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The Mescaline Extraction Thread

Migrated topic.
XENONSION said:
XENONSION said:
Recently did an extraction on some P torch, 220 grams dried and powdered cactus material. Standard a/b extraction and so far yielded 1.5 grams from doing 4 pulls, plan to do 8-10 pulls total or until no more is able to be extracted. Will update when completed with final yield
little update here..

lost count of my pulls, but did 12-15 at least. and was still getting 150-200mg per pull. After cleaning with acetone, ended up with 5.6 grams of HCL, left my jugs sit, can always go pull more later, just got tired of doing it, haha

Couple questions:

Considering the fact that what you extracted contained a large mix of alkaloids, what sort of dose ranges did you use?

I've been watching that youtube video that goes step by step through an extraction. Near the end when he's condensing down the slightly acidic solution, do you put it on the stove? Doesn't heat damage the goodness?
 
I've heard using an alchohol extraction with many things is a very big mistake


SWIM has used it successfully for many things and it's always seemed to work, it won't get you a crystalline extract, but a crude extract gummy or pasty residue


not that SWIM would put it above any well made extract from chemical synthesis techniques, but that not everyone wants to go through the trouble of making a high tech extract involving hazardous chemicals


in all it's fairness an alchohol extract always seems more potent and feasable than just the basic material


anything???????? i'm just wondering, because SWIM was thinking of doing an alchohol extract with his peruvian torch one day, and then eating and smoking the extract, it seems it'd work well if SWIM could figure out how to grind up the cactus, SWIM guesses he could just wait until it dries out, is this a really bad idea?


also, if SWIM were to do these extractions in SWIMs house with high specified techniques to extract things like dmt or mescaline or psilocybin or whatnot, without some means to evaporate these chemicals, SWIM would be putting himself at potential risk of fumes, + the fact that SWIM wouldn't evaporate them in SWIM's house to do so would mean SWIM wouldn't be able to evaporate them elsewhere exept outside, right?
 
There would be far too much plant oils in the cactus to get a good extraction with noman's. It is necessary to do some kind of extraction where you defat. The only reason why we are able to use a tek such as noman's tek with mimosa is because there is a much much smaller amount of plant oils in the material.
 
IMHO, a Trichocereus cactus trip is much better than pure mescaline, so this is all a waste of time, if you ask me.
 
better you say?

doesn't the extra alkaloids give you more of the wired energy aspect of the mescaline trip?

i'd rather have a purer trip, unless it's the opposite, and the alkaloids contribute to the better aspect of the trip, which isn't to say they don't


the trips pretty incredible though, i'd be suprised either way if i had a real big complaint, weed is essential to me to kick it in and reduce that body energetic buzz
 
Well an alcohol extraction on a half pound of T. Bridgesii netted my friend a tar ball that weighs 17 grams.My friend wants to know what this would equal out to dosage wise.
 
Well no one will really be able to tell you as no one knows how much is mescaline and how much is garbage.That's why it's better to do an extraction that leaves you with better product.Start low, I'd say 500mg-ish.Should leave you with some idea of how potent it is.
 
Just thought I'd add another to the list. This one has the advantage of being relatively safe for the average kitchen chemist. No bubbling HCl gas, no sulfuric acid titration.

Easy Three-Step Mescaline Citrate
by 04281969

Materials needed:



1) Peruvian torch or San Pedro cactus powder
2) Lye (use gloves and ventilation)
3) Xylene (use gloves and ventilation)
4) Glass gallon jug with lid or stopper
5) Glass funnel
6) Glass jars
7) Citric acid
8) Long dropper pipette
9) Glass turkey baster
10) Measuring cup and teaspoon
11) Square Pyrex dish and fan for evaporation



Step 1 - Extraction: (Base / Non-Polar)



Mix 1-cup (300 grams) lye into 3 quarts cold water, stirring constantly. Pour into jug. Caution HOT!
Add 2/3 cup (100 grams) powdered cactus to the jug. Mix well.
Add ~1 quart xylene to the jug. Shake and roll to mix well.
Mix occasionally over the next 24+ hours as the lye breaks down the cactus.
Allow enough time for separation into layers before proceeding to the next step.



