psilocybin
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This is so helpful! Thank you! I am trying to find the Max Ion Tek but it looks like it's locked? What do you think of the Hybrid ATB Salt Tek? Is it similar?1. I am not sure it matters. Mine is from Mexico if I am not mistaken. 1.5%-2% yield.
2. Wash is often a rinse, a purification gets rid of plant fats and trace alkaloids, re-x can do some of what a purification would do, and is often used to clean up DMT, but it also used to play with making bigger crystals. They are all ways of "cleaning" your DMT. And yes.
3. A method to remove plant fats from DMT, DMT saturated solvent, or dirty solvent. You usually don't use any plant matter.
4. 18-24 hours. Longer wait is more time for the molecules to bind into crystals, "crashing out."
5. Yield is usually more about execution of a given method and bark content. It's the bark that's potent. The molecule is the molecule, it's potency is constant. I use Max Ion.
It just sounds like you have more pulls to do. Happy extracting.
One love
sparkly! woooohooo!
Hello
Just finished my first Max Ion tek and anxiously awaiting the results. Here are some new questions that I encountered during the process:
How can I tell when I have exhausted the MHRB? How do I know when to stop doing pulls?
Will a microwave change the properties of any of the chemicals, such as deionized water of naptha?
What sort of consistency should I expect with an ATB tek after the acidification stage? I read that it should be 1 part vinegar for 3 parts water. Is this correct?
If my mix registers a ph of 14 during basification, is it okay to add water to bring it back down to 12?
What is a reasonable amount of Naptha to use with a mix that measures around 1500ml?
I noticed that some teks call for hours of time between pulls, and some say you can do them back to back. What is the benefit of waiting between pulls, after the naptha/mix has been agitated? what happens if I just pull the naptha as soon as it separates to the top each time?
Has anyone swapped out the vinegar for phosphoric acid during acidification stage? If so, was it worth it?
DO NOT MICROWAVE NAPHTHA!!Hello
Just finished my first Max Ion tek and anxiously awaiting the results. Here are some new questions that I encountered during the process:
How can I tell when I have exhausted the MHRB? How do I know when to stop doing pulls?
Will a microwave change the properties of any of the chemicals, such as deionized water of naptha?
What sort of consistency should I expect with an ATB tek after the acidification stage? I read that it should be 1 part vinegar for 3 parts water. Is this correct?
If my mix registers a ph of 14 during basification, is it okay to add water to bring it back down to 12?
What is a reasonable amount of Naptha to use with a mix that measures around 1500ml?
I noticed that some teks call for hours of time between pulls, and some say you can do them back to back. What is the benefit of waiting between pulls, after the naptha/mix has been agitated? what happens if I just pull the naptha as soon as it separates to the top each time?
Has anyone swapped out the vinegar for phosphoric acid during acidification stage? If so, was it worth it?
Will come back when I more time to answer the rest but please never microwave naphtha.
Hello!Hello
Great choice
You should have most everything after five pulls. To be sure, you can do a sixth but freeze precip it separately. If your sixth pull weighs less than 10% of your first 5 pulls combined, you've pretty much exhausted it
Yes, but not in a good way.
Never ever ever ever ever ever ever ...
Microwave naphtha.
iirc there are microwave teks out there but they only ever microwave the water.
Thats excessive for the vinegar. Also, acid isnt really needed for mhrb, it's only required if you need to defat your material
I dont think that will work. At least not at any reasonable volume
It's less about the mix volume and more about the vessel diameter imo. but aim for 30 to 50 ml per pull.
Waiting for your naphtha to settle should only take 5 to 10 min with max ion and appropriate mixing technique. you can then pull immediately. its a good practice to do 3 pulls pretty much immediately after the initial base soak then wait 8 to 24 hrs to do the remaining pulls. the delay allows time for the base to free up more target alkaloid from the bark, increasing the yield of your final pulls
I imagine someone has. try the search function
Good luck!
use a hot water bath. microwaving naptha is bad. the microwaves could randomly ionize it, which, in the gas phase means plasma, which means explosion.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
So last night I soaked my powder and added my base. Instead of adding the naphtha I fell asleep and now my jar is cold. Do I need to reheat my jar before adding the naphtha? Or can I just add it cold and begin the roll on my jar? Can I just add another shot of lye to get it heated up good again? Also once I add my naphtha how long do I need to roll and let it separate before my first pull? It’s been a year or so since I’ve done this but I’ve never let my jar go cold before I added the naphtha? Please advise….
froggydays
Esteemed member
You can use a hot water bath to slightly heat the jar for like 15 minutes.
