[quote:e28faf0086]PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES - DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION. [i:e28faf0086]This tech has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else and those are: To defat the powdered root bark by pouring strait naphtha directly into the powder without water and second, to mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark as is found in other techs. No reason to do so, this works great without going to the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields. Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified soup to much over 140 degrees F. the DMT alkaloid which has become a freebase can start to turn into a vapor causing it to be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified soup be sure that you do not let the soup get any warmer than 100-120 degrees F. to allow a fairly large margin. My advice is that one hundred degrees F. is plenty warm enough to help speed the process up if you want to do so but is not at all necessary.[/i:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086] DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction by Vortex[/b:e28faf0086] [i:e28faf0086]The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method which is very simple, the rest is just extra information for those who might be new to extractions. This extraction method can extract the majority of the alkaliod from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours from beginning to end if you have quantity of powdered root bark ready for extraction and speed the evaporation of the extraction solvent through the aid of a fan with the solvent in a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions of over 250 grams may take longer due to the time it takes to evaporate a larger volume of solvent.[/i:e28faf0086] Dimethyltryptamine AKA N,N-DMT or DMT which is contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into an amount of basified water at a pH of 13.5 which is made by dissolving a base chemical such as NaOH/sodium hydroxide into water. Basified water which will have a high enough pH to convert the DMT in the root bark powder to a freebase for absorption by naphtha can be prepared by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml of water intended, preparing enough water so that you have close to a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder (when wet) to 3/4 basified water. When the base adjusted water is mixed together with the root bark this will raise the pH to close to 13.5 which is the ideal extraction pH. The sequence the above is done in is important, be sure to make the basified water ahead of time, if the NaOH causes the water to significantly heat due to the chemical reaction let it cool to under 120 degrees F. and then mix the powdered root bark into the water for five minutes before adding naphtha. Although this extraction can be done with basified water at room temperature, if the water is still warm from the reaction of having NaOH added this will only help but do not add the root bark powder if over 120 degrees F. Use 100 or more ml (as much as you want) of room temperature naphtha per 250 grams of dry weight root bark being extracted and mix the solvent into the aqueous soup by hand using a non-reactive utensil such as stainless steel for 30 minutes at a time at room temperature to absorb the DMT alkaloid, extracting the watery mix with naphtha the same way at least three or more times over with fresh solvent each time to absorb and pull out the majority of the alkaloid in under two hours. Separate and save the naphtha from the basified mix each time. When finished extracting the root bark evaporate the DMT containing fractions of clear to slightly yellow solvent together to net fairly pure DMT in just a few hours of work. When done with this quick extraction method and prior to evaporating the solvent you have already collected, pour more clean solvent into the soup, mix for a few minutes, tightly cover to prevent evaporation of the solvent and then set aside in a dark place for a long term soaking of a few days to get the last of the alkaloid out of the root bark. If possible, mash and stir the root bark which will have settled to the bottom of the container at least once a day, twice or more a day is better. A stainless steel potato masher works great for this, do not let the basified solution get on your skin. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- [b:e28faf0086]Extraction Notes:[/b:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086]Preparing Root Bark for Extraction[/b:e28faf0086] The root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if you are willing to wait for the lye/NaOH to soften and break the root bark down into a mush which will extract just as efficiently as powdered root bark but will take a few days to completely soften enough to do so. Although this is true to reduce the amount of time required to extract this plant material it is best to powder the root bark as finely as you can through simple means. This can be done through multiple steps to break the bark down until you have a powder near the consistency of flour. First, strip and cut the bark into fine pieces with pliers or cutting dikes, tin snip shears etc., then place all of the bark in a large enough steel can so that when filled with all of the root bark it is no more than about 1/10 full (coffee cans work great, holding it between your feet) and use a five foot long inch and half or larger OD thick walled schedule 40 or heavier steel pipe to smash the pieces into a powder as you stand above the can and pound the bark into smaller and smaller pieces which will eventually become a powder mixed with harder pieces if you work it long enough. This can only be done if the can is sitting on a flat cement slab, do not try this with the can sitting on a wooden floor, not hard enough. Once you have thoroughly pulverized the root bark as best you can with a pipe you can then further powder the material or break down the pieces which remain through the use of a small high RPM coffee grinder, the top loading kind which have a stainless steel blade in the top which turns at an extremely high speed. These can be purchased from many large stores which sell kitchen items for less than twenty dollars but are not designed for a heavy work load. Because of this you should wait at least a minute between each grind or you might burn the internal thermal fuse out which is not designed to be replaced, but can be done so by removing it which of course defeats this safety feature to prevent fire if an overload occurs. [b:e28faf0086]Defatting without A-B[/b:e28faf0086] Although the extract from Mimosa hostilis root bark is usually pure enough using the above process as is, if desiring a higher purity the small amounts of fat which are in this plants root bark can be removed by a very simple step without the need to acidify and mix with water as is commonly done using what is called an Acid-Base Extraction. This can be done by adding a solvent such as naphtha directly to the dried root bark powder and stirring for just a few minutes and then once the solvent has absorbed the fats, which takes less than ten minutes, pouring the mix through a paper or cloth filter to collect the fine particles of powdered root bark suspended in the solvent and save the wet powder, discarding the solvent. The wet or dried powder can then be added to a mix of water and NaOH to raise the pH of the water to above 13 where the DMT salts contained in the powder are converted to an alkaloid or base which can then be readily extracted using a solvent such as naphtha to absorb