Step 2 - Salt: (Acid / Polar)



Prepare acidic solution by diluting ½ teaspoon (2g) citric acid into ½ cup (120ml) distilled water.
Collect top xylene layer from the jug using the baster, putting the xylene into a new jar.
Add approximately one-fifth of the prepared acidic water to the xylene jar.
Put the lid on the xylene jar and shake it up a few times. Wait a couple minutes to settle.
Collect bottom water layer using a long dropper, putting the water into the evaporation dish.
Return xylene to the cactus solution and mix for another 24 hours.
(Optionally, you can add 1 Tbsp lye to the jug after the third extraction.)
Complete 5 extractions over 5 days to use all of the water.



Step 3 - Evaporation:



Pour liquid into a flat-bottomed glass dish under a fan in a low humidity/mild temp environment. After a few days, scrape the residue from the dish and powder using a razor blade. The powder will continue to dry over the next few days. Makes 3-10 doses depending on potency of cactus and dosage desired.



Optionally, the mescaline citrate can be seperated from the citric acid to a decent degree by precipitation:

"I put the mescaline-containing water from each extraction into a small jar overnight and allowed the crystals to precipitate out. I then removed the old water, and added clean water to the crystals and swirled it around to get them out of the jar. I then collected the crystals in the collection dish and evaporated."


"When the precipitated mescaline citrate crystals are collected and separated from the water (like I did this time in order to get good crystals for the pictures), I am sure the dose will be more standardized. The reason the citrate doses can vary is because if you are quick and sloppy with it, you can go heavy on the citric acid to make sure you get all the mescaline out of the cactus that there is to be had, and evaporate it all, not just the crystals that precipitate out. This will leave you with extraneous citric acid and all the extra alkaloid salts. It will not harm you, but some of that is just added filler that will alter dosage.

"Because the theory of crystal formation involves the most concentrated compound crystalizing first, the resulting product from this is fairly pure mescaline citrate. To acieve the same purity of the mescaline salt from the typical technique involving total evaporation of all alkaloids, you would need to dissolve and recrystallize, regardless of the acid used. Recrystallization - Wikipedia

"BTW, putting the collection jar into the fridge for a couple of hours will really make the crystals start coming out like snowflakes. Here's a picture."
 
And Ekstaza's tek is another good one

Mescaline extraction made easy
by Ekstaza

I've put this out in other threads, but I wanted it to show up immediately if a search for mescaline extraction is conducted, so here it is.

Try this extraction tek. It's the simplest full extraction that I've found. It doesn't require a seperatory funnel and it's written in simple step-by-step recipe style wording.

Things you'll need:



1.at least 2 glass or HDPE(should show a triangular recycle symbol with a 2 inside of it somewhere on the bottom) plastic jugs or jars. HDPE is preferred because strong lye solutions will etch glass and cause it to break eventually. I know first hand.

2. 100% pure lye (reagent grade is best if you can get it)

3. Muriatic acid (HCL or hydrochloric acid)

4. Acetone

5. Xylene

6. turkey baster

7. a glass or stainless steel funnel

8. cotton balls

9. a short piece of fish tank air tubing

all easy to get items (use NO aluminum)

You should not use any type of open flame at any point during this extraction.
Use adequate ventilation at all times.

Preparing your cactus
You'll want to begin with dry powdered cactus if you can. You can dry slices of cactus in the oven with low heat and then use a coffee grinder to powderize it.
NOTEI've experience a severe reaction to breathing the powder. It screws up my sinuses for a week or two. I'd suggest using a face mask to prevent it being inhaled. Also I have noticed irritation to the eyes if the dust comes in contact with them. Be careful.

Extracting
Prepare a solution of lye water by slowly mixing together 1 TBS of lye for every pint(8 TBS/gallon) of cold water that you think you'll need to completely cover you dry cactus. This will produce a little heat so don't be alarmed. Just swirl it around slowly as you add the lye a little at a time. This is what I will refer to as base or basic water.

Next add you dry cactus powder(100grams of powder in each gallon jug was used for this extraction). Mix the contents thoroughly to ensure that you expose all of the powder to the basic water.


Now add about a pint or so of xylene to the mix. You want enough of a layer to be able to draw off the xylene with the turkey baster later. Shake it all up and let it sit for an hour. This is what it will look like just after shaking.


