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Massive Amount of Extraction Info & "QuickTek"

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Rising Star
from :http://pkeffect.com/wiki/howto:dmt-extraction-vortex [b:396f37a40a]DMT Quicktek[/b:396f37a40a] Quote: PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES - DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION. This tech has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else and those are: To defat the powdered root bark by pouring strait naphtha directly into the powder without water and second, to mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark as is found in other techs. No reason to do so, this works great without going to the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields. Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified soup to much over 140 degrees F. the DMT alkaloid which has become a freebase can start to turn into a vapor causing it to be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified soup be sure that you do not let the soup get any warmer than 100-120 degrees F. to allow a fairly large margin. My advice is that one hundred degrees F. is plenty warm enough to help speed the process up if you want to do so but is not at all necessary. [b:396f37a40a]DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction[/b:396f37a40a] by [i:396f37a40a]Vortex[/i:396f37a40a] The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method which is very simple, the rest is just extra information for those who might be new to extractions. This extraction method can extract the majority of the alkaliod from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours from beginning to end if you have quantity of powdered root bark ready for extraction and speed the evaporation of the extraction solvent through the aid of a fan with the solvent in a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions of over 250 grams may take longer due to the time it takes to evaporate a larger volume of solvent. Dimethyltryptamine AKA N,N-DMT or DMT which is contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into an amount of basified water at a pH of 13.5 which is made by dissolving a base chemical such as NaOH/sodium hydroxide into water. Basified water which will have a high enough pH to convert the DMT in the root bark powder to a freebase for absorption by naphtha can be prepared by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml of water intended, preparing enough water so that you have close to a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder (when wet) to 3/4 basified water. When the base adjusted water is mixed together with the root bark this will raise the pH to close to 13.5 which is the ideal extraction pH. The sequence the above is done in is important, be sure to make the basified water ahead of time, if the NaOH causes the water to significantly heat due to the chemical reaction let it cool to under 120 degrees F. and then mix the powdered root bark into the water for five minutes before adding naphtha. Although this extraction can be done with basified water at room temperature, if the water is still warm from the reaction of having NaOH added this will only help but do not add the root bark powder if over 120 degrees F. Use 100 or more ml (as much as you want) of room temperature naphtha per 250 grams of dry weight root bark being extracted and mix the solvent into the aqueous soup by hand using a non-reactive utensil such as stainless steel for 30 minutes at a time at room temperature to absorb the DMT alkaloid, extracting the watery mix with naphtha the same way at least three or more times over with fresh solvent each time to absorb and pull out the majority of the alkaloid in under two hours. Separate and save the naphtha from the basified mix each time. When finished extracting the root bark evaporate the DMT containing fractions of clear to slightly yellow solvent together to net fairly pure DMT in just a few hours of work. When done with this quick extraction method and prior to evaporating the solvent you have already collected, pour more clean solvent into the soup, mix for a few minutes, tightly cover to prevent evaporation of the solvent and then set aside in a dark place for a long term soaking of a few days to get the last of the alkaloid out of the root bark. If possible, mash and stir the root bark which will have settled to the bottom of the container at least once a day, twice or more a day is better. A stainless steel potato masher works great for this, do not let the basified solution get on your skin. Extraction Notes [b:396f37a40a]Preparing Root Bark for Extraction[/b:396f37a40a] The root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if you are willing to wait for the lye/NaOH to soften and break the root bark down into a mush which will extract just as efficiently as powdered root bark but will take a few days to completely soften enough to do so. Although this is true to reduce the amount of time required to extract this plant material it is best to powder the root bark as finely as you can through simple means. This can be done through multiple steps to break the bark down until you have a powder near the consistency of flour. First, strip and cut the bark into fine pieces with pliers or cutting dikes, tin snip shears etc., then place all of the bark in a large enough steel can so that when filled with all of the root bark it is no more than about 1/10 full (coffee cans work great, holding it between your feet) and use a five foot long inch and half or larger OD thick walled schedule 40 or heavier steel pipe to smash the pieces into a powder as you stand above the can and pound the bark into smaller and smaller pieces which will eventually become a powder mixed with harder pieces if you work it long enough. This can only be done if the can is sitting on a flat cement slab, do not try this with the can sitting on a wooden floor, not hard enough. Once you have thoroughly pulverized the root bark as best you can with a pipe you can then further powder the material or break down the pieces which remain through the use of a small high RPM coffee grinder, the top loading kind which have a stainless steel blade in the top which turns at an extremely high speed. These can be purchased from many large stores which sell kitchen items for less than twenty dollars but are not designed for a heavy work load. Because of this you should wait at least a minute between each grind or you might burn the internal thermal fuse out which is not designed to be replaced, but can be done so by removing it which of course defeats this safety feature to prevent fire if an overload occurs. [b:396f37a40a]Defatting without A-B[/b:396f37a40a] Although the extract from Mimosa hostilis root bark is usually pure enough using the above process as is, if desiring a higher purity the small amounts of fat which are in this plants root bark can be removed by a very simple step without the need to acidify and mix with water as is commonly done using what is called an Acid-Base Extraction. This can be done by adding a solvent such as naphtha directly to the dried root bark powder and stirring for just a few minutes and then once the solvent has absorbed the fats, which takes less than ten minutes, pouring the mix through a paper or cloth filter to collect the fine particles of powdered root bark suspended in the solvent and save the wet powder, discarding the solvent. The wet or dried powder can then be added to a mix of water and NaOH to raise the pH of the water to above 13 where the DMT salts contained in the powder are converted to an alkaloid or base which can then be readily extracted using a solvent such as naphtha to absorb it. This method will work to defat the root bark using the same solvent which extracts the alkaloid because the DMT contained in the dried root bark is in the form of a salt which cannot be absorbed by the solvent until a base is added with water to the powder which releases it for absorption by solvent. Because of this when doing a strait solvent defat you are in effect using the acid to base or A-B defatting process but without having to add an acid to convert the DMT into a salt because DMT contained in dried root bark already exists in the form of a salt so why use a mix of water an acid to defat the material when mixing the powder into strait solvent does the job so well? Although Mimosa hostilis root bark is already fairly fat free as is and nearly free of fats after performing a simple strait defat of the powder with room temperature solvent, for an extreme defat boil the root bark powder in hot naphtha or any solvent which will absorb plant fats such as xylene etc. and cycle several times, pouring off the old and adding fresh solvent. Some kind of paper or cloth filter should be used to strain the fine particles of root bark powder floating in the solvent each time you do so or you will loose that portion of the root bark to the solvent wash. These particles can be so fine that they can take many hours to settle to the bottom of the container. [b:396f37a40a]Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment[/b:396f37a40a] When extracting root bark do not use plastic containers or utensils which might react with either the solvent or the base chemical. Stainless steel, glass or ceramic containers and stirring utensils are safe with these chemicals. Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves and observe all standard safe practices when working with chemicals and solvents. [b:396f37a40a]Warning, NaOH Sodium Hydroxide is [i:396f37a40a]Dangerous[/i:396f37a40a][/b:396f37a40a] When working with NaOH/sodium hydroxide this is an extremely dangerous solution you are making. It can cause serious burns and eye damage; wear gloves and goggles, OK? Also, you will find that this compound generates a LOT of heat when it gets wet - so much so that your solution can boil over, spraying NaOH everywhere. Because of this only add and stir small amounts of NaOH base into the water a little at a time to minimize the amount of exothermic heat and bubbling. NEVER add water to a base/NaOH! Again, the powdered base should only be added incrementally and slowly dissolved into a relatively large amount of water, not the other way around. [b:396f37a40a]pH - The Basics[/b:396f37a40a] If a substance has one acid component for each base component, it is said to be neutral and has a pH value of 7. Greater than 7 is less acid, more base, and less than 7 is more acid and less base. Each unit is 10 times the previous, i.e., a pH of 9 is 10 times more base than 8, a pH of 5 is 10 times more acid than 6. Some examples of more acid like things are vinegar, orange juice, and the liquid in your car battery that makes holes in your clothes. Bases include lye, Tums, and brushing your teeth with baking soda. When acid like substances are mixed with base like substances, they react with each other producing some by-products and leaving the resulting solution with a pH somewhere between the two original values. The further apart the pH of the two substances, the more energy is released in the reaction. