psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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Atmozic
Rising Star
PootisSpencer said:
I'm not an expert by any means, I'm only relating my most recent experience. Yes you definitely need to leave it sit for 2 hours and then some. The reaction that is occurring is actually extracting the DMT, it's not due to surface area as far as I can tell. And I can say that because my first attempt I didn't follow the tek times as they were intended (misinterpretation) and as a result I got nothing.
pete666
Esteemed member
PootisSpencer said:
What was the concentration of the lye? There should be 250g in the water.
PootisSpencer said:
You should get something without soaking, but even powdered bark has still mostly intact cells, which have to be lysed. I suggest leaving the mixture for 24h with ocassional shaking.
But again, this is not a must, it just improves gain.
shake as much(and as long) as possible, let separate and repeat this cycle 3 times for first pull, 6 times for second pullPootisSpencer said:
PootisSpencer said:
I strongly suggest freeze-precipitation. Probability of contamination is lower.
PootisSpencer
Rising Star
pete666 said:
Thanks for taking the time to help me.
Alright so would I let it soak in a place at room temperature? is 2 hours long enough?
With the evaporation (although not recommended) method you dont need different pulls right? u Just get it all at once.
Also I used caustic soda (liquid containing NaOH) from the hardware store, but guessing I should use granulated lye instead.
But shouldn't I have got at least some yield from 250g MHRB instead of nothing?
WHat other mistakes did I make
PootisSpencer
Rising Star
pete666 said:
According to lazyman tek it should be half that??? so 125 g
pete666
Esteemed member
No problem. But please read FAQ first, ask only what you don't find there or in the forum.PootisSpencer said:
The more, the better. I suggest 24hrsPootisSpencer said:
No, you need many pullsPootisSpencer said:
It doesn't have to be granulated, as far as it is PURE.PootisSpencer said:
You just need to recalculate how much is in the solution and keep 1:1 (mhrb:lye) ratio
Yes, you should get something, although much less than when done correctly.PootisSpencer said:
Select the TEK, understand how it works (faq, search in forums/google), keep it to the point and if still not successfull, come and ask
Good luck friend
egsilva
Rising Star
I would like to ask the most basic question of them all, which stands from the fact that English is not my native language coupled with the fact that Im in biology not chemistry 
Im tying my first tek which what I thought was the most straight forward, which is the extraction using ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate. Im very excited, just don't want to do something wrong.
I've lived in the USA for 15 years so I can get around but this is an entirely new vocabulary for me and some things like "pull" , "filter the pull" confuses me, sadly.
Thank you for any help!
Im tying my first tek which what I thought was the most straight forward, which is the extraction using ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate. Im very excited, just don't want to do something wrong.
I've lived in the USA for 15 years so I can get around but this is an entirely new vocabulary for me and some things like "pull" , "filter the pull" confuses me, sadly.
Thank you for any help!
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
"pull" simply refers (in the case of the method you propose) to the ethanol after it has soaked through the basified plant material. Filtering is a basic technique like making coffee in a paper cone to keep the solids separate from the extracted liquid.
jordango22887
Rising Star
Hello everyone!
I just joined today seeking information, but I will keep this brief so it does not drag on. I have used an aya method three times, I have posted the link with the method below. Each time I used this method, I got a little closer to the desired effect. But each time the experience died a short time after intake. Now each experience became more powerful and closer to the desired effect, but unfortunately wore off after around MAYBE an hour TOPS. No purge, no long-lasting desired effects. Just an intensity that was definitely the brew taking hold, only to dissolve after a short period leaving me confused and a little frustrated. The last time I thought, "This is it, it's finally happening!" To the point of visual effects and physical feelings that could not be denied. So here is the link for the method:
Now, IF I had 455 grms of WHOLE banisteropsis caapi in the red vine variety and 100 grms Mimosa root bark SHREDDED, what might be the best aya method if the link above is not the best? Also, would there be enough vine material if a person MIGHT want to extract DMT for a different type of use? Would there be enough for both if a person felt they wanted to have both experiences? What would be the easiest, yet effective methods for both? Any help is appreciated, one just wants to have the experiences something like these compounds might have to offer. Thanks! :d
I just joined today seeking information, but I will keep this brief so it does not drag on. I have used an aya method three times, I have posted the link with the method below. Each time I used this method, I got a little closer to the desired effect. But each time the experience died a short time after intake. Now each experience became more powerful and closer to the desired effect, but unfortunately wore off after around MAYBE an hour TOPS. No purge, no long-lasting desired effects. Just an intensity that was definitely the brew taking hold, only to dissolve after a short period leaving me confused and a little frustrated. The last time I thought, "This is it, it's finally happening!" To the point of visual effects and physical feelings that could not be denied. So here is the link for the method:
Erowid Ayahuasca Vault : Ayahuasca Preparation: B. caapi & M. hostilis
'Ayahuasca Preparation: B. caapi & M. hostilis', by Anonymous.
