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Just asking for opinions
- Thread starter Dan781
- Start date
Ok... SWIM tried this recipe but the step before putting it to the freezer failed!
The naptha does not separate and I dont know why. I used the exact quantities from the video above. I tried adding a bit more water, sodium and a bit more Calcium Hydroxide (I used Kalkwasser powder) supposed to be fine from what i read.
Anyway any help would be appreciated.
Ps: english is not my first language.
The naptha does not separate and I dont know why. I used the exact quantities from the video above. I tried adding a bit more water, sodium and a bit more Calcium Hydroxide (I used Kalkwasser powder) supposed to be fine from what i read.
Anyway any help would be appreciated.
Ps: english is not my first language.
- Merits
- 42
There is always that problem around with both layers not separating.
I did not watch that video but I guess it is about Naphtha not separating from water?
The first stuff that is told in that situations:
- add more NaOH or Ca(OH)2
- let it settle over night
- add more Naphtha
Also if you did not filter your solution, then maybe that is the reason why the layers are not separating.
Having too much particles of the bark left in the soup will make it harder for the layers to separate.
Other people told that you may have to shake it by vibration. You could make it sit on your washing machine when it is in its last cycle. But keep attention that it does not fall from the top!
Also putting a Dildo against the walls would be somehow adding vibration to the system :roll:
Maybe if heating it up it could also separate the layers.
Last but not least: When you want a cheap source of Naphtha, go to the DIY Market and buy *Wasch-Benzin / Reinigungs-Benzin*.
1 L = 6 € and this is good Naphtha. But it should have a vaporization temperature of not higher than 60 - 80 °C.
I did not watch that video but I guess it is about Naphtha not separating from water?
The first stuff that is told in that situations:
- add more NaOH or Ca(OH)2
- let it settle over night
- add more Naphtha
Also if you did not filter your solution, then maybe that is the reason why the layers are not separating.
Having too much particles of the bark left in the soup will make it harder for the layers to separate.
Other people told that you may have to shake it by vibration. You could make it sit on your washing machine when it is in its last cycle. But keep attention that it does not fall from the top!
Also putting a Dildo against the walls would be somehow adding vibration to the system :roll:
Maybe if heating it up it could also separate the layers.
Last but not least: When you want a cheap source of Naphtha, go to the DIY Market and buy *Wasch-Benzin / Reinigungs-Benzin*.
1 L = 6 € and this is good Naphtha. But it should have a vaporization temperature of not higher than 60 - 80 °C.
Thanks alot for all your advices Brennendes Wasser, turns out after adding naphtha the problem kinda resolved itself.
How much per pull SWIM is supposed to get after getting everything off the freezer?
Also how long would you suggest stirring the naphtha for??
SWIM did not get many crystals that is why he is wondering what mistake he did (first time doing it)
Also for anyone willing to help, here is the mix SWIM did:
50G Mimosa Hostillis RootBark powder
40G Calcium Hydroxide
50ml Naphtha
50ml Vinegar 5% Acetic Acid
How much per pull SWIM is supposed to get after getting everything off the freezer?
Also how long would you suggest stirring the naphtha for??
SWIM did not get many crystals that is why he is wondering what mistake he did (first time doing it)
Also for anyone willing to help, here is the mix SWIM did:
50G Mimosa Hostillis RootBark powder
40G Calcium Hydroxide
50ml Naphtha
50ml Vinegar 5% Acetic Acid
Ok..this pull seems to have WAY more crystals, like way more compare to the first one. SWIM will try to keep it inside the freezer longer maybe. Do you think that a little amount could have evaporate in the first pull?
I stir until tired (6-10min) and by then the mud pie is all wet with naphta which is the whole point.
Your yield after 4 or 5 pulls (you will know when is the last pull because crystals stop coming out) will be half a gram of dmt. If you use 100g mimosa it will be 1 gram dmt as 1% of mimosa's content is dmt.
A pull's yield can be anywhere from 50mg to 300mg. This depends on everything (the chemistry of the mud pie, the warmth of the naphta when the pull was done, the coldness of the freezer, the quality of bark, how well it was stirred...)
The end of the process consist of getting the plate out of the freezer and putting it infront of a fan until fully dry (1 to 2 hours.) Then you scrape the crystals off and store them.
Your yield after 4 or 5 pulls (you will know when is the last pull because crystals stop coming out) will be half a gram of dmt. If you use 100g mimosa it will be 1 gram dmt as 1% of mimosa's content is dmt.
A pull's yield can be anywhere from 50mg to 300mg. This depends on everything (the chemistry of the mud pie, the warmth of the naphta when the pull was done, the coldness of the freezer, the quality of bark, how well it was stirred...)
The end of the process consist of getting the plate out of the freezer and putting it infront of a fan until fully dry (1 to 2 hours.) Then you scrape the crystals off and store them.
- Merits
- 42
I haven't checked the tek (I don't reddit) but, the approach of extraction seems to be in line with dryteks.
I like dryteks when I like dryteks... and then I like wet teks when I like wet teks. Different purpose and application.
For DMT- I've grown to favor the wet approach. It is simply easier for my setup and method of extraction. For wet teks, a strong base is preferred. Dryteks often incorporate calcium hydroxide. Unlike sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide does not completely dissociate in water, and has relatively poor solubility. That's fine, but it limits the cap of the pH, and the surface area exposure is minimized due to the consistency of the paste.
I usually reserve the dry teks for mescaline extraction.
Take care!
ACY
I like dryteks when I like dryteks... and then I like wet teks when I like wet teks. Different purpose and application.
For DMT- I've grown to favor the wet approach. It is simply easier for my setup and method of extraction. For wet teks, a strong base is preferred. Dryteks often incorporate calcium hydroxide. Unlike sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide does not completely dissociate in water, and has relatively poor solubility. That's fine, but it limits the cap of the pH, and the surface area exposure is minimized due to the consistency of the paste.
I usually reserve the dry teks for mescaline extraction.
Take care!
ACY
