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New Organic User Looking To Meet Other Cool Growers

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Th Entity said:
Interesting that you mentioned the milk!
One time i tried to make bhang,managuwa..cannabis infused milk whatever you want to call it and it didnt work, i preheated oven to 240-250F or 115-120C then i added few (small amount) G's of grounded up cannabis for 40 minutes (to decarboxylate thca - thc) after that i left it to cool down to room temp, and i put a pan with water on stove and on top of the pan another glass pot (that was not touching the bottom of the pot on the stove (water bath) i placed whole milk in the glass pot and the decarbed buds into it, i left it for another 40 minutes(while the water bath was boiling (milk hot to touch, with a lot of stirring) and at the end it didnt work. The only reason i have in my head why it didnt work is because the cannabis sucked but who knows i think i did everything all right.

IIYI have you tried using Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate (Epsom Salts)?
Dissolving about 1 tbsp per 1L and feed them or apply as foilar feed, its great stuff.
:thumb_up:

Generally, you did the right thing. You have done it more than you did.

For the temperature, I can not tell you anything. I have never measured the temperature of the milk. Because in a village I use an extremely old stove and it has no degrees, even the regulation of the temperature of this oven is very complicated.

I have not used a food thermometer. Ohhhh what cheese did we do ...

I even does not make milk in a water bath. (the water bath is plus because you can not burn it) Most likely it was something from the ganja. How strong was ganja? How much grass does you use? How much milk you use?

I do not know why, but my managua milk has always been extremely strong. (no matter from male or female plants). Usually people underestimate it and have overtaken it and did not want to repeat it, it was so strong. I always warned them that it was strong and to took a little. They greedy me laughing. They overcame and then treated with respect to ganja milk and other edibles (cookies, cakes, brownies and so on). The next few days we were joking with each other about milk, cookies and cakes. After an overdose some people are worried about eating cakes and cookies from home. After milk or some other edibles they always asked if there was grass or not in them. :D

Normaly I was doing 2 cakes. One with grass and 1 without grass. Because it is very tasty and you eat get high fro it and want to eat something more sweet, but if you eat from the grass cake you overlook ... for that right moment the perfect solution is the second non-grass cake.

Epsom Salts:
Buddy thank you for mentioning it. Many years I used the Epsom Salts to feed my plants. But from few years I have been using all organic and natural sources. Now for Mg i use Dolomite, Lime, Clay and a lot more staff. which can be given leaf, but also to be watered with them. I love leaf spraying, because through the Stomata of the leaves, the plant absorbs up to 9 times more nutrients than the rhizosphere of the root.

When I add Dolomite, Limestone or other stone flower to the soil I do not even need to give leaf Magnesium to the plants.

The best source of Magnesium I have access is Product name Nano Breath from BetterOrganix. Nano Breath give Cal, Mag, Fe and CO2 to my plants. Nano Breathe does a few extra things to help with the pressure of heat and drought which are outside of the benefit of the CO2 boost. (with beneficial microbes the boost is even bigger) Nano Breathe helps to regulate Stomata guard cells, these are the holes on the undersides of leaves which allow for exchange in and out through the leaf matter of all plants. NB can help keep guard cells open or closed for longer periods of time, so either increasing rates or decreasing rates of water loss. The nature of breathe is such that is contains cations as anions, these enable us to react and bind to otherwise radical ions in the leaf structure, mainly H+ but also to singlet Oxygen, this the major factor of cell tissue stress through Oxidation. Combining Root Better with K+AMINO and Nano Breathe, gives us a wide access to tools to resist environmental stressors. High levels of super oxide dismutase, esp in K+AMINO further help to reduce the risks of radical oxidation on the root zone, and the protective nature of Mycos in root better are what can give us an edge as growers over those using non biological methods.


BOX (BetterOrganix) is a thorough system of considered products mate. Many years of my friend research and that of others has gone in to every product we make. We are growers 1st and foremost and we have the same problems you all have. We work on this understanding as the basis. We address actual matters of plant growth through understanding nature as much as we can. We have thought of most of them buddy, from plant and seed, to soil, water and air.
 

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Th Entity said:
Also, planting seeds/clones in transparent containers is not idea, roots are not well adapted to sunshine, especially young fragile ones with little hairs on them, they burn.
A good way to root cuttings, is to place them under few T5 lights in a humidity dome (so they get their moisture thru their stomata (they dont have roots already) place the cuts into rock wool cubes with your prefered rooting gel/powder/liquid whatever and put perlite under the rock wool cubes with the cuttings, consider using heating matt.

i am also interested in what N-P-K ratio you use during veg/flower stages, and do you flush, if you do how?

