psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
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official extraction help thread
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Naabi
Rising Star
Greetings 
I used Q21Q21's tek (500g of MHRB + 500 ml vinegar and water, after a while I added 400g of lye and limonene, did the vinegar salting, etc) and it worked very well for colleting the dmt on the first pull, but the problem is that I put the leftovers aside with some limonene for weeks to really exhaust the bark, and today it has mixed with the MHRB + lye layer, becoming just one layer of thick black goo. I tried adding more lye (a lot more) and still no separation...anyone know if I can salvage this? Didn't want to lose all that solvent.
Thanks!
I used Q21Q21's tek (500g of MHRB + 500 ml vinegar and water, after a while I added 400g of lye and limonene, did the vinegar salting, etc) and it worked very well for colleting the dmt on the first pull, but the problem is that I put the leftovers aside with some limonene for weeks to really exhaust the bark, and today it has mixed with the MHRB + lye layer, becoming just one layer of thick black goo. I tried adding more lye (a lot more) and still no separation...anyone know if I can salvage this? Didn't want to lose all that solvent.
Thanks!
JefFlux
Rising Star
Hi all,
If the acid boil phase uses vingegar to produce DMT acetate, and an acid boil using ascorbic acid produces DMT ascorbate, will the integrity of the DMT salt be compromised by using a combination of both (i.e. first boil at pH 3.5 using vinegar - subsequent boils @pH 3.5 using ascorbic acid).
many thanks
If the acid boil phase uses vingegar to produce DMT acetate, and an acid boil using ascorbic acid produces DMT ascorbate, will the integrity of the DMT salt be compromised by using a combination of both (i.e. first boil at pH 3.5 using vinegar - subsequent boils @pH 3.5 using ascorbic acid).
many thanks
TheInternetPolice
Rising Star
so i got around 100g MHRB shredded, added 13.5M solution of NaOH to cover it and immediately added naptha, did around 3-4 pulls with this, first 2 i messed up leaving it over a pot with hot water, when the naptha was gone there was hardly any residue, thereafter i moved strictly to using a fan, but i keep on ending up with this oil, and it doesnt even seem like a decent amount of residue?? i added a bunch more sodium hydroxide solution and naptha and stirred it very well many times, havent heated it up the slightest, when the naptha disappears im left with this, it shouldnt have turned into n-oxide DMT of what i understand as this takes around a full day with strong airing of DMT, it seems like the naptha doesnt care much about the residue?? on one picture the naptha is a faint yellow but i havent so far been able to get anything to really precipitate out of naptha by freezing it down, it got cloudy once and ill have to be honest, im a bit impatient as i know you cant just let the sodium hydroxide and naptha work on the bark for a month, it will eventually turn into a useless emulsion
i see people get first crystals that then turn gooey, but i havent yet had this, and im pulling with around 50mL naptha at a time, so it should be decently concentrated? im feeling quite lost in a supposedly simple extraction process
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Compromise the integrity? Are you trying to bribe your DMT?JefFlux said:
The point of the acid boils is to liberate the DMT in a water soluble form free from tannins. DMT goes into solution as a protonated cation, what the counter-ion is is of small consequence. Ascorbate, acetate, chloride, sulphate, citrate, lactate - all do the job. Presumably you'll be adding base afterwards which will make the counter-ion largely irrelevant anyhow.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
You have particulates in your naphtha. Looks like you are hurrying and being careless, and maybe don't really understand what you're doing. At least decant your naphtha via an intermediate jug before pouring into the evaporation dish. Evaporation is a shameful waste of solvent and puts you at greater risk of contaminants in your product.TheInternetPolice said:
so i got around 100g MHRB shredded, added 13.5M solution of NaOH to cover it and immediately added naptha, did around 3-4 pulls with this, first 2 i messed up leaving it over a pot with hot water, when the naptha was gone there was hardly any residue, thereafter i moved strictly to using a fan, but i keep on ending up with this oil, and it doesnt even seem like a decent amount of residue?? i added a bunch more sodium hydroxide solution and naptha and stirred it very well many times, havent heated it up the slightest, when the naptha disappears im left with this, it shouldnt have turned into n-oxide DMT of what i understand as this takes around a full day with strong airing of DMT, it seems like the naptha doesnt care much about the residue?? on one picture the naptha is a faint yellow but i havent so far been able to get anything to really precipitate out of naptha by freezing it down, it got cloudy once and ill have to be honest, im a bit impatient as i know you cant just let the sodium hydroxide and naptha work on the bark for a month, it will eventually turn into a useless emulsion
i see people get first crystals that then turn gooey, but i havent yet had this, and im pulling with around 50mL naptha at a time, so it should be decently concentrated? im feeling quite lost in a supposedly simple extraction process
Leaving the bark and base for a month does not cause it to "turn into a useless emulsion". That would be caused by excessive shaking of the mixture.
