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New acacia extraction tek: FIRST VERSION READY !! (end post)

Migrated topic.


..still lc..
Hi, welcome to my first post :D I'm aware of most of the various teks out there, but this one is a little different and i quite like the idea :) if can be applied to any extraction where the plant material is quite full of non-polar gunk Swim gave it a shot on the weekend and so far all signs look good, all liquids were kept and will later be checked for dmt that didn't come through, but swim thinks the vast majority has come across Acacia Obtusifolia bark is being used Anyway, the process: --------------------------- 1: Grind bark 2: Cook in pH 4 water three times. Combine and reduce 3: Basify to pH 14 and transfer to extraction vessel (while HOT) 4: Extract with shellite three times, combine pulls 5: Wash shellite pulls with fresh pH 4 water three times, combine polar layers 6: Basify to pH 14 and transfer to extraction vessel (heat with water bath) 7: Extract with Shellite three times, combine pulls 8: Evaporate or Freeze Precipitate (latter is preferred) So the basic idea is: 1: Prepare bark 2: Get everything out of the bark; DMT (salt as pH 4), Oils, colours, etc.. 3: Convert the DMT salt to DMT base (plant gunk is present) 4: Extract with shellite (DMT base and plant non-polars will come across) 5: Convert DMT base to a salt again. The DMT Salt will migrate into the polar layer leaving the plant non-polars behind in the shellite) 6: Convert the DMT salt to DMT base (plant gunk is no longer present) 7: Again, use Shellite to grab only the DMT base this time 8: Freeze precipitate What you think? A little extra work yes but if you enjoy doing extractions like swim does then it's more fun if anything :D Swim says it works, GOOD, at step 8 right now and some mighty white crystals are precipitating out. the shellite had no visible colour either. The only thing is at step 7 (shellite pulls from basic water) some emulsions occured. Swim has never come across emulsions in a DMT extraction EXCEPT when he defats first (this is a post-defat tech i guess). Man those fucking emulsions... what rubbish Until this tech he has always stopped at step four and freeze precipitated there, and got a heap of plant oils which suck.. but by redissolving in shellite -> decant -> again etc... it can be cleaned up.. blah blah What you think? An initial PDF version of this tech will be ready in a few days, that may give you a better idea of what's going on. Edit: I give acknowledgement to avalokita from the nook for his suggestions on this one 8)
Good work man :) Sounds like what you did is along the same lines anyway, the whole post-defat is the basis really.. So you defatted your acidic solution, then basified and extracted.. yeah don't see a problem with that 😉 [i:413bf78b52]"Im wondering if its not the defat that is so important to acacias, but extracting the DMT in acid rather than base"[/i:413bf78b52] To be honest i don't think it's either of these, heat HEAT is what you need dmt is dmt is dmt, from whatever source and will behave the same. So theoretically it shouldn't matter (unless the acid helps break down cell walls more than high pH solutions do) Heat is the major factor to ensuring your solubility is maximised Test it for yourself with that spice you have, pour about 30mL of shellite over it and try and dissolve it at room temp, near impossible, but if you heat the solution in boiling water you can watch the dmt dissolve So, imo the key to success is making sure at every step that all solutions are as hot as possible while still being safe about it :D
Ok, I'm very new to all this stuff and this is the first time I'll be trying to extract something from a plant. can anyone explain this in simpler terms, I'm terrible with chemistry and things of the sort Any help is greatly appreciated.
Congratulations Coshi, It's a very nice and informative document. And what a nice yield !! Too bad there are no such Acacia in france... As your friend propose a A/B/A/B tek, I wonder if a STB/A/B would not work as well. This would simplify the grinding step by just letting the bark soak in strong lye solution for few days.
Thanks :D Definitely STB/A/B is what i'd be doing if i had MHRB If you / friend or anyone else clean up their STB results with recrystallisation, i suggest you give a further A/B a shot 😉
Cheers, it'll be interesting to hear how it works for MHRB do people usually recrystallise from a STB MHRB extraction or just use the STB result as is? i've never recrystallised and wonder if the experience is different at all.. (can't imagine it would be) thanks Noman
Nice guide. Ive always used the standard ab with a whole lot of defatting, and it always takes a few recrystallizes to get anywhere near the purity of what you have there. With assumedly more loss on top of more effort :p I have some bark thats been sitting in the freezer for a while i should give it a try on. How neccessary is the grinding do you think? The bark I get is nowhere near as thick as what you have in the picture. I always just chop it into approx 5mm * 20mm approx size pieces, its generally only 0.5mm thick. Never had a scale other than my very small one to weigh a bag of bark so no idea on my yields -_-
how are you getting such thin bark? what plant is your source? perhaps your taking bark from fallen twigs and smaller branches (it tends to be thinner and crumble easily) dunno just a guess I haven't made a direct comparison between finely powdered vs chunks, but the idea is to most efficiently remove the dmt from the bark you want to maximise the surface area contact of acid to bark; if you cook up chunks like the second pic in the tek, there's a whole bunch of dmt on the inner sections of the bark that you won't get to, so the finer the bark the more dmt is exposed, giving higher yields but like i said, i haven't compared.. but it makes sense so i do what i can do make it as fine as possible another benefit is if you can actually powder your bark, it'll take up a lot less volume than chunks or that bullshit fuzz in the tek
Its obtusifolia sourced a little west of sydney. The plants are generally only about 2 metres tall and a bit more bushy than the one on your respects page :p They often have several trunks splitting off a little above ground level. I generally chop off one of these from each plant as i make my way around the area and strip all the bark. Even at the very base though its only max 1inch in diameter. So alot is from the smaller branches too
Yeah that bark is smaller (and more of a bitch to chop through..) i recently used a cheap electric garden mulcher from bunnings, not bad, left the end result a little bigger than desired but was a shitload better than cutting it up with secateurs the bigger bark in the tek is from the lowest sections of the trunk bark. The entire tree was stripped (respects were payed, i went back and smoked dmt with it.. freaky, but i think i saw her smile)
He Coschi I was re reading the thread and saw the freebase (naptha phase) back to salt by shaking with pH4 sol'n to get rid of a lot of the unwanteds before basing it back again. Have you tried that method vs the std A/B to assess if there is any difference in yeild? I guess having have had some spectacular failures the prospect of loosing any % does not appeal. If it is a fairly good yeild then might give it a go. When you spend a month preparing an extraction another day or two cant hurt. Also I finally sourced some actives. Go Team WA.
Good work on the actives :D I'll get around to doing a comparison someday.. the first time i a/b'd i ended up with the pic you can see in the first page of this thread.. plenty of spice but saturated in plant gunk. i tried recrysallisation but failed miserably Mercks page on DMT says 'freely soluble in dil acetic acid and other mineral acids'. This seems right as once i stuck the first naptha pulls in the freezer along with the second ones, there was only a single tiny spec in the first one - this confirms the vast majority of dmt moved from the naptha back to the dil acetic acid. The only other possible loss is in getting it out of the acetic acid, but i think that with the right temperatures and technique again the vast majority can be recovered
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