Dirty T said:Yes, you can wash with distilled water and sodium carbonate. Mix in a jar and shake, once it all settles pipette off the Naptha. Do this 3 times and it should clear up your yellow Naptha. Be sure to backsalt first to get all the goodies out (Freebase DMT has a solubility of 112mg per 100ml at -20c) BEFORE cleaning your Naptha.
Yes, using yellow Naptha to Freeze Precipate will result in yellow crystals, to be honest I like the light yellow crystals better than the white. From what I've seen from testing done here properly performed extraction results in a very pure product even when it has a color.
ShamanisticVibes said:Dirty T said:Yes, you can wash with distilled water and sodium carbonate. Mix in a jar and shake, once it all settles pipette off the Naptha. Do this 3 times and it should clear up your yellow Naptha. Be sure to backsalt first to get all the goodies out (Freebase DMT has a solubility of 112mg per 100ml at -20c) BEFORE cleaning your Naptha.
Yes, using yellow Naptha to Freeze Precipate will result in yellow crystals, to be honest I like the light yellow crystals better than the white. From what I've seen from testing done here properly performed extraction results in a very pure product even when it has a color.
Interesting! I am super grateful for you spelling out so I can understand. I will try this with my next pulls. One thing I do not understand is what you mean by "backsalt". I see it mentioned a bunch when I search it, but I can't seem to find the actual process. Again I apologize, but I have no formal training in this area and have only ever performed two extractions, so I am very much a noob to all of this.
dreamer042 said:Wash, backsalt, then recrystalize.
Wash: When the alkaloid is in solvent add some slightly basic water, mix thoroughly and allow the layers to separate, discard the water layer. This will remove impurities that are water soluble.
Backsalt: When the alkaloid is in solvent add some slightly acidic water, mix thoroughly and allow the layers to separate, discard the solvent layer, base the water layer and pull the alkaloid back into fresh solvent. This will remove the solvent soluble impurities.
Recrystalize: After collecting the alkaloid, re-dissolve in fresh warm solvent (use a warm water bath away from heat sources), allow the solvent to cool to room temperature, impurities will settle to the bottom of the container, decant the solvent off from the impurities and proceed with freeze precipitation.
Bonus Round - Big Crystals: Insert a seed crystal. Instead of putting the solvent directly in the freezer, put it in the fridge and allow it to cool, then into the freezer for a bit, then back to the fridge, then into the freezer again. Repeat as desired for larger and more impressive clusters. Leave the final freeze for 48-72 hours or more.
voidmatrix said:You know you don't have to apologize for that. And Dirty T seems like I real cool person who likes helping.
dreamer042 said:Wash, backsalt, then recrystalize.
Wash: When the alkaloid is in solvent add some slightly basic water, mix thoroughly and allow the layers to separate, discard the water layer. This will remove impurities that are water soluble.
Backsalt: When the alkaloid is in solvent add some slightly acidic water, mix thoroughly and allow the layers to separate, discard the solvent layer, base the water layer and pull the alkaloid back into fresh solvent. This will remove the solvent soluble impurities.
Recrystalize: After collecting the alkaloid, re-dissolve in fresh warm solvent (use a warm water bath away from heat sources), allow the solvent to cool to room temperature, impurities will settle to the bottom of the container, decant the solvent off from the impurities and proceed with freeze precipitation.
Bonus Round - Big Crystals: Insert a seed crystal. Instead of putting the solvent directly in the freezer, put it in the fridge and allow it to cool, then into the freezer for a bit, then back to the fridge, then into the freezer again. Repeat as desired for larger and more impressive clusters. Leave the final freeze for 48-72 hours or more.
Loveall said:So how about looking into a TEK that keeps polymerization in mind and tries to minimize it?
So what would a "Min Poly TEK" look like? Some polymerization always happens, so maybe a TEK with a dedicated de-polymerization step is worth while. How about something like this:
1) Plant Matrix separation: Mix 100g bark, 200g water, and 25g of NaOH. Rest for 24h for plant matrix to be broken down.
2) De-polymerization: Add 500ml of vinegar. After that, dissolve in 40g of citric acid and 40g of ascorbic acid. Shake every once in a while for at least 24h.
3) FB extraction: Add 100ml of naphtha. Add 40g of NaOH to roughly neutralize the solution. Slowly add more NaOH (~10 to 20g) while mixing. Liquid will become cloudy temporarily and emulsions will form. With enough NaOH the emulsion will break. Siphon off naphtha.
4) Freeze precipitate as usual.

Voidmatrix said:I wasn't planning on sharing these because the yield wasn't quite what I was hoping for (1.030), but I can't help myself with Loveall gettin it done over here
I still have both jars from my previous two extractions. Will try to squeeze more out of each in the coming days.
One love
Loveall said:Voidmatrix said:I wasn't planning on sharing these because the yield wasn't quite what I was hoping for (1.030), but I can't help myself with Loveall gettin it done over here
I still have both jars from my previous two extractions. Will try to squeeze more out of each in the coming days.
One love
That's really white. Are you pulling near room temp? If so, if you warm things up I think you may get more. It will be yellow, but with a mini A/B and strong acid for some time it should go from yellow to white.
Thank you!Dirty T said:You're welcome Shamanistic Vibes, glad I could help.
Lately I've been pulling from my 'spent' soup with Xylene then using a mini AB and pull with Naptha for a bonus 0.5%. It's amazing how much comes out. I'm going to do some pulls tonight and take a picture when I'm done (probably be a few days, I'm in no rush).
Just to wrap this up, got another .47g of oil/crystal mix after 3 more pulls (see image) for a total yield of 2.71%.Loveall said:Loveall said:So how about looking into a TEK that keeps polymerization in mind and tries to minimize it?
So what would a "Min Poly TEK" look like? Some polymerization always happens, so maybe a TEK with a dedicated de-polymerization step is worth while. How about something like this:
1) Plant Matrix separation: Mix 100g bark, 200g water, and 25g of NaOH. Rest for 24h for plant matrix to be broken down.
2) De-polymerization: Add 500ml of vinegar. After that, dissolve in 40g of citric acid and 40g of ascorbic acid. Shake every once in a while for at least 24h.
3) FB extraction: Add 100ml of naphtha. Add 40g of NaOH to roughly neutralize the solution. Slowly add more NaOH (~10 to 20g) while mixing. Liquid will become cloudy temporarily and emulsions will form. With enough NaOH the emulsion will break. Siphon off naphtha.
4) Freeze precipitate as usual.
First 3 pulls with this process are done. 2.24% yield of yellow but fluffy DMT. Hoping for a little more from the next 3 pulls
About what I get with max ion, but not as white. I think that by moving alkaline lysing before "de-polymerization" there is a chance we could improve on the already excellent max ion tek. More tests to come. Perhaps de-polymerization was not complete after all the alkaline treatment. Perhaps HCl is better at de-polymerization and will produce even whiter DMT. I'll do future tests in the minimum polymerization work tread. Cheers.
Never heard of heating backsalt this way. Will try this next time for the little effort that it is.Dirty T said:...why not just use Xylene and the answer is simple, after backsalting the acid must be heated to remove residual Xylene BEFORE basifying and pulling with fresh Naptha or you will just get yellow polymers that won't freeze precipate ...