Spiceman
The Spicemeister
Several members here at the nexus have been asking me for sometime now to give this method of extraction a write up. It has been criticized by some, but for a fact - this method of dmt extraction is exceedingly easy and yes, it works.
Keep in mind this is not the advanced clandestine chemists ideal method of extracting dmt, however, this method will prove invaluable to the person who finds him/herself in a position of not being able to procure solvents or chemicals that the ideal methods would call for. Also it will no doubt be a valuable tool to those who want a completely food safe extration. Lastly those who are new to this field who feel unsure about using or even attempting to procure chemicals such as naptha or lye.
The real beauty of this tek is that you probably already have everything you need to extract either freebase or a salt of DMT right there in your kitchen cabinet. If not, you can buy everything you need at your local corner grocery store. This tek although making use of sometimes even the fattiest and crudest solvents , yeilds a 100% fat and oil free product. The final product, every time, will be fine snow white crystals or snow white crystalline powder ( <--if freebased, certain salts are hygroscopic and are always in a gooey state, also every type of oil has not been tried, its possible diffrent oils could pick up other alkaloids "jungle" that will tint the end product). This tek IS workable and almost impossible to screw up by even the most chemistry naive extractor.
Although somewhat void of exact amounts, volumes and measurements ... it should give a strong enough general overview to carry anyone through.
Here it is... starting with what you'll need...
Washing soda (Sodium Carbonate) This is a stronger base than baking soda but can be made by baking, baking soda in the oven about 350 for a couple hours to make sodium carbonate. It can also be purchased in most grocery stores right beside the baking soda and will be labelled instead , washing soda.
Note* Lime *aka* Calcium Carbonate may also be used to work this tek. Keep everything the same and simply substitute lime for the soda if so desired. Results will be the same.
90% Rubbing (Isopropyl) Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol, or Acetone, (Methyl works but voids the food safe aspect, however it is completely safe if evapped completely.) Less than 90% alcohol will work but will result in small amounts of sodium carbonate being in the end product. This is completely harmless and can be cleaned by repeating the process a few times.) Acetone is prefferable here.
Any Type of Vegetable Oil - Such as Canola Oil, Sunflower Oil, Peanut Oil, Corn Oil, Soybean Oil etc... or a mixture of these will work. (even lard aka animal fats would work here if kept hot) All of the above oils have been tested and did an excellent job of dissolving freebase dmt. The only oils used "fully" in the procedure was Canola Oil, Sunflower Oil, Mixed Vegetable Oil and hot Lard. All of them passed with flying colors. The lard actually worked beautifully, but you had to keep it hot, fantastic ;-) Traditional solvents, Naptha, Ether , etc.. work great here but voids the food safe aspect. If you want to use them , you can.
Some type of acid, such as Lemon juice, Vinegar, Vitamin C ... etc...
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Mix 1 gram of Sodium Carbonate for every gram of powdered root bark you have in a large glass or metal pan (glass is better). Slowly add water to the bark and carbonate mixture with stirring until a thin pasty consistency is achieved. We have to be sure to add enough water at this point to ensure the reaction can take place smoothly and the heat can flow through the mixture somewhat evenly. At the same time, we want to keep it a little on the thick side basically because its easier to handle this way. Just eyeball it. The consistency of thin oatmeal is perfect.
So what you should have now is a somewhat thick sludge made up of water, bark powder, and Sodium Carbonate. For every 50 grams of bark used, add 1/2 cup of your vegetable oil to this mix. Now set this mixture on low heat and bring up the temperature until it is hot , and steams when stirred.
This mixture should be kept HOT but should not boil. Once it is hot , maintain the hot temperature for 1 - 2 hours (1 and 1/2 is good). During that hour, the mixture should be well but very gently stirred every few minutes. Water should be periodically added to maintain the consistency of the sludge. Just don't let it dry out, you want it to have the same moisture content during the entire procedure. The heat, time, and agitation during this phase spurs on the reaction, ensuring that the weak base actually does the work and freebases all the alkaloids.
Note: If you think you got your original sludge too thin by adding to much water at any point, you can use the above phase to reduce it down. If its too thin, allow it to "steep" until the desired consistency is reached.
Now mix up some acidic water. For every gallon of water add 1.5 cups of vinegar or 1 cup lemon juice per gallon and measure out an equal amount of this acidic water for the amount of oil that you have. (If you have 2.5 cups oil , you'll need 2.5 cups acidic water, a little more wont hurt, but probably wont help either.
When atleast an hour has passed (two cant really hurt) then use something like a turkey baster/dropper type device to remove the oil and add it to your acidified water. If your sludge is thick enough you can probably pour the oil off Stir gently for several minutes. The goodies will attach to the acid in the water forming that particular salt, migrating to the water... leaving the oil on top containing only the oils and fats.
