psilocybin
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Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
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But what did you do exactly when you say ¨converted with a saturated sodium carb solution¨ ? Did you mix it, did it become cloudy? Did you put it in the fridge for a couple of days to let the dmt crystallize? Thats what should have happened, and then you only needed to filter the precipitated dmt, no need to evap anything
how and what did you slowly evaporate?
how and what did you slowly evaporate?
Hello Everyone! I need A little help with my mescaline extraction. I am using 69ron's food safe extraction. The amount of powdered cactus is 114gs. I am in the middle of the extract and am stuck on what to do next. Here is the situation:
In the beginning of my extraction I was not paying attention to detail and added the d-limenone to the powder before adding the water. I then added a little more than 300ml of water and it turned my mixture into some kind of hard gelatin. I Added more water, maybe 200ml more, and put it in my blender but the consistency was almost the same. I thought there might be too much water in there so I added 200ml more of the d-limenone and blended. It was still super thick so I decided to add even more water until it had the consistency of a thick yogurt. I don't remember how much more water I added but I'm guessing 300-500 ml more, bringing the total water to 800-1000ml and the d-limonene to 500ml.
After sitting for a day there was no separation at all. I tried putting it through a French press but the particle size was too small for the press to do any filtering. I figured that because of the added water and d-limo that the basification was diluted so I added and mixed in about 40g more calcium hydroxide in addition to the already 29g that was already in there. I have let it sit and there is still no separation. I was reading around and someone said to add more d-limo in this type of situation because it will pull the stuck d-limo out of the emulsion. I also read to add soda wash to it and it will convert some of the calcium hydroxide to lye and help separate the d-limo. I have 500ml of d-limo left.
If I add more d-limo and it still does not separate can I add the vinegar to the whole thing and decant the vinegar layer with a turkey baster or syringe? And also as a related question If I have a lot of vinegar can I boil it down or at least heat it up a bit via double boiling without destroying the mescaline? I know people boil cactus tea. Thanks Everyone for reading. I have been wanting pure mescaline for some time now and don't want this to be a waste! This is a great forum and I look forward to participation in this community.
In the beginning of my extraction I was not paying attention to detail and added the d-limenone to the powder before adding the water. I then added a little more than 300ml of water and it turned my mixture into some kind of hard gelatin. I Added more water, maybe 200ml more, and put it in my blender but the consistency was almost the same. I thought there might be too much water in there so I added 200ml more of the d-limenone and blended. It was still super thick so I decided to add even more water until it had the consistency of a thick yogurt. I don't remember how much more water I added but I'm guessing 300-500 ml more, bringing the total water to 800-1000ml and the d-limonene to 500ml.
After sitting for a day there was no separation at all. I tried putting it through a French press but the particle size was too small for the press to do any filtering. I figured that because of the added water and d-limo that the basification was diluted so I added and mixed in about 40g more calcium hydroxide in addition to the already 29g that was already in there. I have let it sit and there is still no separation. I was reading around and someone said to add more d-limo in this type of situation because it will pull the stuck d-limo out of the emulsion. I also read to add soda wash to it and it will convert some of the calcium hydroxide to lye and help separate the d-limo. I have 500ml of d-limo left.
If I add more d-limo and it still does not separate can I add the vinegar to the whole thing and decant the vinegar layer with a turkey baster or syringe? And also as a related question If I have a lot of vinegar can I boil it down or at least heat it up a bit via double boiling without destroying the mescaline? I know people boil cactus tea. Thanks Everyone for reading. I have been wanting pure mescaline for some time now and don't want this to be a waste! This is a great forum and I look forward to participation in this community.
SourceDirect
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Hi everyone!
My friend had his second attempt at an extraction from about 1.5kg's of acacia acuminata bark. The first attempt was not very successful with very yellow sticky powder being the outcome and only about 500 mg's of it from about 2kg's of bark!
This time my friend tried everything very carefully but ended up realising what the problem was half way through.
My friend is using the DMT handbook extraction tek. He got to the siphoning part which is the part where he had trouble before.
In the tek the person who made the tek shows how much shellite he got out of the siphoning which looked to be about 1L after using about 1 L of shellite.
