I am curious to see what you guys think if I am loading too high of a dose. I have been using the aegis solo because my voopoo drag 2 got lost/stolen. I loaded my friend with 40 mg of dmt. He took 1 hit but did not finish it and coughed a slight amount amount but inhaled the rest for 15 seconds. He did not finish what was on the mesh. His experience lasted about 5 minutes. He said he remember the room looking crazy like it had more dimensions to it and then he said he blacked out for a short period after that. He was looking around the room with his eyes open. He said he blacked out for those 3 minutes. Do you think he broke-through or took too little or too much? Trying to get a good idea of how much to load
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The direct e-mesh thread.
- Thread starter Propello
- Start date
Steffen335
Rising Star
Propello, thank you!
It's very convenient, indeed! A first timer can easily 1) sit, 2) see the elves, after a very brief instruction.
I'm using a higher temp, because I found that the mesh doesn't glow red in a dark room on 200-220°, and it takes a lot more time to vaporize 25 mg using this temperature range. It does glow on 240°.
The smoke is a bit harsher than vaporized cannabis, I'm not a smoker and sometimes want to cough, but it's manageable not to. I'll try a few more sodium carbonate washes, and re-crystallizations, and report back.
Water filter is completely optional, the vapor is just fine without it. I'll do a comparison (water vs no water), after cleaning up the spice some more.
Thank you.some one said:
It's very convenient, indeed! A first timer can easily 1) sit, 2) see the elves, after a very brief instruction.I'm using manual TCR, to be able to limit wattage to 60 W. But still using the same TCR value as SS316L preset, i.e. 110.some one said:
I'm using a higher temp, because I found that the mesh doesn't glow red in a dark room on 200-220°, and it takes a lot more time to vaporize 25 mg using this temperature range. It does glow on 240°.
The smoke is a bit harsher than vaporized cannabis, I'm not a smoker and sometimes want to cough, but it's manageable not to. I'll try a few more sodium carbonate washes, and re-crystallizations, and report back.
Water filter is completely optional, the vapor is just fine without it. I'll do a comparison (water vs no water), after cleaning up the spice some more.
skoobysnax
Rising Star
I would try lowering the temp a bit before going overboard with cleaning it. I dropped to 190C and that may have been a little low but 90% vaped in 2 drags maybe 1 but a small bit did melt/drip off the mesh. Just 3-5 mg. I used 30mg ss preset on the aegis solo with the provided 316 mesh. The hit was very clean and although not a deep breakthrough it was enough past the waiting room. When i have an hour + to work the way i like with a harmala predose, 20mg sublingual i will let you know what 25mg does.200F seems to be the sweet spot. A little too hot is harsher even if it isn't fully burnt. I pray i never inhale a truly burned dose again in my life.Steffen335 said:Propello, thank you!
Thank you.some one said:
I'm using manual TCR, to be able to limit wattage to 60 W. But still using the same TCR value as SS316L preset, i.e. 110.some one said:
I'm using a higher temp, because I found that the mesh doesn't glow red in a dark room on 200-220°, and it takes a lot more time to vaporize 25 mg using this temperature range. It does glow on 240°.
The smoke is a bit harsher than vaporized cannabis, I'm not a smoker and sometimes want to cough, but it's manageable not to. I'll try a few more sodium carbonate washes, and re-crystallizations, and report back.
Water filter is completely optional, the vapor is just fine without it. I'll do a comparison (water vs no water), after cleaning up the spice some more.
Propello
Rising Star
After a bit experimenting, it seems like the sweetspot with 'Red faint glow in a dark room', appears to be at the level where the wattage stabilizes at around 13-14w when you hold the fire button. NB! This is for the Aegis Solo, other mods can behave differently.
If your wattage shows lower or higher wattage, adjust the temperature on the mod/aegis up or down until it stabilizes at 13-14w and check the 'red faint glow' just to be sure.
If your mod or mesh behaves different, there is an easy way to find the optimal settings:
- Set the mod to wattage mod and 13-14w
- Bring the mod to a dark room and adjust wattage to the 'red faint glow'
- The wattage value you get, is the one you will aim for in TC mode, when you hold the fire button.
