[quote:e28faf0086]PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES - DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION. [i:e28faf0086]This tech has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else and those are: To defat the powdered root bark by pouring strait naphtha directly into the powder without water and second, to mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark as is found in other techs. No reason to do so, this works great without going to the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields. Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified soup to much over 140 degrees F. the DMT alkaloid which has become a freebase can start to turn into a vapor causing it to be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified soup be sure that you do not let the soup get any warmer than 100-120 degrees F. to allow a fairly large margin. My advice is that one hundred degrees F. is plenty warm enough to help speed the process up if you want to do so but is not at all necessary.[/i:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086] DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction by Vortex[/b:e28faf0086] [i:e28faf0086]The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method which is very simple, the rest is just extra information for those who might be new to extractions. This extraction method can extract the majority of the alkaliod from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours from beginning to end if you have quantity of powdered root bark ready for extraction and speed the evaporation of the extraction solvent through the aid of a fan with the solvent in a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions of over 250 grams may take longer due to the time it takes to evaporate a larger volume of solvent.[/i:e28faf0086] Dimethyltryptamine AKA N,N-DMT or DMT which is contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into an amount of basified water at a pH of 13.5 which is made by dissolving a base chemical such as NaOH/sodium hydroxide into water. Basified water which will have a high enough pH to convert the DMT in the root bark powder to a freebase for absorption by naphtha can be prepared by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml of water intended, preparing enough water so that you have close to a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder (when wet) to 3/4 basified water. When the base adjusted water is mixed together with the root bark this will raise the pH to close to 13.5 which is the ideal extraction pH. The sequence the above is done in is important, be sure to make the basified water ahead of time, if the NaOH causes the water to significantly heat due to the chemical reaction let it cool to under 120 degrees F. and then mix the powdered root bark into the water for five minutes before adding naphtha. Although this extraction can be done with basified water at room temperature, if the water is still warm from the reaction of having NaOH added this will only help but do not add the root bark powder if over 120 degrees F. Use 100 or more ml (as much as you want) of room temperature naphtha per 250 grams of dry weight root bark being extracted and mix the solvent into the aqueous soup by hand using a non-reactive utensil such as stainless steel for 30 minutes at a time at room temperature to absorb the DMT alkaloid, extracting the watery mix with naphtha the same way at least three or more times over with fresh solvent each time to absorb and pull out the majority of the alkaloid in under two hours. Separate and save the naphtha from the basified mix each time. When finished extracting the root bark evaporate the DMT containing fractions of clear to slightly yellow solvent together to net fairly pure DMT in just a few hours of work. When done with this quick extraction method and prior to evaporating the solvent you have already collected, pour more clean solvent into the soup, mix for a few minutes, tightly cover to prevent evaporation of the solvent and then set aside in a dark place for a long term soaking of a few days to get the last of the alkaloid out of the root bark. If possible, mash and stir the root bark which will have settled to the bottom of the container at least once a day, twice or more a day is better. A stainless steel potato masher works great for this, do not let the basified solution get on your skin. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- [b:e28faf0086]Extraction Notes:[/b:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086]Preparing Root Bark for Extraction[/b:e28faf0086] The root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if you are willing to wait for the lye/NaOH to soften and break the root bark down into a mush which will extract just as efficiently as powdered root bark but will take a few days to completely soften enough to do so. Although this is true to reduce the amount of time required to extract this plant material it is best to powder the root bark as finely as you can through simple means. This can be done through multiple steps to break the bark down until you have a powder near the consistency of flour. First, strip and cut the bark into fine pieces with pliers or cutting dikes, tin snip shears etc., then place all of the bark in a large enough steel can so that when filled with all of the root bark it is no more than about 1/10 full (coffee cans work great, holding it between your feet) and use a five foot long inch and half or larger OD thick walled schedule 40 or heavier steel pipe to smash the pieces into a powder as you stand above the can and pound the bark into smaller and smaller pieces which will eventually become a powder mixed with harder pieces if you work it long enough. This can only be done if the can is sitting on a flat cement slab, do not try this with the can sitting on a wooden floor, not hard enough. Once you have thoroughly pulverized the root bark as best you can with a pipe you can then further powder the material or break down the pieces which remain through the use of a small high RPM coffee grinder, the top loading kind which have a stainless steel blade in the top which turns at an extremely high speed. These can be purchased from many large stores which sell kitchen items for less than twenty dollars but are not designed for a heavy work load. Because of this you should wait at least a minute between each grind or you might burn the internal thermal fuse out which is not designed to be replaced, but can be done so by removing it which of course defeats this safety feature to prevent fire if an overload occurs. [b:e28faf0086]Defatting without A-B[/b:e28faf0086] Although the extract from Mimosa hostilis root bark is usually pure enough using the above process as is, if desiring a higher purity the small amounts of fat which are in this plants root bark can be removed by a very simple step without the need to acidify