Reasonable yield expectations

[Transform]

What kind of water did you use? Distilled or tap? Tap water contains all kinds of nasties, especially in certain regions of the world, even highly developed ones *looking at you USA*.

I work in a utility. Steam turbines, ect. We have a water treatment facility that uses big reverse osmosis filters to treat the make up water. I have done jugs that I keep filled from there. Whenever something calls for clean water, I have ultra clean, almost 100% pure water

 

[Norolinda]

I obviously can’t read well. Thanks for pointing that out

 

[CokFLHX]

What kind of water did you use? Distilled or tap? Tap water contains all kinds of nasties, especially in certain regions of the world, even highly developed ones *looking at you USA*.

I use RO water from work. I work at a power plant that has a waste water building that treats water with a huge reverse osmosis filter. The water I get is 100% pure water

 

[sux]

Only use deionised water. Cheap everywhere. R.O. water is not pure, even if your meter shows zero Total Disolved Solids.

 

[Transform]

Only use deionised water. Cheap everywhere. R.O. water is not pure, even if your meter shows zero Total Disolved Solids.

Care to outline the difference between the two? How is the deionized water produced? Why would that process give a purer product than reverse osmosis?

deionization does not significantly remove uncharged organic molecules, viruses, or bacteria, except by incidental trapping in the resin.

 

[CokFLHX]

Only use deionised water. Cheap everywhere. R.O. water is not pure, even if your meter shows zero Total Disolved Solids.

I work at a power plant and I get my to RO water from there. It’s pure water. Trust me. It’s the same water we make up our condensate with and if it weren’t pure we would get boiler tube leaks. I mean, the team of chemists and water treatment guys that make up an entire department of over 40 people there would love to argue about if their water was pure or not.

 

[CokFLHX]

That being said, not everyone can walk into the water treatment plant at an industrial site. As long as it’s not straight from the tap I would think it should be fine anyways.

 

[Buell1125]

Hello all. It’s been awhile since I’ve been on here.

I wanted to get some opinions because I think something isn’t right.
With MHRB, the average yield is 2%, right?

For some reason I can’t figure, I am not getting anywhere close to 2%.
In my last extraction, I did 400g of bark, in four 100g chunks if you will. Basically I do it 100g at a time, but I’ll do two to four of them at once.

I like to do do a A/B. I don’t measure amounts, I adjust for pH. Before I basic, I like to filter the bark material out with cheesecloth. I call it a run. I’ll filter out the bark, and that’s one run. I usually do three runs, with three pulls on each run.

With 400g total MHRB, my yield is only 1.5g.
I should be getting AT LEAST 5g out of 400g, correct? Or could the bark not be the best or something?

The way I extract, is to powderize the bark, then I make an acidic solution from RO water, with hydrochloric acid added until it reaches a pH of 2-4. About 250-300ml per 100g of bark.

I then do three freeze/thaw cycles of the acidic bark slurry. After the third thaw; I filter it through a cheesecloth, squeezing out all the liquid I can before putting the solid ball of bark into another jar and adding more acidic solution for the second run.

After filtration, I dissolve 50g of salt in 100ml of RO water, and add it to the extract.
Then I add lye to 200ml of RO water until it reaches a pH of 12 or higher, and add the base solution to the extract until the pH measures 12. Mix vigorously. Then I add 75ml of Heptane for the pull.


Is there something screwed up or wrong with this procedure? Why am I getting such low yields?

The first run yielded 1.5g the second run yielded .5g, and I haven’t finished the third run yet. However usually the third run doesn’t produce much at all.

Can anyone shed some light or give some advice on this?

Thanks for your time.

I’ve been lurking for a few months and since I’ve benefited from this forum I wanted to give back with what I have learned. I hope this is an acceptable thread to hijack. I live in Iowa. I had mediocre yields in the summer doing the salt tek/ max ion 100 gr mhrb skipping any acid wash as it’s not necessary. So starting at the saline part/ basicying. What ii accidentally discovered is that evaporating ur naphtha and feeezing produces crystals it doesn’t crash out all of the crystals. If you pour off the naphtha into another glass dish evaporates again by 30% you will coat the bottom of the dish with the same amount of crystals. This can be done several times I was just taking the naphtha and pouring it off the precipitate right back into my aqueous solution agitating that then starting the whole single freeze process again. The naphtha became didn’t pick much else from the slurry because it still was loaded with freebase. When it crashes the crystals it crashes what the naphtha can no longer hold suspended in the solvent. It increased my yield to around 2%+, saved on time and solvent. I want to thank everyone for their input on here. Incredible.

