psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
-
Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).
official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dmt
Great! Keep up the work.
Well only for me I can tell:
A breakthrough in 1 hit is nearly impossible (for me as I said).
I'm a non smoker of anything, so even if evaporated correctly, smoke is not that nice ...
Ok you are not me, but it could also help: What I recommend is EATING some harmalas before, you will need more, but they last the WHOLE SESSION. Now this is not the only good thing, because much more important is the second:
As you eat them, you can eat virtually any dose (of course there is a maximum inhibition and further would be pointless).
And by eating ~ 250 mg which should grant full inhibition without causing nausea you will get an even longer experience than from vaporization of *regular blend* Changa.
The reason for this: You can hit multiple portions and therefore work your way up.
So I really dont care about how big 1 hit is. I simply take another one until I'm satisfied. And this works well better at *full inhibition* - the regular Changa still leaves not that big of a window between each rip to totally build up on the last one.
Maybe try to make a sequence of small/medium rips and preferably with ORAL Harmalas, this should definetly do the trick!
Well only for me I can tell:
A breakthrough in 1 hit is nearly impossible (for me as I said).
I'm a non smoker of anything, so even if evaporated correctly, smoke is not that nice ...
Ok you are not me, but it could also help: What I recommend is EATING some harmalas before, you will need more, but they last the WHOLE SESSION. Now this is not the only good thing, because much more important is the second:
As you eat them, you can eat virtually any dose (of course there is a maximum inhibition and further would be pointless).
And by eating ~ 250 mg which should grant full inhibition without causing nausea you will get an even longer experience than from vaporization of *regular blend* Changa.
The reason for this: You can hit multiple portions and therefore work your way up.
So I really dont care about how big 1 hit is. I simply take another one until I'm satisfied. And this works well better at *full inhibition* - the regular Changa still leaves not that big of a window between each rip to totally build up on the last one.
Maybe try to make a sequence of small/medium rips and preferably with ORAL Harmalas, this should definetly do the trick!
dsomethingt
Rising Star
Greetings. This is my first post. I've looked around a bit but I may nonetheless have missed something that I ought to have read. Please accept my apology if the following is somehow inappropriate.
I have read that oxidization is an issue of concern while extracting DMT. I have also read--in the context of teks discussing hot water baths--that heat breaks down DMT; however, I've been told by a reputable source that you cannot get water hot enough to damage DMT.
What is the truth? At what point(s) during extraction is contact with air a concern? And for temperatures under 100C (90C in practice), do I need to concern myself at any points with heat breaking down what I'm after?
Background: I'm still acquainting myself with various extraction procedures. I completed Noman's tek and once got some nice crystals but there was a fair bit of yellow. I have access to lab equipment, so I am presently undertaking Vovin's tek; however, my Buchner filter does not seem properly suited to the job. This is what prompted me to wonder about oxidization because the liquid comes through the Buchner filter in bubbles. (It's a two-part filter and clearly air is being vacuumed in through the interface between the two parts.) Thus, the
liquid is being thoroughly exposed to air.
I have read that oxidization is an issue of concern while extracting DMT. I have also read--in the context of teks discussing hot water baths--that heat breaks down DMT; however, I've been told by a reputable source that you cannot get water hot enough to damage DMT.
What is the truth? At what point(s) during extraction is contact with air a concern? And for temperatures under 100C (90C in practice), do I need to concern myself at any points with heat breaking down what I'm after?
Background: I'm still acquainting myself with various extraction procedures. I completed Noman's tek and once got some nice crystals but there was a fair bit of yellow. I have access to lab equipment, so I am presently undertaking Vovin's tek; however, my Buchner filter does not seem properly suited to the job. This is what prompted me to wonder about oxidization because the liquid comes through the Buchner filter in bubbles. (It's a two-part filter and clearly air is being vacuumed in through the interface between the two parts.) Thus, the
liquid is being thoroughly exposed to air.
Hi there and welcome!
Heat is NO PROBLEM and oxidation is also NOT OCCURING.
