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Growing large, rock-like DMT crystals

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chr0nic

Rising Star
Hello, Nexians!

For several years I have sought to grow rock-like large DMT crystals. I am aware I am not the first to do so- however, despite all my research I never found a comprehensive tek to reliably explain the process. Hopefully this is of use to somebody.

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Trillium Tek: Growing Large, Solid DMT Crystals

Recrystallization of DMT is extremely satisfying- it is marvelous to see the various structures this molecule can make when differing routes of crystallization are used. Most of the time extractors will use ‘freeze precipitation’ which yields small, dot-like crystals all over the surface of the collection dish. Another method is ‘slow evaporation’, which can create multiple delicate (yet extremely beautiful) structures.

I wanted to find a route to create a more traditional ‘rock salt’ style crystal. Despite a lot of researching online (and reading COUNTLESS papers on crystallography) I could not find a comprehensive tek on how this could be achieved with the spirit molecule. After years of tweaking, I managed to successfully create these- and wanted to share it with the world. The process is quite simple, the science similar to how crystals grow using freeze precipitation… however we use HEAT to control the formation, so it is uniform and rock-like when complete.

Materials Required:

· DMT – this one is obvious. However, I must stress that it is quite important to ensure the product is as pure and clean as possible. We are not speaking of color, as it is fairly well known that yellow DMT can be just as pure as white DMT… however, there are things you can do to improve the overall quality of your product, which will make growing these large rocks a lot easier (defat, water wash, carbon wash etc.) The starting material that successfully yielded my first batch of rocks was bone dry (i.e. – not oily, fatty)- so I recommend taking the time to purify your product before moving on.

· High quality NPS – you should be able to use naphtha, but if you can get your hands on heptane, hexane, bestine etc. then opt for this.

· A water-bath with variable temperature adjustability – okay, this may not be something you have lying around… but you can pick them up for a reasonable price. I bought mine for $50.00 (USD) and it allows me to vary the temperature within 0.1 degrees Celsius. HOWEVER, you can achieve the result with any way of keeping the water at the same consistent temperature. If you own a sous vide, and are not concerned about it running for several days, it will work.


· A completely airtight glass container / bottle – I recommend borosilicate glassware. They come in different sizes. Make sure the bottle you plan to use fits in your water-bath!

· Extra glassware (borosilicate) for heating the NPS

· Thermometer that can go up to 65 Celsius

· Safety gear (fire protection, safety glasses, respirator for fumes)

· Hotplate (you can use a kitchen stove-top, but DO NOT USE one with a naked flame burner!)

· Saucepan large enough to double-boil both vessels

Process:

- Prepare the water-bath. We want the temperature set to 40 Celsius. Place the bath somewhere where the temperature won’t fluctuate too wildly (i.e. – not in sunlight, not in a basement that freezes etc.) and will not be bumped or disturbed.

- Add DMT to your sealable vessel (dry)

- Add an amount of NPS to your other beaker- note, we will not be using very much for this process. Our aim is to make a SUPER SATURATED SOLUTION. This means that we do not want to add too much solvent to our DMT!! If you add too much NPS this process will not succeed. I generally will aim to warm up 50-60ml, but much of this will be added back into the bottle afterwards as it will be clean and unused.

- On your stovetop (again, NO NAKED FLAMES!) boil a saucepan of water. Once the water is sufficiently hot, add both vessels to the double-boiler; the dry DMT in your sealable bottle (currently unsealed), and the NPS.

- Eventually the DMT will melt into its liquid form. I generally remove the vessel from the boiler once it is completely liquid, as we do not want to boil our DMT.

- We are aiming to get our NPS to approximately 50 Celsius. We do not necessarily want to bring it to boiling point- but close to it. If your solvent gets to 55-60 it is fine... but unnecessary.

- Once the NPS is 50+ Celsius you will carefully pour a small amount into the DMT. How much? It depends on how much material you used… however, as little as possible. If you're using 250mg - 500mg start with a tablespoon or so… swirl the heated NPS around in the DMT bottle and get it to mix as well as possible. The solvent will cool quite fast, as we have poured it into a (nearly cool) container. Place the DMT bottle with minimal NPS back in the double-boiler and allow the two to thoroughly mix.

If you notice that there are still noticeable ‘chunks’ of product then you may not have added enough. If you notice crystals begin to reform, or the mixture is clouding in the bottle, add *slightly* more solvent and put it back in the double-boiler. We want to keep the mixture as saturated as possible- but also do not want any leftover DMT undissolved in the solution. When you are convinced that your DMT and solvent are both completely mixed then we seal the container with our lid ensuring that it is airtight.