Buddy i love to make clones. Making clones for me is fun because I use zeolite, beneficial soil bacteria and mycosis.
I've done under MX, under energy-saving bulbs, under luminescent, and even under the Sun (in the heat of the summer, during the strongest sun here). In the summer I even made them other plants that made them a shade. I just put a branch of another shrub to keep an extra shadow, and the cuttings are rooted in place even without being covered with anything that keeps them moist. I have experimented with cloning in many ways. I do not like rock wool cubes.

I prefer to use soil, mud, peat, compost, humus, coconut or a bunch of other things or a mix than to use rock wool cubes. (I have done many experiments including water, rock wool cubes, perlite and so on).

I've learned what works for me and what I prefer to use. Everyone is different, so everyone uses a different technique he likes.

Through the whole cycle I use fertilizers with low N-P-K but with abundance of life.
almost do not give them fertilizers. It strives for living soil.

I do not flush/wash, because i do not use salts and I grow the plants all the way organically and the taste is magnificent. Organic means a higher concentration of resins. (and the resins are taste, smell and potency, as well as a higher content of useful substances) I try to water my plants mostly with water.

I noticed something else that my cross breed that i grow with low content of N-P-K transfer this genetic dependence to the next generation. So the next generation needs even fewer nutrients. As they show an enviable connection to organic fertilizers and a desire for organic fertilizers. (low N-P-K but organic)

It's fun when someone of my friends who normally grows with lots of fertilizer by starting to grow my crosses and plants immediately show the colors of burning.

Less is More.
 

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I've tried many organic fertilizer brands (Biobizz, General Organics {GO}, Guanokalong and a bunch of others), but BetterOrganix is the most effective and good thing I've ever used. Reach the true joy and delight of the garden. These fertilizers unleash plants that develop with their full potential to imitate naturally occurring things in Nature.

BetterOrganix gets more abundance with less effort and expense. BetterOrganix is easy and lazy to use, but behind every product there is crazy science. The science behind these products is very beautiful. This science will make you want to know more and more. To grow {all} more and more.

One of my favorite products is RootBetter. Zeolite inoculated with endo-mycorrhizae (Glomus clarum, G. intraradices, G. mosseae, G. deserticola, G. monosporus, G. brasilianum, G. aggregatum, Gigaspora margarita.) And ecto-mycorrhizae (R. fulvigleba, R. rubescens and R .
Laccaria laccata, Pisolithus tinctorius and Scleroderma) plus bacteria in the appropriate proportions.
The symbiosis between higher plants and beneficial soil bacteria and fungi is a real pleasure for gardening.

A BOX(BetterOrganix) can be used for soil, coco or hydro. (the same products for everything)
The man who makes them is my friend. For us is important people to learn to care for their, own health, plants and soil. Living and Healthy Soil = healthy plants = healthy people .

The products are rather ready solutions for those who can not do their own fertilizers or compost.

For example, many people live in an apartment and can not have a great variety of plants or living systems to use for their plants. At this point, ready solutions are the easy choice. Of course, it's much better to make them by yourself, but this is the slower and harder way. (although it is better)

If you think I violate any rule, I apologize and please delete this post.

I can share with you a discount code, but I do not know if I have crossed the border.

I will open another topic in which I will share detailed information about producing diversity homemade fertilizers with a small effort.
 

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Hey IIYI, organic grower here. Very nice to meet another grower! :thumb_up: Nice looking plants! Organically grown cannabis tastes and smokes so much smoother...

I grow indoors and outdoors (zone 5a) but my favorite are the plants that go directly in the ground cuz they get full sun and have plenty of space to branch out. I'll post pictures once things get going this outdoor season but i do have one Ghost Train Haze growing indoors right now with all of my veggie starts and cacti seedlings.

I believe in keeping things simple and natural. My potted plants get donkey manure, garden compost which includes chicken manure, native soil, fox farms soil mix or similar, perlite, and a minuscule amount of potting sand. When i plant them in the ground, i dig a big hole for them and fill with manure/compost, and mulch the top with comfrey leaves. Comfrey plants can have 30+ ft taproots, which pull nutrients from deep in the earth, many of which are deposited in the giant green leaves (high nitrogen and potassium).

Everything gets mycorrhizae inoculant and everything gets fed once a week with compost tea from seedling through flower. Compost tea is aerated with garden compost and molasses; during outdoor season i add comfrey leaves. Occasionally i add a very small amount of kombucha into the brew. They also get a kelp solution when i feed them tea. No other feeding is necessary throughout the whole of their life cycle.