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in a half glass of vinegar and see what happens. [b:396f37a40a]pH Substance Base and Acid Examples:[/b:396f37a40a] * 13.0-14.0 Sodium Hydroxide - (NaOH, lye) * 13.0-14.0 Potassium Hydroxide (KOH, lye; Caustic potash) * 12.4 Lime - (Calcium Hydroxide) * 11.0 Ammonia * 10.5 Milk of Magnesia * 8.3 Baking Soda * 7.4 Human Blood * 7.0 Pure Water - Neutral * 6.6 Milk * 4.5 Tomatoes * 4.0 Wine & Beer * 3.0 Apples * 2.2 Vinegar - (undiluted) * 2.0 Lemon Juice * 1.0 Battery Acid * 0 Hydrochloric Acid Go to Not Found for a list of common bases and pH [i:396f37a40a]pH Meter or Papers Are Not Required[/i:396f37a40a] If you do not have access to a pH meter or papers to confirm how base the solution is the root bark can be basified to a pH of approximately ~13 by dissolving 1 tablespoon of NaOH per 150 ml of water used to basify the root bark regardless of the quantity of water used but should be added to and thoroughly dissolved into the water prior to mixing into the root bark powder. If a bubbly emulsion forms when stirring the mix together with naphtha add more water with the NaOH base dissolved into it and stir again. Until the pH is close to 13 or more emulsions will form very easily when mixing the naphtha into the MHRB soup, after the pH is raised to close to the ideal pH of approx. 13.5 you cannot easily produce an emulsion by swift stirring but some amount will form and if too much allow the solution to sit for a few hours before the solvent is separated out from the watery mix for eventual evaporation. The emulsion should break up or subside on its own after setting still long enough bit if it will not settle out add more NaOH. The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH−] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10−14 mol/l, and pH = −log 10−14 = 14. Depending upon the pH of the water the NaOH is being dissolved into the pH can be either lower or higher than the above. As a very gross estimate, half the amount of NaOH, or 20 grams, will produce a pH close to 13.5 in water. When this pH adjusted or basified water is added to root bark the NaOH will react with the powder and lower the pH a bit. As a rough estimate, depending upon whether you are using granulized NaOH or crystals, pellets etc. three measured tablespoons should weigh close to 40 grams and should be base enough to basify 1 litre of water to close to a pH of 14 which will be lowered closer to 13 when mixing root bark powder into it. Since the ideal extraction pH of Mimosa hostilis root bark is closer to 13.5 this tech calls to have a higher ratio of NaOH to water which is approx. 1 tablespoon or 13-15 grams (depending upon whether a powder, crystals or pellets) of NaOH per 150 ml of water which should raise the pH closer to 13.5 when mixed at a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder to 3/4 basified water. While I have recommended the above ratio of water to root bark powder at 1/4 powder to 3/4 water other teks specify 10 ml of water per gram of powdered rootbark which is about 1.3 US gallons per 500 grams of root bark which is different than the amount I have recommended in this tech. Mix your root bark and basified water to the consistency you want, I do not believe anything in this process requires a high degree of exactness whether that be the amount of root bark powder to water, NaOH to water, amount of naphtha stirred in each time and so on. The fact is small to somewhat moderate departures from what I have outlined in this tech will not make a large amout of difference, especially at the high pH required to extract the root bark. For example; if you use plus or minus 20% NaOH the pH of the extraction will not be affected much, 20 percent more or less water either but if both the both the amount of water and NaOH are radically different such as far more water and far less NaOH, or far less water and far more NaOH, far less powder and far more base adjusted water etc., those departures from the outlined amounts would likely effect the required time and number of extractions performed to extract the majority of the alkaloid out of the mix but as long as the pH is still close to 13 or more the extraction will still probably provide a reasonable amount of yield. All of this becomes moot if you also perform a long term extraction (with extra stirring every day) after the short quick multiple extractions are first completed which will make up for the differences. The only thing I believe which can probably be done wrong to significantly alter the amount of yield or cause the extraction to possibly fail is if you use far more powder and far less basified water than outlined causing the powder to become only a paste, regardless of having a high pH. Now that could cause a problem with your extraction, but to tell you the truth I have not tried to know and for all I know that might produce even better results and at far less work, give it a try if you feel so inclined. This tech is based on other peoples tried and true work, not my own knowledge about chemistry which is very little. Sure, I have put a couple of new ideas into practice with this tech which I do not think have been put into a public tech before but they have probably been used by someone somewhere sometime in the past with MHRB. Who knows for sure what works best until you try, some of the best things people have come up with were from the untrained and uneducated who did not know better than to try them, ignored by the current experts who thought they would not work. Experiment, find your own best ways of doing things, this tech is just one way of many which will work. Regardless of the figures in the above paragraph to determine the amount of NaOH needed to bring the aqueous mix of root bark and water up to a pH of ~13.5 (which was based upon an earlier tech by Soma) this amount of NaOH might be more than is really required. An individual in the entheogen community has been working to with MHRB to determine the real world minimum amount of sodium hydroxide needed to efficiently extract powdered MHRB, believing that an efficient extraction can be achieved with as little as one fifth to one tenth the amount of NaOH to produce a pH close to ~13 which should be high enough for the extraction. If his tests prove this out then this tech will be later modified to specify a smaller amount of NaOH for extractions without the need to measure pH. While the higher pH of 13.5 (~five times more NaOH than at 13.0) will work just fine as far as extracting the alkaloid and reduce the amount of potential emulsion formed by stirring, reducing the amount of base dissolved into the water will make the extraction a little safer to work with but still requiring googles and rubber gloves. [b:396f37a40a]The Most Common Causes of Extraction Failures[/b:396f37a40a] Too low of a pH is the most common reason for an extraction failure due to leaving most, if not all of the alkaloid behind if you do not achieve a high enough pH. Although an amount of the total alkaloid contained in the root bark can be extracted from a basified solution at a pH of 9 to 10 at that low of a pH relatively little of the DMT will be released as a freebase causing the extraction yield to be much smaller than normal including the added trouble caused by large amounts of emulsions which will form in the extraction solvent at that low of a pH causing great difficulity in separating the solvent from the aqueous portion of the mix. Although I cannot disagree it is certainly best to have a pH meter available or pH papers which will give a clear indication of the upper end of the pH scale but most papers cannot show whether the pH is really at the ideal extraction pH. Because of this problem someone came up with a great method which does not require reading the pH and that is to add a measured about of NoAH to a specific amount of MHRB, as determined by experience. The recommended minimum amount of NaOH as specified in Somas tek is 1 teaspoon per 50 ml of water or roughly 3 tablespoons per 300 ml of water no matter how much root bark is being extracted by only using as much water as is necessary to keep the aqueous mix a watery slurry. You do NOTt want a thick mix anywhere from the consistency of hot caramel to pancake batter which are far too thick to work out very well. It is best to have the mix a little on the thin side like chicken soup than using so little water that it produces a thick mix, once all of the root bark is stirred up into the basified water. A great last measure which can be performed to be sure you have raised the pH high enough: After you have extracted everything you think you can out of your root bark double the amount of NaOH/lye mixed into the root bark and try extracting it again to see if more alkaloid comes out of the mix. This might seem like over kill and way too much lye but I have found that you can use as much as lye as two thirds the weight of the root bark being extracted. If extracting 500 grams of root bark 300 grams of lye/NaOH is not too much when dissolved into 3 liters of water and has worked out very well for me when I have increased the NaOH that much for the final couple of extractions netting an unexpected bonus of alkaloid. Due to the recent difficulty of finding pure NaOH crystals on the store shelf in the form of a drain opener some individuals have reported other bases such as KOH or potassium hydroxide can be used in place of NaOH which may be true, I do not see why not but I do not know of anyone who has reported to have successfully used that kind of base. Red Devil Lye used to be the most common source for easy to find off the shelf NaOH in the past but due to its wide spread use to manufacture illicit drugs has been voluntarily removed from the market by the manufacturer. Although if hard pressed, NaOH can be made from simple table salt through electrolysis with plus and minus electrodes with water unless absolutely necessary to go to that kind of trouble it is obviously far easier to just purchase sodium hydroxide online through one of the auction web sites which is being sold for candle making, baking (food grade) and biodiesel projects than to make your own. [b:396f37a40a]Caution:[/b:396f37a40a][i:396f37a40a] When adding NaOH to water to make a basified solution the chemical reaction will produce near boiling hot water which can boil over or spirt out of the container. As a safety margine do not combine extremely hot basified water to the root bark powder or vice versa if the temperature is over 120 degrees F. which if only 20 degrees hotter can possibly cause vaporization of the freebase alkaloid released into the solution to evaporate out of the mix and into the air reducing the total potential yield.