it. This method will work to defat the root bark using the same solvent which extracts the alkaloid because the DMT contained in the dried root bark is in the form of a salt which cannot be absorbed by the solvent until a base is added with water to the powder which releases it for absorption by solvent. Because of this when doing a strait solvent defat you are in effect using the acid to base or A-B defatting process but without having to add an acid to convert the DMT into a salt because DMT contained in dried root bark already exists in the form of a salt so why use a mix of water an acid to defat the material when mixing the powder into strait solvent does the job so well? Although Mimosa hostilis root bark is already fairly fat free as is and nearly free of fats after performing a simple strait defat of the powder with room temperature solvent, for an extreme defat boil the root bark powder in hot naphtha or any solvent which will absorb plant fats such as xylene etc. and cycle several times, pouring off the old and adding fresh solvent. Some kind of paper or cloth filter should be used to strain the fine particles of root bark powder floating in the solvent each time you do so or you will loose that portion of the root bark to the solvent wash. These particles can be so fine that they can take many hours to settle to the bottom of the container. [b:e28faf0086]Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment:[/b:e28faf0086] When extracting root bark do not use plastic containers or utensils which might react with either the solvent or the base chemical. Stainless steel, glass or ceramic containers and stirring utensils are safe with these chemicals. Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves and observe all standard safe practices when working with chemicals and solvents. [b:e28faf0086]Warning, NaOH Sodium Hydroxide is Dangerous:[/b:e28faf0086] When working with NaOH/sodium hydroxide this is an extremely dangerous solution you are making. It can cause serious burns and eye damage; wear gloves and goggles, OK? Also, you will find that this compound generates a LOT of heat when it gets wet - so much so that your solution can boil over, spraying NaOH everywhere. Because of this only add and stir small amounts of NaOH base into the water a little at a time to minimize the amount of exothermic heat and bubbling. NEVER add water to a base/NaOH! Again, the powdered base should only be added incrementally and slowly dissolved into a relatively large amount of water, not the other way around. [b:e28faf0086]pH - The Basics[/b:e28faf0086] If a substance has one acid component for each base component, it is said to be neutral and has a pH value of 7. Greater than 7 is less acid, more base, and less than 7 is more acid and less base. Each unit is 10 times the previous, i.e., a pH of 9 is 10 times more base than 8, a pH of 5 is 10 times more acid than 6. Some examples of more acid like things are vinegar, orange juice, and the liquid in your car battery that makes holes in your clothes. Bases include lye, Tums, and brushing your teeth with baking soda. When acid like substances are mixed with base like substances, they react with each other producing some by-products and leaving the resulting solution with a pH somewhere between the two original values. The further apart the pH of the two substances, the more energy is released in the reaction. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in a half glass of vinegar and see what happens. pH Substance Base and Acid Examples: 13.0-14.0 Sodium Hydroxide - (NaOH, lye) 13.0-14.0 Potassium Hydroxide (KOH, lye; Caustic potash) 12.4 Lime - (Calcium Hydroxide) 11.0 Ammonia 10.5 Milk of Magnesia 8.3 Baking Soda 7.4 Human Blood 7.0 Pure Water - Neutral 6.6 Milk 4.5 Tomatoes 4.0 Wine & Beer 3.0 Apples 2.2 Vinegar - (undiluted) 2.0 Lemon Juice 1.0 Battery Acid 0 Hydrochloric Acid Go to Not Found for a list of common bases and pH [b:e28faf0086]pH Meter or Papers Are Not Required[/b:e28faf0086] If you do not have access to a pH meter or papers to confirm how base the solution is the root bark can be basified to a pH of approximately ~13 by dissolving 1 tablespoon of NaOH per 150 ml of water used to basify the root bark regardless of the quantity of water used but should be added to and thoroughly dissolved into the water prior to mixing into the root bark powder. If a bubbly emulsion forms when stirring the mix together with naphtha add more water with the NaOH base dissolved into it and stir again. Until the pH is close to 13 or more emulsions will form very easily when mixing the naphtha into the MHRB soup, after the pH is raised to close to the ideal pH of approx. 13.5 you cannot easily produce an emulsion by swift stirring but some amount will form and if too much allow the solution to sit for a few hours before the solvent is separated out from the watery mix for eventual evaporation. The emulsion should break up or subside on its own after setting still long enough bit if it will not settle out add more NaOH. The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH−] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10−14 mol/l, and pH = −log 10−14 = 14. Depending upon the pH of the water the NaOH is being dissolved into the pH can be either lower or higher than the above. As a very gross estimate, half the amount of NaOH, or 20 grams, will produce a pH close to 13.5 in water. When this pH adjusted or basified water is added to root bark the NaOH will react with the powder and lower the pH a bit. As a rough estimate, depending upon whether you are using granulized NaOH or crystals, pellets etc. three measured tablespoons should weigh close to 40 grams and should be base enough to basify 1 litre of water to close to a pH of 14 which will be lowered closer to 13 when mixing root bark powder into it. Since the ideal extraction pH of Mimosa hostilis root bark is closer to 13.5 this tech calls to have a higher ratio of NaOH to water which is approx. 1 tablespoon or 13-15 grams (depending upon whether a powder, crystals or pellets) of NaOH per 150 ml of water which should raise the pH closer to 13.5 when mixed at a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder to 3/4 basified water. While I have recommended the above ratio of water to root bark powder at 1/4 powder to 3/4 water other teks specify 10 ml of water per gram of powdered rootbark which is about 1.3 US gallons per 500 grams of root bark which is different than the amount I have recommended in this tech. Mix your root bark and basified water to the consistency you want, I do not believe anything in this process requires a high degree of exactness whether that be the amount of root bark powder to water, NaOH to water, amount of naphtha stirred in each time and so on. The fact is small to somewhat moderate departures from what I have outlined in this tech will not make a large amout of difference, especially at the high pH required to extract the root bark. For example; if you use plus or minus 20% NaOH the pH of the extraction will not be affected much, 20 percent more or less water either but if both the both the amount of water and NaOH are radically different such as far more water and far less NaOH, or far less water and far more NaOH, far less powder and far more base adjusted water etc., those departures from the outlined amounts would likely effect the required time and number of extractions performed to extract the majority of the alkaloid out of the mix but as long as the pH is still close to 13 or more the extraction will still probably provide a reasonable amount of yield. All of this becomes moot if you also perform a long term extraction (with