Blessings
If your wattage shows lower or higher wattage, adjust the temperature on the mod/aegis up or down until it stabilizes at 13-14w and check the 'red faint glow' just to be sure.
If your mod or mesh behaves different, there is an easy way to find the optimal settings:
- Set the mod to wattage mod and 13-14w
- Bring the mod to a dark room and adjust wattage to the 'red faint glow'
- The wattage value you get, is the one you will aim for in TC mode, when you hold the fire button.
Blessings
Liquidreality
I root my phones, I over-clock my PC's, I boost-tu
I just tested this with 20mg today, and holy hell... To whoever asked if 40 was too much, i'm inclined to say yes.
I ripped what i could in a few seconds, until i felt as if i were about to cough, and held it a few seconds until i felt a heavy head change. Although I did not break through, i feel a more concentrated effort certainly could have gotten me there. Holding the hit a few more seconds probably would have done it, as i did exhale a small puff.
I used the Wotofo Profile with a strip of the VV 150 roll powered by the VandyVape PulseX at 180c, 60w @ .2ohm. Yes, im sure this is high for the wattage, but the temp control kicks in almost immediately and throttles the power down. A more conservative wattage as mentioned by others will surely prevent some of the spice from being burned instead of vaporized, but overall it was quite an effective test.
This is exactly what i have been looking for. Being a vaper, naturally I tried the e-liquid method and found it wasn't happening, even with an insanely strong mix. Ended up wasting a bunch of spice. The efficiency of this method more than makes up the material i lost to that experiment.
A sincere thank you to everyone involved!
I ripped what i could in a few seconds, until i felt as if i were about to cough, and held it a few seconds until i felt a heavy head change. Although I did not break through, i feel a more concentrated effort certainly could have gotten me there. Holding the hit a few more seconds probably would have done it, as i did exhale a small puff.
I used the Wotofo Profile with a strip of the VV 150 roll powered by the VandyVape PulseX at 180c, 60w @ .2ohm. Yes, im sure this is high for the wattage, but the temp control kicks in almost immediately and throttles the power down. A more conservative wattage as mentioned by others will surely prevent some of the spice from being burned instead of vaporized, but overall it was quite an effective test.
This is exactly what i have been looking for. Being a vaper, naturally I tried the e-liquid method and found it wasn't happening, even with an insanely strong mix. Ended up wasting a bunch of spice. The efficiency of this method more than makes up the material i lost to that experiment.
A sincere thank you to everyone involved!
Propello
Rising Star
Glad you enjoy the setup Liquidreality. You should hold your breath for at least 20 seconds, more if you can.
For the vandyvape mesh roll, 35w is more than enough. Hope to hear more reports from you when you have fine tuned your setup.
Safe travels brother
For the vandyvape mesh roll, 35w is more than enough. Hope to hear more reports from you when you have fine tuned your setup.
Safe travels brother
Propello
Rising Star
I wonder if the reason this method works so well, is because of the leidenfrost effect, see Leidenfrost effect - Wikipedia
Same principle as dabbing I think. But I'm no expert, just speculating.
Thoughts anyone?
Same principle as dabbing I think. But I'm no expert, just speculating.
Thoughts anyone?
some one
Esteemed member
Propello:
One post somewhere back in this topic is about someone mentioning they used a 400 mesh and high temp and reported splattering of DMT. I believe this is the leidenfrost effect. If you used a coarser mesh (100-150) and lower temps (200-210) then the spice just vapes the same way as in a GVG.
I like the wattage test you thought up. 13-14w is applicable to your mesh density and area. So, if people follow your instruction how large to cut it, then they can use this data.
Steffen335:
I agree with skoobysnax, you should lower your temp. I advice you (and everyone else) to first try with 200 C. Only if that doesn't work, then change it. There is no point in vaping everyone within 3 seconds, if you can use a lower temp and vape everything in 9 seconds with less harsh smoke.
What do you mean by doing sodium carbonate washes to clean your spice? What are you trying to clean it from using based water? This sounds like something which leaves sodium carbonate residue in the spice, making it harsh to smoke. A good way to clean spice is dissolving 1g in 50ml heated Naphtha, cool down, discard solids and freeze precip.
