[quote:e28faf0086]PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES - DO NOT USE THIS PROCESS IF ILLEGAL WHERE YOU ARE. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. YOU ASSUME ALL RESPONSIBILITY LEGAL, SAFETY OR OTHERWISE FOR THE CORRECT OR INCORRECT APPLICATION OF THIS INFORMATION. [i:e28faf0086]This tech has a couple of new twists which I do not believe are being used by anyone else and those are: To defat the powdered root bark by pouring strait naphtha directly into the powder without water and second, to mix the extraction solvent into basified plant material without first cooking in acidic water and straining the root bark as is found in other techs. No reason to do so, this works great without going to the trouble and has been reported to produce very high yields. Although heat is not required in any step of this process, if warming the aqueous NaOH basified soup to much over 140 degrees F. the DMT alkaloid which has become a freebase can start to turn into a vapor causing it to be completely evaporated out of the mix. Because of this, if you want to heat the basified soup be sure that you do not let the soup get any warmer than 100-120 degrees F. to allow a fairly large margin. My advice is that one hundred degrees F. is plenty warm enough to help speed the process up if you want to do so but is not at all necessary.[/i:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086] DMT Quicktek for Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark Extraction by Vortex[/b:e28faf0086] [i:e28faf0086]The following four short paragraphs are the core of the extraction method which is very simple, the rest is just extra information for those who might be new to extractions. This extraction method can extract the majority of the alkaliod from Mimosa hostilis root bark in less than 4 hours from beginning to end if you have quantity of powdered root bark ready for extraction and speed the evaporation of the extraction solvent through the aid of a fan with the solvent in a large wide flat glass pan. Larger extractions of over 250 grams may take longer due to the time it takes to evaporate a larger volume of solvent.[/i:e28faf0086] Dimethyltryptamine AKA N,N-DMT or DMT which is contained in powdered Mimosa hostilis root bark can be directly extracted with naphtha by adding the powder and solvent together into an amount of basified water at a pH of 13.5 which is made by dissolving a base chemical such as NaOH/sodium hydroxide into water. Basified water which will have a high enough pH to convert the DMT in the root bark powder to a freebase for absorption by naphtha can be prepared by dissolving 1 measured tablespoon of pure NaOH per 150 ml of water intended, preparing enough water so that you have close to a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder (when wet) to 3/4 basified water. When the base adjusted water is mixed together with the root bark this will raise the pH to close to 13.5 which is the ideal extraction pH. The sequence the above is done in is important, be sure to make the basified water ahead of time, if the NaOH causes the water to significantly heat due to the chemical reaction let it cool to under 120 degrees F. and then mix the powdered root bark into the water for five minutes before adding naphtha. Although this extraction can be done with basified water at room temperature, if the water is still warm from the reaction of having NaOH added this will only help but do not add the root bark powder if over 120 degrees F. Use 100 or more ml (as much as you want) of room temperature naphtha per 250 grams of dry weight root bark being extracted and mix the solvent into the aqueous soup by hand using a non-reactive utensil such as stainless steel for 30 minutes at a time at room temperature to absorb the DMT alkaloid, extracting the watery mix with naphtha the same way at least three or more times over with fresh solvent each time to absorb and pull out the majority of the alkaloid in under two hours. Separate and save the naphtha from the basified mix each time. When finished extracting the root bark evaporate the DMT containing fractions of clear to slightly yellow solvent together to net fairly pure DMT in just a few hours of work. When done with this quick extraction method and prior to evaporating the solvent you have already collected, pour more clean solvent into the soup, mix for a few minutes, tightly cover to prevent evaporation of the solvent and then set aside in a dark place for a long term soaking of a few days to get the last of the alkaloid out of the root bark. If possible, mash and stir the root bark which will have settled to the bottom of the container at least once a day, twice or more a day is better. A stainless steel potato masher works great for this, do not let the basified solution get on your skin. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- [b:e28faf0086]Extraction Notes:[/b:e28faf0086] [b:e28faf0086]Preparing Root Bark for Extraction[/b:e28faf0086] The root bark can be extracted whole without powdering if you are willing to wait for the lye/NaOH to soften and break the root bark down into a mush which will extract just as efficiently as powdered root bark but will take a few days to completely soften enough to do so. Although this is true to reduce the amount of time required to extract this plant material it is best to powder the root bark as finely as you can through simple means. This can be done through multiple steps to break the bark down until you have a powder near the consistency of flour. First, strip and cut the bark into fine pieces with pliers or cutting dikes, tin snip shears etc., then place all of the bark in a large enough steel can so that when filled with all of the root bark it is no more than about 1/10 full (coffee cans work great, holding it between your feet) and use a five foot long inch and half or larger OD thick walled