extra stirring every day) after the short quick multiple extractions are first completed which will make up for the differences. The only thing I believe which can probably be done wrong to significantly alter the amount of yield or cause the extraction to possibly fail is if you use far more powder and far less basified water than outlined causing the powder to become only a paste, regardless of having a high pH. Now that could cause a problem with your extraction, but to tell you the truth I have not tried to know and for all I know that might produce even better results and at far less work, give it a try if you feel so inclined. This tech is based on other peoples tried and true work, not my own knowledge about chemistry which is very little. Sure, I have put a couple of new ideas into practice with this tech which I do not think have been put into a public tech before but they have probably been used by someone somewhere sometime in the past with MHRB. Who knows for sure what works best until you try, some of the best things people have come up with were from the untrained and uneducated who did not know better than to try them, ignored by the current experts who thought they would not work. Experiment, find your own best ways of doing things, this tech is just one way of many which will work. Regardless of the figures in the above paragraph to determine the amount of NaOH needed to bring the aqueous mix of root bark and water up to a pH of ~13.5 (which was based upon an earlier tech by Soma) this amount of NaOH might be more than is really required. An individual in the entheogen community has been working to with MHRB to determine the real world minimum amount of sodium hydroxide needed to efficiently extract powdered MHRB, believing that an efficient extraction can be achieved with as little as one fifth to one tenth the amount of NaOH to produce a pH close to ~13 which should be high enough for the extraction. If his tests prove this out then this tech will be later modified to specify a smaller amount of NaOH for extractions without the need to measure pH. While the higher pH of 13.5 (~five times more NaOH than at 13.0) will work just fine as far as extracting the alkaloid and reduce the amount of potential emulsion formed by stirring, reducing the amount of base dissolved into the water will make the extraction a little safer to work with but still requiring googles and rubber gloves. [b:e28faf0086]The Most Common Causes of Extraction Failures[/b:e28faf0086] Too low of a pH is the most common reason for an extraction failure due to leaving most, if not all of the alkaloid behind if you do not achieve a high enough pH. Although an amount of the total alkaloid contained in the root bark can be extracted from a basified solution at a pH of 9 to 10 at that low of a pH relatively little of the DMT will be released as a freebase causing the extraction yield to be much smaller than normal including the added trouble caused by large amounts of emulsions which will form in the extraction solvent at that low of a pH causing great difficulity in separating the solvent from the aqueous portion of the mix. Although I cannot disagree it is certainly best to have a pH meter available or pH papers which will give a clear indication of the upper end of the pH scale but most papers cannot show whether the pH is really at the ideal extraction pH. Because of this problem someone came up with a great method which does not require reading the pH and that is to add a measured about of NoAH to a specific amount of MHRB, as determined by experience. The recommended minimum amount of NaOH as specified in Somas tek is 1 teaspoon per 50 ml of water or roughly 3 tablespoons per 300 ml of water no matter how much root bark is being extracted by only using as much water as is necessary to keep the aqueous mix a watery slurry. You do NOTt want a thick mix anywhere from the consistency of hot caramel to pancake batter which are far too thick to work out very well. It is best to have the mix a little on the thin side like chicken soup than using so little water that it produces a thick mix, once all of the root bark is stirred up into the basified water. A great last measure which can be performed to be sure you have raised the pH high enough: After you have extracted everything you think you can out of your root bark double the amount of NaOH/lye mixed into the root bark and try extracting it again to see if more alkaloid comes out of the mix. This might seem like over kill and way too much lye but I have found that you can use as much as lye as two thirds the weight of the root bark being extracted. If extracting 500 grams of root bark 300 grams of lye/NaOH is not too much when dissolved into 3 liters of water and has worked out very well for me when I have increased the NaOH that much for the final couple of extractions netting an unexpected bonus of alkaloid. Due to the recent difficulty of finding pure NaOH crystals on the store shelf in the form of a drain opener some individuals have reported other bases such as KOH or potassium hydroxide can be used in place of NaOH which may be true, I do not see why not but I do not know of anyone who has reported to have successfully used that kind of base. Red Devil Lye used to be the most common source for easy to find off the shelf NaOH in the past but due to its wide spread use to manufacture illicit drugs has been voluntarily removed from the market by the manufacturer. Although if hard pressed, NaOH can be made from simple table salt through electrolysis with plus and minus electrodes with water unless absolutely necessary to go to that kind of trouble it is obviously far easier to just purchase sodium hydroxide online through one of the auction web sites which is being sold for candle making, baking (food grade) and biodiesel projects than to make your own. Caution: When adding NaOH to water to make a basified solution the chemical reaction will produce near boiling hot water which can boil over or spirt out of the container. As a safety margine do not combine extremely hot basified water to the root bark powder or vice versa if the temperature is over 120 degrees F. which if only 20 degrees hotter can possibly cause vaporization of the freebase alkaloid released into the solution to evaporate out of the mix and into the air reducing the total potential yield. [b:e28faf0086]Choice of Solvent:[/b:e28faf0086] Many solvents can be used to extract DMT from plant materials, dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride, DCM) is good one but difficult to acquire at high purity without other solvents mixed into it without special ordering from a chemical supply house. If you do use DCM this solvent is heavier than water and instead of floating on top of the aqueous mix will go to the bottom and may cause a problem due to the basified water being pushed out of the root bark and difficult to separate from this solvent later. Naphtha seems to be the most common solvent for extracting DMT from plant materials in use right now which can be obtained from several sources. What kind of naphtha is the best? I do not have an answer for this one but I can tell you what some individuals are using. VM&P naphtha is one source people have been using which is usually fairly clean, others use Ronsonol lighter fluid which is also naphtha. There is another solvent which can be used instead of naphtha and that is hexane which has been reported to be superior to naphtha for extracting DMT, although most naphtha contains an amount of hexanes too. Hexane can be purchased from art supply stores under the brand name of Bestine which is used as a rubber cement thinner. No