With shredded bark you need to soak in the caustic soda for much longer than you did to get any significant release of alkaloids.
What does the residue smell like? Did you do an evaporation test on your naphtha?
Maybe you got bunk bark, too.
JefFlux
Rising Star
Thanks downwardsfromzero
-good to know, (I prefer ascorbic over vinegar for the lack of smell). I dare to think how DMT would respond to being bribed lol...gently coerced maybe
-After many attempts with some local acacia (A. Obtusifolia and A. Courtii), yields are still significantly lower than what they should be (i.e around the 0.1 percent mark rather than the 1.0). This is frustrating and a little confusing as I have obtained decent yields from other species (Acuminata) - and I am also 99 percent sure on their ID.
Boiling has now been done a much lower temperature (i.e. a very slow simmer rather than vigorous boiling), and basifying only enough to turn the tea black. Also switching to Xylene instead of Digger's Shellite made no notable difference.
Any suggestions here would be most welcome ( my method can be found a few pages back at #125)
cheers,
Flux
-good to know, (I prefer ascorbic over vinegar for the lack of smell). I dare to think how DMT would respond to being bribed lol...gently coerced maybe
-After many attempts with some local acacia (A. Obtusifolia and A. Courtii), yields are still significantly lower than what they should be (i.e around the 0.1 percent mark rather than the 1.0). This is frustrating and a little confusing as I have obtained decent yields from other species (Acuminata) - and I am also 99 percent sure on their ID.
Boiling has now been done a much lower temperature (i.e. a very slow simmer rather than vigorous boiling), and basifying only enough to turn the tea black. Also switching to Xylene instead of Digger's Shellite made no notable difference.
Any suggestions here would be most welcome ( my method can be found a few pages back at #125)
cheers,
Flux
TheInternetPolice
Rising Star
You have particulates in your naphtha. Looks like you are hurrying and being careless, and maybe don't really understand what you're doing. At least decant your naphtha via an intermediate jug before pouring into the evaporation dish. Evaporation is a shameful waste of solvent and puts you at greater risk of contaminants in your product.
Leaving the bark and base for a month does not cause it to "turn into a useless emulsion". That would be caused by excessive shaking of the mixture.
With shredded bark you need to soak in the caustic soda for much longer than you did to get any significant release of alkaloids.
What does the residue smell like? Did you do an evaporation test on your naphtha?
Maybe you got bunk bark, too.
[/quote]
no no, i sucked it out carefully avoiding getting bark mixture into the evaporation dish, its when i evaporated the naptha off it forms this odd gunk, i did take great care not getting caustic soda into what ill later try to breathe in, im seeing now the naptha turns significantly more yellow letting it stand for much longer and shaking it a whole lot more, i did manage to evaporate off naptha containing DMT, transfer it to beaker then cool it down for a few days, small dots of white solids formed on the bottom, and i now measured the dry seeming powder to around 40mg after inverting beaker in freezer with paper underneath thereafter at room temperature
around 40mg seen in picture, very odd non-crystalline solid
evaporation test shouldnt give any residue as its chemically "pure" naptha, but i tested around half a millilitre and found no residue
i have read people claim the rubber part of a turkey baster to be possible to dissolve in naptha but im a bit skeptical to this as theres no notable colour change from when i pull naptha to when i pump it back out, others than that a thin PVC tube is attached to the baster which makes it easy to pull larger amounts of liquid faster using gravity as pulling force
very happy to hear there isnt as much of an extraction rush as ive came across earlier
*edit*
entire +35mg went into smoke and the ghosts of my room had no breakthrough what so ever, i didnt try to heat the thing up during extraction, yet.
Leaving the bark and base for a month does not cause it to "turn into a useless emulsion". That would be caused by excessive shaking of the mixture.
With shredded bark you need to soak in the caustic soda for much longer than you did to get any significant release of alkaloids.
What does the residue smell like? Did you do an evaporation test on your naphtha?
