psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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After you have strained your Ayahuasca, you will still have minor particulate matter in your brew. When you reduce the volume from liters to the quantity you're going to drink, this particulate matter will still be present and in a greater proportion (you've boiled off water while the sediment remains). This sediment should be consumed with (and considered to be part of) the brew.
If you do a SERIOUS straining (perhaps with science filters, though several coffee filters may do) and then let the tea sit overnight in the fridge and then CAREFULLY pour it off without disturbing the sediment at the bottom of your container. You should have eliminated almost all of the particulate matter, without losing very much dmt.
Then you're free to reduce the solution and swig away.
IMO thought, it's better NOT to do this. Eat the gunk, it's a part of the experience, and I'm sure that whatever non-dmt components are left in the sludge contribute to the experience.
Then you're free to reduce the solution and swig away.
IMO thought, it's better NOT to do this. Eat the gunk, it's a part of the experience, and I'm sure that whatever non-dmt components are left in the sludge contribute to the experience.
RigaCrypto said:
SWIM has the same problem!
SWIM has done his first extraction today with several containers and has produced spice from one container that is slightly green. He used a different lighter fluid in the other containers and they have produced a dark yellow/orange result.
SWIM thinks that the yellow/orange spice can be explained by too much heating. He would like to know if it is ok to smoke even if it has a dark yellow color. Or could somebody point him to threads that give advice on how to clean out the mess?
What about the greenish spice? Is it possible that he used lighter fluid with additives? Does someone have advice for which naphta to buy that is available in Germany?
Somking the greenish stuff is probably not a good idea, is it?
SWIM would be happy if you could help him through his learning stage.
wow, no way in hell SWIM would ever ever smoke green dmt, yuck.. The general way to clean spice is recrystalization but considering that the aditives were dissolved in a similar solvent in the first place, I dont know how much of it will be cleaned and how much will remain in your final product even after successive re-x...
thats why its always recommended to first make an evap test with whatever solvent you plan on using.
I've heard in germany naphtha is called Waschbenzin, but im not 100% sure.. Check all sorts of hardware stores in the solvent/paint section, read labels, check internet if there is more detailed info on the specific brands you can find.. Also in bigger cities in general its easier to find some laboratory/chemical supply stores..
I would say forget these fuel naphthas, since they are for fuel, they can add tons of stuff and not specify on the labels too much because they dont expect people to use for products they will smoke/consume. try to find the real deal..
good luck
thats why its always recommended to first make an evap test with whatever solvent you plan on using.
I've heard in germany naphtha is called Waschbenzin, but im not 100% sure.. Check all sorts of hardware stores in the solvent/paint section, read labels, check internet if there is more detailed info on the specific brands you can find.. Also in bigger cities in general its easier to find some laboratory/chemical supply stores..
I would say forget these fuel naphthas, since they are for fuel, they can add tons of stuff and not specify on the labels too much because they dont expect people to use for products they will smoke/consume. try to find the real deal..
good luck
Touche Guevara
Rising Star
Crazy Blue Cyrstals? - solvent problems? - A/B - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus might be of some interest to you. Guy gets blue crystals from accidentally using Coleman, and recrystalizes a few times to remove impurities.
omalley1015
Rising Star
Hello everyone. this is my first post here and i have some specific questions on a/b extractions. I have experienced DMT a few time and find it quite rewarding. i seem to have found some spiritual meaning in my with with its aid. I am interested in a very pure product and would love to be able to post on this entire site. but that is just about me and my want to be a full member here are my questions.
1. What would be the perfect pH level for the initial acidic solution that MHRB is soaked in?
I know its between pH 2-4 but whats perfect for purity. I have a digital pH reader.
2. For how long should MHRB be soaked in this acidic solution?
It would be soaked and filtered about three times. the first should be 1-24 hours. but which? and the second and third time for more like to days. is this overkill?
3. After the acidic solution is filtered from the MHRB, to reduce it to a more workable volume should it be gently baked or evaporated?
Is this even necessary?
4. What would be the perfect pH level for the basic solution that will be added to the acidic solution. And with that basic solution what would be the perfect pH level to bring the acidic solution to?
This question was hard to articulate. please indicate if it is confusing.
5. If using naphtha for your non-polar solvent, how many ml should be used for each (pull) extraction? And should each (pull) of naphtha be kept separate for freeze precipitation?
6. How much sodium carbonate and distilled water should be added together to wash naphtha of sodium hydroxide?
7. How would someone super-saturate or completely saturate naphtha for freeze precipitation? Should it be gently baked or semi-evaporated?
8. What temperature is needed for DMT to become completely insoluble in naphtha? How slowly should the temperature be dropped as naphtha is froze?
I know these are very specific but but they are my questions. please be as specific as possible in your reply.
Thanks.
1. What would be the perfect pH level for the initial acidic solution that MHRB is soaked in?
I know its between pH 2-4 but whats perfect for purity. I have a digital pH reader.