erowid.org
Now, IF I had 455 grms of WHOLE banisteropsis caapi in the red vine variety and 100 grms Mimosa root bark SHREDDED, what might be the best aya method if the link above is not the best? Also, would there be enough vine material if a person MIGHT want to extract DMT for a different type of use? Would there be enough for both if a person felt they wanted to have both experiences? What would be the easiest, yet effective methods for both? Any help is appreciated, one just wants to have the experiences something like these compounds might have to offer. Thanks! :d
remyman612
Rising Star
Quick question; I've read that it's okay to take multiple days to do an extraction (as in; the tek might yield more yellow DMT since it will probably pull more plant material, but thats ok - you could always re-X). I'm just wondering if the MHRB soup + vinegar/salt + NaOH will mess up my (borosilicum) glassware? My biggest fear is getting home and seeing it spilled out all over the floor...
Basically; when is my glassware at risk? I mix my NaOH with water in a separate container to avoid excessive heat in my labglass; I presume that once the entire soup has cooled I can store it for a long time without worrying that my glass will suddenly shatter?
Basically; when is my glassware at risk? I mix my NaOH with water in a separate container to avoid excessive heat in my labglass; I presume that once the entire soup has cooled I can store it for a long time without worrying that my glass will suddenly shatter?
pete666
Esteemed member
Borosillicate glass is ok with lye concentrations used for our purposes (STB). If you don't use STB, it is negligible, as the concentration is even lower. Even occassional heating (last pull, emulsions, ...) is not of a problem. If there is any problem, it is from heat shocks, which is easy to avoid by caution.
Nonetheless, I would minimize the time the mixure is within glass container and change the glassware every 30 extractions if you want to be super safe.
And, the most important rule - do all the shaking/handling above the sink. Just a precaution, but very important.
Nonetheless, I would minimize the time the mixure is within glass container and change the glassware every 30
extractions if you want to be super safe.And, the most important rule - do all the shaking/handling above the sink. Just a precaution, but very important.
remyman612
Rising Star
pete666 said:Borosillicate glass is ok with lye concentrations used for our purposes (STB). If you don't use STB, it is negligible, as the concentration is even lower. Even occassional heating (last pull, emulsions, ...) is not of a problem. If there is any problem, it is from heat shocks, which is easy to avoid by caution.
Nonetheless, I would minimize the time the mixure is within glass container and change the glassware every 30
And, the most important rule - do all the shaking/handling above the sink. Just a precaution, but very important.
great, thanks a lot!
misfit
Rising Star
In regards to a straight to base extraction, my understanding where for every gram of mhrb used 15ml of distilled water and 1 gram of NaOH is needed. But what is the ratio for my nonpolar solvent nahptha? I plan on doing a small extraction for my first time. 25g of powdered mhrb. Thanks guys for an help you can give!
EDIT:
Found the answer I was looking for. 1ml naphtha per gram of RB used!
EDIT:
Found the answer I was looking for. 1ml naphtha per gram of RB used!
intheshadows
Rising Star
This is my first time extracting DMT, and I did the following steps.
I shredded 50g of mimosa hostilis root bark as fine as possible, added 50g of Lye to 750ml of water. Then mixed the bark and the Lye together and let it sit in the counter for 1 hour.
Then I added 50ml of naphtha to the mix, and gently stirred and turned upside down the mix a few times for 1 minute. It's been sitting on the counter for a while, and there is some separation, but I'm not sure if the separation is big enough.
Based on the following photo, can you guys tell me is this is normal or if I made a mistake during the process?
If not, how do I fix it?
Thanks
I shredded 50g of mimosa hostilis root bark as fine as possible, added 50g of Lye to 750ml of water. Then mixed the bark and the Lye together and let it sit in the counter for 1 hour.
Then I added 50ml of naphtha to the mix, and gently stirred and turned upside down the mix a few times for 1 minute. It's been sitting on the counter for a while, and there is some separation, but I'm not sure if the separation is big enough.
Based on the following photo, can you guys tell me is this is normal or if I made a mistake during the process?
If not, how do I fix it?
Thanks
pastanostra
Rising Star
From what you said, it seems good.
Some tricks you can try :
- try to see if you see naptha bubble coming to the surface
if you see, let more time to separate
- Your jar seems large so 50mL seems very little to easibiliy pull it, you can add 50 or 100mL more to the mix, then mix and let separate.
- Sometimes naptha hardly come up to the surface, so adding a bit of water, a bit of warm can help the mix being more liquid than soupy.(allways be carefull if you warm basic soup).
