Here is my idea in pictures...Yes thats a very good idea transform!..
the simplest idea i came up with for adjustable air flow...in pictures below..
trying to make gradual improvments... so now i bent the hollow temperature sensing shaft..so the ....[spike tip]....is higher inside kettel...closer to the level where the vape bowl sits...
After looking in hardware store ....in lamp parts]...i found a metal cap that will make a tight connection ... it tapped on very tightly...
....[i tested it with magnet... it is brass coated ..steel]
I finally found a thin brass coated steel cap that tapped on very tightly!.. and now im using a different steel bowl,,,it makes the bowl connection close to air tight...better for positive draws... next ill have to find a way to connect the stem to it...
the steel bowl in picture came from the .... first.... early... wooden vapor geni pipe.... from years back... using a hammer....i hammer rivited the bowl underside lip... onto the steel cap.....its air tight and will never seperate....[magnafy to see...
Tea kettels with a wide pour spout are ...harder to seal air tight ..../with bowl...than kettels with narrow spout...
vaporizer test update 5/31/2024
After adjusting my thermometer..in early first kettel vaporizer... using 10 drops tincture ....[after evaperating all the alcohol.]....[leaving product equaling between ..10 or 15 mgs of molecule ... and ......[acording to my thermometer]......vapor started around... 300F...and got thicker by 350F...so by 350F... i was getting a full hit and very clean light vapor cloud...it tasted like AIR!! ,,,it was super light..and tastles...and effective...i would defenantly call it clean effective convection vapor!
ZERO ....HARSHNESS!!
but of course this was quite a low dose of molecule...
I think the main issue with incomplete vaporisation here is that the edges of the bowl will have a greater degree of heat dissipation than the centre. If you can deflect the airflow such that it concentrates around the edges of the bowl you may be able to overcome this challenge very simply. Maybe a screw in the middle of the airflow, plus a bit of insulation around the bowl would be the place to start.Found a brass threaded bowl stem connector ....a...[ brass gas line fitting].... ..just threads into the bowl...then attach stem to it.....
gave it another low dose try .... and again....vapor starts at about 300f ..... then by 350 f...or higher the vapor pull produces much more vapor..still clean tasting /and effective ...at low dose...
One thing im noticing is ... ,.. its vaping only part of the product in bowl?...not vaping it all... in one hit....I think the airflow isnt open enough yet...because there is enough hot air....to do the trick...but the airflow must be a little restricted ...
[it may be restricted in the bowl because ....i used too many screen layers...3 layers of fine ...Vandy Vape 316l ss mesh.....on top of the ..coarser base screen...to prevent product drip down...]
judging how strong the partial vape effect was! ...[being its convection]....if the whole amount vaped... you better be sitting down!
need to open up the airflow more...to get more hot air to the bowl faster...
main thing is...the kettel vape works...!...just needs some fine tuning...
Yes those ideas make sense.. From past use...I know the bowl is ok with enough heat applyed.... Ive used that bowl in past ... with a butane lighter and the molecule vapor exploded perfectly...producing ....pure white very thick [....conduction].... vapor] ....i just didnt like inhaling butane fumes and other airborn conduction particles...
I knowi replyed a while back about using my.... open bottomed kettel..... getting too much outside air....I'm pretty sure I've seen conical (technically, [right, circular] frustum-shaped) designer kettles - although with those the spout is still at the side.
I guess they don't have to be entirely conical - a truncated [circular] paraboloid would also do the job:Alessi Tea Rex Kettle - copper black metal | Made In Design UK
Buy the Tea Rex Kettle from Alessi, on Made in Design - 48 to 72 hours delivery. Order today!www.madeindesign.co.uk
https://www.houzz.com/photos/52798969/Alessi-Michael-Graves-Kettle-White-Handle-contemporary-kettlesIt may be possible to swap out the lid of this one for a suitably-modified stainless steel funnel (jam [jelly/preserving] or bottling funnels are good for this kind of thing):
QuCrow Whistling Tea Kettle With Heat-proof Handle Kitchen Grade Stainless for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for QuCrow Whistling Tea Kettle With Heat-proof Handle Kitchen Grade Stainless at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
but....the more i think about it the more it looks posible to use something like an open bottomed funnel..
Got a screenshot of that? If it rounds off to "1K" it won't move until the views reach "1.1K", which is proportionally a largish step.
)
1K to 1.1k .... is a little confusing..Got a screenshot of that? If it rounds off to "1K" it won't move until the views reach "1.1K", which is proportionally a largish step.
(I've never even thought of checking how many views any of my threads gets but then again I hardly ever start threads
Ah, maybe you mean induction? You can just put a suitable piece of steel under your kettle if that's the case - like the removable base of a cake tin of the correct size (which I've used to success on similar circumstances). Check it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks you can use it with an induction hob.
I want a single burner ...infrared cook top.....because i can heat anything up with it..and it heats very fast
Sorry, I was attempting to clarify this point since conduction would also work with copper bottoms. The steel 'conversion' plate works quite effectively to allow any non-ferrous item to be heated on an induction hob, as I'm sure you'll appreciate.
I fail to see why the glass vs. ceramic top question makes any difference here - is there something I'm missing?
That Technology Connections video further back in the thread also mentions infrared cook tops/hobs; mostly it comes down to the glass filtering out the visible light from a resistive heating element. I'd still say that that system is slower than inductive heating, even with the latter using an adaptor plate for non-ferrous vessels.
Im not even sure this infrared unit has a glass top... [not that important],,,, either one would work...i just like the compactness [small size] of the infrared unit....[7in].. and its cheap...about 20 bucks ....and will heat any metal surface...very simple...
and heated air is clean and inhalable...through a bubbler....
This is nothing to worry about in this instance. Radiation is a simply any energy* that radiates from a source - in this case, infrared radiation. What we perceive as visible light is also a form of electromagnetic radiation. It's only stuff like hard UV, X-rays and gamma rays that become particularly dangerous as forms of electromagnetic radiation. Microwaves can also present a hazard as they are absorbed by matter (such as living tissue) in ways that cause it to heat up.wait a minute!!...im not shure how safe infrared heated air is?
if you zoom and read below.....it says...below dont worry about the radiation......[probibly because you are only using heat to cook food]
but inhaling heated air that might have radiation ... doesnt sound safe/?
but there is some good news about the saftey of infrared heaters...in second page...
Yeah, it has a glass top, the blurring of the element's glow gives me the firm impression of that, at least. It wouldn't have an open element, this means it doesn't slowly shed metal oxide fragments into the air stream. Any heating of air produced by this device will, overwhelmingly, be the result of convective transfer from the glass surface [which heats up mostly from blocking the visible light frequencies of the heating element] plus heat transfer from whatever object has been placed upon the hob - the outside of a bottomless kettle would start to get very hot indeed, I suspect.
I just want a nice ....clean even heated air .... that rises gently inside the kettel. maintaining an even temperature ..not ...[ swirling ]... fast rising [uneven heat waves] with high and low ....hot spots.... everywhere...