matter what solvent you use you should check it for residuals by evaporating a portion of it in a clean bowl to see if any kind of oily contaminate remains. The more solvent you use to absorb the alkaloid out of the basified root bark the easier it will be to separate from the aqueous mix each time, leaving some behind which will have its contents diluted into fresh solvent on the second, third or last long term extraction if you choose to do so. While 100 ml per extraction of 250 grams of root bark powder when done three times or more over may be far more than is required for the amount of alkaloid extracted, on a solubility basis, more solvent makes separation much easier each time if any amount of emulsion is present. Although in my opinion using more solvent is better in that respect, more will obviously increase the total amount of evaporation time required to net the alkaloid. [b:e28faf0086]Mixing Naphtha and Trouble with Emulsions:[/b:e28faf0086] Naphtha has a lower specific gravity than water and will float on top of the aqueous mix of root bark powder, once stirring has stopped. Just stir the naphtha into the mix from a slow to moderate rate to reduce the amount of bubbly emulsion which might form. The problem with having an emulsion is that when it comes time to separate out the solvent from the solution of basified water the more bubbles which form in the solvent the less solvent you can separate out from the aqueous portion of the mix causing some of the alkaloid contained in the emulsion which is a mix of both solvent and water to be left behind. If the pH of the base adjusted water and root bark powder is not high enough mixing too fast will cause an emulsion to form which will not break down on its own even if waiting days for it to subside. At the proper pH of ~13.5 emulsions are not easily formed even through fast stirring which will last more than a few minutes after the stirring has stopped. However, a fairly slow to moderate speed stir of the naphtha into the aqueous mix is all you need to do, just fast enough to make sure the root bark powder is not allowed to settle to the bottom of the mixing container while stirring the naphtha into the solution. [b:e28faf0086]Separating the Solvent From The Aqueous Mix[/b:e28faf0086] The best tool for this is a separatory funnel which is simply a glass container with a valve on the bottom which will allow the heavier aqueous solution to be poured off of the naphtha floating on top simply by opening the valve. Some individuals use plastic baggies for this purpose by cutting one of the bottom corners out of the bag so that the heavier watery half can be drained off and pinching the bag off with their fingers just as the last of it goes out with the lighter naphtha remaining in the bag which is then drained into another container for evaporation. I do not like the idea of mixing chemicals and solvents in sandwich bags due to possible contamination and refuse to use that method unless I could find some kind of bag I know for sure will not be leached by chemicals or solvents. This particular extraction process makes using either a separatory funnel or a baggie more difficult for separating the solvent from the mix because the heavy and muddy root bark powder is left in the extraction container which would clog up either of these. If you do use a separatory funnel or homemade device to drain the aqueous solution off of the naphtha from the bottom I would wait for the root bark powder to completely settle to the bottom of the mixing container and then pour the basified water and naphtha off the top into another container but chances are unless you wait many hours you will still get enough of the root bark powder to clog a separatory funnel. Instead of using a separatory funnel I have found it easier to just use more solvent than I need for each of the multiple extractions done to a single batch of root bark and carefully pouring the solvent in the mixing container off the top and into a large measuring cup allowing some of the watery mix to go out with it. Then I can carefully pour the naphtha in the measuring cup off of the dark aqueous solution in the bottom and add it back once the naphtha has been separated from it. [b:e28faf0086]Evaporating Solvent[/b:e28faf0086] Evaporating naphtha can take a very long time if placed in a deep bowl or container. To speed things up use a broad flat glass dish to increase the surface area of the solvent to air as much as possible and place a fan nearby to blow across the top of the fluid to speed evaporation. Never do this in an enclosed room and always have sufficient ventilation, especially if using a fan with their sparky internal commutator brushes. [b:e28faf0086]Purifying the extract[/b:e28faf0086] Although many report that the extract from this process can be used as is others have found that purifying the alkaloid is a must do for them. This can be accomplished by running the extract solids through a full acid to base defat or by a couple of other ways. The freeze-precip method works fairly well. This is done by dissolving a gram of extract into a small amount of naphtha and placing it in a freezer for a few hours so that the fluid will chill to near zero degrees F. causing the solubility of the naphtha to be reduced so far that it will not hold very much of the alkaloid which causes it to deposit on the sides of the container allowing the naphtha to be poured off (saved, evaporated and worked again) to net nearly white colored DMT which is scraped off the sides of the glass. This method will NOT work if you have too little alkaloid per quanity of naphtha vise versa, too much naphtha for the amount of alkaloid dissolved into it. The best way to do this is to prepare some warmed 100-120 degree naphtha and then place your extract (i.e. 1 gram of waxy alkaoid) in a small glass or jar and slowly pour in a very small amount of naphtha into the extract, just a little bit, a few ml and then stir the extract into the solvent you have added until it will not longer dissolve any more, adding more naphtha as necessary to completely dissolve the extract but no more than is needed. You want to completely dissolve the extract into the fluid to the point where the naphtha is completely without any kind of cloud to it but not beyond that point. To be sure you do not over shoot keep adding only small amounts of naphtha and continue stirring the extract into it until you reach the point where it has all completely dissolved and do not add any more solvent or this process will not work out as well as it can. Once the naphtha has become saturated to its maximum amount of alkaloid to the point where it is no longer cloudy seal the container and put it in a very cold freezer. After a few minutes the naphtha will cloud up as the alkaloid starts to precipitate out of the solvent but should not be removed from the freezer until the fluid clears. The cold naphtha can be from clear to yellow colored but should have no amount of cloud to it or the alkaloid which can come out of the fluid has not precipitated out yet. Once the fluid has been chilled to a low enough temperature, and allowed enough time to settle the fluid will become completely translucent. At this point you can then pour the naphtha into another container (saving and evaporating it, reworking the same way) and let the glass dry for an hour or more so that you can scrape the purified alkaloid off the sides and bottom of the glass for collection. The naphtha you poured off can be evaporated back down and reworked the same way again but will likely be far darker or perhaps a bit more gummy due to the impurities left behind in it. Another way of