and mix with water as is commonly done using what is called an Acid-Base Extraction. This can be done by adding a solvent such as naphtha directly to the dried root bark powder and stirring for just a few minutes and then once the solvent has absorbed the fats, which takes less than ten minutes, pouring the mix through a paper or cloth filter to collect the fine particles of powdered root bark suspended in the solvent and save the wet powder, discarding the solvent. The wet or dried powder can then be added to a mix of water and NaOH to raise the pH of the water to above 13 where the DMT salts contained in the powder are converted to an alkaloid or base which can then be readily extracted using a solvent such as naphtha to absorb it. This method will work to defat the root bark using the same solvent which extracts the alkaloid because the DMT contained in the dried root bark is in the form of a salt which cannot be absorbed by the solvent until a base is added with water to the powder which releases it for absorption by solvent. Because of this when doing a strait solvent defat you are in effect using the acid to base or A-B defatting process but without having to add an acid to convert the DMT into a salt because DMT contained in dried root bark already exists in the form of a salt so why use a mix of water an acid to defat the material when mixing the powder into strait solvent does the job so well? Although Mimosa hostilis root bark is already fairly fat free as is and nearly free of fats after performing a simple strait defat of the powder with room temperature solvent, for an extreme defat boil the root bark powder in hot naphtha or any solvent which will absorb plant fats such as xylene etc. and cycle several times, pouring off the old and adding fresh solvent. Some kind of paper or cloth filter should be used to strain the fine particles of root bark powder floating in the solvent each time you do so or you will loose that portion of the root bark to the solvent wash. These particles can be so fine that they can take many hours to settle to the bottom of the container. [b:e28faf0086]Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment:[/b:e28faf0086] When extracting root bark do not use plastic containers or utensils which might react with either the solvent or the base chemical. Stainless steel, glass or ceramic containers and stirring utensils are safe with these chemicals. Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves and observe all standard safe practices when working with chemicals and solvents. [b:e28faf0086]Warning, NaOH Sodium Hydroxide is Dangerous:[/b:e28faf0086] When working with NaOH/sodium hydroxide this is an extremely dangerous solution you are making. It can cause serious burns and eye damage; wear gloves and goggles, OK? Also, you will find that this compound generates a LOT of heat when it gets wet - so much so that your solution can boil over, spraying NaOH everywhere. Because of this only add and stir small amounts of NaOH base into the water a little at a time to minimize the amount of exothermic heat and bubbling. NEVER add water to a base/NaOH! Again, the powdered base should only be added incrementally and slowly dissolved into a relatively large amount of water, not the other way around. [b:e28faf0086]pH - The Basics[/b:e28faf0086] If a substance has one acid component for each base component, it is said to be neutral and has a pH value of 7. Greater than 7 is less acid, more base, and less than 7 is more acid and less base. Each unit is 10 times the previous, i.e., a pH of 9 is 10 times more base than 8, a pH of 5 is 10 times more acid than 6. Some examples of more acid like things are vinegar, orange juice, and the liquid in your car battery that makes holes in your clothes. Bases include lye, Tums, and brushing your teeth with baking soda. When acid like substances are mixed with base like substances, they react with each other producing some by-products and leaving the resulting solution with a pH somewhere between the two original values. The further apart the pH of the two substances, the more energy is released in the reaction. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in a half glass of vinegar and see what happens. pH Substance Base and Acid Examples: 13.0-14.0 Sodium Hydroxide - (NaOH, lye) 13.0-14.0 Potassium Hydroxide (KOH, lye; Caustic potash) 12.4 Lime - (Calcium Hydroxide) 11.0 Ammonia 10.5 Milk of Magnesia 8.3 Baking Soda 7.4 Human Blood 7.0 Pure Water - Neutral 6.6 Milk 4.5 Tomatoes 4.0 Wine & Beer 3.0 Apples 2.2 Vinegar - (undiluted) 2.0 Lemon Juice 1.0 Battery Acid 0 Hydrochloric Acid Go to Not Found for a list of common bases and pH [b:e28faf0086]pH Meter or Papers Are Not Required[/b:e28faf0086] If you do not have access to a pH meter or papers to confirm how base the solution is the root bark can be basified to a pH of approximately ~13 by dissolving 1 tablespoon of NaOH per 150 ml of water used to basify the root bark regardless of the quantity of water used but should be added to and thoroughly dissolved into the water prior to mixing into the root bark powder. If a bubbly emulsion forms when stirring the mix together with naphtha add more water with the NaOH base dissolved into it and stir again. Until the pH is close to 13 or more emulsions will form very easily when mixing the naphtha into the MHRB soup, after the pH is raised to close to the ideal pH of approx. 13.5 you cannot easily produce an emulsion by swift stirring but some amount will form and if too much allow the solution to sit for a few hours before the solvent is separated out from the watery mix for eventual evaporation. The emulsion should break up or subside on its own after setting still long enough bit if it will not settle out add more NaOH. The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH−] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10−14 mol/l, and pH = −log 10−14 = 14. Depending upon the pH of the water the NaOH is being dissolved into the pH can be either lower or higher than the above. As a very gross estimate, half the amount of NaOH, or 20 grams, will produce a pH close to 13.5 in water. When this pH adjusted or basified water is added to root bark the NaOH will react with the powder and lower the pH a bit. As a rough estimate, depending upon whether you are using granulized NaOH or crystals, pellets etc. three measured tablespoons should weigh close to 40 grams and should be base enough to basify 1 litre of water to close to a pH of 14 which will be lowered closer to 13 when mixing root bark powder into it. Since the ideal extraction pH of Mimosa hostilis root bark is closer to 13.5 this tech calls to have a higher ratio of NaOH to water which is approx. 