 

[Transform]

I’ve been lurking for a few months and since I’ve benefited from this forum I wanted to give back with what I have learned. I hope this is an acceptable thread to hijack. I live in Iowa. I had mediocre yields in the summer doing the salt tek/ max ion 100 gr mhrb skipping any acid wash as it’s not necessary. So starting at the saline part/ basicying. What ii accidentally discovered is that evaporating ur naphtha and feeezing produces crystals it doesn’t crash out all of the crystals. If you pour off the naphtha into another glass dish evaporates again by 30% you will coat the bottom of the dish with the same amount of crystals. This can be done several times I was just taking the naphtha and pouring it off the precipitate right back into my aqueous solution agitating that then starting the whole single freeze process again. The naphtha became didn’t pick much else from the slurry because it still was loaded with freebase. When it crashes the crystals it crashes what the naphtha can no longer hold suspended in the solvent. It increased my yield to around 2%+, saved on time and solvent. I want to thank everyone for their input on here. Incredible.

Hi, welcome! Glad to hear you've found our site helpful, and that you've been able to obtain such good results.

It was a little hard to follow your post due to the lack of paragraph breaks, however. Could you have try at adding some formatting to make it easier for spaghetti brains like me to read?

It's a useful skill to be able to organise ones own notes in any case, and I'd find it easier to provide some useful feedback if your writing was clearer, particularly the method you were outlining at the end - say, the last couple of sentences.

Could you go into some more detail on that?

 

[Buell1125]

Hi, welcome! Glad to hear you've found our site helpful, and that you've been able to obtain such good results.

It was a little hard to follow your post due to the lack of paragraph breaks, however. Could you have try at adding some formatting to make it easier for spaghetti brains like me to read?

It's a useful skill to be able to organise ones own notes in any case, and I'd find it easier to provide some useful feedback if your writing was clearer, particularly the method you were outlining at the end - say, the last couple of sentences.

Could you go into some more detail on that?

yeah. It was late and I wasn’t exactly sober.
Basically do any mhrb tek you want. I found the process to have more of an effect than the tek did on the outcome. I didn’t use any litmus paper. Put enough lye in to make it black. I seal my jars when the lye is added I think the pressure from the reaction helps. But obviously you have to burp them or they may pop. I found I got better separation when my soup was thinner. When it had a slight viscosity I would get a small layer of emulsion between the layers in the jar. So I added more water to thin the soup to a broth. I also added about 25-30% of the volume in naphtha for my pulls. I put it when my soup is still warm from basifying. I shake min vigorously 4 or 5 times. Let it separate between shaking. Never had a permanent emulsion. This process takes several days and I leave my glass jars sitting on a heating pad in a closet. I have a large rock tumbler that I have modded to spin the big ass pickle jars I use. Sometimes I forget and they spin for a few days. They always separate into 2 layers.
The pulls: siphon off ur naphtha and repeat 4 times the shaking or rolling or whatever you do. Every time the naphtha is temporarily emulsified in the aqueous layer it’s grabbing freebase. I keep all my pulls in another glass jar. I may use a gallon or more of naphtha for 4 100 gram batches of bark. I then pour the naphtha into a large glass dish set it on a table with 2 fans in my shed and evaporate a portion away. It’s winter where I’m at and it’s 5 degrees. The outside is my freezer. When crystals form I pour the naphtha into another glass dish with fans on it and evaporate more away. I dry my first dish and scrape. About 8 hours later there are crystals on the other dish and I pour the remaining naptha back into the dish I just scraped and evaporate more naptha away. And repeat this process until the naptha is almost gone then pour like a cup and half back into one of my soup jars. It’s convenient because of the weather outside but could be done with an inside freezer as well. I always finish with 2 pulls of xylene to grab everything else in the soup. Then I evaporate the xylene dry. I scrape the waxy residue then melt it into hot naptha. Pull just the clear naptha off with a siphon. Theres gonna be some greasy shit on the bottom. I evap my naptha almost dry and freeze the dish. It’s not as pretty as the first pulls but I use it for my carts and it works pretty good. Not as good as a puck, honey stick and freebase chokers but it’s ok.