Don't boil or overheat because the lye will further increase the solution temperature to over 100 degrees.
Thank you!use a hot water bath. microwaving naptha is bad. the microwaves could randomly ionize it, which, in the gas phase means plasma, which means explosion.
in leu of real chemistry equipment like a condenser, try improvising a cold trap using a sock/towel and a chunk of ice. cold wet fabric also resists naptha vapors a good deal without building pressure in a way that causes it to buildup, it just adds harmless resistance. though be mindful this also gives naptha a way to condense and dribble down outside the vessel.
also, naptha is hexane and heptane generally, or isomers that may as well be the same, and in low quality stuff, some higher chain length stuff too. hexane boils at a lower temp than heptane. the longer your naptha boils, the greater the heptane to hexane ratio becomes, and consequently, the less DMT can be dissolved in your naptha you can have, it wont really release that dmt back into the water but it will stop solvating it effectively, slowling the rate it draws it in. it can be disadvantageous to let it go so long the volume changes appreciably. if you find you dont get results if you arent at the boiling point of your naptha, keep this in mind that theres little benefit to the massive brain cell death caused by hexane fumes from boiling naptha.
Also, i have used phosphoric acid. it is not great. theres a dozen salt complexes it gives, it makes the viscosity of the fluid thicker, and salts like trisodium phosphate have chelative effects, causing transient solids to form as it encounters trace metal or calcium. to reach total acidification requires possibly more than 1 mol of phosphoric acid because equillibriums may establish between minerals, the dmt, and acid, resulting in things like poly-anion-phosphates, like, a 1-dmt-1-phosphate might be acidic enough that 2 DMTs could share a phosphate, or 1 dmt could take 2 phosphates while freebase is still there, your ph will be all over the place and an acidic solution might still hold freebase because the poor solubility/emulsion problems it gives allow for chaos. fumaric acid does something similar, as does citric. ultimately you might need everything to hold the maximum number of phosphate ions before you can trust the water solubility to be ionizing dmt sufficiently that it can migrate out of the resinous goo soaked in the bark particles it exists in.
use hydrochloric or acetic acid. your chosen acid should have the highest possible water solubility. acetic acid excluded, avoid carboxylic acids.
phosphoric acid by the way is benign at room temp but it can attack silica (glass, soda glass so bad it might crack it) when heated, and stainless steel components too. basic phosphate is "soapy".
sulfuric acid would be good but you have a mix of realy soluble and insoluble things, i wouldnt touch a sulfate-soup that wasnt VERY thoroughly filtered down to a nice clear tea, nor would i dare try concentrating it further.
you can use HCl if you go to a brew shop and buy a huge connical flask, they cost like $20/L of capacity. alternatively do what i do, go to a camping shop and buy a billy, which, is, an enamel coated pot. provided it never gets chipped, the enamel will happily tolerate very dilute hydrochloric acid, or any acid, even phosphoric for a while. also means you can use any acetic acid concentration you want at any amount of heat without leeching stainless metals like chrome into the soup. its great for when you want to go out camping in an acacia forest, and make some fresh acacia soup
you can spot problematic acids by how foamy they will let your soup become, if you want to try random stuff. if it lets it get all foamy its not lowering the surface tension much, and isnt penetrating cells well, besides also leaving lipids and fats in tact to form emulsions and protective capsules.
lastly, one reason to wait between pulls is that no amount of intimate stirring and shaking is going to coalesque the ultra fine droplets of dmt in naptha, besides time and heat. also, the dmt is slowed by having to pass through solids. or particulates. depending on the kind of tek you went with. with direct extraction of basic bark soup, imagine that the naptha only strips the outer layer of the bark, it needs time to wick up more dmt to the surface.