1 tablespoon or 13-15 grams (depending upon whether a powder, crystals or pellets) of NaOH per 150 ml of water which should raise the pH closer to 13.5 when mixed at a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder to 3/4 basified water. While I have recommended the above ratio of water to root bark powder at 1/4 powder to 3/4 water other teks specify 10 ml of water per gram of powdered rootbark which is about 1.3 US gallons per 500 grams of root bark which is different than the amount I have recommended in this tech. Mix your root bark and basified water to the consistency you want, I do not believe anything in this process requires a high degree of exactness whether that be the amount of root bark powder to water, NaOH to water, amount of naphtha stirred in each time and so on. The fact is small to somewhat moderate departures from what I have outlined in this tech will not make a large amout of difference, especially at the high pH required to extract the root bark. For example; if you use plus or minus 20% NaOH the pH of the extraction will not be affected much, 20 percent more or less water either but if both the both the amount of water and NaOH are radically different such as far more water and far less NaOH, or far less water and far more NaOH, far less powder and far more base adjusted water etc., those departures from the outlined amounts would likely effect the required time and number of extractions performed to extract the majority of the alkaloid out of the mix but as long as the pH is still close to 13 or more the extraction will still probably provide a reasonable amount of yield. All of this becomes moot if you also perform a long term extraction (with extra stirring every day) after the short quick multiple extractions are first completed which will make up for the differences. The only thing I believe which can probably be done wrong to significantly alter the amount of yield or cause the extraction to possibly fail is if you use far more powder and far less basified water than outlined causing the powder to become only a paste, regardless of having a high pH. Now that could cause a problem with your extraction, but to tell you the truth I have not tried to know and for all I know that might produce even better results and at far less work, give it a try if you feel so inclined. This tech is based on other peoples tried and true work, not my own knowledge about chemistry which is very little. Sure, I have put a couple of new ideas into practice with this tech which I do not think have been put into a public tech before but they have probably been used by someone somewhere sometime in the past with MHRB. Who knows for sure what works best until you try, some of the best things people have come up with were from the untrained and uneducated who did not know better than to try them, ignored by the current experts who thought they would not work. Experiment, find your own best ways of doing things, this tech is just one way of many which will work. Regardless of the figures in the above paragraph to determine the amount of NaOH needed to bring the aqueous mix of root bark and water up to a pH of ~13.5 (which was based upon an earlier tech by Soma) this amount of NaOH might be more than is really required. An individual in the entheogen community has been working to with MHRB to determine the real world minimum amount of sodium hydroxide needed to efficiently extract powdered MHRB, believing that an efficient extraction can be achieved with as little as one fifth to one tenth the amount of NaOH to produce a pH close to ~13 which should be high enough for the extraction. If his tests prove this out then this tech will be later modified to specify a smaller amount of NaOH for extractions without the need to measure pH. While the higher pH of 13.5 (~five times more NaOH than at 13.0) will work just fine as far as extracting the alkaloid and reduce the amount of potential emulsion formed by stirring, reducing the amount of base dissolved into the water will make the extraction a little safer to work with but still requiring googles and rubber gloves. [b:e28faf0086]The Most Common Causes of Extraction Failures[/b:e28faf0086] Too low of a pH is the most common reason for an extraction failure due to leaving most, if not all of the alkaloid behind if you do not achieve a high enough pH. Although an amount of the total alkaloid contained in the root bark can be extracted from a basified solution at a pH of 9 to 10 at that low of a pH relatively little of the DMT will be released as a freebase causing the extraction yield to be much smaller than normal including the added trouble caused by large amounts of emulsions which will form in the extraction solvent at that low of a pH causing great difficulity in separating the solvent from the aqueous portion of the mix. Although I cannot disagree it is certainly best to have a pH meter available or pH papers which will give a clear indication of the upper end of the pH scale but most papers cannot show whether the pH is really at the ideal extraction pH. Because of this problem someone came up with a great method which does not require reading the pH and that is to add a measured about of NoAH to a specific amount of MHRB, as determined by experience. The recommended minimum amount of NaOH as specified in Somas tek is 1 teaspoon per 50 ml of water or roughly 3 tablespoons per 300 ml of water no matter how much root bark is being extracted by only using as much water as is necessary to keep the aqueous mix a watery slurry. You do NOTt want a thick mix anywhere from the consistency of hot caramel to pancake batter which are far too thick to work out very well. It is best to have the mix a little on the thin side like chicken soup than using so little water that it produces a thick mix, once all of the root bark is stirred up into the basified water. A great last measure which can be performed to be sure you have raised the pH high enough: After you have extracted everything you think you can out of your root bark double the amount of NaOH/lye mixed into the root bark and try extracting it again to see if more alkaloid comes out of the mix. This might seem like over kill and way too much lye but I have found that you can use as much as lye as two thirds the weight of the root bark being extracted. If extracting 500 grams of root bark 300 grams of lye/NaOH is not too much when dissolved into 3 liters of water and has worked out very well for me when I have increased the NaOH that much for the final couple of extractions netting an unexpected bonus of alkaloid. Due to the recent difficulty of finding pure NaOH crystals on the store shelf in the form of a drain opener some individuals have reported other bases such as KOH or potassium hydroxide can be used in place of NaOH which may be true, I do not see why not but I do not know of anyone who has reported to have successfully used that kind of base. Red Devil Lye used to be the most common source for easy to find off the shelf NaOH in the past but due to its wide spread use to manufacture illicit drugs has been voluntarily removed from the market by the manufacturer. Although if