The Spice Rotator: Smooth & Cheap & Portable DMT-Dabbing Station

[Brennendes Wasser]

Build your own super-smooth easy-to-use and cheap dab device!​

After trying every possible device (not GVG, its 190 € with all shipping + taxes in Europe) and not getting where I wanted to be I tried to come up with something that combines all good aspects I would want to have in a device:

Smooth = no harsh vapor due to no overheating / combustion
Health = inert glass surface and no decomposition products
Cheap = total price still below any mediocre electronic / comparable device
Mobile = easily take it with you in your pocket! Stay safe traveling, travelers!

The Spice Rotator will fulfill all these requirements by dabbing DMT on a glass surface with a technique that extremely improves airflow. By doing this you can even evaporate huge doses at once.

You will need:

1x Hammer bong (just search Ebay or Amazon with: Glass Bongs Water Pipe Hammer Percolator Bubbler Oil Rig)
1x 25 mm bucket banger / insert banger (45 ° angle + must fit to Hammer Bong, should be 18 mm connector)
1x Cyclone Carb Cap (which fits the insert banger)
1x Terp Ball

How it works:

The specialized Banger (the reservoir) and Carb Cap (the lid) is specially designed to induce a circular airflow, which will rotate the terp ball in the chamber super fast. There are many versions of bangers out that induce this, I like the cyclone carb cap the most. The circullar airflow will not only fortify evaporation itself by far, but the rotation of the terp ball inside the chamber greatly alternates the whole process. The 2 results are: 1. An even stronger airflow which greatly increases evaporation and 2. It rolls out your spice flat and even so that it cannot accumulate at one (the lowest) spot. In any regular device the molten Spice will agglomerate at the lowest spot. This reduces evaporation speed and increases risk for polymerization / decomposition. The rotating ball effectively eliminates both, and additionally will aid even more on vaporization speed due to the maximized surface area of your rolled-out spice. So load your chamber and start heating. You can heat it with a tea light obviously, but a butane torch is much faster. As a sidenote the hammer bong can be filled with water to get a built-in water cooler, but that's not needed. Nevertheless using the stationary device (further down the thread) your bucket is all time hot enough, meaning that you have 0 s waiting time! When you see first vapor coming, just heat for 2-5 more seconds to be safe.

Tired of holding your device while heating / inhaling? Make a super cool podest for your Spice Rotator to use it as a Dab Rig Station - check this post! Or build the Dab Rig Station alternative below ... :thumb_up:





Want to build a stationary and even cooler version? Dab-Station Spice Rotator

A problem with the mobile version is that you always need to hold and heat your bucket manually. First, it comes with handling a flame. Second you always need to pre-heat the bucket before doing any vape. Because of this you can also built a non-mobile version, where you can just lay back and enjoy the ride without handling anything! Here the bucket is fixed at exactly the perfect height to always give the correct temperature. Then the chamber is connected to a Silicone Hose. This hose ends in a mouth piece so you can enjoy your Spice like in a Shisha-Water-bubbler! This way you can enjoy vaping spice with your friends by just passing on the mouth piece!


You will need:

1x connector FEMALE 18 mm to TUBE
1x connector MALE 14 mm or 18 mm to TUBE (as mouth piece)
1x Silicon Tube of like 1,2 m length

The Female connector just needs to be the same like your 45 ° Bucket. The Banger itself can now be also 14 mm instead of 18 mm, as you dont have the restriction of the 18 mm Hammer Bong. Just buy whatever fits your Banger. As an example the following picture shows glass with ALL glass at 14 mm joints. Side info: In reality 18 mm is 18,8 mm. But for easiness mostly it is called 18 mm. So dont worry if you suddenly read 18,8, it is exactly the same.

