How does one "load" a dose with the machine?

[lorentz5]

SWIM's read the wiki and this and still doesn't understand. So you have a bottle with a small and large opening, and a metal mesh stuck in the neck. So where does the DMT go? The wiki says on the

mesh plug inside of the pipe, on which the product is to be placed, melted and vaporized

This is my understanding:

1. Heat metal mesh for awhile, let cool
2. Insert metal mesh into neck
3. Sprinkle crystals on the top of metal mesh while the mesh is in the neck of the upright standing machine
4. Heat neck with torch at temperatures 44.6-44.8° to allow crystals to melt into goo
5. Invert the machine and heat the neck at temperatures 60-80° to allow it to vaporize

Is that correct?

 

[biohazard72]

Looks good to me. Be careful loading the neck though. You may want to pack the mesh in a little bit below the lip of the bottle so there's a little groove for the powder to sit in, otherwise it could fall out while melting in.

P.S. Once the dose is melted in completely, don't bother trying to melt it in any further/better, it could just cause loss of material or it could shatter the neck. As long as you don't see any solid spice in the plug you're good.

 

[q21q21]

SWIM thinks that heating the neck is making it too much like a bulb and a little dangerous.
Even when heating the neck do it slowly, please.(SWIM is saying this from speculation, his machine's mesh sticks out and he heats directly but from the bottom, away from the spice.)

When SWIM uses his machine (after loading) he just holds the lighter (3 for dollar, poor quality, but more than enough) 3 inches or so under the metal and it starts to vaporize from there.

SWIM tokes while slowly moving the lighter closer, during the last toke SWIM lets the flame hit the metal, but most of the time all the vapor is already vaporized.

Make sure to NOT get "steel wool" it is MUCH TOO THIN. SWIM uses copper scrubbers. 6 for $1 at the dollar store and enough for 50 or so "machine bowls" as SWIM likes to call them.

 

[amor_fati]

Generally SWIM would prefer to load at the opposite side of the plug from where the torch is applied (from inside the chamber of the piece), but from your description, it sounds as though SWIY's loading from the top of the bottle neck?

 

[lorentz5]

Generally SWIM would prefer to load at the opposite side of the plug from where the torch is applied (from inside the chamber of the piece), but from your description, it sounds as though SWIY's loading from the top of the bottle neck?

Yeah that makes sense. SWIM has read the mini-machine guide and is wondering whether (1), (2), or (3) is the best method of vaporization.

(1) is the machine constructed out of a wine bottle, spice placed on inside
(2) is amor_fati's bubbler found plus a test tube (SWIM saw a diag of this someplace on the nexus, can't remember where)
(3) is the bubbler above with a mini-machine instead of a test tube, as shown here

Are there differences in using a candle, butane torch lighter, or a regular lighter - or do they all get the job done?

And, if one does not have a 2-hole stopper, is it alright to just make holes in a piece of rubber that fits as long as they are airtight?

Also, amor, why does your wikitek lack the coils you described here ?

 

[amor_fati]

(1) is the machine constructed out of a wine bottle, spice placed on inside

Likely SWIY wouldn't necessarily have to do this, but if it were loaded from the outside, much of it would be too exposed to the naked flame.

(2) is amor_fati's bubbler found plus a test tube (SWIM saw a diag of this someplace on the nexus, can't remember where)

This was inspired by 69ron:
Improvised Labware Vapor Bubbler - DMT Discussion - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
This one's interesting as well, and SWIM drew inspiration for his current model from it:
Improvised Labware Vapor Bubbler (continued) - Vaping/Smoking - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus

(3) is the bubbler above with a mini-machine instead of a test tube, as shown here

SWIM never built his original model for a bubbler, but this is his current model. SWIM's going to be designing one similar to what you attached in your post (http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/2941/adminz.jpg), but with a slightly downward angled tube to keep the oil in the plug as it heats. Also, in your illustration, the nozzle hasn't been removed; perhaps this will work, but SWIM finds it preferrable to expose as much of the plug as possible. With the way SWIY has it illustrated, it seems like it would result in overheating the glass. Also, with the spice on the side of the plug that you show it on, it will be heated too directly (it will work, but not so well as if it were loaded from the opposite side).

Are there differences in using a candle, butane torch lighter, or a regular lighter - or do they all get the job done?

SWIM didn't have a whole lot of luck with with a bic light and wouldn't recommend using a candle due to the smoke produced and difficulty in use with a machine/bubbler combo.

And, if one does not have a 2-hole stopper, is it alright to just make holes in a piece of rubber that fits as long as they are airtight?

SWIM would imagine so, but handheld hole cutting devices for stoppers do exist. SWIM's current model works like a pull-stem, but his next will have a carb using a two-hole stopper (SWIM will likely make the holes, himself).

Also, amor, why does your wikitek lack the coils you described here ?