for a clean filtered soup, big droplets simply will not collide with small ones.
but you can tell wether or not its neccesary based on, how long does it take for a rainbow oily layer to form after all the naptha evaporated off the soup. if you already filtered it all and you havent got a slurry, you can probably just go back to back though, then when you finish add a splash of xylene or some water-washed paint thinner toluene (water removes the ethanol and acetone), let that sit for a few days, extract later and see what boiling naptha can pull out of that, unlike naptha, toluene is actually a strong solvent.
it may harm some amount of the dmt, its unclear to what degree because while dissolving, its not going to be hot and concentrated enough everywhere at the same time to rip it apart, but it will do it to a non-zero amount. its not a severe risk or outcome, its just generally not good to do, theres no benefit, just potential for problems.
right now on aliexpress you can buy a shortpath distillation aparatus for $10aud, in the 24/40 joint size, its compatible with 24/29. theres also for $30 these cheap essential oil kits which like the shortpath, combine several parts of your distillation aparatus into one or two pieces. the shortpath is your (nearly uselessly small) fractionating colulmn, distillation head + condenser + vacuum reciever, its designed for vacuum distillation, so the expanding vapor has to expand a minimal, short, distance to reach the condenser, but i found if you can perfectly seal everything they make these great setups where you apply vacuum, seal it off, and the condensation of the vapor drives the vacuum down, often even further than it started, i once used a hand pump down to -650mmHg and the ultimate vacuum got down to -710mmHg distilling toluene i think, whatever it was, was 30-40C, condenser 5C. since its sealed off, no vapor escapes and it distills at the exact speed that the condenser can condnense, but maintaining the seal is not easy to do. The only reason i recommend he shortpath at all is i do almost everything by vacuum now, and for convenience sake i usually use the shortpath, it *can* do anything, it shouldnt, but it can. vacuum isnt needed btw, the other reason i suggest it is if you connect the vacuum adapter to a hose going outside, no fumes, but even i wouldnt actually try doing that. not with naptha at least, ethyl acetate perhaps, or an alcohol, but nothing toxic in my homes living areas or kitchen.
the essential oil one is a flask with distillation head attached, and the other part is a graham spiral condenser.
supplying the water needed for condensation is not hard. the heat in either case would be supplied with hot water.
the thing with the shortpath is, your condenser will have to be very cold to process bulk solvent, its not designed for high volume.
If you are finding naptha to be too expensive, consider extracting with a better NP solvent instead like toluene, you need far less volume, then you can dissolve the residue in a minimum amount of naptha instead of using an initial large amount, ultimately you must crystalize from hexane, heptane or naptha.
for a truly solvent-waste/evaporation free approach, FASA/FASI instead, thats where you add fumaric acid saturated IPA or acetone to your NP solvent and it immediately turns into a cloud of DMT fumarate crystals. afterwards you can acid wash the alcohol out of the NP solvent and reuse it again infinitely. funny enough if you so cared to, the fumaric acid is also infinitely reusable too. since undesirable stuff will eventually crash out of naptha, the one thing is, you probably cant use naptha then, would have to be literally any other NP solvent like toluene, xylene, i think limonene is used too.
ethyl acetate will deplete through hydrolysis, also idk if fumarate crashes out of it, but it, or limonene, would be suitable for indoor apartment-safe extraction. if you can source a big ole cheap 25kg sack of potassium carbonate, that also opens up the possibility of using plain old ethanol or IPA as your extraction solvent too, especially IPA, its very easily partitioned out of water with salt and potassium carbonate, but, the alcohol isnt reusable unlike limonene.
if its just a matter of cost, look up industrial or commercial cleaning chemical supplies near you, there will be products with dumb coded names like "emco-320", various customized degreasers are literally just re-ratio'd naptha, check the MSDS to confirm, but as a general rule, you should be able to acquire naptha for twice the price of gasoline at any given place in the developed world. "gunwash" is a common formulation, as is non-aerosol brake cleaner, they are more or less standard naptha with more or less hexane vs heptane, but again, check MSDS.