2. For how long should MHRB be soaked in this acidic solution?
It would be soaked and filtered about three times. the first should be 1-24 hours. but which? and the second and third time for more like to days. is this overkill?
3. After the acidic solution is filtered from the MHRB, to reduce it to a more workable volume should it be gently baked or evaporated?
Is this even necessary?
4. What would be the perfect pH level for the basic solution that will be added to the acidic solution. And with that basic solution what would be the perfect pH level to bring the acidic solution to?
This question was hard to articulate. please indicate if it is confusing.
5. If using naphtha for your non-polar solvent, how many ml should be used for each (pull) extraction? And should each (pull) of naphtha be kept separate for freeze precipitation?
6. How much sodium carbonate and distilled water should be added together to wash naphtha of sodium hydroxide?
7. How would someone super-saturate or completely saturate naphtha for freeze precipitation? Should it be gently baked or semi-evaporated?
8. What temperature is needed for DMT to become completely insoluble in naphtha? How slowly should the temperature be dropped as naphtha is froze?
I know these are very specific but but they are my questions. please be as specific as possible in your reply.
Thanks.
omalley1015 said:
I believe just a pinch or small amount of sodium carbonate in your water, for your first wash (pH ~8.5), then just use distilled water on it's own for the other washes (at a scale of around 25 ml sodium carbonated water to 300 ml of naphtha or the equivalent ratio to your particular specifications). I must point out however, that this is what I have found during my own research, and does not come from experience. Though I'm sure the nexus is full of people and information that will help with all your queries.
If you check, if you have not already, the DMT-Nexus Wiki area, this is full of information to help. You can find a range of things discussed here.
Ayawasqero
Esteemed member
Mr_DMT said:
Or maybe he ought to try to find natural resources of DMT in his area, that´s also good advice. Much cheaper!
omalley1015 said:
It doesnt matter, it will make very little difference... if you're obsessed with purity, when you get your final product, just recrystalize it.. its easy, fun, and definitely waaaaay more effective than some change in pH in the acid step.
omalley1015 said:
it also doesnt matter much, most of the alkaloids will come out in the first minutes anyways.. simmer/boil (on low fire) for 1 or 2 hours x 4 seems to get basically everything out.
omalley1015 said:
It helps when one doesnt have such a big container to make the mixing with the solvent in the later step, but its not essential.
omalley1015 said:
It doesnt matter much... you have to understand the process, not worry about numbers.. The final pH should be 10 or more, because at this point like 99.9% of the DMT is freebase, making it insoluble in the water but soluble in non polar solvent.. If pH is higher it wont hurt in any way (will maybe even help reducing risk of emulsions, but they are not as common in A/Bs than in STBs anyways), but if the pH is lower then some dmt might not have converted into freebase, so better aim for 10+...
omalley1015 said:
SWIM usually uses 50ml naphtha per 100g bark and makes 5 pulls. Pulls dont HAVE to be kept separate but what if they are all together and you fall down spilling everything, or whatever? Better not put all your 'eggs in one basket', right? Also the first pulls usually are whiter/cleaner and last pulls usually more yellow, so if you dont mind them getting mixed up (like if you going to recrystalize later on anyways or whatever), then its ok to mix.. Or go mid-way and dont mix all, but more like, mix pulls 1+2, pulls 3+4 and pulls 5+6, so this way you dont have so many little containers, but you still have them reasonably separate by quality and also if something happens wrong you still dont lose everything at once.
omalley1015 said:
Doesnt matter, a pinch is enough.. I would say pH 8.5 is minimum, better make it 9 or 10 to make sure all your dmt will remain as freebase.
omalley1015 said:
No heat, evaporate the naphtha a little bit.. if you are doing 50ml per 100g bark warm pulls, then it can work to go straight to freezer without pre-evap (but there might be still some dmt in the naphtha after, so reuse the naphtha or evaporate it all to yield any left-overs after yielding the crystals from freeze precip)..
omalley1015 said:
Just have your freezer at coldest setting, your naphtha saturated and thats it... The temperature drop doesnt make any difference in ammount of crystals, it only makes a difference in size of each crystal (but total yield will be the same).. Dont worry about this for now, this is more aesthetics, just put in coldest freezer and thats it.
Hey, SWIM has a couple questions about Nomans process. They have read it quite a few times and don't really understand it. They have also read the forums and could not find anything except something they weren't clear on. Their issue lies in the recrystallization process.
Swim's question is "Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag." Does this mean use a coffee filter with ammonia?
Is ammonia used at all after recrystallization? SWIM read somewhere that it's safe without the ammonia, is this true?
SWIM thanks you for a response and appolgizes if it is a noob question.
Swim's question is "Filter the solvent and separate the crystals from the slag." Does this mean use a coffee filter with ammonia?
Is ammonia used at all after recrystallization? SWIM read somewhere that it's safe without the ammonia, is this true?