One post somewhere back in this topic is about someone mentioning they used a 400 mesh and high temp and reported splattering of DMT. I believe this is the leidenfrost effect. If you used a coarser mesh (100-150) and lower temps (200-210) then the spice just vapes the same way as in a GVG.
I like the wattage test you thought up. 13-14w is applicable to your mesh density and area. So, if people follow your instruction how large to cut it, then they can use this data.
Steffen335:
I agree with skoobysnax, you should lower your temp. I advice you (and everyone else) to first try with 200 C. Only if that doesn't work, then change it. There is no point in vaping everyone within 3 seconds, if you can use a lower temp and vape everything in 9 seconds with less harsh smoke.
What do you mean by doing sodium carbonate washes to clean your spice? What are you trying to clean it from using based water? This sounds like something which leaves sodium carbonate residue in the spice, making it harsh to smoke. A good way to clean spice is dissolving 1g in 50ml heated Naphtha, cool down, discard solids and freeze precip.
Propello
Rising Star
Someone - I would say it is a difference bettween the gvg (convection) and the e-mesh (conduction) methods. GVG makes vapor of heated air, while the e-mesh makes vapor because of the direct heated element. That is why I am curious about the Leidenfrost effect, and wonder if it make an air layer between the mesh and spice when heated.
From what I have read on the nexus and other sites, the spice boils/vaprizes at about 160C and start tasting harsh/burnt at around 230-240C, so i suppose the optimal temp window are between 180-220, depending of how dense vapor the user aims for.
You are probably right about the 400 mesh person who had trouble with spitting/splattering. I suppose the Leidenfrost effect was causing trouble in that case. But still wonder if the leidenfrost effect is present with coarser mesh, just less.
We need a math guy to calculate at which temp the leidenfrost effect occur for dmt crystal. The formula is in the wiki page.
Blessings
From what I have read on the nexus and other sites, the spice boils/vaprizes at about 160C and start tasting harsh/burnt at around 230-240C, so i suppose the optimal temp window are between 180-220, depending of how dense vapor the user aims for.
You are probably right about the 400 mesh person who had trouble with spitting/splattering. I suppose the Leidenfrost effect was causing trouble in that case. But still wonder if the leidenfrost effect is present with coarser mesh, just less.
We need a math guy to calculate at which temp the leidenfrost effect occur for dmt crystal. The formula is in the wiki page.
Blessings
It seems that with the fixed mesh with Propello's recommendations for the size, that the coil must say .13, .14, or .15 on my aegis solo. If coil shows different amount than the temperature is way off and it will have bright glow in already lit room at 180 celsius. What can I do to keep the mesh so it will say at that same coil number. Also could it be that liquid fell into the seams where the legs screw in that is messing that up?
Yea is it your exact dimensions propello. It works great when the aegis predicts the right ohm. . But I think if the fence bottoms move out all it can go through off the ohm setting. The fences might be slightly bent or something so temp does not seem to be correct. It has through a few uses so maybe need to make. Also been using the ss preset on the aegis and seems to have worked welll with my previous attempts.
I figured that if the automatic set ohm resistance get out of the range of anything from .13, .14, or .15 I can adjust the tcr until I get a faint glow at 200 celsius. When it shows .16 ohm automatic, I switched down to 77 tcr and that got it to glow at 200 Celsius. Has anyone else had to do this when the automatic coil resistance gets set at a not ideal range?
Liquidreality
I root my phones, I over-clock my PC's, I boost-tu
mattw1994 said:
Be sure that the 510 connection between the RDA (top piece) and the mod (battery) is clean and screwed down tight, and that the mesh is fastened into the clamps securely.
I vape e-liquid with nicotine, and some devices have this problem with resistances changing if these details are not attended to. Sometimes juice gets into the 510 connection, or the threads get dirty. After firing the mesh to glowing a few times, re-snug the connections while the mesh is warm and pliable.
Additionally, although i did not build with the fence method, ensure that the sections of the fences are either all touching or all not touching each time you load the strip with spice. if the strip is getting jostled around and contacting itself differently each time you load it, i imagine it could be giving you different resistances each time for this reason.
Also be certain that the top cap does not contact the mesh when you put it on, although it would be pretty obvious once you press the fire button if this had happened to you.