psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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wayne
Rising Star
hello, SWIM got an extraction-problem-
SWIM used about 80 grams mhbr on 8dl water with about 12 teaspoons lye
everything coloured black , and with the naphtapulls the nafta (8 cl eacch pull) turned yellowish
but after freezing there comes extemly little spice?
SWIM evapourated some of the first pull in pirex ovendish, result was little yellow spice
it smells very nice , like expensive parfume, says SWIM
Did swim use too little lye, or too much nafta?
SWIM used about 80 grams mhbr on 8dl water with about 12 teaspoons lye
everything coloured black , and with the naphtapulls the nafta (8 cl eacch pull) turned yellowish
but after freezing there comes extemly little spice?
SWIM evapourated some of the first pull in pirex ovendish, result was little yellow spice
it smells very nice , like expensive parfume, says SWIM
Did swim use too little lye, or too much nafta?
tonight was the night that i "Tried" to extract dmt from mimosa. I did everything right (i think). but i never could get the last 50ml of my first 100ml naptha pull to come out of the mhrb brew.
i began with 100g rb
100g lye
1500ml distilled water
it wasnt thick and i had it in a milk jug
after an hour i finally added 100ml of naptha
i only rolled it never shaking it or jerking it (no splashes)
after about 15 minutes i used a turkey baster (very very very hard) to get some of the naptha out
there isnt a 3rd emultion layer and i never did get the last 50 ml naptha out.
any suggestions. next time i try this i am going to do the same thing only in a bottle with a long neck so it will be easier to use the turkey baster. but i do not know why the naptha would come out. there was a crap ton of little bubbles through out the mhrb brew that i could see when looking into the jug.
i plan on trying another extract either later on tonight or tomarow night.
i began with 100g rb
100g lye
1500ml distilled water
it wasnt thick and i had it in a milk jug
after an hour i finally added 100ml of naptha
i only rolled it never shaking it or jerking it (no splashes)
after about 15 minutes i used a turkey baster (very very very hard) to get some of the naptha out
there isnt a 3rd emultion layer and i never did get the last 50 ml naptha out.
any suggestions. next time i try this i am going to do the same thing only in a bottle with a long neck so it will be easier to use the turkey baster. but i do not know why the naptha would come out. there was a crap ton of little bubbles through out the mhrb brew that i could see when looking into the jug.
i plan on trying another extract either later on tonight or tomarow night.
Spiceman
The Spicemeister
Hello , This is my second post here but I thought I would chime in on this conversation with a few handy suggestions. Swim doesn't extract DMT the way that most people do anymore but he remembers the turkey baster and quart jar days very well. He learned a few very helpful things in those days. Swim really reccomends a trip to the local pharmacy to obtain a couple of medicine droppers in the 3-5 ml range.Yes its slower than a turkey baster but with a steady hand you can remove 98 % of the solvent added each time without sucking up any soup. Now once you pull your solvent you need the proper vessel to put it in. Swim in the old days preffered baby food jars . Yes tiny baby food jars . If you combine two pulls worth of solvent from say a half a gallon of soup and place it in the baby food jar and it fills the jar more than a third of the way , then you used TOO MUCH solvent. This is the reason people have to leave their jars in the freezer for days to get their product. Swim could use two baby food jars and alternate them , starting his pullson a pound or better of bark in the morning and by that night have all the crystallized , complete product from the whole batch of bark. Use less solvent and your product comes out VERY quickly. Like one pulls should yeild all its goods in less than an hour under normal conditions(and the right solvent). Also swim would reccomend moving away from naptha as a primary solvent. He realizes that yes it is easy to obtain but so are much better solvents such as di-ethyl ether. One premix solvent that is easily obtained and relatively cheap is gunk brand - thrust starting fluid. No residue and mixed 8 parts di-ethyl ether to 1 part heptane. This stuff is great and will not only increase the size of each pull but will yeild faster results in the freezer. This stuff takes time and experience to learn the finer points but the main thing is this. Learn to freeze precipitate .. evaporation for obtaining dmt in this method yeilds garbage for a product . Peace be to all.
wayne
Rising Star
thanx, SWIM getting somethong out, but realise i need propar equipment. Equipment is very hard to get upp north here, SWIM got out some,
but understands it's wise to get proper tools to work with
Swim likes his junglespice, smells perfume, he wonders if it's possible to wash the nafta before te spice? annyone knows?
but understands it's wise to get proper tools to work with
Swim likes his junglespice, smells perfume, he wonders if it's possible to wash the nafta before te spice? annyone knows?