If after an hour you can see that the xylene layer is separating back out, fine, if not, add a little more pre-made basic water and check again. Now shake it back up and put it away for 24 hours (every second of it).
This is after three hours.



24 hours later, you want to draw off the xylene so now you need to use the turkey baster to suck it up and put it in a new jar(a mason jar works fine). You don't want any of the water from beneath the xylene to come with it.

The way that you draw up the xylene without it dripping back into the jug is the put about 6" of fish tank air tubing in the end of the baster. You may have to cut a bit on the baster to get it to fit, but be careful not to cut too much as you need the tube to fit snug.
When drawing xylene out you should keep one hand on the bulb of the baster and one on the tube for maximum control of the tube and so that you can pinch the tube with your thumb and forefinger while lifting it out of the jug.


and put it into your salting bottles.

(You want to rinse the turkey baster and the tubing thoroughly after each use with hot water)

Optional Additional Cleaning step (Originally left out of the pictoral because I do not perform this task. This step helps to remove some of the chlorophyl and plant fats from the xylene.)
Add lye water, about 1/4 the volume of your xylene, to the xylene in the salting bottles/jars. Give this a good shake and allow it to settle back out into two layers. It's probably best to let it sit for a few hours to separate completely. Place the bottle/jar into the freezer and allow the lye water to freeze solid. Once the water is frozen solid, pour off the xylene into another container suitable for salting.

Salting
Now you want to mix your acid water in order to dilute it to the proper strength you want. Be very careful not to breath the vapors that come out of the bottle when you open it. HCL comes very strong and it will burn you.

You want to add approximately 4-6 drops of HCL acid to 1.5 cups of water.
Slowly add this acid water to the xylene while gently swirling the liquids around in the jar. Add just enough to make a half inch or so layer beneath the xylene.


Don't worry that you won't get all of the goods because the xylene is going back into the extraction bottle and you'll get another shot at what you missed before. Put the lid on the jar and shake it all up. Wait a few minutes and shake again.

Once it has returned completely to a separated state loosen the lid on the jar and place it in the freezer. You want the bottom layer(the acid water) to now freeze solid. The xylene will not freeze. Once the water is frozen, work quickly and pour the xylene back into the extraction bottle.

With the water still frozen solid, pour in a little warm water and swirl around and discard quickly. This helps get rid of a little more residual xylene. The rest will evaporate later.

Repeat the extraction and salting steps 4 to 6 times to get all of the goodies. You can reuse the xylene over and over again.

Evaporating
Now thaw out the water and put it in you evaporation dish. A large flat bottomed pyrex dish works best. Using heat(heating pad beneath the dish) or not, fan dry it to evaporate the water from the dish. This may take some time depending on how much water you used.

Once all of this is dry you will see a crystalline residue left on the dish.

This pic shows off a mistake that I made and one that some of you may make also. On the right side of the dish you can see a huge brown spot. This happened because I used too much hcl acid in the salting step. This, however, is not a big problem. It will all be gone after the cleaning step, plus much of it evaporated with the water. I might could have even avoided some of the discoloration by evaporating slower, giving the hcl more time to evaporate.

Scrape it off with a razor blade. It will be a brownish powder.

This is from the first scraping from the first salting. It actually turned out much better than I normally expect.

It can be used as is but the next procedure is simple if you've got this far.

Cleaning
Put a cotton ball in the spout end of your funnel so that it can filter.


Mix some acetone with your extracted alkaloids. I use a mason jar so that I can swirl it around easily. You want to get every piece of mescaline washed with acetone, so mix it in good.


Next, pour it into the funnel with a clean dry jar to catch the liquids. Use acetone to wash loose needles, that remain in the jar, into the funnel.


You will notice some color draining through with the acetone. Wash like this with fresh acetone until little to no more color is draining through. Put the funnel somewhere to dry.

Once all acetone smell is gone from the funnel and it's contents you need to pour some hot water into it with it positioned over the evaporation dish. The hot water will dissolve the crystals and allow them to flow through the cotton into the dish.

Evaporate as before. The resulting crystals will be considerably whiter and more pure. This is not only for aesthetics, but also it makes for more accurate dosing.

You can put this powder in capsules to facilitate simple dosing with pre-measured amounts in each capsule. Look to www.erowid.com for dosing guidelines.
 