hard pressed, NaOH can be made from simple table salt through electrolysis with plus and minus electrodes with water unless absolutely necessary to go to that kind of trouble it is obviously far easier to just purchase sodium hydroxide online through one of the auction web sites which is being sold for candle making, baking (food grade) and biodiesel projects than to make your own. Caution: When adding NaOH to water to make a basified solution the chemical reaction will produce near boiling hot water which can boil over or spirt out of the container. As a safety margine do not combine extremely hot basified water to the root bark powder or vice versa if the temperature is over 120 degrees F. which if only 20 degrees hotter can possibly cause vaporization of the freebase alkaloid released into the solution to evaporate out of the mix and into the air reducing the total potential yield. [b:e28faf0086]Choice of Solvent:[/b:e28faf0086] Many solvents can be used to extract DMT from plant materials, dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride, DCM) is good one but difficult to acquire at high purity without other solvents mixed into it without special ordering from a chemical supply house. If you do use DCM this solvent is heavier than water and instead of floating on top of the aqueous mix will go to the bottom and may cause a problem due to the basified water being pushed out of the root bark and difficult to separate from this solvent later. Naphtha seems to be the most common solvent for extracting DMT from plant materials in use right now which can be obtained from several sources. What kind of naphtha is the best? I do not have an answer for this one but I can tell you what some individuals are using. VM&P naphtha is one source people have been using which is usually fairly clean, others use Ronsonol lighter fluid which is also naphtha. There is another solvent which can be used instead of naphtha and that is hexane which has been reported to be superior to naphtha for extracting DMT, although most naphtha contains an amount of hexanes too. Hexane can be purchased from art supply stores under the brand name of Bestine which is used as a rubber cement thinner. No matter what solvent you use you should check it for residuals by evaporating a portion of it in a clean bowl to see if any kind of oily contaminate remains. The more solvent you use to absorb the alkaloid out of the basified root bark the easier it will be to separate from the aqueous mix each time, leaving some behind which will have its contents diluted into fresh solvent on the second, third or last long term extraction if you choose to do so. While 100 ml per extraction of 250 grams of root bark powder when done three times or more over may be far more than is required for the amount of alkaloid extracted, on a solubility basis, more solvent makes separation much easier each time if any amount of emulsion is present. Although in my opinion using more solvent is better in that respect, more will obviously increase the total amount of evaporation time required to net the alkaloid. [b:e28faf0086]Mixing Naphtha and Trouble with Emulsions:[/b:e28faf0086] Naphtha has a lower specific gravity than water and will float on top of the aqueous mix of root bark powder, once stirring has stopped. Just stir the naphtha into the mix from a slow to moderate rate to reduce the amount of bubbly emulsion which might form. The problem with having an emulsion is that when it comes time to separate out the solvent from the solution of basified water the more bubbles which form in the solvent the less solvent you can separate out from the aqueous portion of the mix causing some of the alkaloid contained in the emulsion which is a mix of both solvent and water to be left behind. If the pH of the base adjusted water and root bark powder is not high enough mixing too fast will cause an emulsion to form which will not break down on its own even if waiting days for it to subside. At the proper pH of ~13.5 emulsions are not easily formed even through fast stirring which will last more than a few minutes after the stirring has stopped. However, a fairly slow to moderate speed stir of the naphtha into the aqueous mix is all you need to do, just fast enough to make sure the root bark powder is not allowed to settle to the bottom of the mixing container while stirring the naphtha into the solution. [b:e28faf0086]Separating the Solvent From The Aqueous Mix[/b:e28faf0086] The best tool for this is a separatory funnel which is simply a glass container with a valve on the bottom which will allow the heavier aqueous solution to be poured off of the naphtha floating on top simply by opening the valve. Some individuals use plastic baggies for this purpose by cutting one of the bottom corners out of the bag so that the heavier watery half can be drained off and pinching the bag off with their fingers just as the last of it goes out with the lighter naphtha remaining in the bag which is then drained into another container for evaporation. I do not like the idea of mixing chemicals and solvents in sandwich bags due to possible contamination and refuse to use that method unless I could find some kind of bag I know for sure will not be leached by chemicals or solvents. This particular extraction process makes using either a separatory funnel or a baggie more difficult for separating the solvent from the mix because the heavy and muddy root bark powder is left in the extraction container which would clog up either of these. If you do use a separatory funnel or homemade device to drain the aqueous solution off of the naphtha from the bottom I would wait for the root bark powder to completely settle to the bottom of the mixing container and then pour the basified water and naphtha off the top into another container but chances are unless you wait many hours you will still get enough of the root bark powder to clog a separatory funnel. Instead of using a separatory funnel I have found it easier to just use more solvent than I need for each of the multiple extractions done to a single batch of root bark and carefully pouring the solvent in the mixing container off the top and into a large measuring cup allowing some of the watery mix to go out with it. Then I can carefully pour the naphtha in the measuring cup off of the dark aqueous solution in the bottom and add it back once the naphtha has been separated from it. [b:e28faf0086]Evaporating Solvent[/b:e28faf0086] Evaporating naphtha can take a very long time if placed in a deep bowl or container. To speed things up use a broad flat glass dish to increase the surface area of the solvent to air as much as possible and place a fan nearby to blow across the top of the fluid to speed evaporation. Never do this in an enclosed room and always have sufficient ventilation, especially if using a fan with their sparky internal commutator brushes. [b:e28faf0086]Purifying the extract[/b:e28faf0086] Although