The oil after several minutes of mixing with the acidic water is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture. This process is repeated a total of three times, each time using the same oil and each time "steeping" for an hour or so. Also each time the oil is removed fresh acidic water is used and at the end combined.
(If a salt of dmt is desired , say for oral use, then at this point, after the oil is removed, the water is allowed to evaporate and the remaining material washed with acetone to yeild beautiful salted dmt crystals)
If Freebase DMT is the goal, then at this point the acidic water is made basic by adding more of our Sodium Carbonate. I'd say about a cup for every three cups acidic water you have should do it.
The water is now evaporated. This proccess is slow and requires a slight bit of patience if you are doing a larger extraction. Use a small fan and apply low heat to speed up the evaporation proccess. Now at this point you will be left with freebase dmt and washing soda. This material is scraped up and placed into a small dish.
Here one must retrieve the freebase dmt from the washing soda. There are several ways of doing this. Acetone is prefferable here, however most people don't have acetone handy. Instead, we can use high proof alcohol. 90% Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) will do great here and is available at your local walmart. 70 % can be used but keep in mind that the 30 % water present will carry over a good amount of the washing soda. This ofcourse is completely harmless but ofcourse undesirable. This can somewhat be remedied by repeating the washes with alcohol.
So completely dissolve the powder in acetone, rubbing alcohol or high proof whiskey (anything other than everclear will leave a taste) The washing soda will be left behind, and at this point your goodies are dissolved in the acetone or whatever solvent you used here. So collect the liquid , careful to leave the washing soda powder behind. Rinse this powder three times and combine the liquid from all three rinses.
Use a small fan to quickly evap the combined solvent rinses to leave behind beautifully white (if a good solvent was used at the end) dmt crystals. The only impurities that could be present is a small amount of washing soda. The weaker your alcohol (if used instead of acetone) the more washing soda will be pulled along with the dmt. Harmless but indeed, undesirable. 90% rubbing alcohol from wal-mart or the dollar store (at least in the states) will do just fine.
The purity of the end product can be improved by redissolving in solvent and leaving behind anything insoluble, and re-evaporating to leave behind purer crystals.
Like it was previously stated, this certainly is not the "Best" method for extracting dmt however it DOES work. This now makes it possible for many people who previously would not or could not attempt an extraction for any of several reasons to now do so. This is a work in progress... the author will make revisions as needed. Thanks to those who inspired me to write this up, you know who you are! Peace and Godspeed!
Keep in mind this is not the advanced clandestine chemists ideal method of extracting dmt, however, this method will prove invaluable to the person who finds him/herself in a position of not being able to procure solvents or chemicals that the ideal methods would call for. Also it will no doubt be a valuable tool to those who want a completely food safe extration. Lastly those who are new to this field who feel unsure about using or even attempting to procure chemicals such as naptha or lye.
The real beauty of this tek is that you probably already have everything you need to extract either freebase or a salt of DMT right there in your kitchen cabinet. If not, you can buy everything you need at your local corner grocery store. This tek although making use of sometimes even the fattiest and crudest solvents , yeilds a 100% fat and oil free product. The final product, every time, will be fine snow white crystals or snow white crystalline powder ( <--if freebased, certain salts are hygroscopic and are always in a gooey state, also every type of oil has not been tried, its possible diffrent oils could pick up other alkaloids "jungle" that will tint the end product). This tek IS workable and almost impossible to screw up by even the most chemistry naive extractor.
Although somewhat void of exact amounts, volumes and measurements ... it should give a strong enough general overview to carry anyone through.
Here it is... starting with what you'll need...
Washing soda (Sodium Carbonate) This is a stronger base than baking soda but can be made by baking, baking soda in the oven about 350 for a couple hours to make sodium carbonate. It can also be purchased in most grocery stores right beside the baking soda and will be labelled instead , washing soda.
Note* Lime *aka* Calcium Carbonate may also be used to work this tek. Keep everything the same and simply substitute lime for the soda if so desired. Results will be the same.
90% Rubbing (Isopropyl) Alcohol, Ethyl Alcohol, or Acetone, (Methyl works but voids the food safe aspect, however it is completely safe if evapped completely.) Less than 90% alcohol will work but will result in small amounts of sodium carbonate being in the end product. This is completely harmless and can be cleaned by repeating the process a few times.) Acetone is prefferable here.
Any Type of Vegetable Oil - Such as Canola Oil, Sunflower Oil, Peanut Oil, Corn Oil, Soybean Oil etc... or a mixture of these will work. (even lard aka animal fats would work here if kept hot) All of the above oils have been tested and did an excellent job of dissolving freebase dmt. The only oils used "fully" in the procedure was Canola Oil, Sunflower Oil, Mixed Vegetable Oil and hot Lard. All of them passed with flying colors. The lard actually worked beautifully, but you had to keep it hot, fantastic ;-) Traditional solvents, Naptha, Ether , etc.. work great here but voids the food safe aspect. If you want to use them , you can.
