psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
So I am thinking ahead, and was looking at these Clear Graduated Cylinders. I have ordered from this site before, only downside so far is the shipping fee.
Clear PMP (polymethylpentene) cylinders create no concave meniscus, making the raised numeral, single scale graduations easy to read. They are shatter-proof with a wide octagonal base to prevent tipping and rolling. Superior chemical resistance and heat resistant to 177°C (350°F) make them a great value. Steam autoclavable at 121°C (250°F).
Size of 1000ml would be perfect. Whats the avg amount of ml's with Lye and naphtha together? 1000ml should be more then enough?
But the main thing I wanted to ask, is would it be eaten by the Lye/naphtha mix? I am guessing it won't, because I am 99% sure its lab grade, so it is meant for this type of stuff.
This by far would be the best thing to use to separate the naphtha layer from the Lye. Due to it being thin and all.
RigaCrypto said:Since nobody has answered my question I'll be kind and helpful and answer it myself.
I've read on another forum that Coleman camping naphtha that has anti-rust additives makes the spice green.
What I saw at the painter's supplies would be translated word for word as "petroleum essence" and I couldn't find anything about what it is. It may be the same thing as the "petroleum ether / spirit" which is naphtha, it might come from the French "essence de petrole" which is gasoline, or it might be something else altogether. I could only find one vague reference to it that said it's the same thing as Colibri lighter fluid whereas Zippo l.f. is naphtha.
Speaking of which, has anyone used both Colibri and Zippo? Are they both as good?
DoingKermit said:Is your friend's bark from a well known vendor, which is known to give good results? Bunk bark could be the problem. Did he/she evap the naphtha down a bit before freezing? A good test is to blow on the naphtha after pulling. If it goes cloudy then you are usually good to go. Did he/she swirl/roll the naphtha into the base mix enough to allow the DMT to get "caught" in the solvent? There are many factors which come into play when doing extractions. If you supply some more info i might be able to help a bit more![]()
RigaCrypto said:Thanks DoingKermit! But is it possible for naphtha to be too light and not absorb DMT enough? For example I've found something called Primus Powerfuel which is a mixture of light naphtha and pentane, so it's as light as it can get. Do you think it would be suitable or should I use ronsonol?
DoingKermit said:Hi vibe! Doesn't sound like [your friend] mixed the naphtha into the base mix enough. I usually roll the jar around for a minute at a time (letting rest between shakes) and i do that about 5 or 6 times within an hour. I do it just to make sure i'm getting the yummy stuff into my naphtha. If you are only rolling it once before pulling, then i suggest doing it at least 4 times before you pull it.
It can be necessary to evap before freezing to make it more concentrated allowing the crystals to fall out easily. I think if you do both those things, you should be fine. Let me know how it works out!
:d Not sure if that's an average amount for a single pull or not, but my friend is still happy with it.Spiced said:How do i make a gram?
I don't have big enough jars, and according to Nomans guide i should use 1.5, 2X the water normally used when working with pre powdered rootbark, so i don't know how to do a big extraction...
What do you guys do?