many report that the extract from this process can be used as is others have found that purifying the alkaloid is a must do for them. This can be accomplished by running the extract solids through a full acid to base defat or by a couple of other ways. The freeze-precip method works fairly well. This is done by dissolving a gram of extract into a small amount of naphtha and placing it in a freezer for a few hours so that the fluid will chill to near zero degrees F. causing the solubility of the naphtha to be reduced so far that it will not hold very much of the alkaloid which causes it to deposit on the sides of the container allowing the naphtha to be poured off (saved, evaporated and worked again) to net nearly white colored DMT which is scraped off the sides of the glass. This method will NOT work if you have too little alkaloid per quanity of naphtha vise versa, too much naphtha for the amount of alkaloid dissolved into it. The best way to do this is to prepare some warmed 100-120 degree naphtha and then place your extract (i.e. 1 gram of waxy alkaoid) in a small glass or jar and slowly pour in a very small amount of naphtha into the extract, just a little bit, a few ml and then stir the extract into the solvent you have added until it will not longer dissolve any more, adding more naphtha as necessary to completely dissolve the extract but no more than is needed. You want to completely dissolve the extract into the fluid to the point where the naphtha is completely without any kind of cloud to it but not beyond that point. To be sure you do not over shoot keep adding only small amounts of naphtha and continue stirring the extract into it until you reach the point where it has all completely dissolved and do not add any more solvent or this process will not work out as well as it can. Once the naphtha has become saturated to its maximum amount of alkaloid to the point where it is no longer cloudy seal the container and put it in a very cold freezer. After a few minutes the naphtha will cloud up as the alkaloid starts to precipitate out of the solvent but should not be removed from the freezer until the fluid clears. The cold naphtha can be from clear to yellow colored but should have no amount of cloud to it or the alkaloid which can come out of the fluid has not precipitated out yet. Once the fluid has been chilled to a low enough temperature, and allowed enough time to settle the fluid will become completely translucent. At this point you can then pour the naphtha into another container (saving and evaporating it, reworking the same way) and let the glass dry for an hour or more so that you can scrape the purified alkaloid off the sides and bottom of the glass for collection. The naphtha you poured off can be evaporated back down and reworked the same way again but will likely be far darker or perhaps a bit more gummy due to the impurities left behind in it. Another way of purifying the extract is to take, for example, 1 gram of extract and place it in a small glass cup of some kind and slowly not to disturb the spice pour in, for example 50-100 ml of naphtha and water bath heat (the same as a regular canning food jar partially submerged in hot water) the solvent in the jar to about 130 degrees F., but not much hotter or the solvent will begin to hard boil. Once the naphtha is hot enough the extract will begin to melt and bubble to a little bit form a syrup like blob in the bottom of the container. Continue allowing the spice to melt and spread out in the bottom of the jar to form a film covering the entire bottom and lightly swirl the naphtha without touching the goo in the bottom for just a couple of minutes or so. Once most of the alkaloid has dispersed into the solvent and all which remains is a thin yellow fatty puddle in the bottom of the glass carefully pour the solvent off and into another container for evaporation (or freeze precipitation to further purify it if you did not use too much solvent). You might want to add more naphtha to the jar with the slime in the bottom and do it again until you have substantially reduced the amount of goo on the bottom without dissolving much of these fats into the naphtha but each subsequent fraction of solvent will have more of the fatty impurities in it. You do
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DMT Quicktek - Mimosa H. Root Bark Extraction by Vortex
- Thread starter Vortex
- Start date
So to complete this tek, maybe Vortex could at this about a wash at the end "Allow the crystals to completely dry out on the filter paper in the funnel. Premix a wash solution by mixing equal parts of Distilled Water and NON-SOAPY clear Ammonium Hydroxide(Ace Hardware Janitorial Strength Ammonia) into a pint container. Slowly pour 100ml of the wash solution over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them. Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry out. "
Separating the DCM from the muddy mix, humm.... I guess that could be a problem. Filtering is the only idea I have, first the most gross pieces with a moderate mesh screen and then the next with a finer mesh. Last maybe an even finer mesh or something else? I am not sure how well the DCM extraction may work out having never heard of anyone using this specific method with DCM as the solvent before but I have been curious how well it may or may not work and whether the root bark will be more or less efficienctly extract that way. One thing for certain, you would want to mix the base adjusted water into the root bark for longer before adding the DCM to the soup because it will displace the water. sorry for the trouble you are having. Maybe you should just pour some naphtha in and go ahead and extract it that way to get all you can out of the basified mix before pouring the DCM off. The DCM can stay in the bottom when you do this but needs to be separated out at some point to recover the DMT it has already absorbed. If nothing else, if you cannot cleanly separate the DCM from the root bark go ahead and separate it as best you can and then evaporate it along with all the crud which is in it and add it back to the basified aqueous extraction mix and re-extract it with naphtha.
And post the results.
From .5kg of MHRB that i had successfully made aya with before, using the DCM i got very little, ~.8g. I let the mush sit for 4 days until I could get Naphta. I then tried Naphtha and was able to squeeze out probably another .2g. I followed the tek exactly, I do not think the DCM is good for this tek at all. And it is missing the final step, first timers like me will not intuitively know that the stuff that dries on the plate at the end is not the final step. I ended up scraping off crystals from the plates and pouring into filter paper with the Janitorial Ammonia/Distilled water. Maybe a note somewhere that the tek is not meant as a standalone but as a different approach, and that other steps are omitted but still necessary..