Somebody I know is going to be doing their 2nd extraction soon and had a few q's before he begins. His first extraction of 1lb MHRB only yeilded .8 unpure crystals, which was probably due to inexperience and also shitty bark. He did Marso's tek with shredded MHRB, this time he plans to do the same tek but with powdered MHRB.
1. Is everything pretty much the same when working with powdered or do some things need adjustment to get the right ph's? He does not have a PH meter and is hoping to do without...
2. Marso's tek calls to decant the solution, but he was thinking that won't be possible with powdered material, so what should he do? He was thinking to filter all 3 pulls through a tshirt, then filter once more after letting it all sit in the fridge. Is a tshirt fine enough to catch all the powdered material?
3. Last time he precip'd in small jars, this time he was thinkin about using a glass baking pan with plastic wrap on top. Does naptha eat plastic wrap?
Anything else he should consider when working with powdered material?
1. Is everything pretty much the same when working with powdered or do some things need adjustment to get the right ph's? He does not have a PH meter and is hoping to do without...
2. Marso's tek calls to decant the solution, but he was thinking that won't be possible with powdered material, so what should he do? He was thinking to filter all 3 pulls through a tshirt, then filter once more after letting it all sit in the fridge. Is a tshirt fine enough to catch all the powdered material?
3. Last time he precip'd in small jars, this time he was thinkin about using a glass baking pan with plastic wrap on top. Does naptha eat plastic wrap?
Anything else he should consider when working with powdered material?
Yes, pretty much the same. One might need to use more water if the solution looks thick and sludgy.
The particulate matter will settle to the bottom and form a sticky paste that is really easy to decant. Straining through a T shirt works fine if one is worried about it.
Naptha doesn't eat plastic wrap, but getting a good condensation proof seal is difficult with a baking pan.
The particulate matter will settle to the bottom and form a sticky paste that is really easy to decant. Straining through a T shirt works fine if one is worried about it.
Naptha doesn't eat plastic wrap, but getting a good condensation proof seal is difficult with a baking pan.
deadheadjpc2000
deadheadjpc2000@yahoo.com
I have Q regarding ph levels...
Mars' Tek..says to use 1 quart 5% vinegar to 3 quarts water...aiming for 4 ph...5% vinegar being 2.4 ph, +/-
Q:
Wouldn't it be better to use full strength 5% vinegar, thereby achieving
the low ph needed for full separation from bark?? 2.4 vs. about 4
Granted, would have a terrific smell, and might have to add more base than called for to adjust to the high ph needed later.....
Thankx, Appreciate any thoughts...
Peace
Mars' Tek..says to use 1 quart 5% vinegar to 3 quarts water...aiming for 4 ph...5% vinegar being 2.4 ph, +/-
Q:
Wouldn't it be better to use full strength 5% vinegar, thereby achieving
the low ph needed for full separation from bark?? 2.4 vs. about 4
Granted, would have a terrific smell, and might have to add more base than called for to adjust to the high ph needed later.....
Thankx, Appreciate any thoughts...
Peace
Spiceman
The Spicemeister
Swim has two suggestions here regarding these last couple of questions. First, the Q regarding the shirt catching the fine powdered bark. If you use pre powdered bark the stuff is very fine and hard to filter . Yes a T shirt will do but no it will not catch the small stuff so here is a suggestion. After you boil the bark and you filter the powder from the liquid ( coffee filters would never work her because they are too fine, so yes a tshirt is just fine) you can set the filtered solution in the refridgerator overnight or even just a few hours in a jar or whatever. This cold temperature will cause all the fine powder to fall to the bottom of the jar and then you can gently pour the clear solution from the top. Much easier to work with this way.
The second question regarding ph. In swims experience you cannot really over basify within reason. Its possible but really poses no problem . The general rule of thumb goes like this. How much ever base you had to add to the solution to make it go jet black, add one third that amount again. This will in theory put your ph idealy around 13 - 13.5. Emulsions stop forming at 13.4 so if you are seeing emulsions ... try setting your jar of solution in a hot water bath and stirring. If you still see bubbles you need more base ;-)
Oh and the question about rinsing the naptha .. im not sure I understand exactly what you are asking but here is something swim used to do reguraly and felt that it did help the purity of his end product. (Swim used ether not naptha but it works the same with any solvent) Mix the solvent you are going to use in a large bottle and add exactly the same amount of water... shake it , shake it some more.. and shake it some more. Now remove and use the solvent. You would not believe how much crap comes out into the water which would have wound up in the final product. Try it and I'm sure you will also do this from now on. Well I gotta split for now. Good luck all.. I hope this helps some. Peace !
The second question regarding ph. In swims experience you cannot really over basify within reason. Its possible but really poses no problem . The general rule of thumb goes like this. How much ever base you had to add to the solution to make it go jet black, add one third that amount again. This will in theory put your ph idealy around 13 - 13.5. Emulsions stop forming at 13.4 so if you are seeing emulsions ... try setting your jar of solution in a hot water bath and stirring. If you still see bubbles you need more base ;-)
Oh and the question about rinsing the naptha .. im not sure I understand exactly what you are asking but here is something swim used to do reguraly and felt that it did help the purity of his end product. (Swim used ether not naptha but it works the same with any solvent) Mix the solvent you are going to use in a large bottle and add exactly the same amount of water... shake it , shake it some more.. and shake it some more. Now remove and use the solvent. You would not believe how much crap comes out into the water which would have wound up in the final product. Try it and I'm sure you will also do this from now on. Well I gotta split for now. Good luck all.. I hope this helps some. Peace !
deadheadjpc2000
deadheadjpc2000@yahoo.com
nvx..
I agree...Powdered bark is very difficult to work with....T-shirt with 'fridge decanting overnight is the best way...just be sure to let it get back to room temp before adding base...and take your time pouring off..you want to get all the liquid out, leaving the sludge behind...
AFOAF will never order powder again..Never!!
Was really looking for the lower ph part to be answered...
Straight vinegar at 2.4, or diluted at about 4..
Thankx,
Peace
I agree...Powdered bark is very difficult to work with....T-shirt with 'fridge decanting overnight is the best way...just be sure to let it get back to room temp before adding base...and take your time pouring off..you want to get all the liquid out, leaving the sludge behind...
AFOAF will never order powder again..Never!!
Was really looking for the lower ph part to be answered...
Straight vinegar at 2.4, or diluted at about 4..
Thankx,
Peace
It really doesn't matter unless you go really low with something like HCl and end up with yellow goo.
Mars actually posted an ammendment to his tek stating that plain water worked just as well since the alks were in their salt form in MHRB anyway and the bark itself makes the solution slightly acidic.
Mars actually posted an ammendment to his tek stating that plain water worked just as well since the alks were in their salt form in MHRB anyway and the bark itself makes the solution slightly acidic.
Spiceman
The Spicemeister
Hmmm swim knows a cat who always went way way low with the ph during the acid phase.... especially when performing any kind of defat. A lil crazy with the Hydrochloric but he assured me no harm was ever done and promised slightly better yeilds than a ph of 5-6 ? Not sure why but certainly seen this dude in action and he was a demon who always had top notch beautiful cystals.Here we were seeing Ph well below 2. Peace!
Hi, SWIM is thinking of doing some extraction on MHRB using marfold tek. However he does not have crockpot and 1lb of MHRB. So he wonders is it possible to use normal stainless steel pot instad? Also, how scaling would work if swim plans to use 50 grams instead.
Also, in volvin A/B extraction tek he mentioned that muriatic acid should be used. Unfortunately it is not available in my are so I wonder will it be ok to use distilled white vinegar to lower the ph to 4?
Also, in volvin A/B extraction tek he mentioned that muriatic acid should be used. Unfortunately it is not available in my are so I wonder will it be ok to use distilled white vinegar to lower the ph to 4?
Spiceman
The Spicemeister
Haplo if you are only working up 50 grams I would advise against an acid base tek here. I personally hate str8 to base teks.. but in this case I think it would be best for you to mix up a jar of lye solution ... ph about 13.5 .. throw in your bark .. stir... add some solvent (very little) roll it around for awhile.. pull the solvent and stick it in the freezer . You will probably get the best yeild this way since you are working with such a small amount . Peace !
haplo_09 said:
I prefer A/B extractions over STB, however since you are only working with 50grams of bark I have to agree with Spiceman that STB is probably the way to go.
Also, do not use steel pots with HCL (and avoid aluminum at all costs with any extraction). It will leach metals into your bark brew.
If you really want to do A/B extractions I cannot recommend crockpots enough. They are simple to work with and can be left on for hours on end without worrying about your extraction drying up or being overheated.
In straight to base tek, how scaling would work with 50g/ as one to one ratio.
Swim is worrying that long soak of bark in the basic environment will destroy alkaloids. What is the maximum safe time? Also, at what point should use A/B method 200g 400g of MHRB? Why does straight to base method is better for small amounts of MHRB? Which method will produce the cleanest crystals. SWIM tried dirty yellowish dmt before and had no effect.
added later
SWIM was just reviewing straight to base tek. It mentions that swim should evaporate naphtla. How smelly is naphtla, and how long will it take to evaporate it? say 200ml. Would it be better to just freeze precipitate?
How clean crystals should be, by using straight to base vs a-b?
Swim is worrying that long soak of bark in the basic environment will destroy alkaloids. What is the maximum safe time? Also, at what point should use A/B method 200g 400g of MHRB? Why does straight to base method is better for small amounts of MHRB? Which method will produce the cleanest crystals. SWIM tried dirty yellowish dmt before and had no effect.
added later
SWIM was just reviewing straight to base tek. It mentions that swim should evaporate naphtla. How smelly is naphtla, and how long will it take to evaporate it? say 200ml. Would it be better to just freeze precipitate?
How clean crystals should be, by using straight to base vs a-b?
Spiceman
The Spicemeister
The reason for a str8 2 base here is that since you are using such a small amount .. and because the yeild will be so small anyways .. that straight to base will most likely give you the most product. If done quickly and it doesn't sit around too long (ie days) then the product will still be fairly clean .. though most likely yellow... (no biggie) The more work and steps one adds to the proccess the more room for loss one experiences.. even tho these losses are slight .. when only working with 50 grams ... they are more substantial to an already small yeild.
I would not do an a/b unless i were working with 200 g +
Do not evap the solvent from a 50 gram pull or you will wind up with only 1 - 2(if you are lucky) doses of dirty looking goo.... Freeze precipitate it .. use less solvent than the tek calls for .. seriously man... swim doesn't think he would have 200ml of solvent after extracting 2 kilos of bark ... no bs(all teks call for too much damned solvent)
swim reccomends in theory..to mix up a jar of lye solution ph about 13- 14 .. stir in the bark .... let it sit for a couple of hours.. (if using a quart jar ---- then add about 1/4 of an inch of solvent to the top.. add a lid.. roll it slowly on the ground for about 15 minutes.. use an eyedropper to remove the solvent and put it into something small like a baby food jar ... repeat this three times.. once every three or four hours.. combine the three pulls of solvent in your small jar, cap it .. put it in the freezer .. go to bed .. when you get up ie 8-12 hours .. if you have a bunch of crystals, pour the solvent off the crystals and turn the jar upside down on a paper towel for about 20 minutes.. stand it up and let it air dry a couple of hours and there you go... it dont get any simpler than that .. unless of course I stopped using one big run on sentence lol... trust me on that .. thats how you are gonna get your best yeild.. Peace !
I would not do an a/b unless i were working with 200 g +
Do not evap the solvent from a 50 gram pull or you will wind up with only 1 - 2(if you are lucky) doses of dirty looking goo.... Freeze precipitate it .. use less solvent than the tek calls for .. seriously man... swim doesn't think he would have 200ml of solvent after extracting 2 kilos of bark ... no bs(all teks call for too much damned solvent)
swim reccomends in theory..to mix up a jar of lye solution ph about 13- 14 .. stir in the bark .... let it sit for a couple of hours.. (if using a quart jar ---- then add about 1/4 of an inch of solvent to the top.. add a lid.. roll it slowly on the ground for about 15 minutes.. use an eyedropper to remove the solvent and put it into something small like a baby food jar ... repeat this three times.. once every three or four hours.. combine the three pulls of solvent in your small jar, cap it .. put it in the freezer .. go to bed .. when you get up ie 8-12 hours .. if you have a bunch of crystals, pour the solvent off the crystals and turn the jar upside down on a paper towel for about 20 minutes.. stand it up and let it air dry a couple of hours and there you go... it dont get any simpler than that .. unless of course I stopped using one big run on sentence lol... trust me on that .. thats how you are gonna get your best yeild.. Peace !
moracca
Rising Star
OK, question: if one perhaps neglected to do a recrystallization or ammonia wash, or if perhaps it wasn't done satisfactorily, what risks would he face? also, how could you tell if that was the case? Would you see the difference? Smell it? taste it? feel it in your lungs? any help is appreciated 
SWIM was extracting MHRB using vovin's tek to the line. Unfortunately, after evaporating whole "naphta" SWIM got completely empty and clean jar full of just air. What I suspect is the used "naphta" couldn't dissolve the spice. As it seems each nation has its own "naphta" and "naphta" can mean something completely different in each country. Could anybody tell me what chemical should I use? The one that didn't work is called "extraction benzine" and it is made by water extraction of petroleum ether, which is according to wikipedia: "benzine, VM&P Naphta, Petroleum Naphta, Naptha ASTM, Petroleum Spirits, benzine, X4 or Ligroin, is a group of various volatile, highly flammable, liquid hydrocarbon mixtures used chiefly as nonpolar solvents."
Or is it possible that I killed whole spice during hot acid bath? Should I discard my base and try again? Or is there still hope?
Or is it possible that I killed whole spice during hot acid bath? Should I discard my base and try again? Or is there still hope?