SWIM was just wondering if there's any reason he shouldn't dry pieces of san pedro in a food dehydrator for use in extraction, or if grinding them up for encapsulation.

Also, is the size and shape of the cutting at all an indicator of the potency? Or is it generally reliable to gauge it by weight?
 
amor_fati said:
SWIM was just wondering if there's any reason he shouldn't dry pieces of san pedro in a food dehydrator for use in extraction, or if grinding them up for encapsulation.

Also, is the size and shape of the cutting at all an indicator of the potency? Or is it generally reliable to gauge it by weight?

Trying to eat 50-100 capsules of pedro powder does not sound like the start of a good evening!

I always dry my Bridgesii before doing an alcohol extraction on it. Cut into thin wafers, spread out, and turn a fan on it for 5 hours or so. 8-10grams of alcohol extract (tar) alwyas brings me to a very interesting place.
 
Hi, i like to keep things simple, so i'm thinking this may work, maybe not, but i was wondering if a (FASA)Fumarate Acid Saturated Acetone Extracion will work on (T)Cacti?

Sounds like you all seem to get alot per weight, thats good, i was mislead by reading that it only had 0.5% - 0.7% Per Gram(Not Dry) = avg(0.005g/5mg) Per 1g Cacti.

I havn't checked yet, but is it easy to obtain Acetone by the gallon? Maybe its used in the field of painting or striping? Its used for finger nail polish remover, but thats alot of little bottles to buy, could look suspicious with 10 bottles of polish remover, Being i'm a male and don't paint my finger nails.
 
It works but not so well. It seems that mescaline fumarate does not readily form in the xylene/acetone solution. Plus, the guy who reportedly claims to have performed these experiments:

a) extracted mescaline from cactus using a weird (but sound) way. The product was never bioassayed so he doesnt' know what he really has.

b) freebased some of this experimental product and salted it with fumaric acid with moderate success.

He actually recommends steering away from this method for the moment since it's not only too experimental, it's pretty much unverified.

Only if someone feels that he/she has the appropriate experience/education to foresee the logic in each step and act accordingly in the case of trouble (because no-one else would be able to give advice if things go wrong) should this technique be performed:wink:
 
I'm still new to extractions, not really new but i'm not a chemist, like with mescaline i know you want it in salt form because freebase is oil rather than a dry substance,

hmmm... could i

1. Aetone Defat, dry
2. Freebase with Sodium Carbonate, dry
3. Acetone freebase extract, dry
4. Now i know i need to add an acid to covert it back to salt, muriatic is what i would prefer to use, i'm just not sure how to extract the salt form from the acid, you cant dry out an acid without leaving stuff behind can you? Whats a good method for extracting salts from acids? An easy method, easy to obtain chemicals


Maybe i can save myself a lot of trouble, is the freebase form of mescaline orally active?
I would be fine with that, put it in some gel tabs or something.

i got another question also, kinda off subject not intending to do this any time soon, but a quick yes or no, could you do a FASA on coca leaf?

I found some information, saldy not enough.....

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
If an acid–base–solvent extraction is done on the plant material the result is freebase mescaline. Freebase mescaline is 15% lighter than mescaline hydrochloride (and 25% lighter than mescaline sulfate), thereby requiring 15% _less_ material by weight for the same dose as mescaline hydrochloride. However, most (if not all) extractions end with the freebase being turned into a salt. If the extracted mescaline is not converted to a salt and the solvent is evaporated, it can readily form a salt with the carbon dioxide in the air, forming Mescaline carbonate (molecular weight unknown?).
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

So it will turn into a salt anyway, though sadly i cannot find any reports of anyone ever trying to use Mescaline carbonate, so i'm left with questions i can't find the answer to, like how soluable is (M Carbonate) in water, when they found out it turn into a salt when freebase meets air, who's the dombass that did not record the weight? I know i probly want get answers, but does anyone know anything else about Mescaline carbonate?


Ok...i have now read that you can use Mescaline carbonate, though only found small amounts of on people saying they use it that way, though they did not mention anything about dose. Still i would like any information avaliable on Mescaline carbonate.

One thing i got to ask....wtf is SWIM, does that stand for someting, like lol, or is that a person that is wide spread on the enternet?
 
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