Now we want to FIX the banger at the perfect distance for vaporization. For me this distance was 4,7 cm from the ground where I place the tea light to the bucket. At this distance, place a tea light (mine have a aluminium thickness of 1,5 cm). Keep in mind that after a long time, the heat of a tea light can vary. So for a new session always use a fresh one to always have the correct temperature. Now just build something like a holding-mechanism that will keep the distance and correct angle of your bucket. As I am a Lego freak, I had to do it from Lego of course

And now just drop your Spice inside, close the Carb Cap and start vaping while chilling on your Sofa thanks to the Silicon tube + Mouth piece. Do your own field research if 5,7 cm is also the best distance for you. It may depend on the thickness of your tea light also. Wait until you see vapor forming and then maybe wait just to be sure for 5 more seconds. Enjoy with friends! And if you dont want to go totally weird with Lego, you can also use a regular Stativ for this.

Also great:
Want to vaporize another substance? Just adjust the distance!
MeO-DMT = 4,5 cm
Bufotenin Benzoate = 4,4 cm
Salvinorin A = 4 cm

Demonstration​

Here you see a short video of my shark pet's alien buddy vaporizing 30 mg of Cinnamon Extract! :thumb_up: Here you can see 2 short tokes to evaporate all the 30 mg, but you could also do it with 1 long toke. Everything lesser than 30 mg will evaporate so fast, that you will only need 1 toke no matter what you do :twisted: .

Easy Cleaning

Just cover the Banger with 25 % Acetic Acid from grocery and heat it up - good if you have a podest for mounting it ... Increase the distance - you need 100 °C less this time - Just leave it there and when it starts boiling you can wipe it off with a Cue-Tip or however that stuff is called:

You can also go full creazy with a regular Bong and this technique. Check out here

 

[Teamleary]

This is one of the most impressive thing I have ever seen in my entire life.
The rigor, the creativity, the seriousness, the ingenuity, the precision. This post is astonishing. Maybe I'm over reacting right now because I'm a bit high, but to me, this seems like the work of some sort of genius : )

when I think how difficult nay impossible it feels, for me, to envision extracting my own FB, seeing posts about it always impressed me. But this one... OMG ! How exciting it is, that one would have the courage and the energy to create such a device? I'm amazed! Maybe even a bit jealous! Bravo Brennedes Wasser!

 

[Jega]

Ho-lee Minecraftian hyperspace grail!
That's some impressive engineering/craftmanship right there.

Like.

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

BIG Version
(which is probably more for enthusiasts without hobbies or too much time :shock: )
​

(This was the original version, so text may sound repeating. But this text is way too long and it may look way too much of a hassle to built that thing, so I copied it over down here to be just a side-note ...)

Minimal things needed for mechanic
You may just buy cheap if not caring for esthetics, but remember that buying from China decreases your CO2-Karma.
First you need a regular glass bong with a 14,4 mm female connector (example picture). (~ 15 €)
Then you need a Quarz INSERT Bucket (15 €, because insert means it has a bigger diameter), preferably with 24 or 25 mm diameter and a 45 ° Carb Cap that induces a circular movement inside of the chamber (15 €), like the cyclone carb cap (example picture) and 1 or 2 Terp Balls (2€ each). The Terp Balls need a big area for optimal movement, so dont buy any buckets with 20 mm or less diameter.
Any cyclone carb cap is designed to create a spinning airflow inside of the Quartz Bucket. Terp Balls added to the Quartz Bucket will spin around that cavity like hell when you take any Rip from the Bong! (Youtube, only second 1 - 2 shows the real movement, it is that fast or even faster)

This ensures that at the right temperature any DMT deployed into that Bucket nearly instantly vaporizes. And because of the flatted out DMT layer instead of large crystal chunks nearly no residue will be left. You can weigh your Bucket before and after, and even a 0,001 g Scale will not notice any weight increase after vaporizing 50 mg. But on top of the evaporation speed it is also a guaranteed 100 % delivery of what you weighted, because no Spice will stick to structures / be left in a mesh / whatever. This means you get 100 % of what you weighted with your scale - a big difference to Changa for example ... Suddenly even 20 mg will take you very far and beyond.