Maybe you got bunk bark, too.
[/quote]
no no, i sucked it out carefully avoiding getting bark mixture into the evaporation dish, its when i evaporated the naptha off it forms this odd gunk, i did take great care not getting caustic soda into what ill later try to breathe in, im seeing now the naptha turns significantly more yellow letting it stand for much longer and shaking it a whole lot more, i did manage to evaporate off naptha containing DMT, transfer it to beaker then cool it down for a few days, small dots of white solids formed on the bottom, and i now measured the dry seeming powder to around 40mg after inverting beaker in freezer with paper underneath thereafter at room temperature
around 40mg seen in picture, very odd non-crystalline solid
evaporation test shouldnt give any residue as its chemically "pure" naptha, but i tested around half a millilitre and found no residue
i have read people claim the rubber part of a turkey baster to be possible to dissolve in naptha but im a bit skeptical to this as theres no notable colour change from when i pull naptha to when i pump it back out, others than that a thin PVC tube is attached to the baster which makes it easy to pull larger amounts of liquid faster using gravity as pulling force
very happy to hear there isnt as much of an extraction rush as ive came across earlier
*edit*
entire +35mg went into smoke and the ghosts of my room had no breakthrough what so ever, i didnt try to heat the thing up during extraction, yet.
Levanah
Rising Star
Hi all,
Reality has guided me to this forum and I give thanks from my heart for this beautiful space and appreciate all members for their presence and for beeing part of this special field of plant-wisdom and healing. I have learned much from this forum, especially in terms of dmt extraction teks.
Beeing new to DMT extraction at all, I'm currently into my first extraction.
I used the eco friendly exctration tek "Extracting DMT with ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate" from endlessness, but used IPA (99,9%) instead of Ethnaol, and lime instead of sodium carbonate. + I did an acidification step before as it is described in Q21Q21 Tek
In other words: I used Q21Q21 Tek until the step on the Non-polar Wash and used IPA instead of D-Limonene.
The first pull of 50g MHBR yieled 375mg brown-wax as you can see on the picture. It smells like DMT, but the smell is not too strong.
My thought on this is that the brown-wax is contaminated by lime (calcium-hydroxid). I learned from the thread linked above that there is possibly no need to redissolve the brown-wax in acid. Instead it could be cleaned by just redissolving it in IPA and leave it in the freezer for the excess lime to precipitate out. Then filter again and evaporate off the IPA.
My question: Not everything of the brown-wax redissolved in IPA (see my second picture). It's sitting for hours in a warm bath now (double boiler method) but there's still brown wax at the bottom of the little jar. Why does the brown wax does not dissolve in IPA and what would you suggest me to do next? Do you think that there is still DMT in the not dissolved wax, or is it either lime and other not wanted products? What are your thoughts and suggestions on all of this?
Thanks for for your help!
Reality has guided me to this forum and I give thanks from my heart for this beautiful space and appreciate all members for their presence and for beeing part of this special field of plant-wisdom and healing. I have learned much from this forum, especially in terms of dmt extraction teks.
Beeing new to DMT extraction at all, I'm currently into my first extraction.
I used the eco friendly exctration tek "Extracting DMT with ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate" from endlessness, but used IPA (99,9%) instead of Ethnaol, and lime instead of sodium carbonate. + I did an acidification step before as it is described in Q21Q21 Tek
In other words: I used Q21Q21 Tek until the step on the Non-polar Wash and used IPA instead of D-Limonene.
The first pull of 50g MHBR yieled 375mg brown-wax as you can see on the picture. It smells like DMT, but the smell is not too strong.
My thought on this is that the brown-wax is contaminated by lime (calcium-hydroxid). I learned from the thread linked above that there is possibly no need to redissolve the brown-wax in acid. Instead it could be cleaned by just redissolving it in IPA and leave it in the freezer for the excess lime to precipitate out. Then filter again and evaporate off the IPA.
My question: Not everything of the brown-wax redissolved in IPA (see my second picture). It's sitting for hours in a warm bath now (double boiler method) but there's still brown wax at the bottom of the little jar. Why does the brown wax does not dissolve in IPA and what would you suggest me to do next? Do you think that there is still DMT in the not dissolved wax, or is it either lime and other not wanted products? What are your thoughts and suggestions on all of this?
Thanks for for your help!