purifying the extract is to take, for example, 1 gram of extract and place it in a small glass cup of some kind and slowly not to disturb the spice pour in, for example 50-100 ml of naphtha and water bath heat (the same as a regular canning food jar partially submerged in hot water) the solvent in the jar to about 130 degrees F., but not much hotter or the solvent will begin to hard boil. Once the naphtha is hot enough the extract will begin to melt and bubble to a little bit form a syrup like blob in the bottom of the container. Continue allowing the spice to melt and spread out in the bottom of the jar to form a film covering the entire bottom and lightly swirl the naphtha without touching the goo in the bottom for just a couple of minutes or so. Once most of the alkaloid has dispersed into the solvent and all which remains is a thin yellow fatty puddle in the bottom of the glass carefully pour the solvent off and into another container for evaporation (or freeze precipitation to further purify it if you did not use too much solvent). You might want to add more naphtha to the jar with the slime in the bottom and do it again until you have substantially reduced the amount of goo on the bottom without dissolving much of these fats into the naphtha but each subsequent fraction of solvent will have more of the fatty impurities in it. You do
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DMT Quicktek - Mimosa H. Root Bark Extraction by Vortex
- Thread starter Vortex
- Start date
Someone reported that the yield was significantly greater with this modified MHRB tech. Why? Maybe because of leaving out the acid side of the process, maybe because the root bark is kept in the basified water the whole time extracting it.... maybe a bit of both. Just guessing, it would take someone with a lot of experience with both methods to know for sure but one fellow claims he has that experience and that this process is far more yielding. I have seen the results from three extractions done this way, all very good. I saw photos of the extract from the above tech and the extract was also white and when evaporating out of naphtha produced small round raised circles with crystalline patterns within each of them and would completely melt to a clear liquid when heated enough, reforming a crystalline pattern when cooled. Regarding the photos of crystalline spice. This substance was reported to melt to a clear liquid when warmed enough so I believe the extract was probably fairly pure. The crystals in the photo were from an A-B extraction which was reported to have been cycled through A-B more than once in an attempt to reduce any fats which may have remained in the extract.
Spacehippie
Rising Star
So what were the yields that this fellow got following this tek.This tek sounds interesting but I have always had great results and yields with the marsofold tek.Does this one yield more.If so how much?
I do not have the experience to be able to tell you which is more yielding than the other, but one individual who goes by Noman at the lycaeum forum has reported that he has lots of experience with both the more standard methods and this one and that this one is higher yielding. How? I dont know. I just put this system together because I thought it would work without having to go through as many steps as the QT tech and found that it produced exactly what I was after. It was only until someone else who had lots of experience with these extractions tried it that the claim it is more yield efficient came about.
A friend sent me these figures: A standard A/B extraction of one kilo MHRB yielded 4.55 g of spice from the freeze precip. Noman's version of this tek on 100 g of the same bark yielded 900 mg from the freeze precip. Both extracts were washed with 10% ammonia and ended up at 3.6 g and 550 mg respectively. They look, taste, smoke, and recrystalize identically. I don't know why it works better either. My friend has noticed that no sludge cake forms on the bottom of his vessel like it does with an A/B. The only part that doesn't dissolve is the fibrous bits of the bark. Have you noticed this, Vortex? So maybe all that lye dissolves the bark better and makes the spice more available to the solvent. Or maybe my friend sucks at A/B extractions.
Spacehippie
Rising Star
I have a friend that recently performed an extaction using the marsofold tek and he said the yield was 6.8 grams from a kilo.This friend also said he might try this new tek by vortex sometime in the near future and see what the yield is on a kilo.
So many variables.... it is difficult to really know for sure unless the same batch of root bark is extracted by the same individual several times over using one method or the other to determine which is really better. The idea you came up with that a higher pH might help break the plant material down further and thus releasing more alkaloid to the solvent is interesting. I have not done enough of this kind of thing to really know the answer to this, just know that it works and has been confirmed by a couple of other people to work.
[quote:a1e4a98bd7="Spacehippie"]I have a friend that recently performed an extaction using the marsofold tek and he said the yield was 6.8 grams from a kilo.This friend also said he might try this new tek by vortex sometime in the near future and see what the yield is on a kilo.[/quote:a1e4a98bd7] Wow. Is that after washing? I've heard that some of the Mexican bark can yield > 1%. Has anybody tried it? There's some Oaxacan available at 1.5X the cost. Would be worth if if the yield were .75 - 1%. Vortex, I'm curious, how did you come up with the quantity of lye used in your tek?
Based on this math: The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH?] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10?14 mol/l, and pH = ?log 10?14 = 14. Which I found on the net when searching how to make a specific pH dilute by dissolving NaOH into water. Also, based on Somas tech which is actually for Acacia which native to Australia. Soma recommended 5 teaspoons NaOH per 250 ml of water or 1 teaspoon per 50 ml. At 300 ml that would be six teaspoons, divide that in half and you have three teaspoons which is a table spoon. So.... 1 tablespoon per 150 ml of water and you have Somas method. While Acacia is not MHRB this method was found to work with Mimosa too. I cannot vouch for knowing anything for myself when it comes to the amount of basification except that low amounts of base will not work at all, moderate amounts is so so.... large amounts great. Although the tek is written as if I really know my stuff I DONT. I just happen to have a whole lot of extraction experience with different but legal plants and have applied that knowledge to this particular plant material. I might be wrong in some areas, might specify an amount of something a bit more or less which reality would prove otherwise when carefully tested. I am willing to correct any mistake I might have made in this tech on faith you are right because I just dont have the experience to believe everything I have written here is the absolute best way to do things, I just know that this method has been reported to work by others. Seeing the difficulty people are having with these extractions being posted on the net I thought I\'d write one tech on this subject and walk away from it. I don\'t like the way this kind of thing is illegal in some places and don\'t want to play with fire to do more than this one. If you want to rewrite, edit and make a better tech using portions of this one for submission to some site or another please do. Maybe we can co-author something together because you have the real world experience far beyond mine.