My friends problem is that he is only getting very small amounts of the shellite separating from the solution after shaking it and as such only resulted in getting about 100ml of shellite out of the siphoning. His thinking is that maybe there is some solids (powdered bark residue) stuck in the solution since the filtering method used before boiling the bark tea into 2 L is not very good and also the bark was made into literally a power finer then sand.
He is thinking that the powder got through the filtering method and into the product he is trying to siphon and it takes about 30 minutes for the shellite to properly separate. Whereas the guide says 5 minutes for waiting for the layers to separate, after 5 minutes only about 20% of the correct amount of shellite has separated.
So he has done 3 pulls with shellite resulting in a small 200ml so he did one more and waited for 1 hour giving about another 200 ml. Another problem is there seems to be black stuff sticking to the inside of the container he is trying to siphon which actually blocks the view of the shellite which means he has to guess when the siphon has sucked all the black liquid out and just pull it out at random, could this be the black solid material that is causing the shellite difficulty in separating?
Now that he knows the problem he still has the solution which probably has more DMT in it but because it has now become room temperature is it completely useless? Or is he able to filter it properly, warm it up, and do a couple more pulls with some more shellite?
Also if I the tek used 2kg's of bark and did 3 acid cooks and then boiled the bark tea down into 2 L's should my friend who used 1.5kg's of bark just boil down the tea into 1.5L's? Should the shellite be downgraded also?
Sorry for some many questions, obviously my friend is new to this.
Also can anyone recommend the best filtering cloth? All my friend has been able to find is cheese cloth which is obviously not working.
My friend had his second attempt at an extraction from about 1.5kg's of acacia acuminata bark. The first attempt was not very successful with very yellow sticky powder being the outcome and only about 500 mg's of it from about 2kg's of bark!
This time my friend tried everything very carefully but ended up realising what the problem was half way through.
My friend is using the DMT handbook extraction tek. He got to the siphoning part which is the part where he had trouble before.
In the tek the person who made the tek shows how much shellite he got out of the siphoning which looked to be about 1L after using about 1 L of shellite.
My friends problem is that he is only getting very small amounts of the shellite separating from the solution after shaking it and as such only resulted in getting about 100ml of shellite out of the siphoning. His thinking is that maybe there is some solids (powdered bark residue) stuck in the solution since the filtering method used before boiling the bark tea into 2 L is not very good and also the bark was made into literally a power finer then sand.
He is thinking that the powder got through the filtering method and into the product he is trying to siphon and it takes about 30 minutes for the shellite to properly separate. Whereas the guide says 5 minutes for waiting for the layers to separate, after 5 minutes only about 20% of the correct amount of shellite has separated.
So he has done 3 pulls with shellite resulting in a small 200ml so he did one more and waited for 1 hour giving about another 200 ml. Another problem is there seems to be black stuff sticking to the inside of the container he is trying to siphon which actually blocks the view of the shellite which means he has to guess when the siphon has sucked all the black liquid out and just pull it out at random, could this be the black solid material that is causing the shellite difficulty in separating?
Now that he knows the problem he still has the solution which probably has more DMT in it but because it has now become room temperature is it completely useless? Or is he able to filter it properly, warm it up, and do a couple more pulls with some more shellite?
Also if I the tek used 2kg's of bark and did 3 acid cooks and then boiled the bark tea down into 2 L's should my friend who used 1.5kg's of bark just boil down the tea into 1.5L's? Should the shellite be downgraded also?
Sorry for some many questions, obviously my friend is new to this.
Also can anyone recommend the best filtering cloth? All my friend has been able to find is cheese cloth which is obviously not working.
- Merits
- 112
FAQ: Layers wont separate
Dont shake next time
Black material is just the basic layer that is stuck to the walls. If you run a little water on the walls it should wash it away, but when you mix layers again it will be there (and it will slowly fill up your container, maybe it doesnt fit too much more liquid?). Another option to separate is to first separate crudely the top layer+bottom layer to another thin/tall container, and then re-separate.
Yeah you can reduce everything proportionally.
For filtering, it should be done on plant material BEFORE adding the base.. Anyways you can first decant or strain with a thick-hole metal strainer.. Then filter again with an old t-shirt. Then you can filter with funnel+cotton plug. Or similar, the idea is to do it gradually.
Dont shake next time
Black material is just the basic layer that is stuck to the walls. If you run a little water on the walls it should wash it away, but when you mix layers again it will be there (and it will slowly fill up your container, maybe it doesnt fit too much more liquid?). Another option to separate is to first separate crudely the top layer+bottom layer to another thin/tall container, and then re-separate.
