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official extraction help thread

Migrated topic.
How does it melt away? Does it turn into a goo and any crystals that form are absorbed into the goo, or does it just turn into liquid at room temp. If the latter is true then your crystals could have water frozen in them, in which case just let it dry a little more. Another thing that might be is that there is naptha on it still and at a high enough temp can absorb some dmt before crystalizing it by drying it off after a freeze. If this is the case, you do the same thing as before.. Just let it dry a bit longer. If the former is true then you could defat to remove some oils so its not a goo. Your dish can't ever really be too deep. That shouldn't effect the crystals "melting" unless it was one of the conditions I just described. You can use a very thin long jar and freeze in that and it will form crystals just fine.
 
Du57mi73 said:
How does it melt away? Does it turn into a goo and any crystals that form are absorbed into the goo, or does it just turn into liquid at room temp. If the latter is true then your crystals could have water frozen in them, in which case just let it dry a little more. Another thing that might be is that there is naptha on it still and at a high enough temp can absorb some dmt before crystalizing it by drying it off after a freeze. If this is the case, you do the same thing as before.. Just let it dry a bit longer. If the former is true then you could defat to remove some oils so its not a goo. Your dish can't ever really be too deep. That shouldn't effect the crystals "melting" unless it was one of the conditions I just described. You can use a very thin long jar and freeze in that and it will form crystals just fine.

What I ment buy melting is the crystals form and are there , but when I put it in front of a cold portable air co or fan have tried both but when I try to dry it , it seems there is condensation or frost type thing that attaches to the formed crystals and it takes about 3 seconds to dissapere into a milky watery looking fluid it doesn't even dry to goo even !! It's just frustrating !!:x
 
cyb said:
It has to be duff bark Earthwalker...can't see any other explanation.
The teks are sound but the bark is 'questionable'
I've read of this before a few times and the bark was a different genus.

yes thank you Cyb , it must be , cause I've done everything I can and I've read reread that many threads and it all comes to the point as you said , the bark is proberly confusa bark but it's of poor quality and I think it's stem bark or it's a x breed !!

Next order is a Taiwan confusa that I no is giving good to great results especially using the max-ion TEK ,

But thank you for you're help !! :thumb_up:
 
Is it ok to use an aluminium/stainless stell (I'm not sure, I think it's aluminium) dish instead of a glass dish? Or would that be a problem because of lye/solvent/whatever? I've already used the search but it talks about plastic not aluminium, so..

Thank you!
 
Astaroth said:
Is it ok to use an aluminium/stainless stell (I'm not sure, I think it's aluminium) dish instead of a glass dish? Or would that be a problem because of lye/solvent/whatever? I've already used the search but it talks about plastic not aluminium, so..

Thank you!


Mixing lye and aluminium is a bad idea. Stainless is OK
Glass is much better to scratch Xtals. Just be sure the glass is OK with heat/cold shock (pyrex is good).

Good luck
 
Few questions:

Is a wooden handle of a wooden spoon good for stirring?
Is wood something to be avoided?

And

Is a cork truly okay for sealing the bottle? I figured the solvent would have a nasty effect on the material of the cork.

Thanks for reading!
 
mrdruid0 said:
Few questions:

Is a wooden handle of a wooden spoon good for stirring?
Is wood something to be avoided?

And

Is a cork truly okay for sealing the bottle? I figured the solvent would have a nasty effect on the material of the cork.

Thanks for reading!

Wooden spoon is wood, cork is wood, root's bark is wood, so i don't think it's a problem. Exept if it's not plain wood, like chimicals treatment or varnish or anti-mold things.
Stainless is better IMO

For the cork, lye may erode it so watch out leaks.

It was my 2 cents, better to have an other advice.

Happy extraction !
 
Astaroth said:
White vinegar is the one that has cleaning purposes? I can't find any other here besides wine vinegar and apple vinegar.

White vinegar for cleaning purpose is usualy more concentrated (~15%) than basic one for cooking (~5%). You can use it, just put less in your mix.
 
DansMaTete said:
mrdruid0 said:
Few questions:

Is a wooden handle of a wooden spoon good for stirring?
Is wood something to be avoided?

And

Is a cork truly okay for sealing the bottle? I figured the solvent would have a nasty effect on the material of the cork.

Thanks for reading!

Wooden spoon is wood, cork is wood, root's bark is wood, so i don't think it's a problem. Exept if it's not plain wood, like chimicals treatment or varnish or anti-mold things.
Stainless is better IMO

For the cork, lye may erode it so watch out leaks.

It was my 2 cents, better to have an other advice.

Happy extraction !


I wonder what the likelihood is of a cooking spoon having any chemicals or treatments.
 
DansMaTete said:
Astaroth said:
White vinegar is the one that has cleaning purposes? I can't find any other here besides wine vinegar and apple vinegar.