Oxidation may occur this way:
- plain Crystals (no solvent) exposed to high temperatures > 100 °C or many more
- DMT exposed to direct UV light, after 24 hours ~ 10 % should be converted to N-Oxide
Heat is no problem as long as you are in aqueous solution, because even 100 °C cannot do anything to the molecule.
I would still only use 75 - 85 °C for extracting, as this is also already sufficient to get every goodies out of the bark.
No DMT gets oxidized when doing any regular TEK, so dont worry!
If it was slightly yellowish or not solid crystalline, thats just contaminations of inactive stuff. Vovins TEK should normally grant a cleaner product.
Heat is NO PROBLEM and oxidation is also NOT OCCURING.
Oxidation may occur this way:
- plain Crystals (no solvent) exposed to high temperatures > 100 °C or many more
- DMT exposed to direct UV light, after 24 hours ~ 10 % should be converted to N-Oxide
Heat is no problem as long as you are in aqueous solution, because even 100 °C cannot do anything to the molecule.
I would still only use 75 - 85 °C for extracting, as this is also already sufficient to get every goodies out of the bark.
No DMT gets oxidized when doing any regular TEK, so dont worry!
If it was slightly yellowish or not solid crystalline, thats just contaminations of inactive stuff. Vovins TEK should normally grant a cleaner product.
GLTASN
Rising Star
dsomethingt said:
I know a guy that did a hot water bath for his stb tek. he stored the bottles in hot tap(112-118F) water while waiting for the naphtha to separate. the results were not any more yellow than dmt ive seen posted here or, personal first hand exp.. his tek called for a wash and he was so happy with results he didn't re-x. so he didn't know that 85 was hot enough but it didn't affect the product thankfully.
dsomethingt
Rising Star
Brennendes Wasser said:
Thank you so much for this information! I will proceed with my mind at ease.
dsomethingt
Rising Star
My second newb question: I am unable to obtain naptha. I'm using n-heptane as my extraction solvent. I've read that it is less than ideal for defats. What alternatives should I consider?
And for the chemists... I'm following Vovin's tech. After repeated decanting and filtration of my acidified water/bark tea, it is colored but transparent. How can fats remain in this fairly clear aqueous solution?
Please and thank you.
And for the chemists... I'm following Vovin's tech. After repeated decanting and filtration of my acidified water/bark tea, it is colored but transparent. How can fats remain in this fairly clear aqueous solution?
Please and thank you.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
If you're using MHRB then defats are unnecessary. For other materials, heptane will work for defatting an acidic brew if you use it hot. A good alternative would be toluene but if you decide to use something other than heptane it depends on ease of availability. If you can't get some form of naphtha it's hard to see how any other kind of solvent would be any easier to find.dsomethingt said:
I'd suggest you attempt to familiarise yourself with the various uses of different kinds of solvents. That will help you to understand where to find them.
dsomethingt
Rising Star
Thanks very much for that information!downwardsfromzero said:
As for how naphtha can be unavailable while other solvents are: California.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
You'll be fine with heptane.
You might want to take a look at Extracting DMT with ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate
You might want to take a look at Extracting DMT with ethanol, vinegar and sodium carbonate
IceKnife
Rising Star
Had the opportunity to watch an extraction.
some powdered mhrb was extracted with q21q21's tek using d-limonene and then pulled with FASW.
The first 3 or 4 pulls were done over a period of about 6 hours. Those were evapped and a very thick mahogany jim jam was produced. The mix of bark sat damp with the lime for about 4 or 5 days after that and at the end, 2 pulls were done the same way as above.
The next morning, the evap tray had small whitish yellow crystals on it and barely any resin.
What happened here to make the pulls so different? Was it the time it sat basifying?
some powdered mhrb was extracted with q21q21's tek using d-limonene and then pulled with FASW.
The first 3 or 4 pulls were done over a period of about 6 hours. Those were evapped and a very thick mahogany jim jam was produced. The mix of bark sat damp with the lime for about 4 or 5 days after that and at the end, 2 pulls were done the same way as above.
The next morning, the evap tray had small whitish yellow crystals on it and barely any resin.
What happened here to make the pulls so different? Was it the time it sat basifying?