The reason that I asked how you came up with your lye quantity is because it is exactly the same as the quantity in the tek over at the Lycaeum. I thought it an odd coincedence. Not so odd after all because that tek is based on Soma's as well.
I see, yes... it is not my design to use that quanity of NaOH and I did see that over there too. One of those lycaeum members is copy paste posting my tech over there and keeps updating it every day as I add more to it. He/she is not claiming credit and linking to this thread so it is ok with me. Besides, the above tech is really just a twist on existing techs. Now this little jewel to follow is more of my own design, it is not very efficient but will yield over a gram of alkaloid in just a couple of hours work if in a hurry. A longer term extraction will get much more out of the pound of root bark to eventually approximate the efficiency of a normal extraction but for getting some quick with hardly any work at all this tech is the one to do. Found this tek on http://www.blackclover.com.au ...the not so lazy guide can be found here: http://www.blackclover.com.au/bboard/viewtopic.php?t=70 [quote:3ebfba3a66][b:3ebfba3a66]The Lazy Mans Guide to Extracting Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark by Vortex[/b:3ebfba3a66] [i:3ebfba3a66]A report and guide for a new way of extracting MHRB[/i:3ebfba3a66] [b:3ebfba3a66]Extraction Time:[/b:3ebfba3a66] 1 gm in 2.5 hrs, 4 gm in 7 hr, 7.5 g total @48 hrs (extremely high yielding Mexican inner MHRB). [b:3ebfba3a66]Equipment: [/b:3ebfba3a66] 5 Litre ceramic mixing bowl, Potato masher, 2000 ml measuring cup, Large flat glass baking pan, Fan, VM&P Naphtha; hardware store, NaOH sodium hydroxide; online auction, often listed as Red Devil Lye. [b:3ebfba3a66]Foreword:[/b:3ebfba3a66] This process is much simpler than all of the other DMT extraction teks for Mimosa hostilis root bark. All you need to do is throw pieces of root bark into water which has had a measured amount of NaOH/sodium hydroxide dissolved into it, wait an hour, add naphtha, stir for a few minutes and then pour the naphtha off into a collection container for evaporation. In essence that is all there is to this tek. No need to fuss with acidifying the root bark for a defat, no pH papers needed, no separatory funnel, nothing fancy yet this is a very effective technique with higher yields than any other method out there yet. [b:3ebfba3a66]Here is a more detailed explanation of the extraction method using a half kilo of root bark:[/b:3ebfba3a66] Break 400 to 500 grams of Mimosa hostilis root bark, whether inner, outer or whole root into small enough pieces all of it will fit into a large ceramic or stainless steel mixing bowl with enough room left over to only fill the bowl half way to the top. Next, completely dissolve 200 grams of NaOH/sodium hydroxide into 2000-3000 ml of tap water and add to the root bark. Wait an hour for the lye/sodium hydroxide to soften up the root bark and then using a stainless steel potato masher stir and mash the base adjusted water into the pieces of root bark for 20-30 minutes and then pour in 250+ ml of naphtha into the bowl and mix for another 20-30 minutes. After you are done mixing the root bark let it sit for a few minutes so that any emulsion which might have stirred up into the solvent to settle out and then just pour the majority of the solvent off of the top of the basified aqueous mix into a large flat glass baking pan and evaporate with a fan blowing air across the top of the fluid to net 600-1000 mg of alkaloid in just a few hours. Is there any easier process to extract and isolate that much alkaloid in two to three hours from a pound of root bark? Although the initial yield will be much higher if extracting powdered root bark which takes much less time, whole or broken root bark can also provide high yields if you wait two or three days for the hard strips of bark to turn into a mush as the NaOH breaks it down further and further over time in the basified solution for a higher extraction yield. If waiting 24 hours and performing a single extraction the broken root bark the basified aqueous mix will still need to be extracted over again three or more times to get more of the DMT alkaloid out. That's it, a very simple process with yields others have reported to be much higher than the more often used A-B or acid to base teks. With dried Mimosa hostilis root bark the DMT is already in the form of a salt as is and there are so little plant fats many people simply do not bother with a defat cycle so going strait to base chemical works out very well with this material. [b:3ebfba3a66]Dry defat without acid[/b:3ebfba3a66] Although Mimosa hostilis root bark extracts fairly cleanly with minimal plant fats if you want to remove what little of it there is you can do so without adding an acid to the powder with water by just mixing the dry (no H20) root bark powder into enough naphtha to allow all of the powder to be freely stirred up into the fluid for a few minutes and then filtered out of the naphtha which is then discarded. For an extreme defat heat the naphtha to near its boiling point and then stir the powder into it but be sure to pour off every drop of naphtha you can when done and throw that naphtha away, you should not use it for anything more in the process. Once you are done with the solvent defat the root bark powder is then dumped into the basified mix, as is and wet with naphtha if you like, or after drying. No harm adding root bark with a little naphtha still soaked into it from the defat, you are just going to end up pouring more naphtha in anyway. This "dry" defat without water works very well to remove what fats there are but is not really needed if extracting the plant material at room temperature. [b:3ebfba3a66]Step by step guide for the above using a pound of root bark. [/b:3ebfba3a66] If you want to use more or less root bark fraction or multiply out everything specified in this tech for smaller or larger amounts: [b:3ebfba3a66]1.[/b:3ebfba3a66] Break a pound or 454 grams of dried of Mimosa hostilis root bark into small pieces so that no piece is longer than three inches allowing them to all nicely fit into the bottom of a large 5 liter mixing bowl with lots of extra room left over and set to the side. [b:3ebfba3a66]2.[/b:3ebfba3a66] Prepare some basified water by fully dissolving 200 grams (~13 measured tablespoons full) of NaOH/sodium hydroxide lye powder into 2 liters of tap water in a large measuring cup. [b:3ebfba3a66]3.[/b:3ebfba3a66] Add the basified water you just made to the bowl of broken root bark, stir for a few minutes and set aside for two or more hours (longer is better). [b:3ebfba3a66]4.[/b:3ebfba3a66] After soaking the root bark in high pH NaOH adjusted water (which is near a pH of 13.5 or more) for a couple of hours or more take a stainless steel potato masher and start mashing the broken root as best you can in the basified water for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). [b:3ebfba3a66]5.