I wish it could be Wiki'd but they will not allow this kind of thing on their site. After your report of having difficulty when using DCM I edited in that DCM is not a good solvent for this method due to being heavier than water. I did not expect anyone to try to use DCM with this method and only brought it up as one of the solvents the alkaloid was soluble in, not meaning to imply this specific tech would be better for DCM although I hear it is a better solvent. I can see the problem caused by that solvent due to sitting on the bottom of the container, being heavier than water it naturally pushes all of the basified H2O right out of the root bark where it needs to be. I learned something recently, that the MHRB which was used for the initial extraction with this tek had far higher alkaloid content due to being from Mexico which is far superior to the more common MHRB you can buy at cheap prices from Brazil. Because of this the earlier report of this method having much higher efficiency might not be correct. While I am confident it is just as good, if not slightly better than a regular A-B process as far as yield goes, I no longer believe it is necessarily better. Although, I do believe this tek is a better method for newbies, once it is edited more, as you suggested.... because, you can hardly screw up if you leave the root bark in the bowl the whole time, eventually you will find a way to get the spice out, if you keep working at it. Some times the extract will evaporate out as a syrup which can take a day or two to harden into crystalline structures, that could throw a newbie off some if they did not know what they are looking at. I will edit it in, if you see any sections which could be improved please cut and paste your edits to this thread and I will put them in.
Elf - a gram isnt horrible yield for 1/2 kilo especially considering the hit and miss quality of the barks out there. It took my friend a kilo before he got his first razor scrapings of yellow oily crystal. A pox on the houses of Quantum Tantra and Yoda. Vortex - good point about the DCM squeezing the water out. I'm just surprised that the DCM didn't extract the alks on its own. It wasn't entirely the Mexican barks that boosted your yield, my friend did side by side comparisons on the same bark and yielded 1/3 more using his adaptation of Soma's tek versus his version of Mars's tek.
That is good, glad to hear it. A friend of mine was thoroughly disappointed in some Brazilian MHRB which was found to only have about 1/3 the total yield expected due to his being unaware of the huge amount of difference between the lessor Brazilian MHRB and superior Mexican MHRB he had become accustomed to. He thought he had paid way too much for the Mexican root bark when it turns out the Brazilian root bark was the over priced one when considering yield. The root bark from Brazil may have been half the price of Mexican but the Mexican produced three times the yield.
I can shed some light on the issue of the proper DMT extraction ph. I did an extensive set of experiments with various ph levels until I determined that at exactly 13.4 the emulsions quickly dissipate. I used a calibrated ph meter which I personally calibrated before each run and posted the 13.4 value on several drug forums. Although it will not hurt to go higher (and with experimental TEKs I always do), I think it is a kind of waste of lye to go a whole lot higher. An easy way to remember how to get to 13.4 is to use 1% of the weight of the water, plus an equal weight of lye for any acid used. So for 2 liters of water, you should use at least 20 grams of lye plus enough to equal any acid (ascorbic?) used. Around 22 grams. So I suspect that 200 grams of lye per 2-liters of water is overkill. But since I never did this TEK, I really can't say for sure. An online calculator for easily determining what ph you are at can be found at: http://www.sensorex.com/support/education/pH_calculator.html Just select sodium hydroxide (lye) and enter the weight of the lye in grams and the volume of the water in liters. Click the "calculate" button below and you will know your ph. Be aware that this calculator assumes a neutral water starting point, which means that you have to add enough lye to neutralize any acid. For ascorbic acid, most people use 1gram/liter, so just add a couple of grams of extra lye for that and the calculation will be accurate. Alot easier than learning to determine ph using logarithmic math...
That is what Noman says too, that the amount of lye I had used was overkill but each time I increased the amount of lye there was a marked increase in yield on the next draw. As long as the pH is high enough I suppose it will be just fine, even if you overshoot. The full strength pH of pure NaOH is 14.0 anyway, so if you use six times more lye than needed when increasing the pH above 13.4 all the way up to the upper limit of 14, I can see how it would be a waste but I don't know if you could do that when dissolving the lye into a couple of literes of water with a pound of root bark in it, I mean, reach a pH of 14 when that is the pH of concentrated crystalline lye itself. I've seen NaOH for sale as a solution, or in other words, already dissolved into water and their pH is never more than 13.5 that I have seen for sale but I am not a chemist either. Although my own field requires a degree, chemistry is not my area so I must bow to others knowledge for most any of this kind of thing except where I have observed things for myself. Although I did have a chemist tell me that to create a pH of 13.5 with 1 liter of pH 7 water it would take about ~20 grams of NaOH but that is without anything else for the lye to react with, such as a pound of root bark which I believe is probably closer to neutral anyway so no big deal. I can tell you for sure though that when increasing from 75 grams of lye dissolved into a couple literes of water with 500 grams root bark to 150 grams of lye I saw a doubling of extracted yield right away, on the next solvent draw for the same amount of naphtha. Then, when doubling it again for the last draw a marked increase of yield from that pull. However, I was working with just broken root bark and not powdered, so there is a factor to consider there, including time.... more time in the basified solution for the draw too. When I say doubling of yield, I do not mean total yield, just that I was able to get twice as much alkaloid out of the aqueous mix on that particular draw for that fraction of the solvent evaporated out to see if the amount of draw had increased or not. When testing this I evaporated the solvent from each draw before moving forward and increasing the amount of NaOH dissolved into the water/mix of root bark. There is much to do to confirm these results and find the exact way to go about it with this method. My intent was to show a more fool proof way (do we really want it "fool" proof?) of extracting the root bark because it all remains in the bowl the entire time. You can hardly screw it up if you keep doubling the NaOH until you get strong yields, although, I admit, wasteful on NaOH I'd rather have someone use too much than to get no yield, as I did for the first three extractions I had performed due to being a complete noob to the process, not increasing the pH enough. Just as an experiment I used 4 liters of water with 750 grams of NaOH dissolved into it on 500 grams of root bark and it did not seem to harm anything at all and the yields was fine. Although, I found that when heating the basified mix of root bark and lye with lots of naphtha in it to 150 degrees F. (naphtha evaporating as I heated the mix, so I had to use a lot of extra solvent to compensate and put a lid on it between stirring) a whole lot of extra alkaloid came out of the root bark which I had previously thought was already exhausted from multiple naphtha pulls at a high pH for three days strait. However, that whole lot of extra alkaloid also had some things in it which were not in it before heating and the extract did not evaporate out to small dots of alkaloid, instead evaporated out into a sticky syrup which needed to be run through an A-B process to clean it up, but that pull was worth the effort, lots of extra yield from root bark which should have been exhausted by then. The naphtha took on a very bright piss yellow color when heating the high pH aqueous mix of root bark, so something extra sure came over when heating that much for an hour or so, stirring often. Although the basified aqueous mix was at 150 degrees F. which is far above the melting point of the alkaloid and above the vaporization point of DMT the solvent floating on top was not that hot due to constant evaporation, it remained 15-20 degrees F. cooler than the basified root bark mix. I am wondering if perhaps another way of doing this tek is to just go ahead and heat extract the batch of root bark in a couple of literes of water at a very high pH like 13.4+ to draw out everything you can get right away, maybe in just two or three pulls from the hot mix with its very warmed solvent and then after evaporation do an A-B on the oily alkaloid syrup right away. To me, seems like a whole lot less work than multiple extractions over and over to get every little bit of the yield. I am not saying this method might not have its own problems because I have not tried it to know for myself if it would clean up very easily with an acid to base defat to produce the yield I think it would, but someone ought to try it at least once to see how it works or not.