Maybe the goo stuff is more soluble in Limonene and at first you pull most of it out. Then the later pulls yield only (or mostly) the Spice ? :?
Yes N-Heptane is nice, but it was told that it pulls slightly more unwanted stuff. So maybe you may want to do a recrystallization afterwards. But actually you will find out yourself, if your spice is a goo or not by testing it yourself. Just proceed as normal and then you will see if you should take additional care afterwards by purifying it.
I dont know why it should be bad for defats. It still gets out the fats and then afterwards the Spice very nicely. Haven't tested myself though ... I guess there are no real alternatives, Heptane is the closest you get to Naphtha and there is no stuff that you would use instead. All other possible solvents pull much more goo (like Ether / DCM) and therefore Heptane is still good!
Also important: If you use MHRB (= from Mimosa Hostilis) then you dont even have to defat. Therefore no worries!
Yes colored but transparent is good! If its transparent it does not say anything about the content. So the colour is nothing that will tell you if there are fats or not. If it is indeed milky, then something is about to crash out and settle to the bottom, but this will not happen in your case.
Indeed some other things could cause a solution to become milky if they dissolve. But in the case of your acidic bark tea the inability to look through it is ONLY because of SMALL BARK PARTICLES that you need to filter out! After you filtered them out it will always be transparent and dark red, like red wine.
But now a third thing to consider: As I told you for MHRB you dont need a defat step, your question is even unnessesary to consider, because you will have NO fats that you need to take care of AND a clear (dark red) solution.
Yes N-Heptane is nice, but it was told that it pulls slightly more unwanted stuff. So maybe you may want to do a recrystallization afterwards. But actually you will find out yourself, if your spice is a goo or not by testing it yourself. Just proceed as normal and then you will see if you should take additional care afterwards by purifying it.
I dont know why it should be bad for defats. It still gets out the fats and then afterwards the Spice very nicely. Haven't tested myself though ... I guess there are no real alternatives, Heptane is the closest you get to Naphtha and there is no stuff that you would use instead. All other possible solvents pull much more goo (like Ether / DCM) and therefore Heptane is still good!
Also important: If you use MHRB (= from Mimosa Hostilis) then you dont even have to defat. Therefore no worries!
Yes colored but transparent is good! If its transparent it does not say anything about the content. So the colour is nothing that will tell you if there are fats or not. If it is indeed milky, then something is about to crash out and settle to the bottom, but this will not happen in your case.
Indeed some other things could cause a solution to become milky if they dissolve. But in the case of your acidic bark tea the inability to look through it is ONLY because of SMALL BARK PARTICLES that you need to filter out! After you filtered them out it will always be transparent and dark red, like red wine.
But now a third thing to consider: As I told you for MHRB you dont need a defat step, your question is even unnessesary to consider, because you will have NO fats that you need to take care of AND a clear (dark red) solution.
psychedOut
Rising Star
Swim is trying to extract dmt. He ended up using an STB Tek involving lye, naphtha, and mhrb. The problem arose when he took the naphtha solution off the top of the bottle and put it into the freezer for evaporation. Crystals inside the freezer formed and he took them out but they melted very quickly into a liquid after pulling them out. My main thought is that it is just a freebase, a liquid and I could soak it up in some sort of nontoxic leaf and then smoke it that way. The only thing that I'm worried about is that there is still naptha in this strange liquid and it might be really harmful to try and smoke.
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
This is my evap chamber
If I were to run this out side on a warm day, should I be concerned about possible fire hazards?
It has a computer fan inside that vent, pulling air into the site box with an air filter. The back of the box has medium size holes for exhaust ventilation.
The fan is fairly new, bought for a grow box and only used for one grow. The wires are twisted into a 12v adapter cord. Each wire pair is taped individually so they don't touch then the whole thing is twisted with tape to keep it together.
It may not be like that in the picture, but I just did it before I set it out side
I had it running, then left and got paranoid something might spark and blow lol
Rushed back and unplugged it, figured only keep fan running under supervision for now
If I were to run this out side on a warm day, should I be concerned about possible fire hazards?