Outdoors, the cannabis plants get their own space, but i plant as many aromatics/beneficials as i can for natural pest control. Last year i planted: garlic, onions, basil, tulsi basil, lavender, calendula, lemon balm, korean mint, sage, sunflowers, and tons of marigolds all surrounding the plants. It was extremely effective at keeping all pests away. Many of these will come back this year too so i won't have to plant as much.

Just wanted to share my process and wish you well on your next grow. ;)

Peace,
-smoothmonkey
 

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Tony6Strings said:
I love this thread and the love you are showing for these wonderful plants!!!
True pleasure and love gives me to grow plants!

Tony6Strings thank you for the love and the vibrations :love:



smoothmonkey said:
Hey IIYI, organic grower here. Very nice to meet another grower! :thumb_up: Nice looking plants! Organically grown cannabis tastes and smokes so much smoother...

I grow indoors and outdoors (zone 5a) but my favorite are the plants that go directly in the ground cuz they get full sun and have plenty of space to branch out. I'll post pictures once things get going this outdoor season but i do have one Ghost Train Haze growing indoors right now with all of my veggie starts and cacti seedlings.

I believe in keeping things simple and natural. My potted plants get donkey manure, garden compost which includes chicken manure, native soil, fox farms soil mix or similar, perlite, and a minuscule amount of potting sand. When i plant them in the ground, i dig a big hole for them and fill with manure/compost, and mulch the top with comfrey leaves. Comfrey plants can have 30+ ft taproots, which pull nutrients from deep in the earth, many of which are deposited in the giant green leaves (high nitrogen and potassium).

Everything gets mycorrhizae inoculant and everything gets fed once a week with compost tea from seedling through flower. Compost tea is aerated with garden compost and molasses; during outdoor season i add comfrey leaves. Occasionally i add a very small amount of kombucha into the brew. They also get a kelp solution when i feed them tea. No other feeding is necessary throughout the whole of their life cycle.

Outdoors, the cannabis plants get their own space, but i plant as many aromatics/beneficials as i can for natural pest control. Last year i planted: garlic, onions, basil, tulsi basil, lavender, calendula, lemon balm, korean mint, sage, sunflowers, and tons of marigolds all surrounding the plants. It was extremely effective at keeping all pests away. Many of these will come back this year too so i won't have to plant as much.

Just wanted to share my process and wish you well on your next grow. ;)

Peace,
-smoothmonkey

smoothmonkey Your plants are very beautiful. It seems that they are happy with what you do to them. You do exactly the right things, both the indoor and the outdoor. Good job.

I do the same using Allelopathy. I use it in all my garden. (tomatoes love basil) By the way Tagetes erecta is a very useful plant, it keep away pests and has healing properties.

You have chosen a very nice strain ( Ghost Train Haze). Please after time share smoke report. I believe that every smoke report is valuable and useful.

According to my point of view (my prism) I would say that organics for me is a better solution. It really gives me joy to use organic . I feel in harmony with nature and with myself.

I also used donkey and horse manure from time to time. Thor which is collected from the mountains of Bulgaria. There are wild horses in some places here. (few places are left with wild horses, but they still have them)

We are now less often using animal fertilizers.

I highly recommend a book:
Bread from Stones - Dr. Julius Hansel
A New And Rational System Of Land Fertilizing And Physical Regeneration

It's 123 years old, but it's very interesting and full of valuable information. You can easily find it online in English free of charge.

Another very valuable book:
The One-Straw Revolution - Masanobu Fukuoka

He is a farmer and philosopher who was born and raised on the Japanese island of Shikoku. He studied plant pathology and spent several years working as a customs inspector in Yokohama.

Maria Thun - Biodynamic Sowing and Planting Calendar (Moon Calendar). Incredible author. She died, but the calendar is issued every year on the basis of her long-standing research.


Thank you for sharing smoothmonkey. (by the way i love monkeys ) I am very glad that there are other organic gardeners here. You have well done with your plants.

Soon i will start my cacti seeds too.

Some photos of wild manure. I will not tell you how I convinced my wife to take and use them :D :D :D
 

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Reading all that, few ideas popped in my head to recommend for organic growers (dunno why, maybe its because of the J i smoked).

Use activated/oxygenated compost teas, warm water, pumped with oxygen from air pump and stone at the bottom of the container, more CO2 dissolves in water forming carbonic acid (dissolved in water, slightly acidic) so if you use water with pH of 7 the carbonic acid will lower it slighy so the water is pH correct, and that is basically organic fertilizer.