I suspect that if the rootbark was finely powdered, the extra lye would not be needed. That the only reason the yields improve with more lye used than the other TEKs use, is that it is needed to break down the fibers for the unground pieces of rootbark. I'll bet that if the yield vs lye experiments were redone with powdered rootbark, the yield would peak at the same level as most other TEKs (13.4)...
Thanks for all that info Mars. My friend did a quick test with 50g bark. His method had been to use 15ml water and 1.5g lye per gram of bark. This time he added 750ml water to the bark and mixed 75g lye in 300ml water and added 1/3 at a time, extracting with naptha after each addition. He extracted a bit over 1/4g (as best can be weighed on triple beam) split pretty much between the first and second pulls. The last pull only had a few stray crystals. In light of that, he's ammended his method to 15ml water and 1g lye per gram of bark. I like the heating idea. I've always thought that if anything should be added to this method, it's heat. That much hot naptha vapor is scary though.
[quote:c9bf5d881e="marsofold"]I suspect that if the rootbark was finely powdered, the extra lye would not be needed. That the only reason the yields improve with more lye used than the other TEKs use, is that it is needed to break down the fibers for the unground pieces of rootbark. I'll bet that if the yield vs lye experiments were redone with powdered rootbark, the yield would peak at the same level as most other TEKs (13.4)...[/quote:c9bf5d881e] That was my thought too, although I also saw an increase with extremely finely powdered root bark, though not as great. Noman, the heating of the basified solution will probably reduce the amount of lye needed, I would guess. It works and brings out loads more alkaloid at a cost, more impurities, far more... Still, I am starting to believe that heating a basified mix with root bark in it to 150 degrees F. or so with naphtha floating on top is one way to quickly get a much larger portion of the yield out, although impure. Regardless of the large amount of increased impurities my vote is to go ahead to process the root bark that way first and then clean it up by various methods second to reduce the amount of work overall while at the same time recieving more reward for your efforts. If the aqueous mix is warmed to 150 degrees F. the naphtha floating on top sure turns yellow fast and can be seen to have whisps of vapor here and there coming off the top (as the naphtha is warmed to within 15 or so degrees F. of the solution below it) so best to have a lid to cover it between stirrings so the naphtha condensates on it and drips back down into the heating container. A glass lid works nicely for this and can be found fairly easily for many different sized cooking pots. I do not think this kind of thing is too dangerous if you use a small electric hot plate and an over sized cooking pot which completely over shadows it by several inches all around. As long as the fluid level is kept to half of the pots full volume I don't think naphtha will be able to drip down the sides and onto the electric burner, especially with the kind of pot I used with an indented or recessed lip for the glass top to fit into, it just doesn't have a way to drip down the sides and onto the burner. Have a wet towl nearby, just in case.
I'm all for quick and dirty getting everything out of the bark right away and then cleaning up the product. A couple of recrystalizations is much less labor intensive that extracting a couple of liters of nasty basic fish stink solution over and over.
I'm still not sure about the heat and high pH extraction because there is lots of some kind of yellow compound I've never seen come over into the solvent before. Part of the yellow impurity is a sweet smelling flower scented fat which is easily removed through a regular A-B defat, the other part acts like an alkaloid because when doing an acid-base defat quite a bit of yellow still remains in the vinegar telling me that it is an alkaloid which has been converted to a salt because multiple washes with naphtha will not get it out, the solvent becoming quite clear and unable to touch it in the acid. Also, when the yellow vinegar is basified and re-extracted with naphtha it will then pull over into the solvent turning it yellow. It has a lot of the expected smell of the precious alkaloid but yet not quite the exact smell. Perhaps my thought that a heating pulled out lots of extra DMT was not correct, it may have pulled out a lot of extra something else. I will report on this mystery later, when solved.
