Emptiness said:
jessman3 said:
wow thanks for the input emptiness! it definitely looks super similar to me from those pictures and everything else i have seen.
i guess i can be comfortable then to say that it is at least some type of Acacia?
The only thing that slightly confuses me still are the seeds, as they look different to the diagrams (should be a seed pod with small seeds, this plant just has round nuts a couple cm wide on random branches), but perhaps what im looking at isnt even a seed and it is not even the time of year for seeds, who knows.
If it is as common as it sounds, then i can only just assume this is it then as there are absolutely loads of these around my area (kalgoorlie) and it just looks so similar.
If i dont come to a conclusion soon i may just give it a try anyway and see.
I have read up and Lex's dmt extraction guide looks like the simplest for me to follow. I have read though that some of the ph levels should be adjusted so i still have some research to do yet
Yeah no probs, i am not sure about what those nuts are but as I say there isn't any other species in that area that shares those phenotypes. Something that maybe worth mentioning is that I have seen other species combined in to an acacia tree. As in i have seen an accuminata that has had another species somehow grown in to it. About one fifth of its leaves were the leaves of another type of tree (one with pine needle like phyllodes), i was careful to check for multiple but trunks but alas only one trunk. This has been sighted over handful of times.
You could do a mini-a/b extraction on it to see double check before going for it (but i would a lot of money on it that it does, just not sure if it is narrow or burkkii :?: ). Lextek will work beautifully for what you intend, and don't be afraid to work outside the parameters of the tek as long as you understand what is going on chemically. I don't even bother to check the PH anymore because I know that DMT doesn't need much acetic acid to bind to dmt-acetate. As long as you observe what the general ratio of white-vinegar to water is. From there on you can just tell by rough ratio of the pot size to the vinegar jug size. As for basification, you know the PH is correct once the sludge turns black, there are stages as you add the lye slowly. The first is when you see the white crystal bound out, then it goes sort of purple or brown, then it goes completely black and you know that is when you are good to go. From there on I just keep adding bits of lye to keep the temp of the soup at around 30c. Make sure you don't get your basified jars over 50c from adding the lye. I find mason jars far easier to use than plastic bottle as suggested in that tek, be careful of when you first add naphtha as the first couple of shakes REALLY generate some pressure that you need to vent, so shakes for a second, vent, shake for 2 seconds, vent, shake for 3 seconds vent. Or just get to mason jars and keep pouring one in to the other, works great. Make sure you filter, and reduce so you save money on naphtha.
how interesting!
and i think thats a good idea actually. perhaps over the next few days i will gather what i need for an initial mini attempt. from what i have read it sounds like i can just use the phyllodes/stems, rather than the bark, which apparently is harmful to it.
in the gui9de it says roughly 3 parts water to 1 part vinegar so you are right that i could just ratio it all out, i will probly still find some ph strips though just to be on the safe side anyway.
also being in australia i dont have access to naptha, only shellite, which i have read isnt fantastic but does the job so so hopefully will be all good.
i will heed your warning thanks.
also when you say filter and reduce, you mean like filter through a coffee filter, keeping the remaining shellite for next time and evaporating off the coffee filter?
Oh and also, the nut ball like things in my photo, apparently may be "galls", basically an abnormal plant growth caused by insects and bacteria and stuff like that