SWIM thanks you for a response and appolgizes if it is a noob question.
forget ammonia! You dont need that.. for recrystalization just redissolve your impure crystals in a small container with minimum amount of warm (40-60 celcius) naphtha/heptane/hexane (like, say, 30ml per 1g impure stuff). On the bottom will stay some oily dark gunk, and there will be a clearer layer of solvent on top.. just pippette it off into a new container, and put into the freezer (gunk can be thrown away)
algorithmic
Rising Star
SWIM did a mescaline extraction on trichocereus bridgesii obtained from a reputable vendor following 69ron's d-limonene extraction technique. SWIM followed this technique nigh to the letter and everything looked good. SWIM dried using a fan and crystals very similar to those of the images in the wiki article appeared. However, SWIM found 220mg of these waxy and amber crystals to be entirely inactive when taken with coffee.
SWIM thought the one mistake SWIM may have made was not squeezing any amount of d-limonene from the cactus mixture for any pulls until the last (which no one has yet sampled.) For this last pull SWIM used a cotton shirt to squeeze the cactus mixture (mostly) dry and what appeared to be calcium hydroxide came out after the d-limonene and sunk the bottom of the d-limonene. SWIM, unsure if this was bad or good (and having used food-grade sodium carbonate) left it in the mixture when adding vinegar. This resulted in cloudy vinegar. SWIM now has this pull drying.
SWIM's questions are:
1. How reliable are crystals, like those featured in the wiki article, as a sign of a successful extraction?
2. Why might the product of the first two pulls have been inactive?
3. Is the d-limonene supposed to end up merely tinted (slightly cactus coloured,) or also cloudy?
4. Should the vinegar be tinted or cloudy?
5. Was what came out from the shirt squeezing the calcium hydroxide?
SWIM knows this may all be caused by inactive cactus, but wishes to rule out other possibilities first.
Many questions, but SWIM would be very thankful for answers to even a few.
Update: SWIM finished drying the final pull. The earliers are clearly darker and of a more waxy consistency. The final is lighter, a bit sparkly, and more "dry powdery"-like.
Update, Update: The final material also seems inactive. Guess SWIM just got inactive cactus. Answers to questions 1, 3 and 4 would be very appreciated still, though.
SWIM thought the one mistake SWIM may have made was not squeezing any amount of d-limonene from the cactus mixture for any pulls until the last (which no one has yet sampled.) For this last pull SWIM used a cotton shirt to squeeze the cactus mixture (mostly) dry and what appeared to be calcium hydroxide came out after the d-limonene and sunk the bottom of the d-limonene. SWIM, unsure if this was bad or good (and having used food-grade sodium carbonate) left it in the mixture when adding vinegar. This resulted in cloudy vinegar. SWIM now has this pull drying.
SWIM's questions are:
1. How reliable are crystals, like those featured in the wiki article, as a sign of a successful extraction?
2. Why might the product of the first two pulls have been inactive?
3. Is the d-limonene supposed to end up merely tinted (slightly cactus coloured,) or also cloudy?
4. Should the vinegar be tinted or cloudy?
5. Was what came out from the shirt squeezing the calcium hydroxide?
SWIM knows this may all be caused by inactive cactus, but wishes to rule out other possibilities first.
Many questions, but SWIM would be very thankful for answers to even a few.
Update: SWIM finished drying the final pull. The earliers are clearly darker and of a more waxy consistency. The final is lighter, a bit sparkly, and more "dry powdery"-like.
Update, Update: The final material also seems inactive. Guess SWIM just got inactive cactus. Answers to questions 1, 3 and 4 would be very appreciated still, though.
Swim is doing a simple STB extract with Naptha and Lye. Swim accidentally added the naptha before Swim left the lye mixture soak. Is this bad or can Swim just wait an hour that Swim normally would then the extra half hour that the naptha would take and go from there? Is there some problem that will come of this?
Madcap
illudium Q-36
for algorithmic
the limonene will be clear but tinted before you add any vinegar. once the vinegar is in there it becomes more opaque (maybe from vinegar droplets disbursed throughout the limonene)
The vinegar will collect at the bottom and be clear again, slightly tinted.
Crystals are good. Non-crystals can still scrape up into something good. If you kept it all food-grade it can't hurt to try it out, right?
Also.... consider a cheap french press coffee pot. Pour your limonene through a coffee filter before adding vinegar. The T-shirt just adds some variables (dye, detergent residue, etc)
the limonene will be clear but tinted before you add any vinegar. once the vinegar is in there it becomes more opaque (maybe from vinegar droplets disbursed throughout the limonene)
The vinegar will collect at the bottom and be clear again, slightly tinted.
Crystals are good. Non-crystals can still scrape up into something good. If you kept it all food-grade it can't hurt to try it out, right?
Also.... consider a cheap french press coffee pot. Pour your limonene through a coffee filter before adding vinegar. The T-shirt just adds some variables (dye, detergent residue, etc)
