psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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OrangeShift said:
Naw. Just use the lid to strain it or if you're really worried, use a coarse strainer. When you refrigerate, all the shit will fall to the bottom and stick, making the liquid easy to pour off.
OrangeShift
Rising Star
One last ? before swim tries another extraction. Is swim doomed to emulsions using Calcium Hydroxide, swim would like to avoid NaOH at all costs because of it's illicit status in swim's location.
If so how can swim overcome this obstacle?
If so how can swim overcome this obstacle?
histones said:
You probably boiled a good deal of alks away.
1. Sounds good.
2. No evap about half in a shallow wide pan at room temperature. Then freeze precip.
3. I don't even know what that means.
4. You don't evaporate that way if you've recrystalized.
Keep reading.
OrangeShift - my friend has been trying every way he can come up with to extract at pH 11 and he just can't get anything at less than 12 and anything more than shit yield at less than 13.
The only hope I can see at pH 11 is precipitation from the basic solution which I believe 69ron is working on. It's likely out of kitchen chemist's hands for now - he's starting from Soxhlet extractions.
Potassiun Hydroxide would do it, and I don't think it's watched, but it is also much less common.
Shit, this is what I read and burst into laughter...
KUSHMASTER
Rising Star
Well I do believe cheese cloth isn't actually cheese...Haha But still, why would you want to do that?
I just didn't realise the word "cloth" was actually included in the sentence... and the fact that it was followed by the phrase "delicious shards of glass" for a moment reinforced the thought in my mind that cheese itself can actually be used inside the naphtha for getting delicious crystals...
OK, now it's about time I stop talking rubbish and get back to work!
OK, now it's about time I stop talking rubbish and get back to work!
histones
Rising Star
yes CHEESE CLOTH. otherwise the resident Drosphilia melanogaster tend to make a grave of it. or ect dust and cat hair contaminate the beaker.
Noman
#3 is in reference to using hot NP to dissolve the spice.. after its freeze preciped... or if it evaps at room temp.. both have worked. "just enough to dissolve the spice" is what I meant, so as to save NP and the time it takes to evap at room temp., the optional wash is in reference to preforming a wash of the dissolved spice in the NP to remove dust hair, and whatever else, the either freeze precipitating again... or now that the spice has been made cleaner... a slow evap at room temp for the dramatic looking "super mans crystal palace" looking clusters of spice..
if the battery to the digi could be found i would show you what i mean.
and #4 WHY NOT?
isn't it an option always to make large crystals? SWIM has been experimenting with a variety of time tables to obtain large ultra pure crystals and the longest wait time has only been 2 days. They are DIAMONDS ultra hard and really cool looking. SWIM is much more impressed by this than the "flaky needle" look..
HOWEVER COMMA~~
it has been observed... that the ultra white look has not yet been able to be obtained from these larger crystals, is that DMT N oxide? or is it just the way the light refracts through them to give a more yellow look? some have been REALLY yellow, others look like the color of eggnog (but clear)
I have read a great deal of information and have stalked these boards for a while. There is simply oodles of conflicting information about this subject. Let alone the even larger volume of misinformation and posts containing very basic questions. only have so much time in a day to sift through it all!
Noman
#3 is in reference to using hot NP to dissolve the spice.. after its freeze preciped... or if it evaps at room temp.. both have worked. "just enough to dissolve the spice" is what I meant, so as to save NP and the time it takes to evap at room temp., the optional wash is in reference to preforming a wash of the dissolved spice in the NP to remove dust hair, and whatever else, the either freeze precipitating again... or now that the spice has been made cleaner... a slow evap at room temp for the dramatic looking "super mans crystal palace" looking clusters of spice..
if the battery to the digi could be found i would show you what i mean.
and #4 WHY NOT?
isn't it an option always to make large crystals? SWIM has been experimenting with a variety of time tables to obtain large ultra pure crystals and the longest wait time has only been 2 days. They are DIAMONDS ultra hard and really cool looking. SWIM is much more impressed by this than the "flaky needle" look..