[/b:3ebfba3a66] After you are done mashing the root bark for a few minutes (which will still be fairly hard if only soaking 2 hours) then add 250 to 400 ml of clean room temperature naphtha (more makes separation from the soup easier) and stir the solvent into the aqueous mix for 20-30 minutes (longer is better). [b:3ebfba3a66]6.[/b:3ebfba3a66] After mixing the naphtha into the bowl pour as much of the solvent as you can easily get off of the top of the aqueous mix (naphtha floats on top in water as a distinct layer) into another container, leaving all of the dark soup behind which will be extracted over again later. Be sure not to allow any of the dark water or any of the bubbly emulsion which may have formed in the solvent to go out with it, you just want clear solvent now leaving everything else behind in the bowl. Note: If you have so much emulsion that the solvent is half filled with it wait a few minutes to an hour for it to settle out so you can get more of the solvent out. [b:3ebfba3a66]7.[/b:3ebfba3a66] Take all of the clear naphtha without any water or bubbles in it you have carefully separated from the basified mix of water and root bark and pour all of it into as large a flat glass container you can find for evaporation. Using a fan to blow air across the top of the fluid will help speed the rate of evaporation several fold faster. [b:3ebfba3a66]8.[/b:3ebfba3a66] After all of the naphtha has been evaporated you will find small white DMT bumps of extract stuck to the glass which can be scraped off with a flat blade. If you also see some shiny clear film on the glass it is best to wait until they completely solidify into a white deposit of DMT before scraping off together with the larger white clumps. [b:3ebfba3a66]Extraction notes:[/b:3ebfba3a66] When this extraction process was first tried with inner root bark 1.0 grams of very white alkaloid without discernable fat impurities was extracted from beginning to end in just 2 and a half hours and that includes the time to fan evaporate the naphtha in a broad flat glass pan. Of course, the aqueous mix of root bark needs to be extracted over to get more of the alkaloid out of the mix but you can get plenty of DMT for unspecified uses in a short amount of time this way with a minimal amount of elbow grease and time. Soaking the root bark in basified water The broken inner root bark was soaked in 2 liters of water with 75 grams of NaOH dissolved into it for 1 hour before trying to mash the root bark in the basified water with a potato masher. The bark almost immediately became a dark black color and the water soon after became very dark brown colored which after 30 minutes of working the root bark with a masher started to appear more black than brown. The first extraction cycle: After that 400 ml of naphtha was poured into the aqueous basified mix which was then stirred for 30 minutes with a potato masher so that the solvent would absorb the alkaloid released from the root bark by the high pH water. I like to use 300-400 ml of solvent per extraction to make separation from the basified portion of the mix easier. Then the naphtha was carefully and slowly poured off the top of the aqueous mix into another container for full evaporation to net a full gram of white alkaloid from 500 grams of inner Mimosa hostilis root bark without powdering it. Second extraction, NaOH doubled: Right after this first extraction I wanted to see if increasing the amount of NaOH would increase the yield so 75 more grams of sodium hydroxide was dissolved into ~750 ml of additional water and added to the mix with 400 more ml of naphtha poured into the bowl which was stirred again for close to 30 minutes and carefully separated from the mix for evaporation. With the amount of NaOH doubled the yield was found to be 50% greater at 1.5 grams of alkaloid and because of this I recommend a minimum of 150 grams of NaOH for 2 liters of water when extracting 250 to 500 grams of broken root bark and from 200-250 grams of this base per 3+ liters of water when extracting from 500 to 1000 grams of broken root bark. Third extraction After the first two extractions the root bark was extracted a third time right way. 400 ml of fresh solvent was added to the mix again and stirred for 30 minutes before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation to yield about ~1.25 grams on the third try that day, all in just a few hours. From there another 400 ml of naphtha (which is way more than needed on a solubility basis) was added to the brown to black appearing aqueous solution, covered to prevent further evaporation and put away to soak for close to 24 hours. Forth extraction, long soak: After another day the root bark had become far softer and almost slimy instead of stiff root bark as it had been the day before, the NaOH clearly doing its job at breaking the plant material down. The solvent from this forth long term extraction was evaporated to yield another 1.5 grams of white extract for a total of close to 5 grams of impure DMT from 500 grams of inner root bark from the four extractions spread over 30+ hours from when the root bark was first placed in the bowl. Fifth extraction, another 24 hours and warming: For this fifth extraction of the aqueous solution naphtha was added into the bowl and allowed to sit another 24 hours before pouring the naphtha off for evaporation. An hour before pouring it off the mix was warmed to 120 degrees F. and stirred for 20 minutes. Upon evaporation I found that the warming had made quite a difference, even after having extracted the mix four times prior I found that I was able to draw nearly 2 grams of alkaloid into the solvent this time which was more than any of the previous single extractions, even greater than the first or second which you would naturally assume would be greater. Part of the reason for this might be that the root bark had soaked in the basified solution longer releasing more alkaloid to the water and also part due to both the basified mix and solvent being warm but in any case the draw was highest on the fifth extraction of the solution bringing the total net up to ~6.5 grams with more left in the root bark to get out, all from 500 grams of inner root bark. Sixth extraction, more heat caused problems: A sixth and last extraction was performed to the mix by pouring 500 ml of fresh naphtha back into the bowl, stirring for a few minutes and then heating the aqueous solution under the naphtha to 130 degrees F. for an hour, stirring often. The temperature of the naphtha floating on top of the basified solution was measured to be 10-15 degrees cooler than the basified mix below it due to what I assume was being caused by cooling as the solvent evaporated off the top, even though a fairly slow rate of evaporation. After an hour at 130 F. the warm naphtha was poured off for rapid fan evaporation in the large flat glass pan which yielded close to 2 grams of yellowish extract (only becoming yellow after