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Harmala extraction.... my god

69ron said:
I'm disappointed in the other posters saying it's so fast of a process. Even the well documented professional tech recommends a full day or two for the initial salting.

If you did it in a few hours, you didn't do it right and you threw a lot of harmala alkaloids away because they take longer than a few hours to initially precipitate out the first time the salt is added. It takes at least 1 day for most of them to precipitate out.
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ilpt disagree. His initial salting completely happened when he is asleep and is no more then 8hours sometimes less then that. He even tried recovered alks. from salted matter liquor and recovered next to nothing from it. He using very concentrated solution(he boiling down a lot) But ron tell us how to extract spice in one hour? Ilpt can't do that at all.
 
well - after the salting is complete and filtered the solution is always placed back in the fridge - usually almost nothing more precips - so ron, not sure about that one dude.
 
69ron said:
You can extract DMT down to crystals in less than 1 hour and some harmala extractions take days because of the initial salting. The first time SWIM did it, it took 2 days for the initial salting to complete.
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Swim would like to know what this process is, evaping down 200ml of naptha takes 40mins with a fan, so how is a 1hr extract possible?
 
mumbles said:
69ron said:
You can extract DMT down to crystals in less than 1 hour and some harmala extractions take days because of the initial salting. The first time SWIM did it, it took 2 days for the initial salting to complete.
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Swim would like to know what this process is, evaping down 200ml of naptha takes 40mins with a fan, so how is a 1hr extract possible?
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Just do a direct freeze precipitation from the 1st pull, nice pure crystals will form in less than an hour. Decant and save the remaining solvent and by this time the preciped crystals are almost dry. DMT in an hour :)
ron will prolly have some genius way of doing it though lol.

My current rue extraction will be my first and last. Its defo a great learning experience, but filtering, collecting, redissolving, precipitating.. more filtering, nah! I'll invest in a big bag of Caapi and a small tub of caapi copy next time.
 
btw.. When you slow down with the whole process it becomes much easier and more chilled out. At one point I think I was rushing it a bit and couldn't remember where I left my alkaloids lol.
My end product still has salt in there though. Should I just redisolve it in more acetic solution, base it again and then collect the precips? Please tell me theres no more salt involved... thats the part the does my nut in.
 
I went into it with the preconception that it would be just as easy as all the others, but this one has its little own "tricks" as they say.

Cheers for the help bro :)
 
I've never extracted harmalas so I have a noob question.
What's the difference extracting from rue versus caapi?

Are you all here talking about extracting from rue seeds?
 
If you did it in a few hours, you didn't do it right and you threw a lot of harmala alkaloids away because they take longer than a few hours to initially precipitate out the first time the salt is added.
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well, just collect the first round of harmalas and then let the soup sit in the drawer until you think about it again.

I think it's a very nice extraction...the painful filtration process excluded.
 
camakazi said:
Just do a direct freeze precipitation from the 1st pull, nice pure crystals will form in less than an hour. Decant and save the remaining solvent and by this time the preciped crystals are almost dry. DMT in an hour :)
ron will prolly have some genius way of doing it though lol.
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That sounds like that would leave most of the alkaloids in the solvent and take more than an hour. In swims opinion if you are going to do something take the time to do it right.

For the filtering a steel strainer above the filter paper or cotton helps a lot but it still takes its sweet time, just go do something else and come back to it :)
 
I usually stir for a good half an hour, then let it precipitate for at least 2 hours, but if you really wanted to you could speed things up and have a good amount of DMT in 1 hour ;)

This method will yeild a cleaner product in less time, give you more of it and save you money!

Think of your solvent as a liquid sponge... soaking up DMT molecules and spitting them out via freeze precipitation. I repeat this 5x with the same 100ml of naphtha per 50g of MHRB and yeild between 1.2 and 1.4 of pure white DMT crystals. Remember not to let your solvent rise above room temp as it will start to pick up fats and other alks and you'll end up with a yellow product.
I myself love a bit o the olde yella, so on the 5th pull I warm the naphtha, yank it right out and then do a full 3 day evaporation.

Just because its different from the way you do it... dosen't mean its not the right way.

