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official extraction help thread

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Well, it is not very high quality bark, that's for sure. I regained some after re-xing al the leftover nps, but in total still about 1% with cyb's tek.

I started out with small doses, so as not to lose it all in one batch if something goes wrong :p

Still think its most likely that the lime is to blame, since I did everything but the basification stage in the same way.

-edited-
 
Quick Panoramix LSA tek question that I can't find any info for...

Ended up doing 1 pound of seeds to start with as the tek looked pretty straightforward. Did naphtha wash and seed drying. Currently letting everclear soak #3 settle. The liquid is a darker clearish yellow when all soaks are combined and slightly blacklight reactive at this point.

I'm wondering if the solution can be cleaned any further if some fats may have remained from naphtha wash as last wash was not completely clear or if that even matters. Also wondering if the solution can later be dried to a solid even though everclear was used instead of IPA to make for more accurate yield confirmation. I'd put that into a solution for storage if so.

Any and all help would be appreciated. Thank you :)
 
Hi everyone, I'm just trying to get my bearings and mentally working through a simulated tek (Cyb's hybrid atb salt tek) to understand the processes and why they are done.

How important is placing the solvent in the freezer after evaporating? I understand this is to make the material fall out of solution and save some solvent...but what would be the result if one left this to evaporate naturally? Other than taking longer to access the yield (and losing some naptha) would there be any difference?
 
It would most likely be a gooey mess (but still usable). Also, perhaps any contamination that normally does not come along with precipitation, would still be there?

It wouldn't take longer though (at least not for me). If I put 50ml of naptha under a fan in a pyrex dish, it is evaporated within half an hour to an hour or so.
 
Usualy the final product is cleaner when freeze precipitated cause when you evap you end up with all the stuff dissolved in naphta (like fats).
And, IME, if it's hot (>25°C), you end up more easily with goo.
 
Thanks for the quick reply!

Might this "goo" be a transparent sticky film (possibly with yellow blobs here and there) that is extremely bitter when placed on the tongue?

Or might that be an impurity that causes the bitter taste...lye, salt, etc?
 
Goo can be transparent, white, yellow, orange, red, brown but it's always sticky (that's why it's called goo :) ).

You can't test the "purity" with taste cause even pure freebase burns the tongue. If you have any doubt you can re-X.
 
Hi Nexians :)

i have two question for cleaning my results:

have done an A/B extraction from 350g MHBR..(without defating step)
pulled 3x with roomtemp. Naphta -> got about 3,5g yellow Crystals and yellow oily stuff after freezing and decanting
pulled 3x with hot Naphta -> got about 2g red oily stuff after freezing and decanting..

i'm sure there's no basic solution in it.. because i was very careful with my pipette ;-)


a) if i want clean white crystals, can i put the two results together and do a normal Re-EX?
b) is it better to clean the hot Naptha-Mix with Sodium-Carbonate before?

thank you
RF
 
Hi Nexus

I bought 250g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark and ran Cyb's tek four times to get through all of it; I now have c.4g of DMT collected together in a small jar and varying in purity. I'd like to re-extract it all in one go if possible - would appreciate any advice on the best way to go about this, and in particular how much naphtha I should use (I have c.75ml of naphtha leftover from the extractions, slightly cloudy so presumably itself harbouring more DMT).

Thanks!
 
RideFree said:
have done an A/B extraction from 350g MHBR..(without defating step)
pulled 3x with roomtemp. Naphta -> got about 3,5g yellow Crystals and yellow oily stuff after freezing and decanting
pulled 3x with hot Naphta -> got about 2g red oily stuff after freezing and decanting..

i'm sure there's no basic solution in it.. because i was very careful with my pipette ;-)


a) if i want clean white crystals, can i put the two results together and do a normal Re-EX?
b) is it better to clean the hot Naptha-Mix with Sodium-Carbonate before?
RF

okay, if some one is interested.. i'll show you my result:

have done a separated re-x.. first with the 3,5g yellow Crystals.. result was 3,2g white stuff
and a re-x with the red oily stuff..result was 1,2g yellow crystals

:)

RF
 
Iridule said:
Hi Nexus

I bought 250g of Mimosa Hostilis root bark and ran Cyb's tek four times to get through all of it; I now have c.4g of DMT collected together in a small jar and varying in purity. I'd like to re-extract it all in one go if possible - would appreciate any advice on the best way to go about this, and in particular how much naphtha I should use (I have c.75ml of naphtha leftover from the extractions, slightly cloudy so presumably itself harbouring more DMT).

