psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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Trev_sunyata said:
Xylene pulls jungle, however zinc conversion only converts something like 30 or 40% of it from what i remember. What you can do is pull your dmt,nmt out first, via conversion to fumarate and then you will have only dmt-noxide left over with other jungle alkaloids. Trust me, there oxidated dmt is still very potent even after all the nndmt and nmt have been converted out. If youre unsure of the rations of applying it to herb then always make sure you test a little tiny bit out after before you take a masssive toke from a joint of it.
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
Emptiness said:
When you say to pull the dmt out first, I'm assuming that's the step I already did with the STB Tek?
And are you saying that the dmt n-oxide will not salt into the polar solution with others when converting to fumarate?
I'm ok with leaving any in with my jungle spice if xylene will pull it.
That's why my question was 'will xylene pull n-oxide'.
Or does it just pull the jungle alks
I just don't want to toss my base after I pull Jungle if all the n-oxide was still in there.
At that point I'd try to get since to de-ox
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
When my xylene evaporates, is there any step further to clean it of anything?
I know it won't freeze percipitate, and that re-X with hot Naphtha will only pull remaining dmt and some n-oxide.
But is there anything that can be done to ensure a solid or dry product?
I hear talk about Naphtha getting trapped in xstal structure in full evap, would that be any sorry of issue for my jungle spice?
Would scrapping up everything and dissolving in hot xylene or acetone until just dissolved and evaping with moving air do anything to improve it's formation or purity?
I know it won't freeze percipitate, and that re-X with hot Naphtha will only pull remaining dmt and some n-oxide.
But is there anything that can be done to ensure a solid or dry product?
I hear talk about Naphtha getting trapped in xstal structure in full evap, would that be any sorry of issue for my jungle spice?
Would scrapping up everything and dissolving in hot xylene or acetone until just dissolved and evaping with moving air do anything to improve it's formation or purity?
Greetings Nexians!
So my friend has recently carried extraction using Cyb's salt tek, he thinks that he correctly followed all the steps (only difference is that he used ACRB (he got it by the name acacia confusa inner root bark) instead of MHRB) and after freezing the pulls for 15h all he got in the dishes was naphta... so is there any way to determine if the alkaloids are still in in the mix? he still has some ACRB powder, is there any relatively quick way to see if the powder is of any alkaloid content?
EDIT: i dont know if it matters, but in this step when he added NPS, tutorial says shake.separate step should take about 45 mins - he did it like in 10 mins since the layers were separating very quickly
EDIT 2 : he also told me that he just found out that the vinegar that he was supposed to use according to Cyb's tek is white distilled vinegar 5% acetic acid...and he used spirit fermentation vinegar 10%. you think it might be the issue?
EDIT 3: scraping the dishes gave him this -
So my friend has recently carried extraction using Cyb's salt tek, he thinks that he correctly followed all the steps (only difference is that he used ACRB (he got it by the name acacia confusa inner root bark) instead of MHRB) and after freezing the pulls for 15h all he got in the dishes was naphta... so is there any way to determine if the alkaloids are still in in the mix? he still has some ACRB powder, is there any relatively quick way to see if the powder is of any alkaloid content?
EDIT: i dont know if it matters, but in this step when he added NPS, tutorial says shake.separate step should take about 45 mins - he did it like in 10 mins since the layers were separating very quickly
EDIT 2 : he also told me that he just found out that the vinegar that he was supposed to use according to Cyb's tek is white distilled vinegar 5% acetic acid...and he used spirit fermentation vinegar 10%. you think it might be the issue?
EDIT 3: scraping the dishes gave him this -
remyman612
Rising Star
A few questions concerning my first Rue extraction (using the Tao);
1. I see a lot of mention of 'washing', like washing with water, do a few washes with acid... what does this exactly mean? Putting the crystals into a strainer and run some water/vinegar through it? Or is it the process of adding liquid and discarding it as so to change the pH value of the mixture? (like this step)
2. I might have reduced my brew a little too much (used 200g seeds, have about 1400ml of liquid right now of which about 500ml is milky from the alkaloids settling. Will this cause problems?
3. Also my liquid mixture was only as milky as in the pictures shown in the Tao tutorial for a few seconds probably, after that it turned into a coffee-milky kind of color, again, there seem to be alkaloids precepping on the bottom so it's probably fine and my pH seems to be 14+ (since I tried to recreate that milkyness by adding more lye).
Thanks in advance!
(EDIT:
and another question.. just tried to do my decanting step after adding the lye and letting it settle... a lot of white stuff on the bottom got transfered to the container I was decanting to. Now I read in another guide to use a coffee filter for this process... so I'll have to catch the alkaloids in the filter and then... boil the filter? Wash it with water so the white goodies come out of it? Or should I discard the coffee-filter idea and use a pipette to carefully suck up the goodies?