That's very interesting about the flowery smell. My friend got a yellow orange (very pretty) flower smelling extract from phalaris once. This had been after four defats too, can't remember if they were with naptha or xylene. He has also noticed that the later pulls (especially when using quick teks) are noticably more yellow than the first. He let one sit for a week and it was B vitamin piss yellow. It freeze precips out yellow too, but recrystalization results in white crystal. He's never gotten the flower smell from MHRB. As for pulling that other alkaloid, why not try xylene? Dark DMT (whatever it is) is not soluable in naptha, but is in xylene.
I always wanted to try some phalaris to see how it extracts but do not have any growing here to try but not interested in it enough to go chasing after it. Here is the result for the 150-160 degree F. warmed basified mix pull using naphtha: If you heat evaporate the naphtha from a hot pull of the basified mix (both the root bark and naphtha together heated to 150 F.) you will get an orange almost red colored syrup which will take several days to crystallize, but if you fan evaporate the naphtha from the heated mix upon evaporation the remains will crystallize into a firmer but oily substance which also can take a day or two to firm up into a dry enough material to scrape out of the evaporation bowl but is certainly DMT. While I found that heating the basified root bark with naphtha mixed into it produced about 20% more yield above and beyond what had already been pulled out without heat after the root bark was thought to be completely exhausted, what I did pull out takes a lot more work to purify and definately requires an A-B defat. I tried and tried with both freeze precip and A-B to get all of the yellow out and I could not. I could get about a third of the bright piss yellow color out of the acified mix when using naphtha to defat but not a whole lot of it. Even freeze precip would not get all of the yellow out but did get some of it. Apparently, the high heat basified extraction pulls out lots of yellow which is very difficult to refine out of the extract if not nearly impossible through simple means. For a while I believed what these fellows were referring to as dark DMT might be a mix of yuremamine with DMT which I am sure you know acts as an MAOI without actually being one, but with all of the heat used if yuremamine is destroyed by it then Dark DMT or Jungle Spice, as a few have been referring to this dark orange DMT, is not that but probably a mix of DMT and some other things which are only pulled out of the root bark when processed with heat which somehow produces a stronger experience, if these reports are true. Although the experience has been reported to be stronger, it has never been reported to be better and often more on the negative side from what I have read. In the past I have never had an extract turn the extraction solvent a bright yellow or the crystalline alkaloid (upon evap.) bright orange before but I never used heat on the root bark before either, so this is new to me. If working with the root bark at room temperature I always had slightly yellow tinted alkaloid to pure white, never this bright orange stuff which is no doubt DMT when smelling it and looking at the small crystalline structures. Perhaps what ever is coloring this extract such a bright color is what they call Dark DMT or Jungle Spice and somehow increases the strength of effects of the DMT molecule when smoked. Noman, I have already used xylene as the initial defat to powdered root bark and pulled out some light yellow oily substance which I believe is yuremamine but I have no way of really knowing other than a bio test which I am not interested in doing. Are you saying yuremamine is an alkaloid? Do you know if it is really so delicate to be easily destroyed by heat as I read somewhere?
[quote:a50724ab21="Kija."] Someone try some,not enough reports on that stuff. [/quote:a50724ab21] I'd say it's your turn. 
What is the smell of these red crystals like? Vortex - I've posted all two sentences worth of what I know about yuremamine. The stuff that slapped my friend around was definitely a tryptamine of some kind. DMT fractal vision ya' know.
What is the smell of these red crystals like? Vortex - I've posted all two sentences worth of what I know about yuremamine. The stuff that slapped my friend around was definitely a tryptamine of some kind. DMT fractal vision ya' know.blacksheep
Rising Star
sorry if the answer is already in this thread, I read the tek and scanned the rest. Can this tek or ones like it be used with other plant sources, like acacia bark, or does this take advantage of the fact that mhrb is relativley fat free?
blacksheep
Rising Star
I think the reason the yield is higher using these methods as opposed to standard A/B reaction is this, but I really don't know my chemistry so well. But to those of you who do please comment... When a friend caused an A/b reaction in order to harvest crystals he found what has become common knowledge to be true, in that if the solution is not made basic enough it wont seperate propperly, or if it is made too acidic. He made an extract starting with a ph of 3.4 mhrb solution basified to 13.6 or somthing and yielded 200mg.+ on the first pull of fluffy white crystals stating out with 50mg. of root bark. Another extract was done using another 50g. of the same root bark only this time the solution after cooking was pH of 1.6 which is significantlly more acidic, so he way over basified to the point that the meter could not read the pH, than added more base and pulled the same out with ease. Later he did an extra 3 non-polar washes after a couple of days with the same "spent solution" because it still smelt so strongly of tryptamines and kept getting more amber goo, but by the 6th pull, an emulsion, (a weak emulsion) formed. Altogether (not counting goo)he yielded almost 1/2 a gram from 100g of mhrb on his first ever attempt at such a thing. He only did the extra non-polar pulls on the second batch so might have yielded more than 1/2 a gram had he not got rid of the first batch so fast, He's thinking when an acid is used that maybe what happens is that the base may break the bond between the valences of the acid and the alkaloid when the base and acid bond but that the some of the alkaloids when knocked free from the bond form a new bond in the swirl with more of the acid instead of converting to freebase, particularly if an excess of acid is used. as more of the free-base is removed the solution forms thicker emulsions, there is a possability that at this point if more base is added, more alkaloids could be pulled after three washes. And if more base is added the goo could be avoided and crystal yielded. He's been wondering if the amber goo is not fat but a bond of sodium-chloride on the dmt, that also pulls over some of the basic solution? Is this stupid or does it make any sense?