[/i:396f37a40a] [b:396f37a40a]Choice of Solvent[/b:396f37a40a] Many solvents can be used to extract DMT from plant materials, dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride, DCM) is good one but difficult to acquire at high purity without other solvents mixed into it without special ordering from a chemical supply house. If you do use DCM this solvent is heavier than water and instead of floating on top of the aqueous mix will go to the bottom and may cause a problem due to the basified water being pushed out of the root bark and difficult to separate from this solvent later. Naphtha seems to be the most common solvent for extracting DMT from plant materials in use right now which can be obtained from several sources. What kind of naphtha is the best? I do not have an answer for this one but I can tell you what some individuals are using. VM&P naphtha is one source people have been using which is usually fairly clean, others use Ronsonol lighter fluid which is also naphtha. There is another solvent which can be used instead of naphtha and that is hexane which has been reported to be superior to naphtha for extracting DMT, although most naphtha contains an amount of hexanes too. Hexane can be purchased from art supply stores under the brand name of Bestine which is used as a rubber cement thinner. No matter what solvent you use you should check it for residuals by evaporating a portion of it in a clean bowl to see if any kind of oily contaminate remains. The more solvent you use to absorb the alkaloid out of the basified root bark the easier it will be to separate from the aqueous mix each time, leaving some behind which will have its contents diluted into fresh solvent on the second, third or last long term extraction if you choose to do so. While 100 ml per extraction of 250 grams of root bark powder when done three times or more over may be far more than is required for the amount of alkaloid extracted, on a solubility basis, more solvent makes separation much easier each time if any amount of emulsion is present. Although in my opinion using more solvent is better in that respect, more will obviously increase the total amount of evaporation time required to net the alkaloid. [b:396f37a40a]Mixing Naphtha and Trouble with Emulsions[/b:396f37a40a] Naphtha has a lower specific gravity than water and will float on top of the aqueous mix of root bark powder, once stirring has stopped. Just stir the naphtha into the mix from a slow to moderate rate to reduce the amount of bubbly emulsion which might form. The problem with having an emulsion is that when it comes time to separate out the solvent from the solution of basified water the more bubbles which form in the solvent the less solvent you can separate out from the aqueous portion of the mix causing some of the alkaloid contained in the emulsion which is a mix of both solvent and water to be left behind. If the pH of the base adjusted water and root bark powder is not high enough mixing too fast will cause an emulsion to form which will not break down on its own even if waiting days for it to subside. At the proper pH of ~13.5 emulsions are not easily formed even through fast stirring which will last more than a few minutes after the stirring has stopped. However, a fairly slow to moderate speed stir of the naphtha into the aqueous mix is all you need to do, just fast enough to make sure the root bark powder is not allowed to settle to the bottom of the mixing container while stirring the naphtha into the solution. [b:396f37a40a]Separating the Solvent From The Aqueous Mix[/b:396f37a40a] The best tool for this is a separatory funnel which is simply a glass container with a valve on the bottom which will allow the heavier aqueous solution to be poured off of the naphtha floating on top simply by opening the valve. Some individuals use plastic baggies for this purpose by cutting one of the bottom corners out of the bag so that the heavier watery half can be drained off and pinching the bag off with their fingers just as the last of it goes out with the lighter naphtha remaining in the bag which is then drained into another container for evaporation. I do not like the idea of mixing chemicals and solvents in sandwich bags due to possible contamination and refuse to use that method unless I could find some kind of bag I know for sure will not be leached by chemicals or solvents. This particular extraction process makes using either a separatory funnel or a baggie more difficult for separating the solvent from the mix because the heavy and muddy root bark powder is left in the extraction container which would clog up either of these. If you do use a separatory funnel or homemade device to drain the aqueous solution off of the naphtha from the bottom I would wait for the root bark powder to completely settle to the bottom of the mixing container and then pour the basified water and naphtha off the top into another container but chances are unless you wait many hours you will still get enough of the root bark powder to clog a separatory funnel. Instead of using a separatory funnel I have found it easier to just use more solvent than I need for each of the multiple extractions done to a single batch of root bark and carefully pouring the solvent in the mixing container off the top and into a large measuring cup allowing some of the watery mix to go out with it. Then I can carefully pour the naphtha in the measuring cup off of the dark aqueous solution in the bottom and add it back once the naphtha has been separated from it. [b:396f37a40a]Evaporating Solvent[/b:396f37a40a] Evaporating naphtha can take a very long time if placed in a deep bowl or container. To speed things up use a broad flat glass dish to increase the surface area of the solvent to air as much as possible and place a fan nearby to blow across the top of the fluid to speed evaporation. Never do this in an enclosed room and always have sufficient ventilation, especially if using a fan with their sparky internal commutator brushes. [b:396f37a40a]Purifying the extract[/b:396f37a40a] Although many report that the extract from this process can be used as is others have found that purifying the alkaloid is a must do for them. This can be accomplished by running the extract solids through a full acid to base defat or by a couple of other ways. The freeze-precip method works fairly well. This is done by dissolving a gram of extract into a small amount of naphtha and placing it in a freezer for a few hours so that the fluid will chill to near zero degrees F. causing the solubility of the naphtha to be reduced so far that it will not hold very much of the alkaloid which causes it to deposit on the sides of the container allowing the naphtha to be poured off (saved, evaporated and worked again) to net nearly white colored DMT which is scraped off the sides of the glass. This method will NOT work if you have too little alkaloid per quanity of naphtha vise versa, too much naphtha for the amount of alkaloid dissolved into it. The best way to do this is to prepare some warmed 100-120 degree naphtha and then place your extract (i.e. 1 gram of waxy alkaoid) in a small glass or jar and slowly pour in a very small amount of naphtha into the extract, just a little bit, a few ml and then stir the extract into the solvent you have added until it will not longer dissolve any more, adding more naphtha as necessary to completely dissolve the extract but no more than is needed. You want to completely dissolve the extract into the fluid to the point where the naphtha is completely without any kind of cloud to it but not beyond that point. To be sure you do not over shoot keep adding only small amounts of naphtha and continue stirring the extract into it until you reach the point where it has all completely dissolved and do not add any more solvent or this process will not work out as well as it can. Once the naphtha has become saturated to its maximum amount of alkaloid to the point where it is no longer cloudy seal the container and put it in a very cold freezer. After a few minutes the naphtha will cloud up as the alkaloid starts to precipitate out of the solvent but should not be removed from the freezer until the fluid clears. The cold naphtha can be from clear to yellow colored but should have no amount of cloud to it or the alkaloid which can come out of the fluid has not precipitated out yet. Once the fluid has been chilled to a low enough temperature, and allowed enough time to settle the fluid will become completely translucent. At this point you can then pour the naphtha into another container (saving and evaporating it, reworking the same way) and let the glass dry for an hour or more so that you can scrape the purified alkaloid off the sides and bottom of the glass for collection. The naphtha you poured off can be evaporated back down and reworked the same way again but will likely be far darker or perhaps a bit more gummy due to the impurities left behind in it. Another way of purifying the extract is to take, for example, 1 gram of extract and place it in a small glass cup of some kind and slowly not to disturb the spice pour in, for example 50-100 ml of naphtha and water bath heat (the same as a regular canning food jar partially submerged in hot water) the solvent in the jar to about 130 degrees F., but not much hotter or the solvent will begin to hard boil. Once the naphtha is hot enough the extract will begin to melt and bubble to a little bit form a syrup like blob in the bottom of the container. Continue allowing the spice to melt and spread out in the bottom of the jar to form a film covering the entire bottom and lightly swirl the naphtha without touching the goo in the bottom for just a couple of minutes or so. Once most of the alkaloid has dispersed into the solvent and all which remains is a thin yellow fatty puddle in the bottom of the glass carefully pour the solvent off and into another container for evaporation (or freeze precipitation to further purify it if you did not use too much solvent). You might want to add more naphtha to the jar with the slime in the b
 
