Questions:
1) Here (Understanding Polar migration... - Advanced/Enhanced chemistry - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus), aliendreamtime says that they lyse their cell walls mechanically by soaking their bark in water for an entire day and then freezing and thawing twice before… what? How does one proceed from here? If acids and bases are used here to chemically break the cell walls, but we’re replacing that with a mechanical process, then how does one go about getting the goods? My guess is that, because acids turn the goods into a salt, that we just add some acid to the mulch at that point? I’m not exactly sure how that would result in the goods though. Any ideas?
Someone also said that they freeze-thaw with acidified water, but they never gave a follow up.
Actually, here (A/B vs STB (ATB) - Breaking Down Bark Unnecessary? - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus) blue.magic says that they freeze-thaw and then uses their steps that results in adding only a base. So, adding a base to the lysed MHRB makes it a freebase to be absorbed by the NPS, but how much base needs to be added in this situation? 1mg NaOH per 1g MHRB?
Because benzyme said ( - - STB - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus) that any minerals in water will remain in the water, then I assume that I will have no issue in using tap water for the freeze-thaws for the bark.
Also, I currently have about 100g of powdered bark, and a lot of shredded. I’m not sure if it’s worth powdering the shredded bark for this type of lysing, or even for ones with a pressure cooker, which I’ll ask about in full below.
Edit (one week later): So if my guess is correct, I shall soak some MRHB with some water until it has absorbed just enough, then I will freeze-thaw it a few times, after which I can add more water and vinegar so that it is of the right pH and proceed with an extraction.
2) Regarding what I’ve found about pressure cookers, it seems that the most “common” process is to place the acidic mixture in the pressure cooker and run it 3 times at 40 minutes each, making sure to use a stainless steel container because aluminum chemically reacts with acetic acid (and presumably others). A couple of things that I have not yet been able to find for which I would like more information:
2.1) Would I have to add more acidic water to the pressure cook each time?
2.2) Would I be able to do a STB with the pressure cooker rather than AB or whatever?
2.3) Salting has become the new fad due to ChemisTyptaMan’s idea. Is salting in a pressure cooker going to be extra effective? I guess, per another thing that I read, that I ought not to salt during the acidic part and want until just before or during the basic part. Sorry, I guess this was more of just a thought than an actual question.
2.4) The previous questions are relevant only if using the pressure cooker is more efficient than the mechanical lysing asked about in question 1. Can any attest to the efficacy of using a pressure cooker when comparing to freeze-thawing? If so, which end of the spectrum was used?
Note: I guess I should avoid using bases with the pressure cooker because, first and foremost, I don’t want to inhale that NaOH shit. Secondly, steel types 304 and 316 are good with NaOH up to 80C, but using a pressure cooker will certainly bring it beyond that temperature. (Source: https://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=34)
2.5) Here, Using a pressure cooker (PC) - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus, Shaolin wrote about using a pressure cooker, and stated that we ought to place jars in the apparatus with a 1:5 mimosa:vinegar mixture. Is that pure, 5% vinegar, or is that vinegar diluted still? I thought we ought not use a pH of less than 4 (per this legendary post, DMT Extraction Overview - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus).
3) Salting the solution will cause the vast majority of the spice to be present in the first two pulls. According to Cyb’s Max Ion tek, salting too much (increasing the ionic strength of the solution) will result in pulling more than just the pure goods. How much salt is necessary then for just a saturated pull of the goods, assuming that his recommended amount (80g in the 300mL then add 700mL water for 1L) is for everything?
Notes:
1) 30mg warm Naphtha at 50C picks up 1g of impure DMT.
2) Lime teks produce a cleaner product than STB or AB teks.
2.1) Crystals form out when evaporating from a bowl rather than from a sheet.