Adjusting the correct heat / distance
Now you have to ensure that the Bucket is always at ~ 160 - 200 °C. For this you want to create a pedestral to place a tealight on top of it. Tealights cant change size when depleting and using a new tealight will definetly create the same conditions like the last one. Now measure the distance between your bucket and the tealight while observing the temperature inside of the bucket. This can be either done by dropping a solvent into the chamber, that boils above 160 °C (like high-boiling Naphtha aka. Mineral Oil with C10-C13 Alkanes, which boils at 170 - 200 °C) or by placing a thermometer (which measures up to 200 °C) inside of the bucket - yes indeed, this will tell the temperature by the heat conduction. Already after ~ 5 minutes the temperature is in its steady state and you can either increase or decrease the distance.

For me the optimal distance between top of the pedestral and bottom of the bucket (when using a tealight with a height of the aluminim shell of 1,5 cm) was 5,7 cm . You may also use this as a first guess if you cant measure it due to the lack of a thermometer and then adjust it if either the DMT is not vaporizing or the vapor is too harsh. Even though I use a shell for the tealight, it is as hot as without it - so placing it on just a flat surface will also require ~ 5,7 cm. But again, better measure it yourself to be safe.

Now if you put everything together it may look like this:

Now just put a fresh tealight at your pedestral and wait for 5 minutes to let the bucket heat to ~ 160 °C, then drop your Spice dose into the chamber and close it to take a rip which will spin the Terp Balls like hell and vaporize the spice smooooothly.


So this is the basic setup, which is really cheap and easy to aquire. But this is not an ultimate machine, which will beat any other device on earth lol: :lol: ). There are still 2 drawbacks, that could be improved, but you would have to spend more money to build it:

Additional Tweaks to improve the setup​

Adjusting the Bucket horizontally
The bucket is not placed horizontally, so the Spice may not fully spread out evenly to ensure the absolute top evaporation. Also by not using a regular chillum, but the Quartz Bucket there is no glass tube leading to the bottom of the Bong. Therefore the airflow is not directed from strictly bottom to top, which may cause more air fluctuations and whirls throughout the bong and increase the air that has to be inhaled to fully clean the bong.

Even though the Terp Balls still evaporate everything in seconds, the second problem can be effectively removed by creating a new connector with an angle, that also contains the glass tube of the chillum. With that angle the bucket will also be finally placed horizontally (next picture). A glass piece like this can be made from any bong chillum and a professional glass blower, which will charge ~ 15 € for this. You dont know any Glass Blower nearby? No worries, just go to any laboratory hardware store, they collect items to give them to collaborating glass blowers and they will return it also back to you when it is done. Cheap and increased effectiveness! Next picture shows the unimproved air flow with more chaotic swirls (left) and also the optimized airflow when using a connector with a glass tube that reaches to the bottom (right). Also notice the horizontal placement of the bucket on the right!

Now how to assemble this connector? It is just created from any regular chillum:

Creating a tube + mouth piece
The bong should not be moved too much, to prevent the temperature of the bucket fluctuate. Therefore a mouth piece like from a Shi-Sha should be made to be able to switch the bong between more people and/or just lean back while taking a rip, even if you are totally on your own. Having to lean forwards and place your mouth at a specific point is not 100 % chilled, so a mouth piece will solve this problem perfectly.
You can build one yourself by finding round wood pieces that are just smaller than the opening of the Bong mouth part itself. Then warp them with duct tape to increase the diameter to make it fit perfectly tight. Put a stopper on top and drill a hole in it to screw a tube connector into the wood. Then lastly add a flexible tube onto this, which may even get another attachment made from glass to have a real mouth piece with style. This way you can "give the device around" when doing it with friends, as you just need to pass the mouth piece, while the rest remains stationary. Cheap and stylish, next picture shows that part! Everything was bought from the same 1 hardware store except the glass mouth piece.

Creating a hyper-spacy stand
As DMT is all about mystery and spirit rituals[/color], you may create a holy ceremoy pedestral instead of just using a boring pedestral from whatever it may be. Here is mine ...