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from : http://pkeffect.com/wiki/howto:dmt-extraction [b:4713dbf425]DMT Extraction[/b:4713dbf425] Disclaimer: All information is intended for informational purposes only. One should never add household chemicals to anything they intend to consume, especially if it is illegal to do so. Update: The original version of this technique was written in 2001. At that time the most complete version written was by QuantumTantra. This process did not include a “cooking down” stage. Until that time the process took weeks to accomplish. By adding the step of cooking down the plant source taken from the pages the shaman it was cut down to a day or so. Statistics From: [u:4713dbf425]Pharmacotheon[/u:4713dbf425] By: Johnathan Ott * Information: DIMETHYLTRYPTAMINE [Merck Index II: 3251; 12: 3311] * Synonyms: 3-[2-(dimethylamino)ethyl]-indole; N,N-dimethyltryptamine; DMT; nigerina; nigerine; Dimethyltryptamin * Physical: C12 H16 N2 molecular weight 188.27; C 76.55% H 8.57% N 14.88% * Isolation: Fish, J. Am. Chem. Soc. 77:5892, 1955 (Anadenanthera peregrina); Agurell, Acta Chemica Scandinavica 23: 903, 1969 (Virola theidora) * Synthesis: Manske, Canadian Journal of Research 5: 592, 1931; Speeter & Anthony, Journal of American Chemical Society 76: 6208, 1954 * Chemistry: crystals from ethanol, mp 44.6 - 46.8 degrees, sol. in dilute acids; picrate, mp 169.5 - 170.5°; methiodide, mp 216 - 217 degrees; fumarate, mp 152 - 152.5° * Pharmacology: psychoactive at 1mg/kg i.m. (Szara, Experientia 12: 441, 1956; Sai-Halasz, Psychiatria et Neurologia 135: 285, 1958) * Legal Status: Controlled, Schedule 1; United States Supplies: * Note: Listed here are the elements used. In no way should these be the only ones applied to this technique where legal. Other, perhaps better chemicals may be procured. One might also look to LAB GRADE glass and equipment. Always find the best chemicals available and test them before hand. [b:4713dbf425]Hardware[/b:4713dbf425] * Non-corrosive pots (2 - 3)[enamel coated]………5 - 10 liters * Seperatory Funnel or Mason jars (4-8)……………1 pint - 1 quart * Small to medium sized funnel Turkey baster * Eye dropper * pH papers (full range) or pH Meter * Pastry Cloth or Cheesecloth * Coffee filters * Non-corrosive Glassware (cake baking dish of some sort, preferably square shaped) * Non-corrosive stirring utensil * Plastic Gloves * Small fan * Razor Blades [b:4713dbf425]Chemicals[/b:4713dbf425] The substances used in this extraction (acid, base, solvent) are as follows: * Distilled water …………………………………………………….3 - 5 Gallons * Hydrochloric acid, muriatic acid ( 34.45% ) * Naphtha, Hexane, Toluene or other solvent……1/2 - 1 Gallon * Lye crystals - sodium hydroxide [NaOH] (ex. Red Devil brand) [b:4713dbf425]Outline:[/b:4713dbf425] With these next few paragraphs we will outline and discuss an extraction that will not take 1 - 4 weeks to accomplish but 8 - 24 hours depending on the amount of plant material you are working with. Now the basic theory behind this is to pull the alkaloids from the plant material. This can be accomplished a few ways: 1. Grind plant material…place in a mason jar and soak it in enough distilled water to cover the plant material thoroughly…adjust the pH to 1 - 2…let sit for a week…shaking it once or twice a day. Then follow “normal” acid/base (a/b) extraction. 2. Grind up plant material…put in a large pot and allot of water…3 - 5 times the amount of distilled water to plant material…adjust pH to 2 - 4 and cook down a few times…straining, filtering and saving the filterings to combine later for a final cook down. Proceed to further refinement. 3. Ask someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you. This procedure will concentrate solely on #2. This technique employs the idea of the ayahuasca (yage) brew. The shaman (brujo) will cook down plant material in large amounts of water to extract the necessary alkaloids for use orally in the form of ayahuasca. It’s simple. Working with powdered material can be messy. It is very difficult to strain and filter when there is tons of sediment caused from fine powdering. Simple shredding of the material works the best. By adding a freezing step after the first cookdown the cell structure is degraded, thus helping the alkaloids to be leached better. [b:4713dbf425]Process[/b:4713dbf425] [b:4713dbf425]Acidifying[/b:4713dbf425] :howto:dmt:1.jpg Take a large pot, place shredded plant material in it. Then cover plant material with enough distilled water to cover it fully and then some. Get the water going good enough so that the material is being moved around somewhat. Then add enough HCL (muriatic acid) slowly to drop the pH to between 2 and 4. :howto:dmt:2.jpg [b:4713dbf425]REMEMBER TO ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER WATER TO ACID !!![/b:4713dbf425] :howto:dmt:4.jpg Cook hard at a slight boil for awhile and get the material good and saturated and in a state of flux. Heat up for a few minutes then down for a few. Then just cook at just under boil until the liquid is part of the way down your plant material :howto:dmt:5.jpg scraping out the foam… DON’T LET THE WATER BECOME THICK LIKE OIL! When this amount is reached place your strainer in another pot and place pastry cloth (cheesecloth) in the strainer. :howto:dmt:6.jpg Slowly pour the contents of you brew into the strainer that is over another pot. After all the liquid is out of first pan, dump plant material into strainer and squeeze it like there is no tomorrow. Depending on the amount of plant material you may have to strain a few times. After you have strained it for all its’ worth, take the plant material out and through it in the freezer for awhile. As it freezes the cells walls breakdown. This will allow the alkaloids to be given up more freely. :howto:dmt:7.jpg frozen mimosa hostilis wads… Now place the frozen plant material from the first cookdown into the original pot. Cover with more distilled water just like the first time. Get it to a slight boil again before checking and adjusting the pH back down to around 2. :howto:dmt:8.jpg Note: Watch how hard you cook it and how much material you have. When powdered the sediment