- Immediately place the sealed container in the water-bath preheated at 40 Celsius. Leave it the container in there for at least 48hrs. Do not move the bath or container, the crystallization process is delicate.

How it works:

The basic principle is the same as freeze precipitation: the solvent has a maximum amount of DMT it can carry at different temperatures. When we freeze precipitate, we are lowering the amount the solvent can carry… so the DMT crashes out quickly.

This tek works in a similar way- but at much higher temperatures. At 50 Celsius we have created a supersaturated solution… meaning that the solvent is carrying 100% at an abnormal temperature. When it cools, the crystals will want to fall out of the solution on their own. We are then lowering the temperature- but not by much, only 10 degrees or so. The DMT will fall out of the solution, but MUCH slower- and more uniformly, due to the heat. Within 24hrs there will be small pebbles in the solution, then after 48-72hrs they will have grown to 100-150mg rocks.

My first batch produced 4x large crystals that, when dry, were between 65 – 100mg in size. It also made several smaller “sugar sized” crystals which I plan on keeping for seeding purposes. At this point you have a choice: you can remove the crystals with tweezers, if you have a steady hand… or pour out the solvent and fan-dry your container to remove the last of the NPS, then use a butter knife to dislodge the rocks. The solution is now unsaturated, so you cannot simply place it back into the water-bath to proceed… however in theory you could evap some of the solvent to continue, or add more DMT to the solution, if you wanted to keep growing in the same batch.

Realistically there is no reason one couldn’t make a REALLY large rock using this tek but continually dissolving DMT into the vessel with the target crystal.

I had wished to be able to fine-tune this tek more before posting. However, I was eager to show off the fruits of my labor, which immediately caused people to ask how it was done… I didn’t want to keep people waiting, as I believe knowledge should be shared and improved upon as a community. Some of the things I wanted to try to improve on:

- Lowering the temperature gradually using the water-bath: Perhaps starting at 50 Celsius and dropping it by 1 degree per day to see if that yielded a better/cleaner product

- Seeding the mixture with one of my large crystals and adding more product to the mixture to make a massive rock

- Experimenting with white/clear DMT to make some colorless examples

However, these things will all happen in time from you amazing people. I’m sure the process will be refined over time- I will post some photos of future batches I create as they are finished.

I look forward to seeing DMT rocks you all make 😊
 

Attachments

  • Trillium+Tek.pdf
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Those are impressive. Thank you for this write up. I have also tried a few times to grow xtals but never with such results as these. I have managed to produce some quite pretty looking results although they are so delicate they never last long.

How would you smoke these, or, what would you do with them now?
 
Wow crazy rocks you got there!

How would you smoke these, or, what would you do with them now?

I guess all that work is more to make something to watch at the shelf instead of using it up :love:



When it cools, the crystals will want to fall out of the solution on their own. We are then lowering the temperature- but not by much, only 10 degrees or so.

Before you say it could be heated even to 55 - 60 °C, but would be unnecessary.

I think then it would be important to lower it indeed to 40 °C AKA (up to) 20 °C. If DMT is liquid it will still mix with the Naphtha, so you would want to definetly go below that melting point. Maybe make a check at which temperature a really small DMT crystal will melt in your water and at which temperature it will not. Then that second temperature should be the maximum that is used for that water bath.


But these pictures speak enough that you really know how to grow the biggest rocks on earth :shock: :twisted:
 
😳
Holy Buffo Batman!
That is unbelievable, famine! Is that synthesis or some serious toad squeezing?

P.S. Love the look of the scale too - much good work under the belt there it seems!
 
merkin said:
😳
Holy Buffo Batman!
That is unbelievable, famine! Is that synthesis or some serious toad squeezing?

P.S. Love the look of the scale too - much good work under the belt there it seems!
It is fully synthetic.

Hailstorm said:
I can highly recommend an analytical balance like OHAUS PR224, from an online retailer at a deep discount. You will find it as invaluable as your hotplate.
Yes we have much better scale in the lab. What % discount you got for the OHAUS?
 
famine said:
Yes we have much better scale in the lab. What % discount you got for the OHAUS?
I got mine for ~$1500 a few years ago after shopping around, new. I am checking the place where I bought it and it is listed for over $2000 now, but you can request a quote.