It has a computer fan inside that vent, pulling air into the site box with an air filter. The back of the box has medium size holes for exhaust ventilation.
The fan is fairly new, bought for a grow box and only used for one grow. The wires are twisted into a 12v adapter cord. Each wire pair is taped individually so they don't touch then the whole thing is twisted with tape to keep it together.
It may not be like that in the picture, but I just did it before I set it out side
I had it running, then left and got paranoid something might spark and blow lol
Rushed back and unplugged it, figured only keep fan running under supervision for now
Attachments
Running Bear
Rising Star
psychedOut said:
It's hard to tell what you mean by strange liquid. Sometimes it's not dmt that you're seeing. it can be ice and other things from the naphtha and freezer. Dmt can be in other forms other than Crystal's. It can be a goo or a oil. You dont put it in your freezer to evaporate. You cover the dish and put it in your freezer for 12-24 hours to precipitate the crystals out of the naphtha. I would give it 24 hours because there's no reason to hurry. After the 24 hours use a Turkey baster and carefully remove the naphtha from the tray. I like to siphon from the edge of the glass tray to avoid pulling any dmt. Once the naphtha is removed quickly put the tray in front of a fan to evaporate the rest of the solvent. Without pictures there's really no way I can help you.
psychedOut
Rising Star
Running Bear said:
It's a very brown liquid he let it sit in the freezer for probably about 48 hours but just pulled it out not letting it sit in front of a fan or anything. Here is a of what the substance looks like after It was pulled from the freezer and melted.
Before it melted into the liquid it kinda looked like snow at least that's the closest thing I can compare it to.
Attachments
Trev_sunyata
Rising Star
psychedOut said:
If there is residual naphtha on the jar it will dissolve the crystals as it warms, just a few drops are enough to lose it, put it back in the freezer if that happens.
When I pull my jars out I pour off the solvent into another jar right away but slowly so that the crystals don't pour too, on the ledge of the open freezer so it doesn't warm. I don't mind losing a few crystals in this step because I reuse it one more time then add it to a scrap jar that I collect up and evaporate.
Anyway, after you pour it off, balance the top spice jar at a pouring angle on the new scrap drip jar, so as the trace amounts of naphtha begin to drip down there sides, it will pour out, not pool at the bottom with your spice!
Running Bear
Rising Star
psychedOut said:
So you're telling me that he didn't let the naphtha evaporate at all? It's important not to rush this stuff. You want to do a lot of research before you try these extractions yourself. There's even a couple extraction videos online. Theres a food safe extraction video on YouTube called gordotek. You might be a visual learner so I would take a look.
Running Bear
Rising Star
I hate sending you to YouTube but I don't want you to hurt yourself. Some people just can't learn off of this thing because they don't feel comfortable without seeing someone else do it. I was kind of like that.. Its a food safe extraction so it's great for a beginner
Hi there!
So I dont know any TEKs that tell to do stuff with ammonium hydroxide. But if you could tell at what stage it should be used it may be possible to give an answer.
You say *washing out*. Does this mean extract the DMT from the bark with water + ammonium hydroxide?
Or is this a washing process at the end with your Naphtha? Or something different :surprised
But it should never have any impact on the trip quality.
Well ... if something is designed to get a purer product, then the *Quality* is higher. But even without knowing what it is designed for, it is still 100% safe that it will not be left in your product and therefore not affect the trip by itself in any case.
But maybe you can give a link to the TEK and then it may be possible to get an idea of what is done there.
So I dont know any TEKs that tell to do stuff with ammonium hydroxide. But if you could tell at what stage it should be used it may be possible to give an answer.
You say *washing out*. Does this mean extract the DMT from the bark with water + ammonium hydroxide?
Or is this a washing process at the end with your Naphtha? Or something different :surprised
But it should never have any impact on the trip quality.
Well ... if something is designed to get a purer product, then the *Quality* is higher. But even without knowing what it is designed for, it is still 100% safe that it will not be left in your product and therefore not affect the trip by itself in any case.
But maybe you can give a link to the TEK and then it may be possible to get an idea of what is done there.