I am a Lego fanatic since ever and so it was clear that I need a Lego pedestral and not a boring one, but create the most exotic tower that I can think of. This way I could even implement multiple things:

- exact fine tuning of the temperature by adjusting the layer height with the smallest possible lego increments
- multiple layers that can be added or decreased with 1 click to switch between different temperatures
- a protection shell that is only partially permeable to ensure that the flame will burn steady without disruptions

Now it was built with the CAD Software of the biggest lego part selling page Bricklink called Stud.io and then directly imported into the shopping cart and bought for the lowest price from sellers around europe by letting the algorithm choose the best fitting sellers of that parts.

If you want to build the Spice Rotator too, then be creative and built something which expresses your own feelings or person or whatever and give this whole structure your personal spiritual touch! Maybe if somebody is about to do it, she/he may post a picture here at this thread


(Optional: ) Going full-electro
You may still think: can that tealight really always hold the temperature at the exact perfect point? And indeed it fluctates about 30 °C permanently, but it does not matter if the temperature is 160 °C or 190 °C, the vapor will always be smooth and everything will evaporate nicely. Still if you want to be a technical purist, you can even replace the tealight with the electric equivalent, which will look like this:

You will need an E-Nail (Greenlightvapes Mini E-Nail) and a coil has to specificially fit a 24 mm or 25 mm Quartz Banger (depends on what you bought, example here) so better directly buy an E-Nail with the correct Coil diameter. Then you can precisely control the temperature, even ensuring you to get to the perfect vaporization temperature of 5-MeO-DMT of 200 - 230 °C (I think) or 280 °C of Bufotenine, which may otherwise be difficoult to vaporize without overburning it. By using this method you will just need to switch the "ON" button of your E-Nail and start traveling. Still if you want to go the fashion way with a cool tealight pedestral, you would have to choose.


(Optional: ) Adding nice flavors
Do you remember that thread of Olympus Mons about Changa and how to give a special flavor to it by adding some herbs like peppermint or lemon balm or lavender? This can be done here too, by simply adding a few µl or 1-2 mg of the following substances, that coincidentally evaporate just like DMT from 150 - 200 °C:

Menthol, D-Limonene, Peppermint Oil​

These will evaporate with the DMT to give a nice flavor! But only use trace amounts, you just want to apply as less to just get a distinct aroma from it, not more than when vaporizing a herb.



... Now by combining all these parts you will unleash the full potential of the Spice Rotator, the super ancient alien technology used to invoke the souls from realms of forgotten wisdom ! :twisted:

Nice bonus: playing aroudn with air-flow
By using it you wont just simply be able to alternate the intensity of the experience by adjusting the weight of your dosage. You can also control the airflow through the device to either take a big/medium/small rip from the chamber:

Here is a summary why the this device beats any other method I can think of for now:

Smooth - DMT just evaporated at minimum temperature needed
Handling - absolute minimum handling required, just throw next portion in and start flying
Safety - no lighters required, no handling of open fires
Cleaning - just swipe 1x the bucket inside with a cotton swab soaked with Acetone/Alcohol
Healthy - no combustion, no hot metal fumes
Money - the bare minimum is very cheap and still not expensive with all other gadgets

Some more Options/Tweaks/Improvements:​

Silicone tube: Replacement for the PVC-tube, much more flexibility!

Pedestral with a second-level: Increase Temperature on demand, for example when combining the Spice Rotator with 5-MeO-DMT. But this means that you will not use it with your Spice of course, as you already have the perfect temp for it.

Air-Stopper: Completely relax on your couch without the need to hold down your finger at the kick-hole while inhaling - and plug if off when desired. Easy! Lego + foam rubber (handcraft basic ressource)

Base-plate: Create a base to attach all the things to make everything sit tight while handling with the tube mouth piece.

Now assemble everything together and place it anywhere on a desk and pass the tube around with your friends! Forgot the Air-Stopper in that Pic, but nevermind ...

 

[SynKyd]

That’s a large rig, how much ends stuck to the glass and not in your lungs through the process would be the challenge I think? Aside from trying to set it down without breaking if 30 mg hit you quick. Looks cool though.....

