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official extraction help thread

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Hi there!

I made my first extraction a month or so ago. I went for the DMT Handbook A/B extraction, and when I got to the end result I saw I had done a very sloppy work. The final product was smeared in black goo and plant oils. The siphon method, for seperating the naphta from the tea, did not work for me.
So I did a sodium carbonate wash, on which I poored 3-40ml of naptha for each gram of spice I was guessing on I had. Then I seperated the layers with 3ml syrenges, and kept te plant oils in a jar. This gave me a quite nice product 😁

My question is now.. This jar with plant oils still contained some naphta, which after a while seperated from the other fluids.. But after the hard work of seperating with syrenges, I ordered some seperatory funnels wich I thought I would wait for before seperating the naptha from the oils.. It has now been around 3 weeks, and the jar with plant oils and naptha has been standing (very stupidly) in the sun for these 3 weeks.


Would it be safe enough to use this naptha, or should I throw it out?
And how should I approach it before hand? Should I wash it once more in Sodium Carbonate?

- It used to be seperated in to 3 layers: black, honey, naptha. Now its brown and naptha.
 
i have used STB tek (from Watcha) and i have got from 250 gr mimosa only 0.9 gr crystals and 0.9 gr GOO
what could be wrong ? i was expecting for 4-5 gr of crystals...

pls help since i have more 250 gr mimosa

is it possible because the solvent was in the freezer only 10 hours,but its good freezer
 
neo-kusto said:
i have used STB tek (from Watcha) and i have got from 250 gr mimosa only 0.9 gr crystals and 0.9 gr GOO
what could be wrong ? i was expecting for 4-5 gr of crystals...

Don't worry too much about yields if you are new to doing extractions. Be happy that you got some already.

If you still have the basified mimosa soup, you can add some more lye, add table salt and do some more extractions with naphta. Maybe let it stand for a week or more before pulling the naphta.

Don't throw the naphta from freeze precipitating away either, it probably still contains some product. You can reuse it for more extractions or evaporate it to get the last (less pure) dmt from it.

neo-kusto said:
is it possible because the solvent was in the freezer only 10 hours,but its good freezer

Sometimes crystal growth just needs a little time, even in a good freezer.
 
pitubo said:
If you still have the basified mimosa soup, you can add some more lye, add table salt and do some more extractions with naphta. Maybe let it stand for a week or more before pulling the naphta.

Don't throw the naphta from freeze precipitating away either, it probably still contains some product. You can reuse it for more extractions or evaporate it to get the last (less pure) dmt from it.
"

i didnt know that salt should be added,can u clarify that please, when do i add the salt,and how much ? i am using this tek


when i mixed mimosa and lye,it was in a jar about two days..
i have used ratio 1 gr lye - 15 cc water. should i use less water?
 
I posted this 9 days ago with no answers, so I'm trying once more :)

decibel said:
Hi there!

I made my first extraction a month or so ago. I went for the DMT Handbook A/B extraction, and when I got to the end result I saw I had done a very sloppy work. The final product was smeared in black goo and plant oils. The siphon method, for seperating the naphta from the tea, did not work for me.
So I did a sodium carbonate wash, on which I poored 3-40ml of naptha for each gram of spice I was guessing on I had. Then I seperated the layers with 3ml syrenges, and kept te plant oils in a jar. This gave me a quite nice product 😁

My question is now.. This jar with plant oils still contained some naphta, which after a while seperated from the other fluids.. But after the hard work of seperating with syrenges, I ordered some seperatory funnels wich I thought I would wait for before seperating the naptha from the oils.. It has now been around 3 weeks, and the jar with plant oils and naptha has been standing (very stupidly) in the sun for these 3 weeks.


Would it be safe enough to use this naptha, or should I throw it out?
And how should I approach it before hand? Should I wash it once more in Sodium Carbonate?

- It used to be seperated in to 3 layers: black, honey, naptha. Now its brown and naptha.

Keep in mind, that the jar I mention has been standing for over a month now :)
 
decibel said:
I posted this 9 days ago with no answers, so I'm trying once more :)

decibel said:
..snipped by me..

Keep in mind, that the jar I mention has been standing for over a month now :)

I read your question, and couldn't make much sense of it. Maybe you should have asked your question in a better way for people to understand and answer.

What material were you extracting anyway, that contains so much plant oils?
 
pitubo said:
I read your question, and couldn't make much sense of it. Maybe you should have asked your question in a better way for people to understand and answer.

What material were you extracting anyway, that contains so much plant oils?

Sorry for that, I did my best trying to explain my self with the english I know, but I'll try even harder!

I did a MHRB extraction, using the DMT Handbook extraction tek..
It is not that the material I were extracting contained a lot of oils, but that I wasn't thorough enough when isolating the naphta from the bark tea.
I used the siffon a siffon device like they recommended in the DMT handbook, which didn't work at all for me. I would always get lots of bark tea in the naphta container, or leave lots of naphta in the bark container.

So after washing my end product - using syrenges instead of the siphon device - I kept the oils, which I had read could be used for changa, (please correct me if this is wrong) in a jar. In this jar there was still some naphta left that first separeted after a while, which I have waited to isolate, since I have been waiting on separatory funnels to do the work :)

My question is: Would it still be safe to use this naptha and/or plant oils after a month? If so, should I do a Sodium Carbonate wash before hand?