Thanks!

Hi Iridule,

i would dissolve the DMT in hot naptha,put the jar with naptha & DMT in a hot water bath and stir a bit.. after 3-5min you'll see the impurities at the bottom.. put the naptha in a fresh jar and put it in the freezer for 20h

i used 200ml fresh naptha for my re-x with 4,5g DMT

->does anyone know what to do with the impurities? is this only bad stuff, or are there just other alkaloids in it?
i have about 1g red oil
 
Did what ridefree said and indeed impurities were left at te bottom. Mostly oily stuff.
It made the yield less oily and can be dried and crystal flaky when scraped after 3 days drying at room temp. A small fan would speed it up.
I discarded the oil... Is there a use for the oily stuff as ridefree had asked..

Also when does a mhrb mush be considered to be already zero in dmt content?
 
I've had failures with TEKS as well.
Finally I got sick of failing so I made My own 'tek' after years of reading various types here on the Nexus and elsewhere. I also read up on the solubility of DMT and the PH levels best to get it out [[ above 8.5 I believe ]] of the 'Material'/Plant Matter/Vegetation. I THINK the following may even work for the 'Grasses' and the 'Leafs' containing Deemsters -
I take the ACRB and do a COLD WATER extraction with Citric Acid. It takes longer[[ About a week ]] but I find it keeps a lot of the 'fats' and 'oils' out. I just cover about an inch or so above the bark with SPRING WATER [[ NOT tap. I don't know where YOU live but there is all kinds of crap in tap water that can effect the process where I live so I spend the little bit of cash for Spring ]]and shake it up every now and then for a the first 36 hours. Then strain and do it again but this time it's already saturated so I only do it for a day. I do this about four times. Usually for the last one I'll freeze it first. Then I'll proceed to soak in acidified spring water for about 12 hours and strain.
I don't grind up the bark, I don't do anything with it, I just take it as I get it [[ Shredded ]] and it works just fine. I tried grinding it up first but it made no difference besides being a little quicker.
I combine all the extracts in gallon jugs and keep them REFRIGERATED or else mold can grow. Then I simply reduce to about a fourth of it's original volume, filter while HOT a few times to get any fibers out and after it cools I use calcium carbonate to get it up to around PH 8 and then a little lye to bring it to above 10, or, as soon as the emulsion from the calcium carbonate dissolves, it's ready.
Then I only use hot heptane [[ in a water bath ]]and I keep the Brew hot as well.
When I'm all done pulling, I go back and use 25/75 Heptane/Naptha to pull whatever there is left, usually mostly NMT and the 'Goo' [[ Which I find to be enjoyable in it's own right ]].
I have tried boiling the bark then filtering and reducing but it just made it way too oily and I got a LOT of the 'goo' and a few crystals that way, unless I used a 'slow evaporation' method. Then the crystals would grow but on the bottom would be the goo so I'd have to drain off the solvent then pick the crystals away from the goo.
I think that the more time taken to get the goods, the better results but I havent tried a dry tech yet and I'm not sure if I want to do that with ACRB. Mimosa is available if you know how to find it [[ Using different names ]] but it's double the cost of what I get the ACRB for so... Whatever you do: DON'T GIVE UP ! It took Me a few tries to get My own process down but it's worth the effort. I even have gotten crystals that LOOKED great but did NOTHING and believe me THAT was frustrating ! So, keep trying, you'll find a TEK or come up with your own, if you really really really want it - Good Luck Friend !
 
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