Some type of acid, such as Lemon juice, Vinegar, Vitamin C ... etc...
______________________________________________________________________________________________
Mix 1 gram of Sodium Carbonate for every gram of powdered root bark you have in a large glass or metal pan (glass is better). Slowly add water to the bark and carbonate mixture with stirring until a thin pasty consistency is achieved. We have to be sure to add enough water at this point to ensure the reaction can take place smoothly and the heat can flow through the mixture somewhat evenly. At the same time, we want to keep it a little on the thick side basically because its easier to handle this way. Just eyeball it. The consistency of thin oatmeal is perfect.
So what you should have now is a somewhat thick sludge made up of water, bark powder, and Sodium Carbonate. For every 50 grams of bark used, add 1/2 cup of your vegetable oil to this mix. Now set this mixture on low heat and bring up the temperature until it is hot , and steams when stirred.
This mixture should be kept HOT but should not boil. Once it is hot , maintain the hot temperature for 1 - 2 hours (1 and 1/2 is good). During that hour, the mixture should be well but very gently stirred every few minutes. Water should be periodically added to maintain the consistency of the sludge. Just don't let it dry out, you want it to have the same moisture content during the entire procedure. The heat, time, and agitation during this phase spurs on the reaction, ensuring that the weak base actually does the work and freebases all the alkaloids.
Note: If you think you got your original sludge too thin by adding to much water at any point, you can use the above phase to reduce it down. If its too thin, allow it to "steep" until the desired consistency is reached.
Now mix up some acidic water. For every gallon of water add 1.5 cups of vinegar or 1 cup lemon juice per gallon and measure out an equal amount of this acidic water for the amount of oil that you have. (If you have 2.5 cups oil , you'll need 2.5 cups acidic water, a little more wont hurt, but probably wont help either.
When atleast an hour has passed (two cant really hurt) then use something like a turkey baster/dropper type device to remove the oil and add it to your acidified water. If your sludge is thick enough you can probably pour the oil off Stir gently for several minutes. The goodies will attach to the acid in the water forming that particular salt, migrating to the water... leaving the oil on top containing only the oils and fats.
The oil after several minutes of mixing with the acidic water is removed and added back to the original basic bark mixture. This process is repeated a total of three times, each time using the same oil and each time "steeping" for an hour or so. Also each time the oil is removed fresh acidic water is used and at the end combined.
(If a salt of dmt is desired , say for oral use, then at this point, after the oil is removed, the water is allowed to evaporate and the remaining material washed with acetone to yeild beautiful salted dmt crystals)
If Freebase DMT is the goal, then at this point the acidic water is made basic by adding more of our Sodium Carbonate. I'd say about a cup for every three cups acidic water you have should do it.
The water is now evaporated. This proccess is slow and requires a slight bit of patience if you are doing a larger extraction. Use a small fan and apply low heat to speed up the evaporation proccess. Now at this point you will be left with freebase dmt and washing soda. This material is scraped up and placed into a small dish.
Here one must retrieve the freebase dmt from the washing soda. There are several ways of doing this. Acetone is prefferable here, however most people don't have acetone handy. Instead, we can use high proof alcohol. 90% Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) will do great here and is available at your local walmart. 70 % can be used but keep in mind that the 30 % water present will carry over a good amount of the washing soda. This ofcourse is completely harmless but ofcourse undesirable. This can somewhat be remedied by repeating the washes with alcohol.
So completely dissolve the powder in acetone, rubbing alcohol or high proof whiskey (anything other than everclear will leave a taste) The washing soda will be left behind, and at this point your goodies are dissolved in the acetone or whatever solvent you used here. So collect the liquid , careful to leave the washing soda powder behind. Rinse this powder three times and combine the liquid from all three rinses.
Use a small fan to quickly evap the combined solvent rinses to leave behind beautifully white (if a good solvent was used at the end) dmt crystals. The only impurities that could be present is a small amount of washing soda. The weaker your alcohol (if used instead of acetone) the more washing soda will be pulled along with the dmt. Harmless but indeed, undesirable. 90% rubbing alcohol from wal-mart or the dollar store (at least in the states) will do just fine.
The purity of the end product can be improved by redissolving in solvent and leaving behind anything insoluble, and re-evaporating to leave behind purer crystals.
Like it was previously stated, this certainly is not the "Best" method for extracting dmt however it DOES work. This now makes it possible for many people who previously would not or could not attempt an extraction for any of several reasons to now do so. This is a work in progress... the author will make revisions as needed. Thanks to those who inspired me to write this up, you know who you are! Peace and Godspeed!