will collect and burn to the bottom of the pot like this if you don’t stir it. :howto:dmt:9.jpg bunrt plant material…. Back to the filtered product. Take your funnel and place it in a jar. Then place a coffee filter inside the funnel. Slowly pour your pastry cloth filtered brew into the funnel. This may take some time to strain through but well worth the wait. After all is filtered pour contents into a third pot and simmer on very low heat. :howto:dmt:12.jpg You now have a pot with plant material cooking down again and another pot with a 2nd stage filtered brew cooking down (simmering) also. :howto:dmt:11.jpg Repeat these steps 3 to 4 times. Each time the plant material is cooked down to a good level, filter with pastry cloth (cheesecloth) and then filter again with funnel and coffee filter then combine all 2nd staged filters into the same third pot. :howto:dmt:13.jpg After 3 or 4 cook downs of the plant material, throw out all remaining plant material, all alkaloids have been extracted. :howto:dmt:14.jpg The final part of this step is to allow the 3 or 4 combined cook downs to cook down to a reasonable amount. It should be somewhere between 800 - 1000 milliliters, depending on amount of material. After that goal is reached, filter through the coffee filter again. You don’t want the liquid to become too viscid. Clean, smooth and colored clear/reddish/brown is the goal, like Lipton Tea. :howto:dmt:15.1.jpg [b:4713dbf425]Defatting[/b:4713dbf425] Alright, now you are going to want to place the simmered down filtered brew into jars or your seperatory funnel. “Since this is for the average Joe I won’t go into to detail about using the seperatory funnel but I am sure you can get your head around it if so inclined.” You only want to fill each jar about halfway with the brew. :howto:dmt:17.jpg Now to each jar add approximately 50 milliliters of naphtha into them. :howto:dmt:18.jpg [b:4713dbf425]IT IS IDEAL TO KEEP YOUR SOLVENT WARM AND YOUR BASE COOL. BEWARE, SOLVENTS ARE EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE. DO NOT USE AROUND A FLAME!!![/b:4713dbf425] :howto:dmt:19.jpg Take an instrument that will not corrode in the acidic solution and stir the naphtha into the filtered brew. Keep stirring for a few minutes. By adding the naphtha you are defatting the brew, removing a lot of the nasty stuff that resides there. Now wait for the emulsions (layers) to form. It may appear as 3 layers. The dark bottom layer, then directly above it is a milky looking thin layer, and above that a clear layer. Now in this clear layer may be some fat floating. Place a small, tall, thin glass or dish next to your jars. Then, take your turkey baster or eye dropper and suck off the top layer (clear) and middle layer (milky) and deposit that gunk into the dish. Place the defatting stuff from all jars into this dish. You are going to want to save this dish stuff because it will continue to settle a little more and then when its done and you have moved along a bit, you can place your eye dropper back into the dish and siphon the good stuff off the bottom and place back into your already defatted brew. [b:4713dbf425]Basifying[/b:4713dbf425] In an empty jar or 2 or 3 depending on amount needed, pour enough distilled water to fill them up 3/4 of the way. Then slowly start adding lye crystals to the water while stirring it profusely. You may need to add around 2 teaspoons of lye to the water, this will raise the water pH to around 11 - 12. After the adding is done and you have stirred it a bit, place the lid on it and shake it vigorously for a minute or 2 untwisting the lid every so often to release any pressure. You will be adding this lye water solution to your brew jars shortly. This will unhook the salt form of the tryptamine to the freebase form. :howto:dmt:20.jpg After you are done defatting and have your lye/water solution prepared you must add 50 milliliters of fresh naphtha to now fully defatted brew jars. When you add the naphtha do not stir or shake it yet. :howto:dmt:21.jpg Slowly add lye water to the brew jar and stir the brew while doing so. A slow steady stirring will do wonders. NO SHAKING!!! Now pay attention things are happening. :howto:dmt:22.jpg The brew may very well take on a thick grayish looking color. This is not bad, but not good either. You must continue adding lye water until it turns to black or a darker version of its former self. The pH should be around 9 - 11. This is the magic, the salt converting to its’ freebase. Keep stirring for 5 minutes or so then let sit. Layers will form. Let it sit. If it doesn’t look right or emulsions are not forming then refer to earlier steps. Try adding some salt or a bit more lye water and some naphtha and stir it gently in. :howto:dmt:23.jpg After the layers have settled you should see 2 layers. By unhooking the salt to freebase it causes the tryptamine to rise to the surface in the naphtha. When the top layer is clear begin the process of siphoning off the clear stuff with the eye dropper. :howto:dmt:24.jpg Solution should resemble the above when layers have settled… [b:4713dbf425]Evaporation[/b:4713dbf425] :howto:dmt:25.jpg Place the clear siphoned naphtha into a glass baking dish. Try not to siphon anything but the clear layer. After you have siphoned all the clear naphtha off, add 50 milliliters more naphtha to each jar, stir, wait, then siphon. Repeat this process a total of 3 times. :howto:dmt:26.jpg Glass dish with siphoned solvent.. You can now discard the black brewed jars. REMEMBER to discard the left overs. Dump it into some fresh kitty litter or sand and dump it on a gravel road somewhere. [b:4713dbf425]NEVER dump it down the sink!!![/b:4713dbf425] :howto:dmt:16.jpg Now place the baking dish in front of your small fan and let evaporate. Having it in a very cool or chilled environment also helps in the crystal forming process. :howto:dmt:27.jpg When it is as dry as it will get, softly scrape the white crystals into a pile with a razor blade. You don’t want to press hard on the razor yet. Just try and get most off the dry white crystals into a pile. :howto:dmt:30.jpg :howto:dmt:34.jpg After that’s complete, scrape that baking dish for all its worth!
 