schedule 40 or heavier steel pipe to smash the pieces into a powder as you stand above the can and pound the bark into smaller and smaller pieces which will eventually become a powder mixed with harder pieces if you work it long enough. This can only be done if the can is sitting on a flat cement slab, do not try this with the can sitting on a wooden floor, not hard enough. Once you have thoroughly pulverized the root bark as best you can with a pipe you can then further powder the material or break down the pieces which remain through the use of a small high RPM coffee grinder, the top loading kind which have a stainless steel blade in the top which turns at an extremely high speed. These can be purchased from many large stores which sell kitchen items for less than twenty dollars but are not designed for a heavy work load. Because of this you should wait at least a minute between each grind or you might burn the internal thermal fuse out which is not designed to be replaced, but can be done so by removing it which of course defeats this safety feature to prevent fire if an overload occurs. [b:e28faf0086]Defatting without A-B[/b:e28faf0086] Although the extract from Mimosa hostilis root bark is usually pure enough using the above process as is, if desiring a higher purity the small amounts of fat which are in this plants root bark can be removed by a very simple step without the need to acidify and mix with water as is commonly done using what is called an Acid-Base Extraction. This can be done by adding a solvent such as naphtha directly to the dried root bark powder and stirring for just a few minutes and then once the solvent has absorbed the fats, which takes less than ten minutes, pouring the mix through a paper or cloth filter to collect the fine particles of powdered root bark suspended in the solvent and save the wet powder, discarding the solvent. The wet or dried powder can then be added to a mix of water and NaOH to raise the pH of the water to above 13 where the DMT salts contained in the powder are converted to an alkaloid or base which can then be readily extracted using a solvent such as naphtha to absorb it. This method will work to defat the root bark using the same solvent which extracts the alkaloid because the DMT contained in the dried root bark is in the form of a salt which cannot be absorbed by the solvent until a base is added with water to the powder which releases it for absorption by solvent. Because of this when doing a strait solvent defat you are in effect using the acid to base or A-B defatting process but without having to add an acid to convert the DMT into a salt because DMT contained in dried root bark already exists in the form of a salt so why use a mix of water an acid to defat the material when mixing the powder into strait solvent does the job so well? Although Mimosa hostilis root bark is already fairly fat free as is and nearly free of fats after performing a simple strait defat of the powder with room temperature solvent, for an extreme defat boil the root bark powder in hot naphtha or any solvent which will absorb plant fats such as xylene etc. and cycle several times, pouring off the old and adding fresh solvent. Some kind of paper or cloth filter should be used to strain the fine particles of root bark powder floating in the solvent each time you do so or you will loose that portion of the root bark to the solvent wash. These particles can be so fine that they can take many hours to settle to the bottom of the container. [b:e28faf0086]Proper Extraction Utensils and Equipment:[/b:e28faf0086] When extracting root bark do not use plastic containers or utensils which might react with either the solvent or the base chemical. Stainless steel, glass or ceramic containers and stirring utensils are safe with these chemicals. Always wear safety goggles and rubber gloves and observe all standard safe practices when working with chemicals and solvents. [b:e28faf0086]Warning, NaOH Sodium Hydroxide is Dangerous:[/b:e28faf0086] When working with NaOH/sodium hydroxide this is an extremely dangerous solution you are making. It can cause serious burns and eye damage; wear gloves and goggles, OK? Also, you will find that this compound generates a LOT of heat when it gets wet - so much so that your solution can boil over, spraying NaOH everywhere. Because of this only add and stir small amounts of NaOH base into the water a little at a time to minimize the amount of exothermic heat and bubbling. NEVER add water to a base/NaOH! Again, the powdered base should only be added incrementally and slowly dissolved into a relatively large amount of water, not the other way around. [b:e28faf0086]pH - The Basics[/b:e28faf0086] If a substance has one acid component for each base component, it is said to be neutral and has a pH value of 7. Greater than 7 is less acid, more base, and less than 7 is more acid and less base. Each unit is 10 times the previous, i.e., a pH of 9 is 10 times more base than 8, a pH of 5 is 10 times more acid than 6. Some examples of more acid like things are vinegar, orange juice, and the liquid in your car battery that makes holes in your clothes. Bases include lye, Tums, and brushing your teeth with baking soda. When acid like substances are mixed with base like substances, they react with each other producing some by-products and leaving the resulting solution with a pH somewhere between the two original values. The further apart the pH of the two substances, the more energy is released in the reaction. Put a teaspoon of baking soda in a half glass of vinegar and see what happens. pH Substance Base and Acid Examples: 13.0-14.0 Sodium Hydroxide - (NaOH, lye) 13.0-14.0 Potassium Hydroxide (KOH, lye; Caustic potash) 12.4 Lime - (Calcium Hydroxide) 11.0 Ammonia 10.5 Milk of Magnesia 8.3 Baking Soda 7.4 Human Blood 7.0 Pure Water - Neutral 6.6 Milk 4.5 Tomatoes 4.0 Wine & Beer 3.0 Apples 2.2 Vinegar - (undiluted) 2.0 Lemon Juice 1.0 Battery Acid 0 Hydrochloric Acid Go to Not Found for a list of common bases and pH [b:e28faf0086]pH Meter or Papers Are Not Required[/b:e28faf0086] If you do not have access to a pH meter or papers to confirm how base the solution is the root bark can be basified to a pH of approximately ~13 by dissolving 1 tablespoon of NaOH per 150 ml of water used to basify the root bark regardless of the quantity of water used but should be added to and thoroughly dissolved into the water prior to mixing into the root bark powder. If a bubbly emulsion forms when stirring the mix together with naphtha add more water with the NaOH base dissolved into it and stir again. Until the pH is close to 13 or more emulsions will form very easily when mixing the naphtha into the MHRB soup, after the pH is raised to close to the ideal pH of approx. 