HOWEVER COMMA~~
it has been observed... that the ultra white look has not yet been able to be obtained from these larger crystals, is that DMT N oxide? or is it just the way the light refracts through them to give a more yellow look? some have been REALLY yellow, others look like the color of eggnog (but clear)
I have read a great deal of information and have stalked these boards for a while. There is simply oodles of conflicting information about this subject. Let alone the even larger volume of misinformation and posts containing very basic questions. only have so much time in a day to sift through it all!
histones
Rising Star
Ronue said:
Ronue,
is cheese soluble in naphtha?
if you add a very cold piece of cheese to the solution as the crystals begin to form; you MAY be able to form crystals around the cheese curd..ect.
this may be an interesting method of administering oral DMT, but then again cheese is one of those fermented foods you are supposed to avoid on an MAOI diet.
this website says mozzarella cheese may be ok. MAOI Diet Addendum
histones said:
Because if you recrystalize you have already formed crystals (hence the name) and all you do is pour that minimal amount of NP off of them and let them dry.
The cheesecloth bit is for a long slow evap - or did you mean to redissolve your recrystalized crystals and evap that?
histones
Rising Star
yes that is correct, i meant evaporation after redissolving the recrystalized crystals. slowly using cheese cloth.
when this has been done (even using very white freeze precipitated crystals) the resulting crystals at room temp using a slow evaporation method seem to always result in off white to even deep yellow crystals, i was wondering if this was from the formation of DMT N Oxide using a fan.
It may however be inconsistencies in SWIMs observations.
One method that has delivered consistent results is combining all of the NP pulls and reducing to 600 ml then letting the beaker sit over night in the still hot crockpot ( the crock pot is turned OFF and allowed to slowly cool to room temp) with a fan on in the room (blowing outside) rather than blowing on the surface of the naphtha.
The naphtha reduces at room temp to be about 300ml in the morning and the beaker is covered on large clear shards, similar to freeze precipitated ones. the excess NP is poured off and freeze preciped to obtain any remainder.
---
However, at one point.. (not always this much naphtha or bark ) what was reduced to 600ml was a 3L first pull of 3k MHRB and it did not yield as well as the 1K at a time.
this is when it seemed obvious that the reason for the poor yeild was most likely the prolonged evaporation over heat in the crock pot using a 1000ml beaker and the freebase DMT vaporizing in the air.
Lesson learned.. dont be greedy!
when this has been done (even using very white freeze precipitated crystals) the resulting crystals at room temp using a slow evaporation method seem to always result in off white to even deep yellow crystals, i was wondering if this was from the formation of DMT N Oxide using a fan.
It may however be inconsistencies in SWIMs observations.
One method that has delivered consistent results is combining all of the NP pulls and reducing to 600 ml then letting the beaker sit over night in the still hot crockpot ( the crock pot is turned OFF and allowed to slowly cool to room temp) with a fan on in the room (blowing outside) rather than blowing on the surface of the naphtha.
The naphtha reduces at room temp to be about 300ml in the morning and the beaker is covered on large clear shards, similar to freeze precipitated ones. the excess NP is poured off and freeze preciped to obtain any remainder.
---
However, at one point.. (not always this much naphtha or bark ) what was reduced to 600ml was a 3L first pull of 3k MHRB and it did not yield as well as the 1K at a time.
this is when it seemed obvious that the reason for the poor yeild was most likely the prolonged evaporation over heat in the crock pot using a 1000ml beaker and the freebase DMT vaporizing in the air.
Lesson learned.. dont be greedy!
Damn, all this cheese conversation made me hungry, I think I am sticking my naphtha in the freezer tonight, I need to precipitate all that dissolved gorgonzola for my breakfast tomorrow morning...
histones said:
My mistake.
I guess the way to tell would be to try to redissolve the crystals in the same solvent that they formed from.
I'm assuming that would be eiher naptha or heptane, in both of which (according to 69ron) n-oxide is insoluable.
69ron
Esteemed member
That info about the n-oxides didn't first come from me, it was originally from Trout. See Trout’s Notes on the Genus Desmodium. Here's a clip from that document:
That statement "remain behind in the residue" clearly states that the N-Oxides are insoluble in petroleum ether (naphtha, heptane, etc.) so they remain behind.
I've attached his document. It's quite helpful.
69ron
Esteemed member
histones said:
Some of it is newly formed DMT N-Oxide. The rest is oils and fats.
If you evaporate the naphtha with a fan, lots of new yellow DMT N-oxide forms rapidly from contact with oxygen. This will happen even more if a little heat is added.