Levanah
Rising Star
After putting the IPA solution in the freezer for 4 hours and then evaporated the IPA in the wide glass dish (see picture), I yielded almost NOTHING.
The not dissolved brown wax in the little glass smells strongly like IPA.
Where is the DMT gone or I did I never yielded a significant amount of DMT out of my first pull? Any rescue suggestions?
Shalom
The not dissolved brown wax in the little glass smells strongly like IPA.
Where is the DMT gone or I did I never yielded a significant amount of DMT out of my first pull? Any rescue suggestions?
Shalom
Attachments
Levanah
Rising Star
Update:
On the picture above (the "empty" wide dish) you see my "no yield" which is rather a not visible very thin layer of dmt smelling oil.
My second pull with IPA (sitted about 3 days) which was again evaporated and then re-pulled (for cleaning CaOH2) with IPA, filtered and evaporated in the same wide dish with the thin layer of dmt smelling oil from the first pull this time yielded a bit more oil, but way too little to scratch something up in this wide dish . So I washed the dish with IPA and put it in a very small jar to evaporate slowly and hopefuly get a very tiny dose of DMT-oil to scratch out in the end.
I asked myself: What did I do wrong?
I used a 50g piece of MHRB from ME and pulvered it myself. The consistency might have been the problem.
I'm doing a second extraction experiment now with 50g pulvered MHRB. This time I ordered it pulvered and did not do it myself - and the consistency looks much much better for extraction. I expect a better yield this time!
And as soon as my d-limonene arrive, i'll update the whole tek to the next step.
So, what about my first self-powdered 50g MHRB?
I'm ready to do anything to rescue the good bark and spice.
After the second pull it's now a dry black paste in the jar with a slightly residue of IPA.
I don't want to put any more water in it as this might lead to pull too much CaOH2 later.
I'll just add more lime to the bark and let it sit some days.
And then I'll let it soak in a good amount of IPA for a week.
Will keep you posted.
On the picture above (the "empty" wide dish) you see my "no yield" which is rather a not visible very thin layer of dmt smelling oil.
My second pull with IPA (sitted about 3 days) which was again evaporated and then re-pulled (for cleaning CaOH2) with IPA, filtered and evaporated in the same wide dish with the thin layer of dmt smelling oil from the first pull this time yielded a bit more oil, but way too little to scratch something up in this wide dish . So I washed the dish with IPA and put it in a very small jar to evaporate slowly and hopefuly get a very tiny dose of DMT-oil to scratch out in the end.
I asked myself: What did I do wrong?
I used a 50g piece of MHRB from ME and pulvered it myself. The consistency might have been the problem.
I'm doing a second extraction experiment now with 50g pulvered MHRB. This time I ordered it pulvered and did not do it myself - and the consistency looks much much better for extraction. I expect a better yield this time!
And as soon as my d-limonene arrive, i'll update the whole tek to the next step.
So, what about my first self-powdered 50g MHRB?
I'm ready to do anything to rescue the good bark and spice.
After the second pull it's now a dry black paste in the jar with a slightly residue of IPA.
I don't want to put any more water in it as this might lead to pull too much CaOH2 later.
I'll just add more lime to the bark and let it sit some days.
And then I'll let it soak in a good amount of IPA for a week.
Will keep you posted.
Levanah
Rising Star
For the protocol:
Did the same IPA extraction experiment as described above with 50g - this time much better powdered - mhrb.
3 pulls yielded (after re-washing it with IPA): 600mg brown goo (looks and smells like nice full spectrum jungle spice)
However, the first IPA pull yielded about 900mg waxy stuff with just 150mg actual junge goo after re-washing it with IPA. The next two pulls were much purer brown stuff from the beginning on because much water (which cause the CaOH2 contamination, as lime is rather insoluble in IPA) was eliminated with the first pull.
3x pull with IPA (always sitted for 24 hours), 3x evapped, 3x re-washed with IPA
-> Changa (which is my goal always) is now in progress / evaping.
If this stuff is potent, and I think it is, the experiment was very successfull -> IPA pulls are a nice, easy and fast way to get full spectrum jungle goo.
Did the same IPA extraction experiment as described above with 50g - this time much better powdered - mhrb.
3 pulls yielded (after re-washing it with IPA): 600mg brown goo (looks and smells like nice full spectrum jungle spice)
However, the first IPA pull yielded about 900mg waxy stuff with just 150mg actual junge goo after re-washing it with IPA. The next two pulls were much purer brown stuff from the beginning on because much water (which cause the CaOH2 contamination, as lime is rather insoluble in IPA) was eliminated with the first pull.