- You can try to mesure your PH and see "where you are".
- You can try to let your mix on a subwoofer of washing machine or a thing that produce vibration to help the naptha to go at surface.
- Try to transfert your mix in a bottle with a thin neck, that would be easier to pull.
If you don't have a bottle like that you can try to :
Mix hardly your naptha + basic mix and let separate.
Take a Champagne cup, and try to transfert in all naptha + little basic mix, then let fully separate, it should be easier to pull as the container is thinner.
:thumb_up:
Some tricks you can try :
- try to see if you see naptha bubble coming to the surface
if you see, let more time to separate
- Your jar seems large so 50mL seems very little to easibiliy pull it, you can add 50 or 100mL more to the mix, then mix and let separate.
- Sometimes naptha hardly come up to the surface, so adding a bit of water, a bit of warm can help the mix being more liquid than soupy.(allways be carefull if you warm basic soup).
- You can try to mesure your PH and see "where you are".
- You can try to let your mix on a subwoofer of washing machine or a thing that produce vibration to help the naptha to go at surface.
- Try to transfert your mix in a bottle with a thin neck, that would be easier to pull.
If you don't have a bottle like that you can try to :
Mix hardly your naptha + basic mix and let separate.
Take a Champagne cup, and try to transfert in all naptha + little basic mix, then let fully separate, it should be easier to pull as the container is thinner.
:thumb_up:
intheshadows
Rising Star
Thank you, I added an additional 100ml of naphtha I think it should be easier to pull that way because it was almost impossible to pull the layers without additional naphtha. and I agree, the large container is so large I probably should buy a narrower one and transfer the solution.
remyman612
Rising Star
Question;
Did my second extraction yesterday (trying to make my first changa with the yield from my 1st extraction) using Earthwalker's ACRB TEK 100g. Mostly for using the right ratio's for doing a larger batch, since I'm using MHRB and Cyb's salt tek is done for 50g batches.
Now in the clean up steps he writes down the following:
I'm wondering if my Heptane using plant fats and oils can still be used for something? The idea that is bouncing around in my head is doing some more pulls from the MHRB soup using a lot of heat, I don't mind getting some extra waxy yellowy spice since I figure I can use that to make some changa. On the other hand, if all I get is plant oils and such it doesn't make sense to try it. It seems like a waste to just toss 300ml of heptane; stuff might not a super duper expensive but it ain't that cheap either. I also have a liter of Xylene but am worried it will stink up my house too much... probably a stupid question but I guess it's a bad idea to mix the (oil containing) Heptane with Xylene to get super-jungle spice?
what can I use my oily heptane for?
Did my second extraction yesterday (trying to make my first changa with the yield from my 1st extraction) using Earthwalker's ACRB TEK 100g. Mostly for using the right ratio's for doing a larger batch, since I'm using MHRB and Cyb's salt tek is done for 50g batches.
Now in the clean up steps he writes down the following:
I'm wondering if my Heptane using plant fats and oils can still be used for something? The idea that is bouncing around in my head is doing some more pulls from the MHRB soup using a lot of heat, I don't mind getting some extra waxy yellowy spice since I figure I can use that to make some changa. On the other hand, if all I get is plant oils and such it doesn't make sense to try it. It seems like a waste to just toss 300ml of heptane; stuff might not a super duper expensive but it ain't that cheap either. I also have a liter of Xylene but am worried it will stink up my house too much... probably a stupid question but I guess it's a bad idea to mix the (oil containing) Heptane with Xylene to get super-jungle spice?
what can I use my oily heptane for?
Elrik
Rising Star
The answer can be split into two groups based on how much chemistry equipment you plan to obtain and learn to use.
• Solvents can be reused for extractions until the amount of fats and waxes begin to cause problems and then that solvent can be used for defats until it becomes saturated with fats or waxes, or produces troublesome emulsions. At that point it can be used as fire starter provided its a hydrocarbon [like heptane or xylene] and not a halogenated solvent [like DCM]
• If you plan to develop the skill and equipment to distill solvents, used solvents can be saved for that. The down side to this is the need to maintain safe storage for a larger volume of flammable solvents, and the fact that you will be stockpiling evidence of illegal activities.
If you do decide to eventually distill solvents, its best to distill most of our solvents with water. In most cases [hexane, heptane, petroleum ether, toluene, xylene] water lowers the boiling point by around 20-50ºC [azeotropic distillation] and in all cases it lets you distill the entire volume of solvent without distilling to dryness. In countries without heavy import fees, chinese glassware is inexpensive.
If solvent gets exhausted in its usefulness and you have no real plan to ever recycle solvents, just dispose of them and accept it as a routine cost of the extractions.