Yeah you can reduce everything proportionally.
For filtering, it should be done on plant material BEFORE adding the base.. Anyways you can first decant or strain with a thick-hole metal strainer.. Then filter again with an old t-shirt. Then you can filter with funnel+cotton plug. Or similar, the idea is to do it gradually.
xylophonix
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
Hi.
Why should one use double boiler for the hempseedoil infusion?
Isn't double boiler the one that is used for steaming foods?
Normal pan is not fine?
Sorry if the qustion sounds stupid. I think this is just language barrier thing.
Another quastion about BLAB-
Does the water have to be near boiling temperature when converting fumarate to fb, or is it warm enough when the fumarate dissolves?
I only found "crystal soda for cleaning" which is sodium carbonate. It's big crystal chunks. Is this okay to use?
Thank's & peace
Why should one use double boiler for the hempseedoil infusion?
Isn't double boiler the one that is used for steaming foods?
Normal pan is not fine?
Sorry if the qustion sounds stupid. I think this is just language barrier thing.
Another quastion about BLAB-
Does the water have to be near boiling temperature when converting fumarate to fb, or is it warm enough when the fumarate dissolves?
I only found "crystal soda for cleaning" which is sodium carbonate. It's big crystal chunks. Is this okay to use?
Thank's & peace
Hello i am fairly new to asking questions here,
but i have been around since may or something.
I am using nomans tek ( only i make more pulls with less naphta 0.7ml/gr MHRB )
freeze precip works like a charm, but when i dry the xtals they become oily again.
I also tried immediate RE-X in aceton and that gave me an oily mess too
could it be due to old bark being used ( +- 1 year old )?
Storage in dark place at room temp.
I have around 400gr left and dont want to waste this too,
so can someone help me around to solve this problem?
I tried doing a drytek with CAOH, the fasa tek with citric acid and none came out nice
but i have been around since may or something.
I am using nomans tek ( only i make more pulls with less naphta 0.7ml/gr MHRB )
freeze precip works like a charm, but when i dry the xtals they become oily again.
I also tried immediate RE-X in aceton and that gave me an oily mess too
could it be due to old bark being used ( +- 1 year old )?
Storage in dark place at room temp.
I have around 400gr left and dont want to waste this too,
so can someone help me around to solve this problem?
I tried doing a drytek with CAOH, the fasa tek with citric acid and none came out nice
venom said:Hello i am fairly new to asking questions here,
but i have been around since may or something.
I am using nomans tek ( only i make more pulls with less naphta 0.7ml/gr MHRB )
freeze precip works like a charm, but when i dry the xtals they become oily again.
I also tried immediate RE-X in aceton and that gave me an oily mess too
could it be due to old bark being used ( +- 1 year old )?
Storage in dark place at room temp.
I have around 400gr left and dont want to waste this too,
so can someone help me around to solve this problem?
I tried doing a drytek with CAOH, the fasa tek with citric acid and none came out nice
ok i will answer myself
the yield is less than should be, still decent tho and i guess thats because of the old bark ( n-oxide formation )
the sticky oil i have after freeze precip is solved by multiple Re-X and let it dry decent,
simply me being too impatient!
yummymushrooms
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
hey so my buddy is just wrapping up a very successful first STB extraction and was wondering if there is any reason not to begin his next batch from the remains of the previous one (which still hasn't stopped giving yield). he said he was thinking he would basically just measure the pH of his current NAOH/MHRB/H2O solution with a piece of litmus paper, add another pile of rootbark and some water, and then add as much NaOH as is necessary to return the pH to its previous level and continue with the new batch. what are people's thoughts? should i tell him to just make some jungle spice and start a fresh new batch, or can he combine them and then make the jungle spice at the end?
p.s. sorry if this should have been posted under a different topic or something
p.s. sorry if this should have been posted under a different topic or something
- Merits
- 112
One possible reason I can think of is that your old extraction will have a higher ratio of plant oils to alkaloids (and specially having been long in a basified solution, which will be further liberating all sorts of impurities to the solution), so if you pull from both mixed, you might have more impurities that can both make your yield more impure, as well as needing more pulls for same yield (because as the solvent gets more saturated with impurities, it will most likely pull less alkaloids)
Hi guys...one more please for ...you know an other new guy...I was reading the Q21Q21 tek2. Everything fine. Now I know I'm gonna make it. Except for the multiple pulls. End of pull one and it goes in the freezer. Supose I do a second pull with a new batch of naphtha where should I pour it? In the old precipitation container or a new one and join at the end? Should I use a new batch of naptha (1ml per 1gr of bark) for every pull? I can't underastand how can naphtha seem clear and colorless after stiring the bark-goo. If I pour through a coffee filter will the DMT be filtered or it will pass through the filter and into the precipitation container?