another funny fact; the difference between 91 octane and 98 octane gasoline is the 98 octane had all its light naptha stripped out, for the most part. fractionally distilling ethanol free gasoline up to 70C then pouring the leftovers into back into ones fuel tank at a rate not exceeding 1/6th, or just straight up using them in a lawn mower or something similar, small 2-stroke gardening stuff, youd see little to no difference or tax on the engine, it may even run better depending on the engines compression ratio. Since it was distilled, it wont include anything leaving residue due to non-volatility. parrafin oil, the one called "baby oil" is in fact not made from babies, but actually is a specific fraction in diesel and kerosene. we drink diesel (liquid paraffin) as a laxative sold in pharmacies, one day people will look back at us no differently to those who centuries before us used mercuric chloride for its "stimulant effects", or to paint our faces with pigments derived from it and lead.
Nontheless, if you really want to poormax things, $80 gets you a full fractional distillation kit from somewhere like vevor, its the best moneysaving investment you could make, then just twice-distill a narrow cut of the light-naptha range from gasoline destined for your mower or line trimmer. every 10L of gasoline bought includes maybe 750ml of cheap general purpose naptha that has a toxicity lying somewhere between paint thinner and gasoline itself, it will have other NP compounds in it that will prevent good crystalization though and it will be somewhat less selective, the hazards of recycling it are also pretty much the same as for any other solvent, using 14/23 or 19/26 size glassware instead of 24/29 decimates any explosion hazard. its also literally what naptha once was, or certain industrial pet-ethers are in some places or some applications, personally, if not for the fact i distill my naptha, id sooner use the light naptha fraction from gasoline than undistilled hardwarestore naptha, but, i work in a fumehood and i dont hover over a hot pot of solvent with a turkey baster, i use a seperatory funnel and dont really get any exposure to solvent fumes except when i open the bottle. i dont say this to endorse or encourage this sort of poormaxing approach, i just wanted to include it so people can expand their perspective a little.
one last little tidbit; working with hexane rich naptha (the normal kind) caused me sufficient brain damage from several close consecutive exposures, that according to a doctor, was like post-brain cell death depression, the severity of the exposure being akin to a chemically induced concussion. I got really depressed after a busy 2 weeks where i got a bit high off the fumes a couple times, hexane has a threshhold where it pretty much obliterates brain matter once you reach it, and depression is one of the symptoms one can expect when you kill off as much brain matter all at once as a concussion does. i didnt even notice getting high on the fumes, a single beer can get me more tipsy, and this was ordinary diggers brand shellite.
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Thank you very much for the extensive reply. I was looking at those essential oil distillation kits and didn’t know if it would work.
That being said. Last night I half convinced myself to keep an eye out for a cheapish rotovap- you didn’t mention those but I’m assuming due to cost. Is there anything else I should know if I do go that route? Would it work? Could I distill indefinitely with that to get crystals/good (assuming I could get out of the container).
Secondary question: I’ve been using fancy lab naptha - is the normal vm$p from the store as clean for this purpose ? I couldn’t really find a good answer to that.
Thank you- appreciate your time
certain things will interfere with dmt crystalization, more or less having to do with how well they dissolve the dmt. naptha, hexane and heptane dissolve dmt poorly, while also dissolving common contaminants moderately better, allowing for crystals. if the dmt is pure enough it just recrystalizes out of itself, you see this with FASA despite no solvent being used at the end. its also why the solvent for mimosa bark doesnt matter a great deal.
any naptha that is distilled will work perfectly, so it doesnt really matter that it came from a high grade source or not. the only 2 things that can cause it not to work, is how much heavy cuts and non volatiles make it in, i.e residue, and heavy oil like paraffin or the bottles plasticizers. after a single distillation up to the boiling point of heptane they would be gone, so you just kinda sacrifice the final 5-10% the first time you distill it. if you can evaporate a bunch and it leaves no residue on a clean surface, its fine, similarly if it evaporates readily and doesnt show oil that takes a while longer to go. sometimes the plastic residues can also be eliminated just by doing an acid wash, theres teks for this.
