That’s what I figured…. Wanted to be absolutely sure.
Hey kind of a inrelated question…..
How do you guys measure pH? I’ve got the dippin’ strips but am almost out. Before I order more I wanted to see folks’ opinions on a pH meter pen. With the electrode you dip in whatever you want to measure.
Does anyone use one of these? Are they worth it? Don’t seem to be too terribly expensive. Pick one up from Amazon for around $30.
If anyone has any experience or knowledge in this area please weigh in
ph doesnt change much when diluted, if salt content is an issue, take samples and dilute by 20x, or, experiment with your chosen acid to see where the curve is. pH is logarithmic, off hand i dont know how it converts to real quantities but if you have a solution of ph4 acidic water, not including actual reactions that are occuring that result in no change to the H+ concentration, it would take 100x less acid to give you pH 5, and 100x more to give you pH 3
also, another thing to consider is that the dilution factor becomes much less significant the further you are from neutral.
Lastly, consider getting pH standards and calibrating with those, or just have them handy as a refference to check for drift, using ones already close to some of the more gentle setpoints you intend to use. measuring things like pH 6 or pH 8-9 are where things get tricky. but your proble should pretty easily distinguish 9 from 14 or 4 from 1
to that end, a simple $5 one sold for beer is fine, again just keep standards handy to test for drift.
extra last- i used to work in a lab and do maintenance and calibration on pH sensors that cost like $20K just for the probe itself.
even good sensors will drift over time. i dont know the exact mechanism but its kind of like the ionic forces need to equalize through the bulb or something, and the sensor, or its circuitry, responds very well when theres a big difference in the in/out.
As an example, if i just exposed the probe to cleaning solution its reading 14, i rinse heavily with tap water, then distilled water to remove tap water, then i put it in a pH 7 calibration standard, it quickly shoots down from possibly 10 at that point, to 7.5, and over 10 minutes settles at 7.
20m later it could be anywhere from 7.2 to 6.8 and going all over the place. cheaper probes can drift in a buffer by up to 1 whole pH unit.
So when testing with cheaper probes who are worse with the drift that, the smaller the difference its trying to test between what it says it is currently, vs what is outside affecting it, the worse its accuracy becomes. its like draining water through a pinhole. the less water is left the slower it leaks. So get good at presumptive reading, observe where its going, not where it lands. fancier probes use integration math to calculate where its going to land and then locks the value in to there once it slows down enough. If you have done/remember calculus, this is one of those things where in integration you end up with an impossible answer because it approaches zero or some value, like, using the rectangles under the curve visualization method. In the case of the pH probe once the difference between the probes internal pH and the external pH is like 1%, the signal gets amplified in a distorted way or it just totally loses track altogether, kind of like loud tinnitus if you are in a room thats too quiet.
otherwise it may never stabilize at mild conditions. Hard rule is probably, try and get your reading within 3 minutes tops, and rinse the sensor with deionized/distilled water right before use.
Ernestine said:
How much acid is actually needed to salt a gram of dmt?
theres no fixed answer. pure DMT requires stoichiometric amounts, probably. DMT in bark is surrounded by other substances like tannins or minerals which function as buffers, where you can add acid or base and it reacts with the tannin/tannate resulting in no change in pH until all of it reacts. known predictable sources are why some teks can just say use X amount of ph4 water or whatever. alternatively, they massively overshoot and deal with seperation much later, but i found thats not practical for acacia.
When i was dealing with maidenii, i found it was best to titrate a small sample as maidenii contained stuff that would form an unfilterable gel if overshot, so about 4x i tried it in a test tube to find out how much it took to basify, then i added 80% of that to the main liquid and very slowly did the remaining 20%, which was far easier than doing it blindly. plus stuff crashed out which could be eliminated