3) Teks that I’ve considered so far:
3.1) Cyb’s Hybrid ATB Salt Tek: Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
3.2) Cyb’s Max Ion Tek: Cybs 'MAX ION' tek - STB - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
3.3) EarthWalker’s ACRb Tek: ACRB TEK 100g "PICS" (Newbie Friendly) - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
1) Here (Understanding Polar migration... - Advanced/Enhanced chemistry - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus), aliendreamtime says that they lyse their cell walls mechanically by soaking their bark in water for an entire day and then freezing and thawing twice before… what? How does one proceed from here? If acids and bases are used here to chemically break the cell walls, but we’re replacing that with a mechanical process, then how does one go about getting the goods? My guess is that, because acids turn the goods into a salt, that we just add some acid to the mulch at that point? I’m not exactly sure how that would result in the goods though. Any ideas?
Someone also said that they freeze-thaw with acidified water, but they never gave a follow up.
Actually, here (A/B vs STB (ATB) - Breaking Down Bark Unnecessary? - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus) blue.magic says that they freeze-thaw and then uses their steps that results in adding only a base. So, adding a base to the lysed MHRB makes it a freebase to be absorbed by the NPS, but how much base needs to be added in this situation? 1mg NaOH per 1g MHRB?
Because benzyme said ( - - STB - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus) that any minerals in water will remain in the water, then I assume that I will have no issue in using tap water for the freeze-thaws for the bark.
Also, I currently have about 100g of powdered bark, and a lot of shredded. I’m not sure if it’s worth powdering the shredded bark for this type of lysing, or even for ones with a pressure cooker, which I’ll ask about in full below.
Edit (one week later): So if my guess is correct, I shall soak some MRHB with some water until it has absorbed just enough, then I will freeze-thaw it a few times, after which I can add more water and vinegar so that it is of the right pH and proceed with an extraction.
2) Regarding what I’ve found about pressure cookers, it seems that the most “common” process is to place the acidic mixture in the pressure cooker and run it 3 times at 40 minutes each, making sure to use a stainless steel container because aluminum chemically reacts with acetic acid (and presumably others). A couple of things that I have not yet been able to find for which I would like more information:
2.1) Would I have to add more acidic water to the pressure cook each time?
2.2) Would I be able to do a STB with the pressure cooker rather than AB or whatever?
2.3) Salting has become the new fad due to ChemisTyptaMan’s idea. Is salting in a pressure cooker going to be extra effective? I guess, per another thing that I read, that I ought not to salt during the acidic part and want until just before or during the basic part. Sorry, I guess this was more of just a thought than an actual question.
2.4) The previous questions are relevant only if using the pressure cooker is more efficient than the mechanical lysing asked about in question 1. Can any attest to the efficacy of using a pressure cooker when comparing to freeze-thawing? If so, which end of the spectrum was used?
Note: I guess I should avoid using bases with the pressure cooker because, first and foremost, I don’t want to inhale that NaOH shit. Secondly, steel types 304 and 316 are good with NaOH up to 80C, but using a pressure cooker will certainly bring it beyond that temperature. (Source: https://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=34)
2.5) Here, Using a pressure cooker (PC) - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus, Shaolin wrote about using a pressure cooker, and stated that we ought to place jars in the apparatus with a 1:5 mimosa:vinegar mixture. Is that pure, 5% vinegar, or is that vinegar diluted still? I thought we ought not use a pH of less than 4 (per this legendary post, DMT Extraction Overview - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus).
3) Salting the solution will cause the vast majority of the spice to be present in the first two pulls. According to Cyb’s Max Ion tek, salting too much (increasing the ionic strength of the solution) will result in pulling more than just the pure goods. How much salt is necessary then for just a saturated pull of the goods, assuming that his recommended amount (80g in the 300mL then add 700mL water for 1L) is for everything?
Notes:
1) 30mg warm Naphtha at 50C picks up 1g of impure DMT.
2) Lime teks produce a cleaner product than STB or AB teks.
2.1) Crystals form out when evaporating from a bowl rather than from a sheet.
3) Teks that I’ve considered so far:
3.1) Cyb’s Hybrid ATB Salt Tek: Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
3.2) Cyb’s Max Ion Tek: Cybs 'MAX ION' tek - STB - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
3.3) EarthWalker’s ACRb Tek: ACRB TEK 100g "PICS" (Newbie Friendly) - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