1. I see a lot of mention of 'washing', like washing with water, do a few washes with acid... what does this exactly mean? Putting the crystals into a strainer and run some water/vinegar through it? Or is it the process of adding liquid and discarding it as so to change the pH value of the mixture? (like this step)
2. I might have reduced my brew a little too much (used 200g seeds, have about 1400ml of liquid right now of which about 500ml is milky from the alkaloids settling. Will this cause problems?
3. Also my liquid mixture was only as milky as in the pictures shown in the Tao tutorial for a few seconds probably, after that it turned into a coffee-milky kind of color, again, there seem to be alkaloids precepping on the bottom so it's probably fine and my pH seems to be 14+ (since I tried to recreate that milkyness by adding more lye).
Thanks in advance!
(EDIT:
and another question.. just tried to do my decanting step after adding the lye and letting it settle... a lot of white stuff on the bottom got transfered to the container I was decanting to. Now I read in another guide to use a coffee filter for this process... so I'll have to catch the alkaloids in the filter and then... boil the filter? Wash it with water so the white goodies come out of it? Or should I discard the coffee-filter idea and use a pipette to carefully suck up the goodies?
remyman612
Rising Star
I just tried decanting my settled liquid through a coffee filter.. the filter caught a lot of particles it seems and eventually tore open at the bottom (I moved it..) and spilled half of the alkaloids back into the pH soup :/.
I guess I'll have to dry the coffee filter and scrape the alkaloids off it and proceed from there? The only steps outlines in the Tao are:
Add hot vinegar and water to what? My filters? The alkaloid soup? There's a bunch of whitish soup left but there's no way it's 'pure'; that's why I figured I had to filter it. If I drop a bunch of hot vinegar into it and make it acidic again; then what was the point of basing it in the first place?
EDIT: just tried filtering some soup again with a double coffee filter; both the filters tore at the bottom again; I guess the basic material eats through it? I have now about 8 different containers containing some form of soup (some have non-based material as of yet) but I'm really clueless as how to proceed. I was somewhat successful in extracting some white soup from the mix using a pipette but ran into the problem that particles got stuck in it. I think I'll halt my extraction for now since I don't want to lose any
.
I guess I'll have to dry the coffee filter and scrape the alkaloids off it and proceed from there? The only steps outlines in the Tao are:
Add hot vinegar and water to what? My filters? The alkaloid soup? There's a bunch of whitish soup left but there's no way it's 'pure'; that's why I figured I had to filter it. If I drop a bunch of hot vinegar into it and make it acidic again; then what was the point of basing it in the first place?
EDIT: just tried filtering some soup again with a double coffee filter; both the filters tore at the bottom again; I guess the basic material eats through it? I have now about 8 different containers containing some form of soup (some have non-based material as of yet) but I'm really clueless as how to proceed. I was somewhat successful in extracting some white soup from the mix using a pipette but ran into the problem that particles got stuck in it. I think I'll halt my extraction for now since I don't want to lose any
.
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
Questions about my yeilds. This isn't really just a is this color goo ok to smoke, I just an trying to figure out what all comes out in what steps.
So the first goo is orange-red, it was obtained through Naphtha freeze percipitate and now the red does not redissolve back into Naphtha. It looks like small yellow beads suspended in s thick orange-red goo and is covered in a thinner clear seeming liquid. It has been doing under a small fan for Days, nothing further is happening.
Second goo is yellow with a greenish tint it seems. This was obtained through evaporation after freeze percipitate of Naphtha. This too has been drying for days, however this is a medium consistency of thickness, just enough to begin to spread right away when the glass is tipped, looked a very thin liquid resin it had been exactly like this for more than 3 days now.
This is just from my scrap solvent jar. I put everything back into Naphtha and re freeze percipitating just to see what happens, just in case the clear liquid in product 1 is Naphtha residue from evaping too low before freeze percipitate. but I'm wondering, any ideas what these yeilds could be?
Usually any yellow orange that comes out in freeze percipitate, I just use as a matrix to grow my crystals on top of, keeping my evap and percipitating going, adding pulls together growing them larger until that batch is spent. It looks really cool when dried and cured, like a bright Fire Agate coloration.
This goo really pumped up yeilds, got 1.62 percent from 50 gram s.t.b. going off memory from 5 years ago. Really potent too, I have yet to blast off because I'll load 35 mg, only vape half in a hit and back out from hitting again due to how intense it is already, but I hadn't used dmt in years so I'm getting trip anxiety, just getting my feet wet these first few times.