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I found this extraction technique interesting, so I had an AI organize and reformat the information for better clarity and understanding. I have reposted it to make it easier for others to follow.


regards goodboy

  • This is a fast DMT extraction method based on cooking down powdered or shredded plant material in acidic water (pH 2–4).
  • The plant is cooked multiple times, with filtrations between each step, and solids frozen to break down cell walls and improve alkaloid release.
  • The filtered extracts are combined and reduced to a concentrated brew.
  • This brew is defatted by adding naphtha to remove fats and impurities.
  • The brew is then basified with sodium hydroxide solution to convert DMT salts to freebase form.
  • After gentle stirring and settling, the freebase dissolves in naphtha, which is siphoned off.
  • This process is repeated multiple times to maximize extraction.
  • The naphtha solution is evaporated to yield crude DMT crystals.
  • Safety precautions and proper disposal of residues are emphasized throughout.

MOD EDIT: The information presented here dates from 2001 and should be regarded as much as historical documentation as a practical method!

While much of the information is technically valid, it also contains uncorrected errors, along with some outdated methods and techniques.

Before attempting to use it as an extraction guide, please consult some more recent information!
Click to expand...
MOD EDIT: The information presented here dates from 2001 and should be regarded as much as historical documentation as a practical method!

While much of the information is technically valid, it also contains uncorrected errors, along with some outdated methods and techniques.

Before attempting to use it as an extraction guide, please consult some more recent information!
Click to expand...

DMT Quicktek


PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY — DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION.
Click to expand...

This technique has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else, and those are:


  • To defat the powdered root bark by pouring straight naphtha directly into the powder without water.
  • To mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark, unlike other techniques.

There is no reason to do so — this works great without the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields. Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified solution too much over 140°F, the DMT alkaloid—which has become a freebase—can start to vaporize and be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified solution, be sure it does not exceed 100–120°F, allowing a reasonable margin.


My advice is that 100°F is plenty warm enough to speed the process up if desired but is not necessary.

DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction

By Vortex


The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method, which is very simple; the rest is extra information for those new to extractions.


This method can extract the majority of alkaloid from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours start to finish if you have the powdered root bark ready. Speed the evaporation of extraction solvent with a fan and a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions over 250g may take longer due to solvent evaporation time.


Dimethyltryptamine (DMT), contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark, can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into basified water adjusted to pH 13.5 by dissolving a base (e.g., NaOH) in water.


Basified water at high enough pH to convert the DMT salts in the root bark into freebase for absorption by naphtha can be made by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml water.


Prepare enough basified water to have about a 1/4 ratio powder (wet) to 3/4 basified water.


The sequence is important: make basified water first, let it cool below 120°F if heated by reaction, then stir powdered root bark in water for 5 minutes before adding naphtha.


Though room temperature basified water works, warm water from NaOH dissolution helps slightly but do not add powder if water is above 120°F.


Use 100 ml or more of room temperature naphtha per 250g dry root bark; stir solvent into aqueous mix at room temperature with a non-reactive utensil (stainless steel recommended) for 30 minutes each time.


Extract at least three or more times with fresh solvent, separating and saving naphtha each time.


After extraction, evaporate combined solvent to net fairly pure DMT in a few hours.


When done with quick extractions and before evaporating solvent fractions collected, pour fresh solvent into the mix, stir few minutes, cover tightly, and set aside in the dark for several days soaking to get the last of the alkaloid. Mash and stir once or twice daily (a stainless steel potato masher works well).


Avoid basified solution contacting skin.

Preparing Root Bark for Extraction

Root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if willing to wait days for NaOH to soften and break it down to mush, which extracts as efficiently as powder but slower.


For speed, powder as finely as possible:


  • Strip and cut root bark into fine pieces with pliers, cutting dikes, or tin snips.
  • Place bark in a large steel can, filling only about 1/10 full.
  • Using a thick steel pipe (1.5" or larger diameter), smash the bark into powder by pounding while holding can on a flat, hard cement slab.
  • Once pulverized to mostly powder, further powder remaining pieces with a high-RPM coffee grinder with stainless steel blades (allowing cool-down breaks to avoid burning thermal fuse).

Defatting Without Acid-Base (A-B)

Although extract from Mimosa hostilis is usually pure enough, if higher purity is wanted, small fats in root bark can be removed simply by:


  • Adding solvent (e.g., naphtha) directly to dry root bark powder and stirring for a few minutes.
  • Pouring mixture through paper or cloth filter to separate solvent (which now contains fats) from wet powder.
  • Discard solvent with fats, keep wet powder.
  • Then basify wet or dry powder with NaOH in water to raise pH above 13, converting DMT salts to freebase for extraction by fresh solvent.