you can infinitely recycle naptha but you will progressively end up with just heptane, which isnt a bad thing. for efficiency sake it might be better to just get 100% heptane, its BP is higher so its easier to distill, you lose less to fumes, and i believe its more selective, plus its stable at a higher temp so its easier to dissolve the dmt, like, if theres a curve for mobility in base-soup, hexane, limiting the temp to its BP is on the low side of the curve, while heptane, is on the high side. plus heptane wont cause brain damage. like, its not especially neurotoxic.
to get your goo out of the container, the idea is you would distill off the minimum needed to still remove it, with rotovaps the point is to distill off something you cant otherwise boil away without it co-solving or degrading your product. then you add something like DCM, or ether to rinse it out which doesnt need help to get dried under air or normal vacuum.
rotovaps also distill very quickly letting you boil down huge dilute volumes, again, with less steam distillation of products ordinarily volatile in the solvent, none of these apply to dmt, your naptha pulls are relatively small and concentrated as well, if your pulls arent approaching saturation, then it has room for non-dmt stuff and the purity of each pull could be observed to be, consistent, and bad. the first pull should obviously be the highest, and may or may not be the cleanest. but the second pull should certainly be more pure, and somewhere down the line something else starts showing up as the DMT tapers off. this is also why using a strong solvent results in lots of other crap. its not selective and its capacity is too great. but, it makes it easier to fractionally pull from that residue in a nice small controlled environment instead of pulling from litres of emulsive soup.
just to explicitly say as well, you wouldnt, or shouldnt expect, a rotovap to provide crystaline residue. crystals need a very still, VERY slowly changing environment to form properly. another thing alt solvents do that naptha doesnt, is sustain supersaturation. with naptha, you can dissolve more dmt in it than it can hold at a given temp. thats why crystals dont form instantly the second it cools in the freezer. it allows crystals to form at their own pace, otherwise, you get oiling out where its instantaneous, i.e the precipitation of milk/globules of oil.
this is like that effect where bottled water cooled to 0C wont freeze until disturbed by you opening the bottle, also commonly seen with certain soft drinks. if left undisturbed, this is how water forms pure glassy ice with almost no gas bubbles fogging it up, the forces cause a seperation between the water that does and doesnt hold dissolved gas.
if you precipitate by evaporation instead its still the same effect just driven by driving the concentration up rather than the solubility down. i prefer the latter since moisture content doesnt factor in so much. But i more prefer not to do either and instead just do the fumarate. lately ive been playing around with oxalates too, and eyeing other carboxylic acids. oxalates specifically because they are generally insoluble in everything, so finding something they would dissolve in like DMF im hoping, theres a high likelyhood of growing like, actually big clean crystals that can exclude even other amines to a degree. theres literature on using them sometimes because they can withstand such aggressive solvent washing with almost no loss, and oxalates have different properties based on if something is a primary or secondary amine, possibly allowing the seperation of NMT which is considered a major reason behind why acacia derived dmt wont crystalize readily.
one last thing; if you get a cheap rotovap make sure the gasket seals are not obsoleted. i got parts of a buchi for real cheap after getting the other parts for free, and then i realized the reason its so easy to buy things like the condenser and etc is its like $200 to buy the gaskets, theres no aftermarket ones that work reliably, its all just residual scalped oem stuff. you pay through the nose too for little joints, clips, rings, etc thats why something like the R100/200 series condensers can be had for like $60 sometimes. its a 2 pound sophisticated piece of glass that is useless without that one little FKM-ptfe composite seal. if you want to mess around, you know, if you stick a bump trap on your flask, then a condenser, or better yet, a cold-trap on that, and pull a vacuum, and close off the vacuum line, you have a perfectly symmetrical arrangement that can be rotated without needing any permanent lines connected to it. condensate would not back flow into the flask until the bump trap is more than half way full. look up a bump trap youll see what i mean. incidentally rotovaps themselves also use those exact bump traps in that same way for the same reason.
any naptha that is distilled will work perfectly, so it doesnt really matter that it came from a high grade source or not. the only 2 things that can cause it not to work, is how much heavy cuts and non volatiles make it in, i.e residue, and heavy oil like paraffin or the bottles plasticizers. after a single distillation up to the boiling point of heptane they would be gone, so you just kinda sacrifice the final 5-10% the first time you distill it. if you can evaporate a bunch and it leaves no residue on a clean surface, its fine, similarly if it evaporates readily and doesnt show oil that takes a while longer to go. sometimes the plastic residues can also be eliminated just by doing an acid wash, theres teks for this.