I think of Nitrogen for plants is like protein for humans, it uses it to grow larger,bigger,taller etc. Phosphorus and Potassium for plants are like carbs for us, they use them to get more "fat".
And the plant prefer N instead of P or K during veg and flower (its more precious),
so if you want bigger/fatter buds cut the N and give more P and K, because when there is a lot of N the plant doesnt absorb P and K as efficiently as it could because it prefers N more than P and K, so it doesnt reach its maximum weight/potency potential. Thats why in indoor growing people usually flush before starting the blooming stage and switch to lower N fertilizers.

If you "stack" or "layer" the soil in your pot/bed make sure the top 4 inch (10cm) are taken care of, (the most biological/active zone, thats were the feeder roots are) use your richest stuff there.

That's it, i dont know if i should post this, because im in trance, but whatever.
It wont hurt, but it might help someone!
:lol:
 
The Entity thank you for sharing.
Tips are always valuable. Surely it will help someone.

Thank you for posting it. Yes it was perfect time you to post it especially when you are in trance. I believe that in a trance through us, the Spirits speak. Using us as intermediaries.

Because of the way they grow, nutrients in food have dropped dramatically, and literally people are sick. Because of the depletion of the soil, crops grown decades ago are much richer in vitamins and minerals than the varieties that most of us are growing today. Anemia affects more than 1.5 billion people worldwide due to iron deficiency. Globally, half of children aged 6 to 5 suffer from a shortage of trace elements. A whole host of diseases and problems from the lack of nutritional value of the food. The food becomes bulky but poor in its nutritional properties, and from the consumption of such food leads to deficiency in the organism, and from this the diseases are formed, things are connected. It is therefore extremely important to learn what the nutrients do in our plants and then in ourselves :) At least 20 elements are essential nutrients for plant growth 9 of them are needed in relatively large quantities and are known as macro nutrients, and the rest are called micro nutrients. Three of these macro elements (carbon, oxygen and hydrogen) are derived from air and water; the rest is from the soil. Soil nutrients can limit plant growth if they are not available in sufficient quantity, ratio or regular shape. Basic macro-nutrients from air and water:

Nitrogen (N)
Nitrogen compounds form a large proportion of plant tissues, especially amino acids that form proteins. Nitrogen is also a major component of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll absorbs light for photosynthesis. Nitrogen accounts for almost 80% of air but is generally not available for plants under this form, and in soil it must be "fixed" (combined) with other elements in the form of nitrates (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4 +). ions. The wind of the rocks releases these substances so slowly that plants rely on microorganisms in the soil to make the nitrogen accessible to them. Bacteria and fungi turn nitrogen into organic matter that plants can not get back into ammonium (NH4 +) in a process called ammonification. Ammonium is then converted to nitrate (NO3-) and nitrite (NO2-) from the bacteria Nitrobacter and Nitrosomonas in a process called nitrification. Nitrogen deficiency most often results in stagnation, slow growth and yellowing (chlorosis). Legume beans from the pea family are a special case. The roots of these plants have nodules containing symbiotic bacteria called Rhizobia that can oxidize nitrogen from the air in the form that plants can use. Legumes are often used in crop rotation to increase the amount of nitrogen in the soil. At the beginning of the 20th century an artificial nitrogen fixation process called the "Haber-Bosch" process was developed, and since then fertilizers and other nitrogen compounds, such as explosives, are manufactured on an industrial scale. This drastically increases the amount of food that is produced, but also leads to soil degradation and contamination from leakage of fertilizers.

Phosphorus (P
) Phosphorus is a basic structural component of DNA and adenosine triphosphate (ATP), a complex chemical that is essential for the transport of energy in all living things. Phosphorus is highly reactive and is often restricted to plants as it is slowly separated from the rocks and quickly binds to forms in which plants do not have access. Many plants make symbiotic connections with mycorrhizal fungi to increase phosphorus intake. Phosphorus deficiency causes intense green coloration or redness in the leaves. A high phosphorus fertilizer, such as bone meal(I do not like bone meal because it poses risks to human health as well as to plants. Also an animal has given its life.), is used to increase the phosphorus content. Similar to nitrogen, excessive use of phosphorous fertilizers is a major source of water pollution.

