• Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).

official extraction help thread

Migrated topic.
Sort by date Sort by votes
Maybe a silly question, but is there really a difference between Gordo Tek and q21q21's?

Is one supposedly more efficient than the other?

Thanks!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Question...
Can one simply add more lye and water to the mud solution (Mimosa) to raise the liquid level to better fit up to the neck of a bottle for better decanting of the naptha?

OR

Will doing so effect the pulls or unbalance the solution in some way?

Will it impact yield?

Thank you!

[---/\---]
[--/gt\--]
[-/----\-]
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Nope it's fine to add moar water to get it to the desired level, won't mess anything up. You likely won't need moar lye unless you are seriously diluting it, but it never hurts to drop in another spoonful for good measure.

P.S. I'm gonna go ahead and pull the duplicate question thread for this as this is the right place for it.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Question about moist crystals. Used q21q21s tek- a/b lime base naphtha pull.

Removed from freezer, drained, left to evaporate for over 1hr. No smell of naphtha, but strong smell like “detergent” - noticed similar smell after adding lime (calcium hydroxide). Scraped up crystals easily but they were a little sticky/moist. When pushing crystals off the blade with some card, the card seems to have absorbed a little moisture off the crystals.

Possible trace naphtha trapped under the crystals?
Dmt isn’t soluble in water right? So it couldn’t be trace h2o?
Possible impurity in the lime? (Food grade E526)

Any help appreciated
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Thanks pete666. I’m not rushing anything, so I’m giving it plenty of time to dry out.

I was REALLY surprised just how much it stinks. I’ve had plenty off experience with powdered substances, and I know freebase substances do smell, but Jesus! this stuff stinks! What’s more I’ve been smelling that stuff for a while now - I kept accusing my wife of changing the washing detergent :lol:
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hi there Nexus Peeps and thank you for any answers in advance

As a D chemistry student in high school, I am really enjoying new-found respect for the discipline and fortunately, a few of the old lessons and theories are still bouncing around in the noggin. I am following Vovin's Tek but couldn't help messing with it a bit (is what I do) so I am currently on my 3rd 'tea' extraction cycle. Per cycle

150gms of ground up MHRB
750ml distilled water adjusted to PH4 with vinegar
'souse vide' in a zip lock bag for 4 hours @ 150 f per cycle

I now have 1400ml (first 2) of gorgeous ruby red liquid decanted - with an inch of sludge at the bottom

Q1) Is there a way to test whether the aqueous solution is oversaturated and thus I would be losing product by isolating the solution at this stage

Q2) Should I be concerned about losing product by filtering off this sludge (for any other reason) as recommended by Vovin (sorry for asking Vovin)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0564.JPG
    IMG_0564.JPG
    91.7 KB · Views: 0
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hello,
I'm not the uber chemist here but so far I went with the idea that as long as your pH is low enough, there's room for alks to use the H+ to get into their salt form. 'Saturation' as you put it would mean a pH that start to rise.
The alkaloid salt form is highly soluble in the watery liquid and thus rid of the sludge is no problem. You might squeeze the sludge and/or flush with water and use that water too.
My 2 cents, open for correction.
Happy trials.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I seem to be having a perpetual goo issue of late and it has me stumped. I recently performed two separate extractions, one following along with the BLAB tek more or less (I boiled with citric acid instead of long soaks in vinegar). I was left with some very hard crystalline looking fumarate w/a light orange hue. I left this sit out in a cupboard and the next day it turned into a viscous tar that was closer to red in color. I dissolved the freebased residue of this in IPA and then evaporated over some weed for later with great effects.

The second extraction was boil and base tek. Upon consolidating and freeze precipitating my first three pulls I was left w/some very nice sizeable white crystals stuck to the glass. Within an hour of being under a fan for evap (after dumping naptha and turning jar upside down in freezer), I was left w/ a crystal clear goo that I then scraped up and ran a FASA on. Now once again, I am left w/ an orange fumarate goo.

I don't mind the goo necessarily for freebase, but I need a solid I can reliably handle and weigh. I'm just at a loss for what is going on here. All of my solvents are dried with anhydrous MgSO4. I evaporated the naptha and there was no residue...same w/the acetone. I filter and decant well, using droppers where necessary. These are the first extractions I've done (other than a few other failures on bunk test products) in my current locale (FL). I'm wondering if the altitude, humidity, and temperature are playing a role in this?

Attached is a pic of the once solid fumarate before it turned to a goo.

Thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • fumarate.jpg
    fumarate.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 1
Upvote 0 Downvote
downwardsfromzero said:
Mycosis - you'll notice fumarate being deliquescent under such conditions of humidity. It would have to be stored in a sealed container with desiccant if you want it to remain as crystals.
Click to expand...


Yea I figured I made a mistake leaving it in open air...especially after I dried in a convection oven at 170F (goo originally). I think I essentially made it anhydrous so it quickly absorbed moisture from the air overnight. I'm also convinced I lost quite a bit of product in the oven so I won't be doing that again.

I ran another two extractions. Turns out I can get freeze-precip crystals to stay...just have to super-super-saturate the naptha (where crystals are already forming on bottom at "room temp", evaporate in freezer overnight after pour off, evaporate more in refrigerator for several hours. Finally I can allow them to air dry for a few days before scraping up. Still left w/a bit of clear goo but I'll accept that. Room temp crystallization would probably be best...maybe I'll give that a go next time too. Oh, and NO MOVING AIR!

The fumarate precipitation is going much smoother this time as well. I also super-saturated the limonene and then added 5mL of FASI every few hours or so. It takes at least 4-6 hours for the solution to clear up enough to make the precipitation detectable on the next addition of FASI. I'm finally getting some nice long crystals in the jar of the first three pulls. The other stuff is orange goo that I'll try to clean up. Much more acceptable.

So I guess down here, one has to take things much slower (especially temperature changes). I think it also helped that this time around I only used 50mL on the first pull and 25mL every pull after that (200g MHRB runs; I made it a point to mix for 15 - 20 min at a time over the course of several hours too). This ensured the solvent was always cloudy even at rest.

I think I'll probably just stick to keeping fumarates on hand in a sealed jar w/desiccant for now on and convert to freebase when/if it's needed for smoking. I'm also wondering if water-based precipitation is the way to go in this climate (will try sodium carb saturated water freebasing next)?

Thanks for the feedback!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Why does q21q21 state in his tek that, when converting the dmt acetate into freebase using BLAB, "step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests"? Everywhere I have read people recommend to bombard the acetate with sodium carbonate and then put it into IPA/Acetone
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Woolmer said:
Why does q21q21 state in his tek that, when converting the dmt acetate into freebase using BLAB, "step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests"? Everywhere I have read people recommend to bombard the acetate with sodium carbonate and then put it into IPA/Acetone
Click to expand...
Can you link to this quote? I've looked on the wiki but couldn't find a step 6c anywhere.

But in general, it's possible for errors and misapprehensions to crop up from time to time. The statement seems very unlikely to be correct.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
downwardsfromzero said:
Woolmer said:
Why does q21q21 state in his tek that, when converting the dmt acetate into freebase using BLAB, "step 6c should be able to be done without using sodium carbonate but rather just dissolving the gooey-acetates in acetone according to my tests"? Everywhere I have read people recommend to bombard the acetate with sodium carbonate and then put it into IPA/Acetone
Click to expand...
Can you link to this quote? I've looked on the wiki but couldn't find a step 6c anywhere.

But in general, it's possible for errors and misapprehensions to crop up from time to time. The statement seems very unlikely to be correct.
Click to expand...

Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki

It is in parenthesis in the last sentence of the section that says Alternative Next-Steps of Tek 1
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Woolmer said:
Q21Q21's Vinegar/Lime A/B Extraction Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki

It is in parenthesis in the last sentence of the section that says Alternative Next-Steps of Tek 1
Click to expand...
OK, I see it refers to an elusive step 6c in the BLAB. Which is still not clearly labelled as step 6c.

I would be extremely surprised if the mere act of dissolving DMT acetate goo in acetone somehow transforms it into smokable DMT freebase.

It seems that a note to this effect has been added to the wiki.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Can I turn DMT acetate into FB by using lime and then pulling with acetone? Is this going to give me DMT FB + calcium acetate? All of the posts I have read have recommended using sodium carbonate as a base but lime should work just as well, right?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Hi,

i use the q21q21 tek since 2years now but instead of pulling with limonene i use naphta. i always have good result, 1.5 % average.
Usually it run well with the consistency 1, crumbly, dry but this time i take a try with the second consistency, the soupy one. So i did it in the same condition as the other time with the same mimosa batch.It use less naphta but nothing precipitate in the freeze, so i would like how i could rectify it. Adding more lime? in order to turn it crumbly as i do usually, or trying to evaporate some water, naphta remaining in the soup?

Thanks all, with all my compassion
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Back
Top Bottom