SWIM's original prototype of the current model used a spring, but SWIM found that it was largely in the way when loading and simply accumulated oil without being able to heat it very well without getting the device too hot. The old models used the springs as a catch for the oil, so it wouldn't allow too much runoff to the mouthpiece and would make it possible to heat that runoff (though those devices involved much more heating than the new models). More importantly, they simply kept the plug in position, but with the new models, it's preferrable for the plug to be able to move within the stem to recover active runoff.


SWIM thinks SWIY's bubbler design is just fine, but if SWIY is going to be using an inhalation tube like that shown instead of using a flask with a sidearm, he'll either need a third hole for a carb or set it up as a pull-stem. Also note SWIM's prior comments regarding the angle of the bubbling tube.

 

[lorentz5]

SWIM thinks SWIY's bubbler design is just fine

Which one? The second one (with the test tube) or the third (with the minimachine)? (in the diagram from previous post) SWIM would think the minimachines would have some advantage over the test tubes, right?

but if SWIY is going to be using an inhalation tube like that shown instead of using a flask with a sidearm, he'll either need a third hole for a carb or set it up as a pull-stem. Also note SWIM's prior comments regarding the angle of the bubbling tube.

SWIM is not very informed with glass pipe terminology, so he would like to clarify his understanding:

A. load DMT into test tube
B. Hold carb closed (carb is the hole in the erlenmeyer, not one in the test tube)
C. Heat test tube with lighter from a distance of about 3in
D. After about 30 seconds, open the carb and inhale all the vapor

If one loads a 20mg practice dose, is it possible (likely) for a newbie to vaporize all of his DMT, and take it all in one hit? If the vapor is too hot or some other problem arises, would it be prudent to just cover up all the holes in the apparatus until one is ready again?

(diagram)
(1) is simply one of two holes in the (angled) test tube
(2) is simply a hole in the test tube attached to a tube
(3) is the tube that enters the water
(4) is the carb (the middle hole)
(5) is the inhalation tube

 

[amor_fati]

SWIM has never used a test-tube oiler and only posted that as a potential bubbler expansion upon 69ron's proposal. What you have pictured there is exactly what SWIM proposes, except with a mini-machine; SWIM would also likely use a vacuum flask so that he only needs two holes in the stopper for the carb and inlet.

Oilers (pieces requiring direct heating of the glass for vaporization...like a light bulb or test-tube) are tricky for most, but the machine is very simple and reliable.

 

[lorentz5]

SWIM has never used a test-tube oiler and only posted that as a potential bubbler expansion upon 69ron's proposal. What you have pictured there is exactly what SWIM proposes, except with a mini-machine; SWIM would also likely use a vacuum flask so that he only needs two holes in the stopper for the carb and inlet. Oilers (pieces requiring direct heating of the glass for vaporization...like a light bulb or test-tube) are tricky for most, but the machine is very simple and reliable.

Awesome. It looks so simple now that SWIM understands. SWIM will try to post back here with a pic as soon as he gathers all the parts

 

[lorentz5]

SWIM had another question: for the mesh, SWIM sees your design has some copper AND stainless steel components, correct? If yes, did SWIY find that using a combination of the two work better than either one alone?

 

[amor_fati]

SWIM had another question: for the mesh, SWIM sees your design has some copper AND stainless steel components, correct? If yes, did SWIY find that using a combination of the two work better than either one alone?

SWIM's only using copper, but he'll likely switch to stainless steel when he runs out, as it's likely safer (though he honestly has very few worries in the matter, considering how little heat he actually applies). SWIM will also be experimenting with ceramic fiber soon may end up foregoing steel altogether if that works out well.

 

[lorentz5]

SWIM will try to post back here with a pic as soon as he gathers all the parts

Here it is: SWIM's fugly-ass bubbler:

Mesh isn't in the pic. Red tape is just for airtightness. SWIM just drilled 3 holes in his stopper and stuck droppers with severed heads in all of them. Then, he attached tubes to two of them (the inlet to the dmt-holding dropper and the outlet to the moutpeace) and left the third one for a carb (can't see from this angle; it's behind the two tubes). The string is just for the 45 degree angle for easier heating.

 

[amor_fati]

A bit rough, and SWIY may get quite a bit of precipitation in that vinyl tubing (due to the length, material and curve). If SWIY does end up with a good amount of precipitation, it should probably be washed out with vinegar, which can then be collected for recycling that spice; make sure to neutralize insides of the tubing with sodium carbonate solution and wash out with water prior to use after a vinegar cleaning. SWIM prefers jointed glass tubing, as it's easier to clean and would likely result in less precipitation (SWIM isn't positive on this, however).

Overall though, SWIM thinks it should work well enough and is an excellent start. Remember not to let the glass piece get too hot, which it shouldn't if the torch is pointed directly at the mesh (though from a slight angle, not directly in line with the tube, seems to prevent overheating) and only for as long as need be (likely a few seconds).