Potassium (K) In contrast to other essential elements, potassium is not involved in metabolism, but contributes to the formation of carbohydrates and proteins, contributes to photosynthesis and regulates internal moisture by opening and closing the gas exchange pores (Stomata) Potassium deficiency can cause yellowing between leaf veins, shed growth and weight loss. Potassium is particularly important for the formation of fruit with high potassium soils that produce larger, better colored fruits with a higher sugar concentration. Initially, potassium fertilizers were made by soaking wood ash in a pot and evaporating to leave white residues. Today, most of the commercial potassium ash is extracted from fossils below the ground because there are small amounts of it in the manure.

Secondary and Terrestrial macro elements:

Sulfur (S) is used in some amino acids and vitamins and is essential for photosynthesis. It is also needed to fix nitrogen in legumes and convert nitrogen into amino acids, and then into proteins Signs of failure, including yellowing of the leaves and lowered growth.

Magnesium (Mg) is the major part of chlorophyll, so important for photosynthesis, the symptoms of deficiency are similar to potassium deficiency.


Like micro elements, trace elements are essential for plant growth, but they are needed in much smaller quantities. There are eight micro nutrients that are mostly metallic or semi-metallic elements that plants get from the soil. These micro elements are predominantly atmospheric influences of parent rock materials, but small amounts are added from organic materials such as fertilizer.

Iron (Fe) Iron is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll, so the deficiency causes yellowing between leaf veins. It is rare for the soil to lack iron but plants may not be able to absorb them in alkaline soils and soils with high levels of available phosphorus, manganese and zinc.

Boron (B) Boron is important for the strengthening of plant cell walls and strongly influences the metabolism of plants and fruits. Borne deficiency is one of the most common deficiencies of trace elements, including redness, dying advice for growing and lack of fruit. Boron is mostly present in the soil in a soluble form that is prone to extraction. This means that sandy soils are prone to deficiency of Boron.

Chlorine (Cl) Chlorine is the only non-metallic or semi-metallic micro element. It is important for photosynthesis and internal moisture regulation by opening and closing the gas exchange pores ( Stomata ). Chlorine occurs in the soil as negatively charged ions, which as boron and molybdenum are prone to leaching. Symptoms of shortage include falling due to a stagnant root system. In the cabbage, the lack of chlorine causes the absence of a distinctive odor of cabbage.

Manganese (Mn)
Manganese is another metallic element that is essential for photosynthesis, and iron deficiency symptoms are similar. It may differ from iron deficiency because the young leaves are affected first because the manganese is not mobile in the plant and can not be moved from the older to the younger parts. Like many trace elements, the presence of manganese is related to PH of soil and iron content.

Zinc (Zn) Zinc is essential for DNA replication and is the most common shortage of micro nutrients from plants. Almost half of the world's grain crops are grown on soils with a deficiency of Zinc, resulting in loss of yield and widespread Zinc deficiency in humans. Symptoms of Zinc plant deficiency include yellowing and spotting of the leaves ("little leaf").

Copper (Cu) Copper is required for photosynthesis, metabolism and strengthening of cell walls of plants. Symptoms of failure include yellowing of the leaves. Like iron and manganese, the availability of copper for plants depends on the pH of the soil. Copper is also more difficult for plants to absorb when phosphorus and iron levels are high.

Molybdenum (Mo) Molybdenum is involved in the nitrogen metabolism, and deficiency leads to accumulation of nitrates in plant tissues, resulting in yellowing. Molybdenum is also essential for the fixing of nitrogen in the root nodes, so the deficiency in these plants causes nitrogen deficiency. Unlike most micro nutrients, Molybdenum is easier for plants to absorb from alkaline than acidic soils.

Nickel (Ni)
Nickel is also involved in the metabolism of nitrogen. In particular, the enzyme is essential to convert urea from animal waste to non-toxic forms of nitrogen that plants can use. The deficiency of nickel causes urea to accumulate in the plants, resulting in yellowing and death of the leaves.

You may have noticed that many trace elements are influenced by the pH and concentration of other nutrients in the soil because everything is related. On the photos you will notice a compost made from mushrooms. This compost have dual result because 1 was obtained food from the mushrooms, and then compost was obtained for the plants (again produces food or grass). On the next photos you will notice fertilizer preparation using an oxygen (air) pump. By the way, this mushroom compost and the algae slurry are incredible.
 

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Amazing!
For sure you know what you are doing, great job!
Im now curious to see pictures of buds or even better, close ups of trichomes.
Oh my god, properly organically grown bud (cure for month or two) = legendary magic! :lol: 😁
Good Job!
:thumb_up:
 
Th Entity thank you for the words buddy.
Your encouragement motivates me to share more. :)
 
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