White vinegar for cleaning purpose is usualy more concentrated (~15%) than basic one for cooking (~5%). You can use it, just put less in your mix.
So can't you use cider vinegar (5%) instead of white vinegar (it says alcohol vinegar 8º ac.) ?
 
This partially a copy from a former post, posted in the wrong thread.

Problem: No crystallisation after 4 times freezing and carbonate wash :cry:

History of this extraction:
I did a mhrb extraction following Cyb's Hybrid Salt Tek. I did two pulls but had no time to complete the process. I saved the solution for half a year.

This week I continued. I did two pulls.

After freezing I noticed transparent white slimey balls were formed in combination with a lot of brown stuff on top.

Because it didn't look like normal crystals. I evaporated 80% of the nafta. And tried freezing again. But still there was only brown pudding kind of sludge.

I added extra nafta heated it. Separated the brown stuff on the bottom and tried freezing again... Still brown sludge.

So I did a Carbonate wash with two dH2O washes.
Evaporated 50%. Put it in the freezer.

Now almost 24hrs of freezing later. There are no crystals formed. Just ochre yellow fine particles on the bottom of the dish. Which are moving when you move the dish. Floating almost.

What to do? Re-X? First totally evaporate?
 
Without a picture or actually being there we dont know what the yellow fine particles are on the bottom of the dish but I'm willing to bet that its DMT.

You did quite a bit of cleaning up so it should be moderately clean except for dmt and plant oils. Most times when i freeze precip I dont get crystals, i just get a very fine powder.

If youre still getting globs of stuff then you maybe have some plastic contamination. A mini a/b should fix that. Reabsorb everything into some naptha, then mix it with some vinegar. Seperate the two liquids and then basify the vinegar and pull again with clean naptha. You should have a fairly decent result from that.
 
dakkapel said:
Problem: No crystallisation after 4 times freezing and carbonate wash :cry:

This week I continued. I did two pulls.

You may still try another pull, this time keeping the temperature around 35 deg.Celcius while mixing the mimosa soup and the naphta. You could do so using a warm water bath.

After freezing I noticed transparent white slimey balls were formed in combination with a lot of brown stuff on top.

To me, the brown stuff sounds like plant remains that got shaken into your naphta. It can be removed by either recrystallization or another A/B.

I added extra nafta heated it. Separated the brown stuff on the bottom and tried freezing again... Still brown sludge.

Good, you tried to recrystallize. Did you leave the container with the product in warm naphta standing for a little while (while still keeping the naphta at temperature)? That should allow any plant solids to fall down to the bottom, while keeping the alkaloids dissolved. When the naphta has sufficiently clarified, you can then decant the clear naphta into another container and let it cool down for crystals to form.

So I did a Carbonate wash with two dH2O washes.
Evaporated 50%. Put it in the freezer.

Now almost 24hrs of freezing later. There are no crystals formed. Just ochre yellow fine particles on the bottom of the dish. Which are moving when you move the dish. Floating almost.

These might be goodies, in the form of really small crystals, that appear more like snow.

OR - these might be water crystals, a leftover from your dH2O washes. If so, they will melt and possibly appear slimey, but should also evaporate cleanly after decanting the (still ice-cold) naphta from the crystals. It may be helpful to use a syringe for that.

BTW, 24 hours of freezing is not excessive, sometimes it needs even longer time in the freezer to precipitate everything

What to do? Re-X? First totally evaporate?

Try:

1. Total evaporate (get rid of any water)
2. Redissolve in minimal amount of hot naphta, let stand 10 minutes while keeping the naphta hot.
3. Decant carefully into clean container.
4. Cool and freeze for at least 24 hours.
5. Decant and evaporate last naphta remains.

Hopefully that will improve your results. If not, try A/B on it as suggested.
 
hello,
i am doing an extraction right now and for the first time, just after salting a strange layer separated in the acidified and (after that) in the basified mix . This has never occured so far in my previous (six) extractions. I am applying Cyb's hybrid salt tek to the letter.

pictures 1 and 3 are few minutes after adding the salted water solution, as soon as i noticed this. picture 2 is after basifying.

is this an emulsion? i am leaving the basified solution overnight and will be pulling tomorrow, so i just wanted to check with fellow nexians what this might be.

dumb me: forgot to point out - plant material is mh
 

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Du57mi73 said:
Looks like you had some soap in your container before using it or something to create suds.


i did 3 pulls today, yielded approximately .6 g spice from 45 g bark.

I remember i did wash this reaction bottle like few weeks ago with a kitchenware detergent, but rinsed it with water quite thoroughly.

IF it is suds, as you suggest, it should have come frome the little pot that i use to make my acidic solution and saline solution.
Nevermind, will be more careful for that from now on.

Is there any chance that sud has affected the freebase spice. I mean reacted with it in some unknown (for me) way. Spice looks normal, at least to my understanding, but I'll be taking the extra mile re-xing and doing sodium carb washes on that yield. Just want to inquire nexians more experienced than me.

thanks for taking time to help me out.
 
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