psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
-
Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).
official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dmt
Have a naptha pull thats my last pull from a long worked over STB, upon freeze precip, after some evap, I am noticing a darker reddish substance starting to form, seems "liquidy" along with a hazy cloud - assumning that DMT crystal + what else? there was no basified liquid in the solvent prior to evaping/freeze precipitation.
This a question for one of the more acacia-focussed threads, but the red part sounds promising to me. If you can get hold of a small UV light, shining that onto various cracked-open parts of the material may give you some additional clues through fluorescence. There's a discussion on this somewhere as well - maybe here, but one of our more dedicated acacia growers might well know… @CheeseCat, @acacian or @_Trip_ being some good candidates. Anyhow, here were the search results:
Search
forum.dmt-nexus.me
I've a pile of home-grown acacia twigs to sort out (I forgot the species, but it was selected for having a chance of being active) so I'll be interested to see how you get along with this. Have your twigs dried out yet? That'll make a big difference in whether you're even able to separate the different bark layers.
Thanks yeah checked out the acacia grow thread got a couple-months old acuminata, posted a picture of over there, to answer your question no my twigs etc arent dried but I just scrape off/ separate layers with a knife takes time but ey all good things take time. Dont have a UV light however the red inner-core of the bark looks kinda shiny so maybe that's a good sign, Acacia Acuminata is reported to have 0.7% to 1.6% DMT in the bark so if SWIM has a successful extraction with the inner red stuff will let you knowThis a question for one of the more acacia-focussed threads, but the red part sounds promising to me. If you can get hold of a small UV light, shining that onto various cracked-open parts of the material may give you some additional clues through fluorescence. There's a discussion on this somewhere as well - maybe here, but one of our more dedicated acacia growers might well know… @CheeseCat, @acacian or @_Trip_ being some good candidates. Anyhow, here were the search results:
Search
I've a pile of home-grown acacia twigs to sort out (I forgot the species, but it was selected for having a chance of being active) so I'll be interested to see how you get along with this. Have your twigs dried out yet? That'll make a big difference in whether you're even able to separate the different bark layers.
EDIT: Wow that UV thing is a good read I needa get my hands on one of those lights
Last edited:
I get a lot of mileage out of a kids' "secret message" spy pen light, at least for harmala alkaloids. They're only deep violet, so their efficacy with simple indoles remains to be seen. Cobbling something together with an actual UV LED would be a matter of just swapping the LEDs over. [Edit: that's assuming they're of a compatible voltage range, which they mostly should be.]
For best results I've used them in very dim to dark ambient lighting conditions. Here's how some Peganum harmala debris shows up under the spy pen - conditions could have been darker, fluorescence is mostly washed out by daylight unless you look a bit closer.
Last edited:
Hey @_Aurelias, with regard to the bark, you can strip the skin from larger branches. I wouldn't bother doing this to small sticks and twigs though, you'll be there all day. Just pull the bark off till you get to the white/beige layer and that's it. You can then dry everything (bark strips/sticks/twigs) in preparation for the next stage. If the broken branch you mentioned is very old the bark will likely be dry/brittle and might not be suitable.
With the toy "UV" torch, we're seeing a bit of a glow from a simple tryptamine at low concentration. The camera doesn't pick it up so well, but there are some brighter specks among the greenish-yellow cast. The purple-pink is from the torch itself, so ignore that.
Thanks, yeah dont strip the twigs i just break em up n use em like that but the bark I have isn’t tooo old, have started an extraction based off no man’s tek so fingers crossed keen to see the results
get yourself a large volumetric pipette, or just, a really high capacity dropper + a chemistry pipette pump bulb
you pinch one valve, it deflates when squeezed, let go, and you open the other, now you can gently meter the suction and suck up a controlled amount of liquid. opening the first valve also lets you drip with precision too.
combine this with a fat stubby pipette and you are golden. alternatively, if you are willing to tolerate the length, try a volumetric pipette, its the one with the innflated middle part. they are insanely high precision, you wouldnt think it but reading volumes with graduated vessels is actually really difficult to do. a volumetric pipette lets you measure a single point to a high degree of certainty, its typically used to measure density, the error read on the miniscus layer can be the difference between a saturated and dilute aqueous solution. none of these are expensive.
additionally, having precision measurements available, and especially if you buy a pipette set with extra low volume pipettes, enables titration and precision pH control, which can let you do things like adjust your pH to between a value where certain adverse things do not occur, like tannins precipitating, or sap gelling up.