Hope it makes more sense this time :thumb_up:
 
swim got into some trouble with my last extract.
swim did and stb and usually the naphtha goes yellow.
bit this time swim became as black as the bark/base/water mix.
swim needed a light to see the layers.
and when swim friezed it the dark brown/black gue came to the bottom with nice white crystals on top.
but a soon as swim got it out of the freezer the black stuff melted as well
and swim got some really black brown crystals.
that couldn't even be recrystallized now swim discovered that when swim first cool the naphtha
it separates so swim spitted it up and friezed it again now it was nice.
and the blackish crystals swim washed with d h2o with seem to get nice orange/yellow and can be recrystallized.
and all the other NP naphtha swim washed with water with a pinch of sodium bi carbonate
and its in the freezer now

now my question's what would have made the naphtha so blackish?
to my impression swim dint do much els then before.
and can you was dmt base with dh2o?
to my science yeah but never read it some where.
and jugle also doent dissolve in water right?

many thanx
 
just-yb, when you add bark and lye at the same time the bark breaks down into microfine particles that float in the naptha and cause it to be brown/black. Your best way to fix this is to re-x. A soda carb wash wont really fix it. The black IS plant matter, so maybe you can try filtering it through a coffee filter, that actually might be better than a re-x.

Next time make sure you add lye and let it completely react with the water AND cool down before adding your bark. The bark you have is low quality.
 
decibel,

It sounds like what you are referring to as "plant oils" are actually contaminants from your basic solution that ended up in your final product. Through your admitted carelessness (no offense, we've all been there 😉, you mistakenly siphoned some into your collection jar when trying to separate your solvent from the aqueous layer.

If this is the case:

They are NOT good for changa. Do NOT consume them. Seriously don't.


It was smart to do a sodium carbonate wash on your product, which I am assuming consisted of dissolving sodium carbonate into water and then adding your product to the solution. The impurities that you accidentally brought from the aqueous layer will dissolve in the water, but your freebase DMT will not, so it was a good move.

When you say you "kept the oils", I assume that you kept the sodium carbonate/water solution that you had washed your spice with, and you didn't pull every last drop of solvent off the top, probably out of wanting to be careful not to pull any of the aqueous layer (also a good move).

Leaving solvent in the jar with your aqueous solution for long periods is usually only a bad idea when you are working with the filtered, basified solution from the original acid soak of the plant material, because the longer it sits, the more it will start to suck out things you DON'T want.

This is not an issue with the sodium carbonate solution, as you will not be able to end up with more impurities than your product originally had. Feel free to siphon off the naphtha in this jar without worry, but for the sake of scientific rigor, I would likely keep anything that precipitates out separate from the rest of your spice.

I've personally let naphtha sit in a jar with my original basic solution for several weeks. What precipitated out was noticeably less pure than pulls done in a timely manner, but nothing dangerous, and nothing you can't clean up.
 
hypothetically, after doing an entire a/b extraction, during the step where I would wait for my naphtha, and acacia solution seperate but before I take out the naphtha to chrystalize, would there be 3 layers or 2.

the 3 layers would they be naphtha, acacia solution, and an aqueous layer.

or

would it be 2 layers one naptha and one acacia sulution.

just a little confused
 
so after mixing the naphtha, lye, and acacia solution all u do is wait for the naphtha and acacia seperate and siphon off the naphtha? In the teks I don't see where they specify. I had read that there will be a water layer below a layer of
naphtha an that that's where the lye is absorbed. and to obviously avoid the water
 
JisforJohnathan said:
so after mixing the naphtha, lye, and acacia solution all u do is wait for the naphtha and acacia seperate and siphon off the naphtha? In the teks I don't see where they specify. I had read that there will be a water layer below a layer of
naphtha an that that's where the lye is absorbed. and to obviously avoid the water

Yeah 2 layers the lye will be absorbed into the acacia water soup and the naphtha on top ,, if I mean if you get a thin layer between them as 3rdI says that's bubbles ( emulsion ) to rid this place whole jar back in warm water bath and slightly agitate the jar and it should disperse !! You really should read the FAQ it's all in there !!
 
Du57mi73 said:
just-yb, when you add bark and lye at the same time the bark breaks down into microfine particles that float in the naptha and cause it to be brown/black. Your best way to fix this is to re-x. A soda carb wash wont really fix it. The black IS plant matter, so maybe you can try filtering it through a coffee filter, that actually might be better than a re-x.

Next time make sure you add lye and let it completely react with the water AND cool down before adding your bark. The bark you have is low quality.

many thanks for your reaction Du57mi73 :)

so it also have to do with the quality of the bark ?
or only by not letting the lye react with the water before?
swim got the crystals clear by crushing them up putting them in a jars add dh2o and shake it around the water took the nasty color continued until the water looked clear and now there orangy yellow do ya still think re dissolving them in naphtha and filtering them would help or could it be that i got the bark out?
 
There is still bark in it. Your dmt should not be orange at all if it came from mhrb. If it is orange at all it means theres still plant matter in it. What you did to get rid of a majority of the bark was smart, but theres still more in it. Reabsorb it in naptha and then filter it would be best bet.

It is the combination of the 2 things going wrong, not one or the other. You have to have low quality bark AND add the bark at/near the same time as the lye.
 
I use cyb's tek to and when it comes to pulls :

- 2 first pulls combined and let cool at room temp then put in the friddge few hours and finaly freeze step 12h or more. No need to evaporate, it should be saturated.
- 3 and 4 pulls combined, evaporate (~20%) until milky, then frige and freeze.
- The next pulls i don't combine them to know how much spice is in it and if it worth another pull or not. I evap (~~40%) until milky, fridge and freezer.
- usualy after the last pull i do an ultime one with xylene just to be sure to grab the last bit of DMT plus the jungle spice. And i salt it (FASA, WASA)

This is what i do, others will do differently and better.

Good luck
 
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