It is a tremendous time-saver. You can load your flasks/beakers with reactants right on the scale itself. The only more convenient thing I can imagine is a hotplate that doubles as a balance :)
 
Hailstorm said:
famine said:
Yes we have much better scale in the lab. What % discount you got for the OHAUS?
I got mine for ~$1500 a few years ago after shopping around, new. I am checking the place where I bought it and it is listed for over $2000 now, but you can request a quote.

It is a tremendous time-saver. You can load your flasks/beakers with reactants right on the scale itself. The only more convenient thing I can imagine is a hotplate that doubles as a balance :)
Not bad at all. I am not a fan of loading reagents right into the beaker on the scale though. I definitely need to invest a better scale for home though!
 
fink said:
Those are impressive. Thank you for this write up. I have also tried a few times to grow xtals but never with such results as these. I have managed to produce some quite pretty looking results although they are so delicate they never last long.

How would you smoke these, or, what would you do with them now?

Thanks, fink!

I actually started off, as strange as it sounds, hoping to make a gem pendant from the crystal. At the time I knew these results were possible, but doubted they would withstand body tempreture or be strong enough to fashion into jewellery.

...however these little pebbles are so hearty that it would be possible, so I am going to revisit this idea.

With that in mind, I am planning on vaporising one in my GVG on Monday 😁

I believe best results would be from crushing it down to a shattered dust, then weigh / load as normal.
 
Twilight Person said:
Wow crazy rocks you got there!

Before you say it could be heated even to 55 - 60 °C, but would be unnecessary.

I think then it would be important to lower it indeed to 40 °C AKA (up to) 20 °C. If DMT is liquid it will still mix with the Naphtha, so you would want to definetly go below that melting point. Maybe make a check at which temperature a really small DMT crystal will melt in your water and at which temperature it will not. Then that second temperature should be the maximum that is used for that water bath.


But these pictures speak enough that you really know how to grow the biggest rocks on earth :shock: :twisted:

That's a really good idea, it would well be worth fine tuning the temps... I have one large crystal that I have been testing on- I put it on the oven, it began to get shiny and moist around 50C, measured with a candy infra-red thermometer. I took it out, so your suggestion will be the next test, I think!

Thanks for the great input and kind words.
 
Jees said:
That is impressive Chr0nic, thanks for sharing, the eye candy is so cool :thumb_up:

Thanks, Jees! There is nothing more satisfying than succeeding in something you have been puzzling over for years :)
 
famine said:
One of my smaller rocks of 5-MeO-DMT. I'll make something cool of DMT soon :) Yes it was much bigger and I smashed it with a hammer.
image.png

:shock: It's beautiful. I'm getting reactivations just looking at the picture :lol:
 
chr0nic - very nice work there in your pdf.

An additional method worth following up is called 'Ostwald ripening'. Essentially, by gently and repeatedly cycling the temperature up and back down, this will cause the small crystals to dissolve and the large crystals to grow. Small crystals have a higher surface area:volume ratio so they dissolve more quickly. Eventually the smallest crystals will disappear and only larger crystals will remain.

If you've already covered this in your text, I offer pre-emptive apologies for skimming badly. Actually, looking once more, I see that this is going to be occurring with in a sous-vide anyhow, since the thermostat will not be holding the temperature completely steady. This ripple in the temperature helps contribute to the successful growth of larger crystals - lovely! :thumb_up:
 
hey @chr0nic

super easy to follow, and makes a lot of sense considering the principles of freeze-precip. BUT, i'm confused why you seal the NPS container. is your hope that you only lower the temp to cause crystallization? even though the pressure should (?) reduce while temps drop, aren't you concerned about pressure the pressure and volatility of the NPS causing issue with the glass? as i understand it the glass isn't stronger in that sense, just in temperature shifts. i bring this up because i read a story about a guy who shook a warm vessel of NPS and it exploded on him (with NaOH soup in it) and caused lacerations as well as chemical burns.

also.. wouldn't letting the supersaturated solution evaporate through a coffee filter type-lid help keep the solution super saturated and further encourage crystallization over time?

thanks for the writeup and pictorial! i plan on doing this pretty soon with some highly contaminated stock.
 
Ah, proprietary formats - borderline obsolete proprietary formats 🤗

I've noticed we could mention arrangement at some point. I love doing arrangement. With any luck I can coax my wheezing old machine (speaking of obsolete…) into doing something useful.
 
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