3x pull with IPA (always sitted for 24 hours), 3x evapped, 3x re-washed with IPA
-> Changa (which is my goal always) is now in progress / evaping.
If this stuff is potent, and I think it is, the experiment was very successfull -> IPA pulls are a nice, easy and fast way to get full spectrum jungle goo.
Attachments
At the end of Kash's Mescaline A/B, it calls for a cold MEK wash. Can someone explain this process? I have the MEK sitting in the freezer overnight. Is it as simple as covering the mescaline with the MEK, break it up and stir properly, decant/evaporate the MEK?
It is indeed as simple as covering the mescaline with ice cold MEK and string/crushing it up and letting it settle for a little while. You don't necessarily need to evaporate the solvent afterwards, as mescaline is not soluble in it. Just let the purified mescaline dry out after carefully decanting.
sabex
Rising Star
Hello fellow nexians,
First of all i would like to apologize for my lack of contribution to this forum,ive come a long way since i first discovered this amazing comunity and i want to thank all of you for sharing all this precious knowlege!
So,I finished another successful stb extraction using MHRB,but this time the results were very diffrent,instead of orange yellowish powder that i usualy get,white fluffy crystals formed on the botom of the dish 4 hours in to the precip phase,the tek used was verry simple,1 to 1 shreded MHRB,NaOH and 15 to 1 water to MHRB,and 7 naphta pulls(i like to do more pulls using small quantities of naphta,because each pull gets fully saturated,and precipitation yields more product),my questions are,Why this time the yield was 2x more than i usualy get from the same amount of MHRB,and the xtals are fluffy white?
Is there lye or some other impurity in my product?
The smoke test turned out excelent,whats the deal here?
PS Please excuse my bad english!
First of all i would like to apologize for my lack of contribution to this forum,ive come a long way since i first discovered this amazing comunity and i want to thank all of you for sharing all this precious knowlege!
So,I finished another successful stb extraction using MHRB,but this time the results were very diffrent,instead of orange yellowish powder that i usualy get,white fluffy crystals formed on the botom of the dish 4 hours in to the precip phase,the tek used was verry simple,1 to 1 shreded MHRB,NaOH and 15 to 1 water to MHRB,and 7 naphta pulls(i like to do more pulls using small quantities of naphta,because each pull gets fully saturated,and precipitation yields more product),my questions are,Why this time the yield was 2x more than i usualy get from the same amount of MHRB,and the xtals are fluffy white?
Is there lye or some other impurity in my product?
The smoke test turned out excelent,whats the deal here?
PS Please excuse my bad english!
Different batches or sources of MHRB? Different operating conditions during extraction procedure (could be many variables)?
MrDistractible
Rising Star
Hello! I keep having a problem with a white layer covering the bottom of my dish when freezing it. When i remove the exess naphtha it stays and dries up nicely. When i use a straight razorblade to scrape it flakes. I have scraped it up and when i try to recrystalize it it just does not dissolve. No matter temprature or if i use heptane or Naptha.
The naptha was yellowish clear when i put it in the dish, after a few hours in the freezer (no lid) this layer starts covering the bottom of dish with small bubles from bottom.
What is this substance i am finding?
Bark is MHRB, using destilled (battery) water, lye and naptha. Also added a tiny bit of salt (non iodyne added)
The naptha was yellowish clear when i put it in the dish, after a few hours in the freezer (no lid) this layer starts covering the bottom of dish with small bubles from bottom.
What is this substance i am finding?
Bark is MHRB, using destilled (battery) water, lye and naptha. Also added a tiny bit of salt (non iodyne added)
MrDistractible
Rising Star
It really feels like i am throwing away alot of dmt.. but then again, if it does not dissolve in heptane it must be something else, right? It has a much more fiberous quality then crystals.. And sortif just hugs the bottom of the glass when trying to dissolve in warm heptane.
I tried adding water to the residue after pouring the naptha into a dish for recrystilisation and the water made it clumpy and it floats. *scratches my head*
I tried adding water to the residue after pouring the naptha into a dish for recrystilisation and the water made it clumpy and it floats. *scratches my head*
A pic would be nice.
When you say layer, was it an even layer across the entire bottom?
When you say layer, was it an even layer across the entire bottom?