Ryder on the Storm
Rising Star
- Merits
- 42
First time extractor here. Correct me if this is wrong.
Did STB, 40g MHRB, pulled naptha into 3 petri dishes. Evap'd ~50% naptha (about a day in non air moving room) before putting in fridge, then freezer.
Looked at the dishes today, there are some white crystals but also some gooey yellow liquid next to it. I would post pictures but dont think I am able to. Should I remove this yellowy glob from the white crystals?
Thanks again.
Did STB, 40g MHRB, pulled naptha into 3 petri dishes. Evap'd ~50% naptha (about a day in non air moving room) before putting in fridge, then freezer.
Looked at the dishes today, there are some white crystals but also some gooey yellow liquid next to it. I would post pictures but dont think I am able to. Should I remove this yellowy glob from the white crystals?
Thanks again.
- Merits
- 42
Ryder on the Storm said:
At the bottom of your posting window is an "attach files to this post" click box to attach pics. Evapping 50 % of the naptha and placing in the fridge is unnecessary, but helps grow larger crystals if that is your aim. The yellow goo is OK - fairly normal, though a perfect white crystal precip is always an aesthetic treat! The gooey part may be from water that condensated after taking out of the freezer. A technique for avoiding or limiting this is to pour the naptha off and turn upside down to dry (with enough space under for air circulation.) A light indirect electric fan can also help once your container is properly placed.
For now, just wait until the rest evaps. You can also do a re-x on it with heptane or naptha (check the wiki for the simple tek)
Hope this helps!!
JBArk
- Merits
- 42
ckld said:
I use new naptha and combine pulls 1-4 in the same container and freeze precip. Then I do a 5th pull and freeze precip to see how much is left. Thusfar, I have never had enough precip out from a 5th pull to warrant a 6th.
The DMT molecules WILL pass through a coffee filter if suspended in the naptha (pre-freeze precip), but why would you want to filter at this stage? It is unnecessary, and the loss of naptha (absorbed in the filter) WILL result in a small loss of spice. If you are refering to after the freeze precip - i use a coffee filter to catch stray "floaties" that have not adhered to the surface of my pyrex dish.
Hope this helps!!
JBArk
If you use same quantity of naphtha in every pull that mean's that you end up with 500ml of naptha-DMT solution for 100gr of MHRB ready to get into the freezer (seems bit too much too me.Is it?).
I was confused about the coffee filter because of: How can the naphtha solution look so clean when poured in the precipitation container after stirring with the whole mixture of rout bark, vinegar and lime? Sorry but I can't imagine gettinig clean crystals out of this mess. Do you let the mixture precipitate for a while after stirring or what?
I was confused about the coffee filter because of: How can the naphtha solution look so clean when poured in the precipitation container after stirring with the whole mixture of rout bark, vinegar and lime? Sorry but I can't imagine gettinig clean crystals out of this mess. Do you let the mixture precipitate for a while after stirring or what?
- Merits
- 112
because most of the "mess" is polar (that is, will stay in the mimosa/water slurry, and NOT be dissolved by the naphtha and therefore not go to the top layer ). You dont need to "let the mixture precipitate", you just need to let it stand long enough for the solvent to go to the top of the mixture. Ideally do a few cycles of mix/let stand per pull.
Yeah, 500ml for 100gr seems maybe too much to freeze. It could be you still get your crystals but maybe some wont precipitate. Better evap to half the amount and freeze (or if you freeze the full amount, after harvesting the crystals, evap till small amount and freeze again)
Yeah, 500ml for 100gr seems maybe too much to freeze. It could be you still get your crystals but maybe some wont precipitate. Better evap to half the amount and freeze (or if you freeze the full amount, after harvesting the crystals, evap till small amount and freeze again)