13.5 you cannot easily produce an emulsion by swift stirring but some amount will form and if too much allow the solution to sit for a few hours before the solvent is separated out from the watery mix for eventual evaporation. The emulsion should break up or subside on its own after setting still long enough bit if it will not settle out add more NaOH. The pH of a solution can be calculated. For example, if 1 mole of sodium hydroxide (40 g) is dissolved in 1 litre of water, the concentration of hydroxide ions becomes [OH−] = 1 mol/l. Therefore [H+] = 10−14 mol/l, and pH = −log 10−14 = 14. Depending upon the pH of the water the NaOH is being dissolved into the pH can be either lower or higher than the above. As a very gross estimate, half the amount of NaOH, or 20 grams, will produce a pH close to 13.5 in water. When this pH adjusted or basified water is added to root bark the NaOH will react with the powder and lower the pH a bit. As a rough estimate, depending upon whether you are using granulized NaOH or crystals, pellets etc. three measured tablespoons should weigh close to 40 grams and should be base enough to basify 1 litre of water to close to a pH of 14 which will be lowered closer to 13 when mixing root bark powder into it. Since the ideal extraction pH of Mimosa hostilis root bark is closer to 13.5 this tech calls to have a higher ratio of NaOH to water which is approx. 1 tablespoon or 13-15 grams (depending upon whether a powder, crystals or pellets) of NaOH per 150 ml of water which should raise the pH closer to 13.5 when mixed at a ratio of 1/4 root bark powder to 3/4 basified water. While I have recommended the above ratio of water to root bark powder at 1/4 powder to 3/4 water other teks specify 10 ml of water per gram of powdered rootbark which is about 1.3 US gallons per 500 grams of root bark which is different than the amount I have recommended in this tech. Mix your root bark and basified water to the consistency you want, I do not believe anything in this process requires a high degree of exactness whether that be the amount of root bark powder to water, NaOH to water, amount of naphtha stirred in each time and so on. The fact is small to somewhat moderate departures from what I have outlined in this tech will not make a large amout of difference, especially at the high pH required to extract the root bark. For example; if you use plus or minus 20% NaOH the pH of the extraction will not be affected much, 20 percent more or less water either but if both the both the amount of water and NaOH are radically different such as far more water and far less NaOH, or far less water and far more NaOH, far less powder and far more base adjusted water etc., those departures from the outlined amounts would likely effect the required time and number of extractions performed to extract the majority of the alkaloid out of the mix but as long as the pH is still close to 13 or more the extraction will still probably provide a reasonable amount of yield. All of this becomes moot if you also perform a long term extraction (with extra stirring every day) after the short quick multiple extractions are first completed which will make up for the differences. The only thing I believe which can probably be done wrong to significantly alter the amount of yield or cause the extraction to possibly fail is if you use far more powder and far less basified water than outlined causing the powder to become only a paste, regardless of having a high pH. Now that could cause a problem with your extraction, but to tell you the truth I have not tried to know and for all I know that might produce even better results and at far less work, give it a try if you feel so inclined. This tech is based on other peoples tried and true work, not my own knowledge about chemistry which is very little. Sure, I have put a couple of new ideas into practice with this tech which I do not think have been put into a public tech before but they have probably been used by someone somewhere sometime in the past with MHRB. Who knows for sure what works best until you try, some of the best things people have come up with were from the untrained and uneducated who did not know better than to try them, ignored by the current experts who thought they would not work. Experiment, find your own best ways of doing things, this tech is just one way of many which will work. Regardless of the figures in the above paragraph to determine the amount of NaOH needed to bring the aqueous mix of root bark and water up to a pH of ~13.5 (which was based upon an earlier tech by Soma) this amount of NaOH might be more than is really required. An individual in the entheogen community has been working to with MHRB to determine the real world minimum amount of sodium hydroxide needed to efficiently extract powdered MHRB, believing that an efficient extraction can be achieved with as little as one fifth to one tenth the amount of NaOH to produce a pH close to ~13 which should be high enough for the extraction. If his tests