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

Well you dont need to put it down, as you also do not hold it in your hand. As you use it as a regular bong you will place it on its stand of course, also in conjunction with that base plate on the last picture. All you do is just holding your mouth piece and you are good to go.

Regarding Spice lost in the rig: Does not happen, I used it since some time and there is really no condensation - you just draw from the mouth piece and few seconds later everything is inhaled. And even if this WOULD happen, then the 100 % evaporation with no residue would still overcompensate any mg that would stick to any wall - compared to other methods like changa.
Also if this would be a problem then you also could not conventionally do any other administration method with a bong. For people that are still feeling uncomfortable with anything that is bigger than the GVG they could still use that mobile version, which is just a handheld pocket-sized glass piece, same dimensions as the GVG.

But I'm also putting together a micro-version right now which is basically just a tube with the Banger-ending and the moutpiece-ending. In this case the delivery would be super end-to-end, but I may even not like it that much, as being a non-smoker it is more convenient to inhale diluted vapors.

 

[RoundAbout]

Thanks for sharing, the tea light gave me pause for thought. I think you might mean pedestal rather than podest by the way. Or maybe I'm confused.

But I'm also putting together a micro-version right now which is basically just a tube with the Banger-ending and the moutpiece-ending. In this case the delivery would be super end-to-end, but I may even not like it that much, as being a non-smoker it is more convenient to inhale diluted vapors.

Yeah, I've tried with a banger (actually with a directional carb cap and terp pearls similar to you) and a short vapor path, and it can be a little much if you're not careful while inhaling.

I've also tried with an insert dish, which is convenient but an added complication.

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

Yes the tealight is a real game changer: low tech solution for the high-tech problem of maintaining an optimal temperature.

Compared to the act of making a banger glow red (where you dont even know the temperature) and letting it cool for some seconds (where you wouldn't know the temperature even more) this is a much more convenient way to heat your goodies.

But what do you mean with little much if not carefully inhaling? Like you get a too big hit O: And as far as I get it insert dishes are there to hold the temperature longer. But they are not needed here, as the heating source is permanent delivering the correct heat from below - also they would reduce the area in which the terp balls can rotate. So in this setup it would not make it any better.

you might mean pedestal rather than podest by the way

Oh well, true - fixed now.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

And if you need to use a Stativ it's called a stand (usually) Your Podest in this case may also acceptably be called a stand. A Podest for people is called a podium.

Lovely work, btw.

I'm a bit surprised you didn't build your entire bong out of Lego :lol: minus the quartz banger, of course,

 

[RoundAbout]

But what do you mean with little much if not carefully inhaling? Like you get a too big hit O:

If the vapor accumulates when you're not drawing and then you inhale without your mouth partially off (to mix cool air) the vapor can be quite irritating... especially if it's a little burnt :thumb_dow

But what do you mean with little much if not carefully inhaling? Like you get a too big hit O: And as far as I get it insert dishes are there to hold the temperature longer. But they are not needed here, as the heating source is permanent delivering the correct heat from below - also they would reduce the area in which the terp balls can rotate. So in this setup it would not make it any better.

Insert dishes can be preloaded with the spice and a terp pearl and dropped into a hot banger. Maybe not even advantageous.

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

If the vapor accumulates when you're not drawing and then you inhale without your mouth partially off (to mix cool air) the vapor can be quite irritating... especially if it's a little burnt

As you can preload any dose you would never drop more into the Bucket than you would want to smoke, so there would not be any problems with this. Also the cavity inside of the bong will always mix with the vapor and dilute it to not make up a too heavy dose. And as the DMT is only heated on a inert surface at exact evaporation temperature, you would never ever burn anything

I'm a bit surprised you didn't build your entire bong out of Lego Laughing

Omg that would be the next step - there is plenty of transparent lego :roll: But right now I still wait for a package from Lithuania, which takes ages seemingly because of Corona, to build the micro-version. That one will also look super cool and totally minimalistic :thumb_up:

 

[Propello]

Very impressive and creative setup. Looks very efficient and easy to use.