As long as there is available oxygen, and freebase DMT, DMT n-oxide will form no matter what.
histones
Rising Star
Also.
why the repeated naphtha pulls? wouldn't putting say... 4 pulls of 250 ml each for each 1k MHRB all at once (so 1L total) and agitating 4 times and allowing the emulsion to settle out have the same result?
Is this done as a result of volume restrictions? as in; the classic 1 gal glass jug being mostly full so repeated pulls are needed. Naphtha use is a matter of speculated yield isnt it? solvent use in general is a matter of speculated yield. you can always use too much and too little..
OR
does a repeated exposure allow for more time to elapse in which the freebase spice can dissolve or is more attracted some how to migrate into the NP solvent (whatever it is) is there some force that controls this?
In the garden there is a woman who uses 5 gal carboy wine jugs with 2 gal of MHRB wine and has plenty of room to put 1L or more NP solvent in her carboy. She likes the ability to swirl and mix without upending the vessel. no problems with emulsions. She then pours it through a 1L sep funnel to collect the NP.
why the repeated naphtha pulls? wouldn't putting say... 4 pulls of 250 ml each for each 1k MHRB all at once (so 1L total) and agitating 4 times and allowing the emulsion to settle out have the same result?
Is this done as a result of volume restrictions? as in; the classic 1 gal glass jug being mostly full so repeated pulls are needed. Naphtha use is a matter of speculated yield isnt it? solvent use in general is a matter of speculated yield. you can always use too much and too little..
OR
does a repeated exposure allow for more time to elapse in which the freebase spice can dissolve or is more attracted some how to migrate into the NP solvent (whatever it is) is there some force that controls this?
In the garden there is a woman who uses 5 gal carboy wine jugs with 2 gal of MHRB wine and has plenty of room to put 1L or more NP solvent in her carboy. She likes the ability to swirl and mix without upending the vessel. no problems with emulsions. She then pours it through a 1L sep funnel to collect the NP.
Faust
Rising Star
SWIM has a question about the Noman's "DMT For The Masses Tek"
There is a line that states SWIM must use the 3rd pull as an overnighter in a dark place. Meaning put it in SWIM's closet for 2-4 days agitating occasionally (probably 3 times per day). Does this vastly increase SWIM's yield? How many days is necessary in a closely followed (50g Bark, 50g Lye, 750ml of Water) Noman Tek STB?
There is a line that states SWIM must use the 3rd pull as an overnighter in a dark place. Meaning put it in SWIM's closet for 2-4 days agitating occasionally (probably 3 times per day). Does this vastly increase SWIM's yield? How many days is necessary in a closely followed (50g Bark, 50g Lye, 750ml of Water) Noman Tek STB?
The tek says:
"7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays."
So that would be the fourth extraction. No, it won't increase your yields that much, my friend has just noticed that alks continue to seep into the NP over time and that tek was written to be fast so he put that in to make up for any alks left behind due to haste. Your friend could also put his vessel in a warm water bath or use a less selective solvent like xylene for the last pull.
"7. Repeat steps 4 to 6 three more times. Leave the last NP extraction in the jar for a day or two, agitating occasionally to pick up any strays."
So that would be the fourth extraction. No, it won't increase your yields that much, my friend has just noticed that alks continue to seep into the NP over time and that tek was written to be fast so he put that in to make up for any alks left behind due to haste. Your friend could also put his vessel in a warm water bath or use a less selective solvent like xylene for the last pull.
SWIM used the Lazy Man Tek, and already managed to acquire a nice bit of spice after seperating the naphta from the mimosa brew and keeping it in the freezer. However, there seems to some sort of emulsion left, making it difficult to seperate the final bit of naphta from the bucket filled with brew. The actual MHRB darkish liquid is 'underneath' this layer of gooey/naphta liquid.
Is it useful to filter and throw away this oily emulsion, before adding some more naphta? SWIM googled on this issue and found some images that very well look like the stuff that he is talking about.
He has added more basified water, and will let it sit for a night now..
Is it useful to filter and throw away this oily emulsion, before adding some more naphta? SWIM googled on this issue and found some images that very well look like the stuff that he is talking about.
He has added more basified water, and will let it sit for a night now..