solidifying, clear until then) but this time upon cooling did not firm up very quickly and even after 8 hours was a very soft sticky extract which was obviously mostly DMT as indicated by both smell and crystalline formations but would not dry into a firm wax-like substance very quickly due to what I believe might be fatty impurities released from the root bark when heated too far in the base solution. Extraction advice; soak longer, extract more with less work: Instead of all of the multiple extractions one after the other you could save yourself some work by just throwing 500 grams of broken pieces of root bark into 2 liters of water with 200 grams of NaOH dissolved into the water and then pour in 750 ml of naphtha and set the whole container aside for three days, stirring just once a day for 20 minutes at a time. After three days the solvent from a single draw of the aqueous mix should contain far more alkaloid, maybe has high as two thirds the total amount I had pulled out in four separate draws done over 24 hours. Obviously, even after letting the mix sit for three days and a very successful first big pull of the alkaloid from the mix you will need to re-extract the aqueous solution with more naphtha at least three times to get the bulk of the alkaloid out but then you could probably still continue extracting the mix a half dozen times or more and still get more of the alkaloid out each time, although ever diminishing returns. You just have to decide how much you want to get out of the mix before considering it a waste of time or solvent to continue working at it. Notes on separating the naphtha from the aqueous mix: When separating the naphtha from the NaOH/water/root you may need to first pour the solvent off the top of the mix into a large measuring cup allowing some of the dark basified water to come over with it so that you can more easily pour the solvent off using the small spout on the measuring cup because when pouring the solvent out of a bowl it is difficult to control what pours out. To warm or not to warm the basified mix of root bark: Although the majority of the alkaloid had been extracted at room temperature for this extraction I found that the amount of alkaloid extracted is greater when the mix is warmed up to 100 degrees F. - Whether it is a good idea to warm highly basified DMT containing plant material I do not know. Although the yield was greater in a shorter amount of time on that last draw at over 130 degrees F. the extract was different, although clear before complete evaporation of the naphtha it turned a yellow color and remained as a syrup-like liquid for two days, although which took days to begin to crystalize yet it appears to be fairly high percentage DMT by both smell and appearance when it does crystalize. Perhaps heating the mix allows plant fats to come over which did not do so before? Perhaps Not being any kind of a chemist I do not know the answer to this but I can accurately report on what I observed which is all this tech really is, a report. When soaking the root bark in the warmed solution be sure to periodically check the temperature to make sure the solution does not go over 120 F. or you might get a lot of the gummy impurities in the extract which showed up when I did so. Even though I am recommending 100 degrees F. and suggesting an upper limit of 120 degrees F. even 100 F might be too warm if over a long enough period of time causing some of the gummy substance I had observed coming over into the solvent at ~130+ degrees to be extracted. To assure this substance does not extract along with the alkaloid it might be better to just leave the solution at normal room temperatures while soaking the bark in the aqueous mix for 72+ hours and only raise the solution to 120 degrees F. for an hour prior to pouring the solvent off for evaporation. If you decide to heat your basified mix with naphtha in it for hours to days as the root bark is broken down by the NaOH I would cover the container with kitchen plastic wrap or something to slow the evaporation of the naphtha. After 48 hours the root bark is broken down pretty good by the lye to where it becomes fairly soft and extracts well but if you are using powdered root bark I do not believe it would be necessary to soak the bark for that long a period of time at all, probably just an hour or more should be enough to chemically break the powder itself down further for a higher extraction yield. There is a report that DMT will break down in solution over time, more easily if at high pH. While I have not verified this report I did get a runny extract when the temperature was allowed to rise to 130+ degrees for an hour. Just in case, if you do one of these extractions at the high pH called for in this tech to help break the root bark down (and to increase the amount of yield which comes over at a pH of 13.5) I would limit the amount of time the root bark soaks in the basified mix to no more than three days. [b:3ebfba3a66]A few last words about the tek[/b:3ebfba3a66] Although I have written this tek as a how to do guide, it is also a report and not meant to imply that this is "the way" to do an extraction, it is just one way which I am sure can be improved upon as people start getting more experience with it. I might not be doing everything just right, but I think I am close with the amount of yield that I was able to get. Heating is the big question, should we heat a basified mix at all? I don't know, but the yields do come over fast if you do. Maybe the safe thing to do is only heat the mix just prior to the last hour or so and keep the mix at room temperature the rest of the time.[/quote:3ebfba3a66]
[quote:967ba6ba73="Vortex"] One of those lycaeum members is copy paste posting my tech over there and keeps updating it every day as I add more to it. [/quote:967ba6ba73] Where is over there? I've seen links, but I haven't seen either of your teks posted at the Lycaeum. I have seen them somewhere before though, and it's driveng me crazy trying to remember where.
Hi i followed this tek to the letter and used Methylene Chloride from a chem friend and ran into trouble finding any layers in the separation. All dark except for the sludge. I assume the DCM which is heavier than water settled b/w the sludge and the upper layer. My 1st thought is to simply separate the sludge and move on. Any thoughts? Also is a wash necessary?
I think the problem is that the sludge sinks and so does the methylene chloride so they stay mixed. I'd strain the lot through cheesecloth and see if the MC separates then. As for a wash, yes all of these heavy lye methods will require washing or recrystalization.
it worked per what you said. now. I had been expecting a thicker solvent DCM layer; i'm sure it was there the 1st time but I didn't see it. It ended being at the very bottom, nestled in the goo. I think though that if you use DCM in this tek it takes a lot more solvent as it is under the goo layer.. I'm going to try Naphtma next time. Thanks!