you can infinitely recycle naptha but you will progressively end up with just heptane, which isnt a bad thing. for efficiency sake it might be better to just get 100% heptane, its BP is higher so its easier to distill, you lose less to fumes, and i believe its more selective, plus its stable at a higher temp so its easier to dissolve the dmt, like, if theres a curve for mobility in base-soup, hexane, limiting the temp to its BP is on the low side of the curve, while heptane, is on the high side. plus heptane wont cause brain damage. like, its not especially neurotoxic.
to get your goo out of the container, the idea is you would distill off the minimum needed to still remove it, with rotovaps the point is to distill off something you cant otherwise boil away without it co-solving or degrading your product. then you add something like DCM, or ether to rinse it out which doesnt need help to get dried under air or normal vacuum.
rotovaps also distill very quickly letting you boil down huge dilute volumes, again, with less steam distillation of products ordinarily volatile in the solvent, none of these apply to dmt, your naptha pulls are relatively small and concentrated as well, if your pulls arent approaching saturation, then it has room for non-dmt stuff and the purity of each pull could be observed to be, consistent, and bad. the first pull should obviously be the highest, and may or may not be the cleanest. but the second pull should certainly be more pure, and somewhere down the line something else starts showing up as the DMT tapers off. this is also why using a strong solvent results in lots of other crap. its not selective and its capacity is too great. but, it makes it easier to fractionally pull from that residue in a nice small controlled environment instead of pulling from litres of emulsive soup.
just to explicitly say as well, you wouldnt, or shouldnt expect, a rotovap to provide crystaline residue. crystals need a very still, VERY slowly changing environment to form properly. another thing alt solvents do that naptha doesnt, is sustain supersaturation. with naptha, you can dissolve more dmt in it than it can hold at a given temp. thats why crystals dont form instantly the second it cools in the freezer. it allows crystals to form at their own pace, otherwise, you get oiling out where its instantaneous, i.e the precipitation of milk/globules of oil.
this is like that effect where bottled water cooled to 0C wont freeze until disturbed by you opening the bottle, also commonly seen with certain soft drinks. if left undisturbed, this is how water forms pure glassy ice with almost no gas bubbles fogging it up, the forces cause a seperation between the water that does and doesnt hold dissolved gas.
if you precipitate by evaporation instead its still the same effect just driven by driving the concentration up rather than the solubility down. i prefer the latter since moisture content doesnt factor in so much. But i more prefer not to do either and instead just do the fumarate. lately ive been playing around with oxalates too, and eyeing other carboxylic acids. oxalates specifically because they are generally insoluble in everything, so finding something they would dissolve in like DMF im hoping, theres a high likelyhood of growing like, actually big clean crystals that can exclude even other amines to a degree. theres literature on using them sometimes because they can withstand such aggressive solvent washing with almost no loss, and oxalates have different properties based on if something is a primary or secondary amine, possibly allowing the seperation of NMT which is considered a major reason behind why acacia derived dmt wont crystalize readily.
one last thing; if you get a cheap rotovap make sure the gasket seals are not obsoleted. i got parts of a buchi for real cheap after getting the other parts for free, and then i realized the reason its so easy to buy things like the condenser and etc is its like $200 to buy the gaskets, theres no aftermarket ones that work reliably, its all just residual scalped oem stuff. you pay through the nose too for little joints, clips, rings, etc thats why something like the R100/200 series condensers can be had for like $60 sometimes. its a 2 pound sophisticated piece of glass that is useless without that one little FKM-ptfe composite seal. if you want to mess around, you know, if you stick a bump trap on your flask, then a condenser, or better yet, a cold-trap on that, and pull a vacuum, and close off the vacuum line, you have a perfectly symmetrical arrangement that can be rotated without needing any permanent lines connected to it. condensate would not back flow into the flask until the bump trap is more than half way full. look up a bump trap youll see what i mean. incidentally rotovaps themselves also use those exact bump traps in that same way for the same reason.