So the first goo is orange-red, it was obtained through Naphtha freeze percipitate and now the red does not redissolve back into Naphtha. It looks like small yellow beads suspended in s thick orange-red goo and is covered in a thinner clear seeming liquid. It has been doing under a small fan for Days, nothing further is happening.
Second goo is yellow with a greenish tint it seems. This was obtained through evaporation after freeze percipitate of Naphtha. This too has been drying for days, however this is a medium consistency of thickness, just enough to begin to spread right away when the glass is tipped, looked a very thin liquid resin it had been exactly like this for more than 3 days now.
This is just from my scrap solvent jar. I put everything back into Naphtha and re freeze percipitating just to see what happens, just in case the clear liquid in product 1 is Naphtha residue from evaping too low before freeze percipitate. but I'm wondering, any ideas what these yeilds could be?
Usually any yellow orange that comes out in freeze percipitate, I just use as a matrix to grow my crystals on top of, keeping my evap and percipitating going, adding pulls together growing them larger until that batch is spent. It looks really cool when dried and cured, like a bright Fire Agate coloration.
This goo really pumped up yeilds, got 1.62 percent from 50 gram s.t.b. going off memory from 5 years ago. Really potent too, I have yet to blast off because I'll load 35 mg, only vape half in a hit and back out from hitting again due to how intense it is already, but I hadn't used dmt in years so I'm getting trip anxiety, just getting my feet wet these first few times.
Hey guys I’m new here and recently I started my first STB Extraction using Nomans tek. I used 1:1 ratio of lye and mimosa and then 15mL of water for every g of mimosa (750ml total) after a couple of hours soaking I then added 50mL of Naptha VM&P and rolled the jug before letting it rest. I repeated this process 3-4 times and then pulled the layer into a jar. I’ve been trying to freeze it for 4 days now!!! Nothing! Not even a little formation of crystals. I’m just so confused?? Did I get bad powder. Do I need to leave it undisturbed for more than 3 days?! Help would be greatly appreciated
pete666
Esteemed member
What does it mean : "rolled". For how long? I suggest shaking like crazy (the most you can) for two minutes. Let separate layers. Repeat 3 times. Then remove solvent and put into freezer.Moptop15 said:
Repeat until anything precipitating.
Many barks don't have problem with such shaking and there is no emulsion. Try your luck
parallax42
Rising Star
Hello,
This is my first time posting here. I'm fairly new to chemistry, but I'm learning quickly. I have a couple of questions. Please, be scientific in response.
So I understand that acids become ionized in an aqueous solution producing H^- ions. Bases produce H^+ ions. I understand the basics of polar and non-polar covalent bonds. But what exactly is it about the spice molecule that allows it to be transferred into the non-polar solvent? I was told that the spice loses a proton. Now I was also told that some other compounds are transferred into the non-polar solvent as well, mainly fatty acids, oils, and other aromatics. But what is it about these compounds that allows for the loss of a proton? Why don't all of the other compounds in the aqueous solution lose a proton and transfer into the non-polar solvent as well?
My next question involves precipitation reaction and recrystallization. SWIM has recycled their Naptha numerous times. The spice is starting to exhibit a darker hue. I was told that the coloration is not an indicator of its purity. However, I can't imagine what else would cause this except for impurities. SWIM is planning on taking the darker spice and transferring it into warm, clean solvent and allowing it to recrystallize. SWIM was planning on just using clean Naptha for this process. However, a lot of people claim that it is better to use N-Heptane. Can someone please explain why N-Heptane is preferable for recrystallization apposed to Naptha?
This is my first time posting here. I'm fairly new to chemistry, but I'm learning quickly. I have a couple of questions. Please, be scientific in response.
So I understand that acids become ionized in an aqueous solution producing H^- ions. Bases produce H^+ ions. I understand the basics of polar and non-polar covalent bonds. But what exactly is it about the spice molecule that allows it to be transferred into the non-polar solvent? I was told that the spice loses a proton. Now I was also told that some other compounds are transferred into the non-polar solvent as well, mainly fatty acids, oils, and other aromatics. But what is it about these compounds that allows for the loss of a proton? Why don't all of the other compounds in the aqueous solution lose a proton and transfer into the non-polar solvent as well?
