the page's classiness by bringing my black ass in here.
Thanks for congesting the thread

 

[Seeingisbelieving]

This thread has ignorant written all over it.

 

[beefrendang]

You're not welcome on my thread if you're not going to be constructive toward the outcome. fuck off faggot

 

[endlessness]

Many red flags here.

First of all, you need to read the Attitude page if you want to stick around in this community. For example, we require a respectful communication.

Secondly, the recommendation given was incredibly helpful and one you should take heed. Do not improvise if you don't know what you are doing. All the information in how to extract DMT effectively and safely is here.

If your current situation regarding availability of chemicals and your budget make it so that you can't follow the methods as written, you should ask questions before improvising. We might have helped you find some tried-and-tested alternative method in the first place. The more you act with wrong chemicals and processes, the deeper a hole you might be digging.

Imagine you are walking somewhere and you see a person is trapped in a hole, asking for your help to get them out, and as you are getting the ropes together to hep them the person keeps digging the hole deeper, and when you suggest they shouldn't dig the holes deeper, they scream at you for being useless. Would you stay there and help? Be honest...

Also, DMT is possibly a way deeper and more transformative experience than "getting baked and seeing aliens". The experience can seriously humble you if you come in disrespectfully.


Anyway, since I'm a believer in humans and in second chances, I will give my input on the original question, hoping that you don't take it for granted and can take the above words to heart, changing your communication style here in the Nexus, and become one more good contributor and a wanted presence in the community.



1- The base you are using is not good. According to a quick search, it seems a concentrated solution of potassium bicarbonate raises pH only to 8.6. That is very weakly basic, which means according to this calculator, only 45% of DMT will be freebased. So more than half will not be dissolving in your non-polar

2- Kerosene is not at all a good non-polar. It has a very high boiling point, which means it will be very difficult to evaporate it. It might be it doesn't even evaporate clean, which means you'll never get DMT out if it, it will remain gooey or anyways taint your product meaning unsafe for consumption.

3- If you had mixed those things and waited before acting, I'd have suggested you add an appropriate base like sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide, and then salting out your kerosone with vinegar, evaporating the vinegar,

4- now you have a gigantic mess that is hard to follow. By mixing acetone to that whole thing you have now made it so that there is some DMT in the water with acetone, some DMT in the kerosene with acetone.

I can see this potentially being salvaged by separating the kerosene layer and salting it out with vinegar. That vinegar you can evap, add base and pull with acetone and evap the acetone to retrieve part of your yield.

Then the bottom acqueous layer you put on hot water bath (no open flames) to evap most of the acetone from it, then mix with sodium hydroxide ideally or if not possible then a lot of sodium carbonate, and then extract with naphtha and freeze the naphtha to retrieve your crystals.

 

[null24]

Far more patient than I, endlessness. TY.

I think that the racist homophobic crap needs to be called out and needs to go with a quickness though.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Surely there's a faster way to get baked and see some alians?

First place to sort things out is with this attitude, as Endy has said. You will have your own mess handed to you on a plate before long. (It's a learning opportunity, take it from me as an experienced idiot )

One observation worth making is thus: when boiling water is added to sodium bicarbonate, an intense effervescence takes place. This demonstrates that to a large extent the sodium bicarbonate is decomposed into sodium carbonate - a rather stronger base. While a slightly higher temperature might be required for potassium bicarbonate, it would be incredibly easy to prepare a farm more effective base for the extraction process.

The most minimal amount of background reading would have shown you that an established method for obtaining food grade base for conversion of DMT salts into the freebase form consists of heating sodium bicarbonate in a stainless steel pan. This would also apply to potassium bicarbonate.

Now, thinking about stronger bases - if you have access to an oxy-propane blowtorch, it's relatively simple to convert small amounts of calcium carbonate - chalk or limestone - into calcium oxide and subsequently calcium hydroxide. This can be reacted with your alkali (sodium or potassium) carbonate to produce alkali hydroxide and calcium carbonate. Decant the clear solution from the white precipitate and use on your acid bark extract.

(In principle the calcium carbonate can be dried out and converted back into calcium oxide as often as necessary.)

Does anyone know a formula to find the best temperature for acetone kerosine separation?

Just wash the kerosene with water a few times. This means adding water in an amount no greater than one fifth of the volume of kerosene, shake, allow to clear, then decant off the water. Doing this with three lots of fresh - preferably distilled or de-ionized - water should suffice. >This will only work if the kerosene is free from particulate matter, i.e. strain the bark off meticulously first.<

Does anyone know if adding shellite (naphtha) and certain temperatures will form a third layer?

Naphtha and kerosene are freely and completely miscible. They will not separate under any temperature conditions typically accessible in a domestic situation, unless you happen to have a fractionation column hanging around (in which case you most likely wouldn't need to ask this anyhow).

people have meantioned ISO and im not sure if thats refering to isotonic or hydrocarbon prefixes

This usually refers to isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) around here.

one states using sodium carbonate only works on an A/B, is this right?

Sodium carbonate works far better if the plant material has first been extracted with an acid boil. Even so, you wouldn't want to use an excess of acid as it requires a corresponding excess of base - and if that base happens to be an alkali carbonate there will a corresponding amount of foamy mess to be aware of.

I have been up 20 hours straight researching

Just a heads up, you'll get much better brain function with a regular, timely and sufficient sleep cycle.

Your report of acetone/kerosene separation is at least interesting. This kind of observation ability comes in very useful when extracting from plant materials. It would serve you well to put the effort into gaining a thorough grasp of the chemical principles behind the various types of extraction process. Then, when you are doing things, you will understand why you are doing them, before you do them, rather than simply tossing something into the mix and hoping for the best:

I'll get back to you with results if no one tells me if it will work or not, and then it will help others to not make the same mistake. Key word "help".

Do yourself a favour and learn the principles. Then you'll be able to tell beforehand whether or not what you plan to do is going to work. This isn't new science and you don't have to reinvent the wheel.

You're not welcome on my thread if you're not going to be constructive toward the outcome.

Spoiler

fuck off faggot

You're not welcome to use that form of address on this forum:

Attitude Page - DMT-Nexus Wiki

wiki.dmt-nexus.me

Banned yet?

 

[beefrendang]

Quick side notes.

I have sodium hydroxide 55% w/w, is this a safe base? (i think maybe it has steel or aluminum pieces in it)

Root powder has been sitting in the potassium bicarb for over a month and I just extracted the kerosine off the top for evap. (A snot-like sludge is at the top of the leftover which I removed, I hope this isn't potently soaked in DMT.) The powder/potas.bicarb mixture, it should still work if I add new Shellite/Naptha to it right?

The last of the acacia root bark I have has mold grown on it due to adding water to freeze to break down cell walls, should I worry about this when extracting? I assume purification will remove most of this tho.

Maybe if I add some sod.hydrox and the new root bark to the old mixture, the extraction should be the same as it would otherwise but with new material, right? (so no loss in potency of base).

I have a propane weed removal blowtorch I could do the lime base making with one day.

I can't believe that someone might actually read this, ill buy you a beer one day. Cheers, I think I'm just about a professional.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Nope, nope, nope and nope. And again, nope.

Drain cleaner - nope. Unless you remove the metal, and check the other ingredients carefully. Then maybe.

Potassium bicarbonate is too weak to make your extraction worthwhile.

Don't use mouldy bark.

Keep your new extraction separate.

An oxy-propane torch would be far better. With plain propane/air it takes ages, unless you build an enclosed kiln or furnace.

I can't believe I read this either.