Peace!
 
camakazi said:
Think of your solvent as a liquid sponge... soaking up DMT molecules and spitting them out via freeze precipitation. I repeat this 5x with the same 100ml of naphtha per 50g of MHRB and yeild between 1.2 and 1.4 of pure white DMT crystals. Remember not to let your solvent rise above room temp as it will start to pick up fats and other alks and you'll end up with a yellow product.
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Interesting! Swim keeps his naptha extracts at 50c but by doing more extractions than swims 3 you end up at the same point. And nice point about the solvent being a liquid sponge haha.
 
DMTripper said:
I've never extracted harmalas so I have a noob question.
What's the difference extracting from rue versus caapi?

Are you all here talking about extracting from rue seeds?
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No one here extracted harmalas from caapi?
 
DMTripper said:
DMTripper said:
I've never extracted harmalas so I have a noob question.
What's the difference extracting from rue versus caapi?

Are you all here talking about extracting from rue seeds?
Click to expand...

No one here extracted harmalas from caapi?
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You percolate , reduce , and then basify.
Or boil , freeze, decant , reduce and then basify ;)
 
camakazi said:
I usually stir for a good half an hour, then let it precipitate for at least 2 hours, but if you really wanted to you could speed things up and have a good amount of DMT in 1 hour ;)

This method will yeild a cleaner product in less time, give you more of it and save you money!

Think of your solvent as a liquid sponge... soaking up DMT molecules and spitting them out via freeze precipitation. I repeat this 5x with the same 100ml of naphtha per 50g of MHRB and yeild between 1.2 and 1.4 of pure white DMT crystals. Remember not to let your solvent rise above room temp as it will start to pick up fats and other alks and you'll end up with a yellow product.
I myself love a bit o the olde yella, so on the 5th pull I warm the naphtha, yank it right out and then do a full 3 day evaporation.

Just because its different from the way you do it... dosen't mean its not the right way.

Peace!
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Strange. SWIM uses very warm naphtha, freeze precips, and gets nothing but white.
 
I was able to cut out many many hours of the process by using cosmic lions full spectrum caapi tek with a slight modification. I skipped the full boil reduction step and just boiled from 10 gallons down to 5 then used cheap sodium carbonate to sufficiently base the water to crash out the harmalas and followed the tek from there on out. Not sure how it effected the yield as I did not further purify it but a fairly potent crude alkaloid mix was recovered. I plan to attempt again with NO boil reduction which would reduce time needed significantly. This time I will purify and then measure yield.
 
SWIM has done this 4 times, once boiling the seeds and it was the most annoying extraction he's done.

The other times he just used boiling water from a kettle to steep the seeds (10-25 minutes a pull maximum) in a liter bottle then the brew is shaken left the settle and only the water decanted off

removing steam from the extraction prevents the brew from being thick and oily, with this method the brew is filtered through a cloth, then a cotton ball in a couple minutes to make a clear brew.

It does require quite a bit of water, but not as much as the cold water extractions.

He did 66g of syrian rue with about 2.75-3.5 liters. The last pull was mildly yellow only, he hasn't worked out the exact solubility.
 
q21q21 said:
SWIM has done this 4 times, once boiling the seeds and it was the most annoying extraction he's done.

The other times he just used boiling water from a kettle to steep the seeds (10-25 minutes a pull maximum) in a liter bottle then the brew is shaken left the settle and only the water decanted off

removing steam from the extraction prevents the brew from being thick and oily, with this method the brew is filtered through a cloth, then a cotton ball in a couple minutes to make a clear brew.

It does require quite a bit of water, but not as much as the cold water extractions.

He did 66g of syrian rue with about 2.75-3.5 liters. The last pull was mildly yellow only, he hasn't worked out the exact solubility.
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question is, what was the yield when you didnt boil the seeds?

as I argued already before in different threads, I find that only if one is expecting immediate results and is standing looking at the filtering waiting for it to finish (in case one doesnt have vacuum), then rue extraction is annoying. The trick is to filter thoroughly before the first precipitation, with progressively finer filters so that it never takes too long on each filter. Also, when filtering to retrieve the precipitates, one should fill the funnel with coffee filter or the buchner till the top, forgets about it, and comes back after a couple of hours to add more liquid to the filter (because more liquid = more weight pushing down so faster filtering). Another idea is to have a few funnels/buchners with filters, to aid in speed. Vacuum makes things much easier too (though still the tricks im mentioning are very useful)

If its the first manske round, there's also no need to filter till completely dry.. once its a thick mush, one can put it together in another container and redissolve in hot water, filtering again a few times to remove non-actives and then precipitate with the base. After the first manske and first base precip, filtering becomes much easier
 
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