Lastly, do not add dry lye to solution, its not likely to fry your DMT since that would require kind of salt-lava-lamping it through an existing freebase layer, but as a general practice its a bad idea. it can become encapsulated with dirt and gunk, and dmt that finds itself stuck to it will polymerize or degrade. freebasing dmt doesnt require an ultra saturated solution but when i need one i generally just pour my desired quantity on an ice cube. Otherwise, there exists salts, where multiple alkaline anions share a single, or fewer number of acid ions to acheive perfect neutralization. Like how sodium bisulfate exists which is just sulfuric acid bound to sodium monosulfate, or how citric acid is said to have 3 ph's, due to the formation of mono, di and tri-citrate, there also exists the alkaline equivalent. in a way, thats what sodium carbonate is to bicarbonate, since its two sodiums sharing a carbonate, wheras bicarbonate is just one. anyway, sodium-phosphate acidic salts and basic salts exist, they deliver a precise pH, and if you know the molecular loading of your soup (how many moles of base needed to bring pH to a given point, or just 14), you can still just base it 75% of the way with your hydroxide of choice in a known insufficient mass/volume, then do the remainder with something incapable of overshooting. in theory if you are gentle enough with pH you can selectively base out each individual compound one by one, in practice thats unreasonable, but it absolutely can be used to seperate dmt from tannins. this is where the benefits of carbonate based dry-extraction teks come from, in part.
-edit-
forgot to mention, if you have a large syringe, you can always just, not let the naptha touch the plunger by pulling in some air first. can also wash out the grease, though sterile ones for human use are not allowed to be greased. reusable animal ones are tho. syringes work fine through an air gap, so in a pinch, just do that. Also dont get any of the types of glass syringe. including ground glass ones. they self drain if you dont hold the plunger, liquid dripping out pulls enough suction to pull the plunger down with considerable force. they are just a hassle to use.
you pinch one valve, it deflates when squeezed, let go, and you open the other, now you can gently meter the suction and suck up a controlled amount of liquid. opening the first valve also lets you drip with precision too.
combine this with a fat stubby pipette and you are golden. alternatively, if you are willing to tolerate the length, try a volumetric pipette, its the one with the innflated middle part. they are insanely high precision, you wouldnt think it but reading volumes with graduated vessels is actually really difficult to do. a volumetric pipette lets you measure a single point to a high degree of certainty, its typically used to measure density, the error read on the miniscus layer can be the difference between a saturated and dilute aqueous solution. none of these are expensive.
additionally, having precision measurements available, and especially if you buy a pipette set with extra low volume pipettes, enables titration and precision pH control, which can let you do things like adjust your pH to between a value where certain adverse things do not occur, like tannins precipitating, or sap gelling up.
Lastly, do not add dry lye to solution, its not likely to fry your DMT since that would require kind of salt-lava-lamping it through an existing freebase layer, but as a general practice its a bad idea. it can become encapsulated with dirt and gunk, and dmt that finds itself stuck to it will polymerize or degrade. freebasing dmt doesnt require an ultra saturated solution but when i need one i generally just pour my desired quantity on an ice cube. Otherwise, there exists salts, where multiple alkaline anions share a single, or fewer number of acid ions to acheive perfect neutralization. Like how sodium bisulfate exists which is just sulfuric acid bound to sodium monosulfate, or how citric acid is said to have 3 ph's, due to the formation of mono, di and tri-citrate, there also exists the alkaline equivalent. in a way, thats what sodium carbonate is to bicarbonate, since its two sodiums sharing a carbonate, wheras bicarbonate is just one. anyway, sodium-phosphate acidic salts and basic salts exist, they deliver a precise pH, and if you know the molecular loading of your soup (how many moles of base needed to bring pH to a given point, or just 14), you can still just base it 75% of the way with your hydroxide of choice in a known insufficient mass/volume, then do the remainder with something incapable of overshooting. in theory if you are gentle enough with pH you can selectively base out each individual compound one by one, in practice thats unreasonable, but it absolutely can be used to seperate dmt from tannins. this is where the benefits of carbonate based dry-extraction teks come from, in part.
-edit-
forgot to mention, if you have a large syringe, you can always just, not let the naptha touch the plunger by pulling in some air first. can also wash out the grease, though sterile ones for human use are not allowed to be greased. reusable animal ones are tho. syringes work fine through an air gap, so in a pinch, just do that. Also dont get any of the types of glass syringe. including ground glass ones. they self drain if you dont hold the plunger, liquid dripping out pulls enough suction to pull the plunger down with considerable force. they are just a hassle to use.
Last edited:
Stick it in the freezer for a while then poke it until it solidifies, or absorb it onto herbs. Two ways among various others. Creativity is also permitted.