This works because DMT in dry root bark exists as salts, which solvent cannot absorb until basified.


For extreme defat, boil powder in hot naphtha or other fat-absorbing solvent, cycling several times with fresh solvent each time. Filter fine particles to avoid losses.

Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment

  • Do not use plastic containers or stirring utensils that might react with solvent or base.
  • Use stainless steel, glass, or ceramic containers and utensils.
  • Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves.
  • Observe all safety when handling chemicals and solvents.

Warning: NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) is Dangerous

  • NaOH causes serious burns and eye damage; always wear gloves and goggles.
  • NaOH generates much heat when dissolved in water and may cause solution to boil over spraying hot caustic liquid.
  • Add NaOH slowly and incrementally to water; do not add water to NaOH.

pH — The Basics

  • pH 7 is neutral; above 7 is basic, below 7 is acidic.
  • Each pH unit represents 10 times difference in acidity/basicity.

Examples:


  • Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH): 13–14
  • Potassium Hydroxide (KOH): 13–14
  • Lime (Calcium Hydroxide): 12.4
  • Ammonia: 11
  • Baking Soda: 8.3
  • Human blood: 7.4
  • Pure water: 7
  • Vinegar: 2.2
  • Battery acid: 1

Basified water at about pH 13.5 is ideal for extracting DMT.

pH Meter or Papers Not Required

  • Use 1 tablespoon NaOH per 150 ml water to approximate pH 13.5 without measurement.
  • Add NaOH first, dissolve fully before adding root bark powder.
  • If emulsion forms while stirring with naphtha, add more basified water.

Emulsions break naturally if pH is high enough; if not, wait or add more NaOH.

Calculation Notes

  • Dissolving 1 mole (40 g) NaOH in 1 L water yields pH 14.
  • Half that amount (20 g) gives close to 13.5 pH.
  • Approximate teaspoon to grams conversion: 3 tablespoons ≈ 40 g NaOH.
  • Recommended ratio: ~1 tablespoon NaOH per 150 ml water for 1/4 powder to 3/4 water mix.

Other teks differ in water ratio; small deviations (~±20%) from this tech won’t significantly affect extraction.


Low water/high powder causing thick paste may reduce yield, but not tested extensively.

Extraction Failure Causes

  • Most common failure: pH too low (e.g., <13).
  • Low pH causes poor freebase formation, poor yield, and stable emulsions.
  • Good practice: after extraction, add more NaOH and re-extract to see if more alkaloid comes out.
  • NaOH can be used in large amounts safely (up to ~2/3 weight of root bark dissolved in water).

Bases Alternatives and Availability

  • KOH reported as alternative to NaOH but not widely confirmed.
  • Sodium hydroxide often sold as drain opener but availability reduced due to misuse.
  • NaOH can be made by electrolysis of saltwater but buying online is easier.

Caution on Temperature and NaOH Addition

  • Mixing NaOH into water generates near-boiling temperatures, which can spray caustic liquid.
  • Do not expose root bark powder to temperatures above 120°F when mixing basified solution to avoid alkaloid vaporization and loss.

Choice of Solvent

  • Several solvents used: dichloromethane (DCM), naphtha, hexane.
  • DCM heavier than water; can cause miscibility problems.
  • Naphtha common and readily available (e.g., VM&P, Ronsonol lighter fluid).
  • Hexane (Bestine) sometimes preferred; test solvents by evaporation for residues.

Using more solvent aids separation but increases evaporation time.

Mixing Naphtha and Emulsion Issues

  • Naphtha floats on water-based basified mix.
  • Stir from slow to moderate speed to reduce emulsions.
  • At correct pH (~13.5), emulsions are minimal and short-lived.

Separating Solvent from Aqueous Mix

  • A separatory funnel is ideal but root bark particles can clog it.
  • Alternative: wait for solids to settle, carefully pour off solvent.
  • Plastic bags discouraged due to contamination risk.

Evaporating Solvent

  • Evaporate in a shallow, broad glass dish to increase surface area and speed evaporation.
  • Use a fan for airflow.
  • Ensure ventilation, never evaporate indoors without airflow.

Purifying the Extract

  • Some use extract as-is; others purify further.
  • Freeze-precipitation: dissolve about 1 g extract in minimal warm naphtha, cool to near 0°F to crystallize DMT.
  • Pour off solvent, collect alkaloid crystals.
  • Heating method: heat extract in naphtha (water bath) to melt and dissolve, decant impurities, then freeze to precipitate.

Final Remarks

  • This method is based on others’ tried techniques with a few added ideas.
  • Small variation in ratios does not drastically affect results.
  • Experiment to find what works best for you.
  • Always follow strict safety precautions and legal guidelines.
 
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MOD EDIT: The information presented here dates from 2001 and should be regarded as much as historical documentation as a practical method!

While much of the information is technically valid, it also contains uncorrected errors, along with some outdated methods and techniques.

Before attempting to use it as an extraction guide, please consult some more recent information!
Click to expand...

History and Background

The original version of this technique was written in 2001. At that time, the most complete version was by QuantumTantra. This process originally took weeks to complete. By adding a "cooking down" step—extracted from shamanic practices—the process was reduced to a day or so.

Basic Information on DMT

  • Chemical Name: Dimethyltryptamine (DMT)
  • Synonyms: 3-[2-(dimethylamino)ethyl]-indole; N,N-dimethyltryptamine; nigerina; nigerine
  • Molecular Weight: 188.27 (C12 H16 N2)
  • Physical Properties: Crystals from ethanol; melting point 44.6–46.8 °C; soluble in dilute acids.
  • Pharmacology: Psychoactive at 1 mg/kg (intramuscular).
  • Legal Status: Controlled substance (Schedule 1 in U.S.)

Supplies Needed

Hardware:


  • Non-corrosive pots (enamel-coated), 5–10 liters capacity (2–3 pots)
  • Separatory funnel or Mason jars (4–8), 1 pint to 1 quart size
  • Small to medium funnels
  • Turkey baster
  • Eye dropper
  • pH paper (full range) or pH meter
  • Pastry cloth or cheesecloth
  • Coffee filters
  • Non-corrosive glassware (wide cake dish preferably square)
  • Non-corrosive stirring utensils
  • Plastic gloves
  • Small fan
  • Razor blades

Chemicals:


  • Distilled water (3–5 gallons)
  • Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid, 34.45%)
  • Solvent: naphtha, hexane, toluene or similar (1/2 to 1 gallon)
  • Lye crystals (sodium hydroxide, e.g., Red Devil brand)

Extraction Outline

This extraction can be completed in 8–24 hours, much faster than older methods taking weeks.