 

[potnoble]

Hi

Just wanted to say that i´m really impressed.

I´m in love with the e-mesh but that thing looks really nice.

Keep it up dyoode! :thumb_up:

 

[donfoolio]

Really nice work. Bravo Brennendes Wasser! This gives me the passion to improve my smoking engine...

 

[sbios]

With such a large volume potential, I see it could be very useful for a group launch kind of setting!

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

Indeed a first person can pull all the Spice into the Chamber and then immediately pass the mouth piece to another person, which clears out all the cavity

But I think next week the Lego will arrive (still stuck in Lithuania because of Corona ...) and then I will build the micro version, which is basically just 1 long tube and therefore the opposite of this Bong-setup.

 

[RoundAbout]

So I gave this method a shot. It worked fairly well despite my own clumsiness. I really like the simplicity of the tea light.

A couple comments:

The base of the banger seems to be a good temperature; vaporization occurred very quickly, and the vapor was not harsh. It vaporized so quickly I missed a little while fumbling with the carb cap before drawing. However, since the temperature of the base is about right, the sides are merely warm. Any crystals that touch the sides melt and then stick without vaporizing (i.e. present minutes later even with heat applied, with small amounts of vapor slowly accumulating). Still way better than using an insert at hotter temperatures IMO.

Obviously, this is user error, but it could be simpler. I'll screw around with my set up... I think I can kill two birds with one stone (i.e. have the carb cap in place while not getting any on the sides).

I attached a photo of my set-up. Surprisingly, the distance between the banger and tea light is nearly perfect as is (to 1 mm of the suggestion). This set-up was around $20 USD if I remember correctly. I have a little piece of wood to support the glass while heating.

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

Funny that the distance is nearly perfect - I was actually hoping that this would be quite ubiquitous.

A thing that I did not consider: if people are using a "special" banger, than the heat conduction may be different (mostly lower, as the one I have is just the basic one and all other fancy banger have techniques to hold heat longer, thus heat also needs more time to build up).

Your banger has this white base, which is I think created by incorporating small air bubbles into it - to hold heat longer. Therefore it should also heat up a little slower, so maybe waiting 5 minutes should be mandatory for heat buildup - but I guess you will know much better. Also consider that if you have your heating source below all the time, that "extra functionality" does not really help, so maybe you will just have a longer heat up. Still, if that is only like 1 minute or even less, then it totally doesnt matter of course. :lol:

Maybe you can fiddle a little bit with distance around, if it vaporizes too quickly. In my case there is plenty of time, as you can see in the .GIF above :shock:

I mostly would say place your Spice on a spoon - you could preweight any dose on a spoon and lay it on the table, ready to deploy. Having like 5 spoons for the whole session will eliminate the need to do any more scale-fiddling when already on flight.
Then you have the spoon in 1 hand and the cap in the other hand and dropping it in and closing it should be easy without losing any vapor - at least when I did it all the time it was like this.

Also sounds bad that some is sticking on your walls. But is it vapor condensating at the walls? I guess not, because if it vaporizes and you inhale, then there should no time for any condensation.
So you said that the crystals are sticking to it, so you mean material that you drop into the banger in the beginning - and this did not land 100 % on the ground, but some touched the walls and then sticked to it? Then maybe just try to drop it in the middle, I guess the Banger is big enough so that it wont be too hard, you can see in my .GIF that I use that spoon and place it above the banger, then lean it forwards and it can only drop into the middle. This way no crystals touch the walls :thumb_up:

 

[Brennendes Wasser]

[obsolete - handheld version is now 1. post]

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Lovely as it may be, the Lego candle stand does seem like a safety vulnerability:

it’s flammable if exposed to strong heat sources, though it’s not particularly toxic if it does burn. Expose it to 400 degrees C or more, however, and it can decompose into potentially cancer-causing chemicals. It’s not likely that your LEGO will catch fire, however. They would have to be subjected to a naked flame or something with a similar temperature. Don’t try to dry them in the oven, is what I’m saying, or make a LEGO oven.

Here.

Caution advised. Can it be made fail-safe?