• Solvents can be reused for extractions until the amount of fats and waxes begin to cause problems and then that solvent can be used for defats until it becomes saturated with fats or waxes, or produces troublesome emulsions. At that point it can be used as fire starter provided its a hydrocarbon [like heptane or xylene] and not a halogenated solvent [like DCM]
• If you plan to develop the skill and equipment to distill solvents, used solvents can be saved for that. The down side to this is the need to maintain safe storage for a larger volume of flammable solvents, and the fact that you will be stockpiling evidence of illegal activities.
If you do decide to eventually distill solvents, its best to distill most of our solvents with water. In most cases [hexane, heptane, petroleum ether, toluene, xylene] water lowers the boiling point by around 20-50ºC [azeotropic distillation] and in all cases it lets you distill the entire volume of solvent without distilling to dryness. In countries without heavy import fees, chinese glassware is inexpensive.
If solvent gets exhausted in its usefulness and you have no real plan to ever recycle solvents, just dispose of them and accept it as a routine cost of the extractions.
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
Some globs formed on top of the basic solution but doesn't seem to break the bottom surface of the naphtha at all so I'm assuming it's more polar but floats and isn't dissolving. It's kind of a colored whitish clump, I'm thinking soap but not sure, I would think percipitated dmt would stick more to the non polar side.
Also after my last evap of some orange goo, I had a powder around the sides of the baby food jar, it wasn't like small cubes how dmt usually dried on the sides, more powdery, but not that much, I got some vinegar ready then rubbed my finger in it and got it wet, no burn so it's not lye, wiped my finger again in the powder and touched my finger to my tongue. Again, no burn, not dmt taste, no soap taste, thinking maybe percipitation from my polar socarb wash? Over saturated so as it cleaned my non polar solvent, some socarb fell out? Is that possible?
The powder seems innert and isn't at the bottom with the goo, only the sides, should I wipe it out, collect the goo then wash it out?
Also after my last evap of some orange goo, I had a powder around the sides of the baby food jar, it wasn't like small cubes how dmt usually dried on the sides, more powdery, but not that much, I got some vinegar ready then rubbed my finger in it and got it wet, no burn so it's not lye, wiped my finger again in the powder and touched my finger to my tongue. Again, no burn, not dmt taste, no soap taste, thinking maybe percipitation from my polar socarb wash? Over saturated so as it cleaned my non polar solvent, some socarb fell out? Is that possible?
The powder seems innert and isn't at the bottom with the goo, only the sides, should I wipe it out, collect the goo then wash it out?
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
Update on last post: still have suspected soap floaties. And with the mystery powder on the jar sides, the dmt was scraped off the bottom and redissolved (besides the n-oxide wax, that just smeared to the bottom), mixed with my final Naphtha pull after rebasifying, then SoCarb washed. Going to get it out of the freezer tomorrow it it already looks pretty good as far as yeild, pretty yellow cubes all across the bottom. I already have 1.25% yeild of nice big Crystal clusters, this might get me up to 1.5% from Naphtha before I switched to xylene. Can't wait for final results.
Anyway, new question
Does xylene pull n-oxide?
I am doing a jungle spice pull or two after my STB.
Wondering if I should salt it, try to convert with zinc, then dilute the polar and basify and pull with hot Naphtha?
Or just evap the xylene and try the jungle spice?
I'm not opposed to the jungle spice but if any pros think that I'll get a good yeild converting, I'll give it a try.
Almost want to just go for the jungle spice since yeild will obviously be higher than further processing it, plus it's said to be stronger. Sounds like it would be good to lay it 1:4 on some herbs so that a joint can be rolled with half a gram or more of the mix and smoked between 2 or 3 people.
From what I have read on jungle spice, it seems like it would be more enjoyable smoking in a way that little was smoked at a time repeatedly giving time to feel it out and not get thrown right into a state of shock from 20mg in one hour
Anyway, new question
Does xylene pull n-oxide?
I am doing a jungle spice pull or two after my STB.
Wondering if I should salt it, try to convert with zinc, then dilute the polar and basify and pull with hot Naphtha?
Or just evap the xylene and try the jungle spice?
I'm not opposed to the jungle spice but if any pros think that I'll get a good yeild converting, I'll give it a try.
Almost want to just go for the jungle spice since yeild will obviously be higher than further processing it, plus it's said to be stronger. Sounds like it would be good to lay it 1:4 on some herbs so that a joint can be rolled with half a gram or more of the mix and smoked between 2 or 3 people.
From what I have read on jungle spice, it seems like it would be more enjoyable smoking in a way that little was smoked at a time repeatedly giving time to feel it out and not get thrown right into a state of shock from 20mg in one hour