Three general methods to extract alkaloids:


  1. Grind plant, acid soak (pH 1–2) for a week with shaking, then do acid/base extraction.
  2. Grind, cook down plant in acidic water (pH 2–4), strain and filter repeatedly, then further refine.
  3. Have an experienced person do it.

This technique focuses on method #2 based on shamanic ayahuasca brew approaches—cooking down plant material in acidic water to extract alkaloids.

Process Details

Acidifying:


  1. Place shredded plant material in a large pot. Cover with ample distilled water so it's fully submerged.
  2. Heat gently so plant moves in water.
  3. Slowly add hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) to lower pH to between 2 and 4.
    Always add acid to water, never water to acid!
    Click to expand...
  4. Cook with gentle boil cycles: heating for a few minutes, then cooling briefly, repeat.
  5. Cook down liquid until it reduces close to the plant material level. Do not let liquid become thick or oily. Scrape foam regularly.
  6. Strain the liquid through pastry cloth or cheesecloth into another pot. Squeeze plant material thoroughly. May need multiple strainings.
  7. Freeze the strained plant material to break cell walls and improve alkaloid release.
  8. Return frozen material to pot, cover with distilled water, bring back to slight boil, adjust pH back to ~2 with acid.
  9. Repeat cooking down and filtering steps 3–4 times. Combine filtered liquids.

Notes on Cooking

  • When cooking powdered plant material, sediment tends to burn on pot bottom; stir regularly to avoid.
  • After combining all filtered extracts, simmer down to approximately 800–1000 ml (depending on initial amount).
  • Filter again through coffee filters for clarity. Goal: clear to reddish-brown liquid like Lipton tea.

Defatting

  1. Place simmered, filtered brew into jars or separatory funnels, filling about halfway.
  2. Add about 50 ml of naphtha to each jar.
  3. Keep solvent warm and brew cool.
    Warning: Solvents are highly flammable; keep away from flames.
    Click to expand...
  4. Stir naphtha into acidic brew with non-corroding tool for a few minutes. This removes fats and "nasty stuff."
  5. Let layers form (usually 3): dark bottom, milky middle, clear top (may contain fat).
  6. Use a turkey baster or eye dropper to remove milky and clear layers into a separate glass.
  7. Set aside this defatting liquid to settle further. Later, siphon off bottom "good stuff" back into the main brew.

Basifying

  1. In separate jars, fill distilled water about 3/4 full.
  2. Slowly add lye crystals (NaOH) with vigorous stirring—typically ~2 teaspoons per jar—to raise pH to 11–12.
  3. Seal and shake jars carefully, releasing pressure occasionally.
  4. Add 50 ml of fresh naphtha to defatted brew jars (do NOT stir yet).
  5. Slowly add lye water to brew jars while gently stirring (no shaking!).
  6. The brew may turn thick grayish at first—continue adding lye water until darker, almost black. pH should be about 9–11.
  7. Stir 5 minutes and let sit to allow layers to separate.
  8. If emulsions don’t form or layers look unusual, adjust by adding small amounts of salt, lye, or naphtha gently.

Separating Solvent

  • When layers settle, there should be two: aqueous bottom, naphtha top with freebase alkaloid.
  • Use eye dropper to siphon off clear naphtha layer carefully without disturbing other layers.

Evaporation & Final Steps

  1. Collect all clear siphoned naphtha in a glass baking dish. Repeat stirring, waiting, and siphoning 3 times total.
  2. Discard black residue in brew jars safely—do NOT pour down sink; dump on kitty litter, sand, or gravel roadside.
  3. Place glass dish in front of small fan to evaporate solvent. Cooler environments aid crystal formation.
  4. When dry, gently scrape white crystals into a pile using a razor blade—do not press hard.
  5. Scrape thoroughly to collect as much as possible.
MOD EDIT: The information presented here dates from 2001 and should be regarded as much as historical documentation as a practical method!

While much of the information is technically valid, it also contains uncorrected errors, along with some outdated methods and techniques.

Before attempting to use it as an extraction guide, please consult some more recent information!
Click to expand...
 
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I would say defatting is completely unnecessary if you're using MHRB, and that there would be a chance of actually losing product, throwing this first dry pull away.
I've done many acid/base extractions, and got some extremely white crystals from the very first pull of my base soup. I also recently did my first STB and got excellent results, again with no need for defatting. To my understanding, this is more important if using acacias and other source plants.
Good work using AI on that impenetrable wall of text. Maybe it's just because it's early, and I've not had coffee yet (next on the list) but I didn't find the AI assistance eradicated this problem. I find other tecs on the site more accessible, but I'll review my position après café.
 
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blig-blug said:
The reason the OP is a wall of text is that it was written in the first iteration of the Nexus, even before the old forum. So I imagine this tek's value is more historical.
Click to expand...
That's right - for example, here:
[i:396f37a40a]Vortex[/i:396f37a40a]
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we see but one example of the old BBcode which can still be seen in a few of the very oldest posts (such as the OP) which were migrated from DMT World into the old Nexus, and again into this new Nexus platform. It's only seen in posts dating from 2007 - early 2008 for this reason.

The formatted tek makes the numerous issues more easily highlighted, for example:
Goodboy said:
If emulsions don’t form or layers look unusual,
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^that looks like a typo/error - maybe better as either "If emulsions form" or "If emulsions don't resolve/separate/break"

Goodboy said:
Use eye dropper to siphon off clear naphtha layer carefully without disturbing other layers
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This will take forever 😂
Goodboy said:
Solvent: naphtha, hexane, toluene or similar (1/2 to 1 gallon)
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That's loads of solvent, and toluene can't be used for freeze precipitation methods.
Goodboy said:
Non-corrosive
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^This is just sloppy terminology - "corrosion resistant" or "non-corrodable" would be infinitely preferable. I would hope that corrosive cookware wasn't a thing at all.

All in all, you've done a very nice job of making the description look pretty, @Goodboy - and I'm sure you've kept it true to the original text so I'm not holding you responsible for the flaws - only their reproduction ;)
To that end, would you like to add disclaimer boxes at the head and foot of your post, explaining that the TEK is recorded for posterity and methods have improved significantly since 2001? Otherwise I'm quite happy to do so myself. [Your editing period may have expired, anyhow.]
 
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If it did pull spice then that would suggest that is was present in freebase form in the plant, to my knowlege it is only present in salt form (which would not be soluble in solvent ), but I'm no biochemist ... anyone know different?
 
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If a defat on mhrb reduces the small but irritating amounts of waxy sticky goo which contaminates the freeze precipitate it could be worthwhile. It would also give further evidence on what the goo is, polymers of dmt or some other substance.

It would be interesting to do a freeze on the fatted naptha and see if any goo precipitates then evaporate to see if there's other stuff.

It could also be that goo is released throughout the extraction, e.g. during any processes that break down the cells.
 
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