My next question involves precipitation reaction and recrystallization. SWIM has recycled their Naptha numerous times. The spice is starting to exhibit a darker hue. I was told that the coloration is not an indicator of its purity. However, I can't imagine what else would cause this except for impurities. SWIM is planning on taking the darker spice and transferring it into warm, clean solvent and allowing it to recrystallize. SWIM was planning on just using clean Naptha for this process. However, a lot of people claim that it is better to use N-Heptane. Can someone please explain why N-Heptane is preferable for recrystallization apposed to Naptha?
parallax42
Rising Star
Moptop15 said:
After adding your Naptha you're supposed to shake the reaction mixture and place it in a hot water bath. Just use hot tap water. Approximately 50°C (+/- 10). Repeat this a few times over the course of 18-24hrs. If you're having trouble getting the top non-polar layer to separate then you can stir in some non iodized NaCl. You then extract the top non polar layer. Your Naptha should now have a yellow hue. Wash off the outside of the container, place it in a freezer bag with ice, and store it in the freezer for approximately 48hrs. The product should precipitate and crystallize, and your solvent can be recycled.
mrelectron
Rising Star
Hi guys, In cyb's A/B salt tek in the adding non polar solvent step, I will be using naptha, in the steps it says to add 50 ml, shake for 20-30 sec, place in hot bath, leave for an hour to separate then it says repeat this four times, this could take around 45 mins,,, does that mean 45 min each repetition or 45 minute for the 4 shakes?
also can I use a plastic syringe to suck the naptha to insure I don't suck any of the black sludge.
more over, it says to repeat steps six and seven for a total of 5 pulls, does that mean an hour and 45 minute for each pull?
also can I use a plastic syringe to suck the naptha to insure I don't suck any of the black sludge.
more over, it says to repeat steps six and seven for a total of 5 pulls, does that mean an hour and 45 minute for each pull?
EtherBunny
Rising Star
I'm not sure if I did something wrong, but hopefully someone here can help. I'm not sure the name of the tek I'm using, but it's STB that I found through a quick google search (it's on another site, psychadelicscientist - idk if I'm allowed to link so I'll avoid that for now). Followed the instructions below:
-50g Lye added to 750 ml water by stirring in slowly
-add 50g of MHRB powdered finely and stir in, then close jar and shake vigorously
-let soak for 1 hour in sealed jar
-add 50 ml Naptha to jar and gently mix (turning, rolling, etc. no shaking) for about a minute
-let the layers separate and repeat gentle mix three more times.
-after final separation pipette clear naptha layer off to separate mason jar.
-add another 50 ml Naptha and repeat previous 3 steps 3 more times for a total of 4 jars with 50ml Naptha.
-freeze overnight
This morning I woke up hoping to find the naptha mostly gone and some spice in the jars, but instead I still have most of the naptha in the jars. There are some small deposits that look a bit like earwax (some are an off-white, some are yellow/orange) at the bottom of the jars, but most of the naptha liquid is still there. Worried that I didn't actually pull any spice out I added more naptha to the jar with the lye/MHRB today and it's still soaking after some more agitation/mixing. I let the jars sit out for a few hours without the lid hoping to help evaporation under my stove's range fan, then put them back into the freezer with the lids on but not tightened all the way down before I left for work. Did I do something wrong or do I just need to be patient? This is my first attempt at extraction and I don't know much to be honest, so any help that can be provided would be appreciated.
-50g Lye added to 750 ml water by stirring in slowly
-add 50g of MHRB powdered finely and stir in, then close jar and shake vigorously
-let soak for 1 hour in sealed jar
-add 50 ml Naptha to jar and gently mix (turning, rolling, etc. no shaking) for about a minute
-let the layers separate and repeat gentle mix three more times.
-after final separation pipette clear naptha layer off to separate mason jar.
-add another 50 ml Naptha and repeat previous 3 steps 3 more times for a total of 4 jars with 50ml Naptha.
-freeze overnight
This morning I woke up hoping to find the naptha mostly gone and some spice in the jars, but instead I still have most of the naptha in the jars. There are some small deposits that look a bit like earwax (some are an off-white, some are yellow/orange) at the bottom of the jars, but most of the naptha liquid is still there. Worried that I didn't actually pull any spice out I added more naptha to the jar with the lye/MHRB today and it's still soaking after some more agitation/mixing. I let the jars sit out for a few hours without the lid hoping to help evaporation under my stove's range fan, then put them back into the freezer with the lids on but not tightened all the way down before I left for work. Did I do something wrong or do I just need to be patient? This is my first attempt at extraction and I don't know much to be honest, so any help that can be provided would be appreciated.
PootisSpencer
Rising Star
Hello
my question is:
Is naphtha supposed to separate (almost) immediately from the base solution?
or am I doing something wrong
thanks
my question is:
Is naphtha supposed to separate (almost) immediately from the base solution?
or am I doing something wrong
thanks
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
It can do. Mix it a few more times for good measure, and thank the house sprites.PootisSpencer said: