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official extraction help thread

Migrated topic.
Redoing my question. I think it is much better posting it here. It is only a simple question after all!

Will containers made from polymethylpentene be eaten away by Lye or Naphtha? Thanks.

So I am thinking ahead, and was looking at these Clear Graduated Cylinders. I have ordered from this site before, only downside so far is the shipping fee.

Clear PMP (polymethylpentene) cylinders create no concave meniscus, making the raised numeral, single scale graduations easy to read. They are shatter-proof with a wide octagonal base to prevent tipping and rolling. Superior chemical resistance and heat resistant to 177°C (350°F) make them a great value. Steam autoclavable at 121°C (250°F).


Size of 1000ml would be perfect. Whats the avg amount of ml's with Lye and naphtha together? 1000ml should be more then enough?

But the main thing I wanted to ask, is would it be eaten by the Lye/naphtha mix? I am guessing it won't, because I am 99% sure its lab grade, so it is meant for this type of stuff.

This by far would be the best thing to use to separate the naphtha layer from the Lye. Due to it being thin and all :) .

Original topic deleted
 
Hi all,

I want to do an extraction (which will be my second) but the biggest problem I'm facing is the availability of the required substances, as the DIY market is not very developed in my country.

I'd appreciate it if you could advise me on the following issue:
The only options I have for a non-polar solvent are Zippo, Colibri and Ronson lighter fluids, Primus camping naphtha - white gas with anti-corrosion additives and petroleum spirit sold at painter's supplies. Which of these would be better? Would the camping gas be a viable solution given that it contains anti-corrosion additives? (it's much cheaper than the others)

Thank you!
 
Since nobody has answered my question I'll be kind and helpful and answer it myself.

I've read on another forum that Coleman camping naphtha that has anti-rust additives makes the spice green.

What I saw at the painter's supplies would be translated word for word as "petroleum essence" and I couldn't find anything about what it is. It may be the same thing as the "petroleum ether / spirit" which is naphtha, it might come from the French "essence de petrole" which is gasoline, or it might be something else altogether. I could only find one vague reference to it that said it's the same thing as Colibri lighter fluid whereas Zippo l.f. is naphtha.

Speaking of which, has anyone used both Colibri and Zippo? Are they both as good?
 
Hello! First of all, i wanna say im very proud to be able to join this beautiful community and make my first post.

I hope the news were as good tough, but nothing close...hehe.

A friend of a friend tried to make a dmt extraction using Vovin´s Tek but the naphta is in the freezer now and nothing is visible yet (4 hours had passed since the extraction)

FOAF made some mistakes wich lead to not follow the procedure very well, heres the full story:

he used 110g of Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark (verified quality) for this batch, becouse it was his first time and didnt took a lot of care in loosing some alkaloids, just make sure he could get some spice.

300 Ml of ph 4 HCL and warm distilled water solution where added to the bark and stirred for 20 minutes, then let it sit inside a hot water bath for 10 minutes, then stirred again 10 minutes and then let sit for another 10 minutes. The final pH of the solution was 4.5-5. Then he filtered it trough cotton and funnel.
This was made 2 times and the final juice was placed into the fridge.
He made a third acidic extraction which lasted 14 hours inside a hot bath and with a little bit more acid water (3.6).

After the 14 hours, the first 2 extraction where taken out of the fridge (FIRST DOUBT OF BIG MISTAKE!, FOAF previously put his mini-fridge to the max and the 2 first extractions got frozen!!). He then let it melt again into liquid to room temperature and heated to somewhere around 45 degrees, and filtered it again this time trough paper filters.
He filtered it a couple of times until he got a burgundy-red liquid which he could see trough (with some light). he also mixed it with the 3rd extraction that took 14 hours and never got frozen...he filtered it trough cotton and then trough paper also, and then mixed to the first 2 extractions that got frozen, unfrozen and then filtered.

He then made a defating, HERES MY SECOND BIG DOUBT he used the new Zippo lighter fluid which reads in the label "Synthetic isoparaffinic hydrocarbon". He was unable to get any VMP Naptha or any other lighter fluid.
The contents separated very nicely and the solvent layer was discarded.

Then he basified the solution using a mixture of lye and warm distilled water adjusted to pH 12.5, at the begining he had 500 ml of dark purple-red liquid, at the end, he doubled the ammount of liquid to 1100 ml of ph 12 basified solution, which turned in a very dark-black color passing trough all the gray/white colors.

He then made 3 extractions each one with 70 ml of this new Zippo lighter fluid. He placed it in a bath of hot water so the solvent was warm to the touch. He added it to the extrac. He then stirred it turning it upside-down for a period of 10 minutes. Placing it under the sink with hot running water from time to time. Then he let it sit in hot water.
In just 5-10 minutes the 2 layers had become DISTINCTLY clearly separated, with a very thin line in the middle which was a little bit more gooish aspect. The solvent cleared totally and it was collected then.

6 Hours had passed since the solvent was collected and the solvent in the freezer doesnt look transparent at all, after 40 minutes in the freezer the solvent became very blurry/cludy. Im sure is the solvent that has changed becouse i already cleaned it from the outside and i can see it very cloudy, but no crystals or anything resembling DMT yet.

My friend got very very scared becouse after doing these extractions, he remembered he had stored the paper filters that had collected the slimy matter in the bottom of the jar that got frozen (the one with the firs 2 acidic extractions) and he checked them again, now they were almost dry, and instead of powder it was a red-black goo with a very crystaline layer on the top. Since hes a very curious person he smelled it and burned some down to check the smell.

SURPRISE! my friend has tried dmt a couple of times before and recognizes inmediatly this discnstinct smell like burning tire/synthetic stuff, and this thing DEFINETIVELY smells like that stuff he has tried, when burning it or just by smelling it.


He evaporated some of the solvent to see if any crystals formed, with no luck, nothing, nada.

What was wrong? is this new synthetic solvent bulls9it? Did he made a big mistake by letting the acidic extraction to freeze? Does this black goo, which he got from fridge-decanting the first 2 acidic solutions could have all the DMT inside? Whats the best way for extracting the dmt from this goo then? if its not filtering it with paper?.

Thanks a lot in advance for your time and pariente, and knowledge....he still haves all his hopes inside that solvent jar which is at -4 degrees celcius in the freezer...With very cloudy aspect.
 
RigaCrypto said:
Since nobody has answered my question I'll be kind and helpful and answer it myself.

I've read on another forum that Coleman camping naphtha that has anti-rust additives makes the spice green.

What I saw at the painter's supplies would be translated word for word as "petroleum essence" and I couldn't find anything about what it is. It may be the same thing as the "petroleum ether / spirit" which is naphtha, it might come from the French "essence de petrole" which is gasoline, or it might be something else altogether. I could only find one vague reference to it that said it's the same thing as Colibri lighter fluid whereas Zippo l.f. is naphtha.

Speaking of which, has anyone used both Colibri and Zippo? Are they both as good?

HI dude! I would've answered earlier if i'd seen your post. I live in the UK and i use ronsonol lighter fluid, which is "light naphtha". Zippo and others are fine to use, but are generally hydrotreated heavy, which basically makes evap times take forever and doesn't allow the spice to come out easily during freeze precip. Any naphtha will work tho, just some better than others. Petroleum distillate is essentially naphtha... just worded differently. I hope that helps somewhat :)

Forgot to say, you have to use new solvent each time you want to recrystallize...
 
Hello, was hoping someone could help my friend. SWIM just tried his first extraction using the Marsofold tek on 1 lb of MHRB. He believes himself to have followed the tek to the T. However his yield is VERY low. The first pull only yielded ~70 mg's, :cry:...though the crystals were bright white. The second pull was done in a baking dish rather than a jar and after freeze precip. is drying out/evapping...but yield looks similarly low. (SWIM wasn't exactly sure how to do a second pull, so he just put another 250 ml's naptha into the jug etc)

The only thing SWIM can think to have done differently was perhaps to squeeze out the goop after the first step, as he pretty much just scooped the gooey stuff right out of the crockpot and into the trash after pouring off the liquid.

At any rate, my friend really needs your help and would be very appreciative.
 
Is your friend's bark from a well known vendor, which is known to give good results? Bunk bark could be the problem. Did he/she evap the naphtha down a bit before freezing? A good test is to blow on the naphtha after pulling. If it goes cloudy then you are usually good to go. Did he/she swirl/roll the naphtha into the base mix enough to allow the DMT to get "caught" in the solvent? There are many factors which come into play when doing extractions. If you supply some more info i might be able to help a bit more :)
 
Thanks DoingKermit! But is it possible for naphtha to be too light and not absorb DMT enough? For example I've found something called Primus Powerfuel which is a mixture of light naphtha and pentane, so it's as light as it can get. Do you think it would be suitable or should I use ronsonol?
 
DoingKermit said:
Is your friend's bark from a well known vendor, which is known to give good results? Bunk bark could be the problem. Did he/she evap the naphtha down a bit before freezing? A good test is to blow on the naphtha after pulling. If it goes cloudy then you are usually good to go. Did he/she swirl/roll the naphtha into the base mix enough to allow the DMT to get "caught" in the solvent? There are many factors which come into play when doing extractions. If you supply some more info i might be able to help a bit more :)

SWIM believes the vendor to be reputable, it is powdered MHRB from "100 H***G*****" SWIM did not evap before freezing...is it beneficial to do so? SWIM only tilted the jug back and forth the first time, but shook vigorously for ~30 seconds on the second pull.

Though a puny amount was extracted, it is in fact active...*shrug*

SWIM is definitely thankful for your help. :)
 
RigaCrypto said:
Thanks DoingKermit! But is it possible for naphtha to be too light and not absorb DMT enough? For example I've found something called Primus Powerfuel which is a mixture of light naphtha and pentane, so it's as light as it can get. Do you think it would be suitable or should I use ronsonol?

Just stick to ronsonol. All ways does the trick for me. I don't think the naphtha can be too light, but scientifically, since heavy naphtha actually pulls more spice (just doesn't freeze-precip very well), and light pulls less (but is great for freeze p), it could be the case, but you would only need to do a few extra pulls with warm naphtha to get all the goods out, even if you are using lighter naphtha than the norm... if that's possible. You wouldn't get nothing out of your bark basically.

I am extremely tired, so i hope that wasn't too confusing to read :)
 
Hi vibe! Doesn't sound like you mixed the naphtha into the base mix enough. I usually roll the jar around for a minute at a time (letting rest between shakes) and i do that about 5 or 6 times within an hour. I do it just to make sure i'm getting the yummy stuff into my naphtha. If you are only rolling it once before pulling, then i suggest doing it at least 4 times before you pull it.

It can be necessary to evap before freezing to make it more concentrated allowing the crystals to fall out easily. I think if you do both those things, you should be fine. Let me know how it works out!
 
DoingKermit said:
Hi vibe! Doesn't sound like [your friend] mixed the naphtha into the base mix enough. I usually roll the jar around for a minute at a time (letting rest between shakes) and i do that about 5 or 6 times within an hour. I do it just to make sure i'm getting the yummy stuff into my naphtha. If you are only rolling it once before pulling, then i suggest doing it at least 4 times before you pull it.

It can be necessary to evap before freezing to make it more concentrated allowing the crystals to fall out easily. I think if you do both those things, you should be fine. Let me know how it works out!

Hey there, my friend tried what you recommended and got ~400mg's of fluffy purty white spice from the pull!! He's pretty excited..and wanted me to thank you.😉 :d Not sure if that's an average amount for a single pull or not, but my friend is still happy with it.

He had another question for you (or anyone else who knows/cares to answer). He's heard the term "virgin naptha" before on these forums, and from the few pulls he's done, he usually has some naptha leftover after filtering it through a coffee filter and has combined all of the leftover naptha into a 1-quart jar. Is it okay to do a pull with this naptha, or should he just buy some more?
 
Hello.

SWIM is doing it's first (STB-)extraction with MHRB and would like to know does naptha, hydrotreated heavy (CAS #64742-48-2) do it's job? A FOAF suggested doing waterbath (= Mix couple dl of warm water with the naptha, mix well, let them separate and then get the water out and use the naptha for the project) for the naptha SWIM could get. If SWIM has understand everything this heavily hydrotreated naptha takes ages (if using fan SWIM assumes the time drops) when evaporating as SWIM can't use freezer.

Hope you understood the text and thanks! :)
 
Yes it does. Heavy naphtha pulls more spice from the bark than the light one, but can't be precipitated. Since you are going to evaporate anyway it will do fine. It can take a while to evaporate, so you'll need patience.
 
How do i make a gram?
I don't have big enough jars, and according to Nomans guide i should use 1.5, 2X the water normally used when working with pre powdered rootbark, so i don't know how to do a big extraction...

What do you guys do?
 
Spiced said:
How do i make a gram?
I don't have big enough jars, and according to Nomans guide i should use 1.5, 2X the water normally used when working with pre powdered rootbark, so i don't know how to do a big extraction...

What do you guys do?

Unfortunately, no matter what extraction method used, you will likely end up using 10+ml of solvent per gram of material. And then you need the appropriate containers to handle said solvent.

There are two ways to minimize this:

Do an A/B. Separate the acid washing step into several smaller washes (probably no more than 500g powder at once), and evaporate the washes as you go along. Unfortunately this entails reducing several gallons of water to at most a couple liters. This will take a LONG time and depending on which acids you use, may make your house reek of the acid you're using.

If you can buy a few 12-packs of mason jars, the FASA method seems like one that "scales up" well as there are no polar/non-polar exchanges and thus increasing volumes doesn't increase the effort as much.

Seriously though, the more plant matter you try to process at once, the lower your yields will be. It's best to hold off on doing large batches until you have done MANY smaller batches. Once you're dialed in some good yields on smaller experiments, you can carry those skills to minimize your losses on the larger batches.
 
Dreamers who have never bothered to reduce their strained ayawaska down to a couple of shot glasses size until now might be wondering about all the stuff that sticks to the bottom and sides of the pan upon reduction from 3L to 7cl. Should this stuff be scraped off and drunk, or does it not contain any active chemicals? Thanks :)
 
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