prove this out then this tech will be later modified to specify a smaller amount of NaOH for extractions without the need to measure pH. While the higher pH of 13.5 (~five times more NaOH than at 13.0) will work just fine as far as extracting the alkaloid and reduce the amount of potential emulsion formed by stirring, reducing the amount of base dissolved into the water will make the extraction a little safer to work with but still requiring googles and rubber gloves. [b:e28faf0086]The Most Common Causes of Extraction Failures[/b:e28faf0086] Too low of a pH is the most common reason for an extraction failure due to leaving most, if not all of the alkaloid behind if you do not achieve a high enough pH. Although an amount of the total alkaloid contained in the root bark can be extracted from a basified solution at a pH of 9 to 10 at that low of a pH relatively little of the DMT will be released as a freebase causing the extraction yield to be much smaller than normal including the added trouble caused by large amounts of emulsions which will form in the extraction solvent at that low of a pH causing great difficulity in separating the solvent from the aqueous portion of the mix. Although I cannot disagree it is certainly best to have a pH meter available or pH papers which will give a clear indication of the upper end of the pH scale but most papers cannot show whether the pH is really at the ideal extraction pH. Because of this problem someone came up with a great method which does not require reading the pH and that is to add a measured about of NoAH to a specific amount of MHRB, as determined by experience. The recommended minimum amount of NaOH as specified in Somas tek is 1 teaspoon per 50 ml of water or roughly 3 tablespoons per 300 ml of water no matter how much root bark is being extracted by only using as much water as is necessary to keep the aqueous mix a watery slurry. You do NOTt want a thick mix anywhere from the consistency of hot caramel to pancake batter which are far too thick to work out very well. It is best to have the mix a little on the thin side like chicken soup than using so little water that it produces a thick mix, once all of the root bark is stirred up into the basified water. A great last measure which can be performed to be sure you have raised the pH high enough: After you have extracted everything you think you can out of your root bark double the amount of NaOH/lye mixed into the root bark and try extracting it again to see if more alkaloid comes out of the mix. This might seem like over kill and way too much lye but I have found that you can use as much as lye as two thirds the weight of the root bark being extracted. If extracting 500 grams of root bark 300 grams of lye/NaOH is not too much when dissolved into 3 liters of water and has worked out very well for me when I have increased the NaOH that much for the final couple of extractions netting an unexpected bonus of alkaloid. Due to the recent difficulty of finding pure NaOH crystals on the store shelf in the form of a drain opener some individuals have reported other bases such as KOH or potassium hydroxide can be used in place of NaOH which may be true, I do not see why not but I do not know of anyone who has reported to have successfully used that kind of base. Red Devil Lye used to be the most common source for easy to find off the shelf NaOH in the past but due to its wide spread use to manufacture illicit drugs has been voluntarily removed from the market by the manufacturer. Although if hard pressed, NaOH can be made from simple table salt through electrolysis with plus and minus electrodes with water unless absolutely necessary to go to that kind of trouble it is obviously far easier to just purchase sodium hydroxide online through one of the auction web sites which is being sold for candle making, baking (food grade) and biodiesel projects than to make your own. Caution: When adding NaOH to water to make a basified solution the chemical reaction will produce near boiling hot water which can boil over or spirt out of the container. As a safety margine do not combine extremely hot basified water to the root bark powder or vice versa if the temperature is over 120 degrees F. which if only 20 degrees hotter can possibly cause vaporization of the freebase alkaloid released into the solution to evaporate out of the mix and into the air reducing the total potential yield. [b:e28faf0086]Choice of Solvent:[/b:e28faf0086] Many solvents can be used to extract DMT from plant materials, dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride, DCM) is good one but difficult to acquire at high purity without other solvents mixed into it without special ordering from a chemical supply house. If you do use DCM this solvent is heavier than water and instead of floating on top of the aqueous mix will go to the bottom and may cause a problem due to the basified water being pushed out of the root bark and difficult to separate from this solvent later. Naphtha seems to be the most common solvent for extracting DMT from plant materials in use right now which can be obtained from several sources. What kind of naphtha is the best? I do not have an answer for this one but I can tell you what some individuals are using. VM&P naphtha is one source people have been using which is usually fairly clean, others use Ronsonol lighter fluid which is also naphtha. There is another solvent which can be used instead of naphtha and that is hexane which has been reported to be superior to naphtha for extracting DMT, although most naphtha contains an amount of hexanes too. Hexane can be purchased from art supply stores under the brand name of Bestine which is used as a rubber cement thinner. No matter what solvent you use you should check it for residuals by evaporating a portion of it in a clean bowl to see if any kind of oily contaminate remains. The more solvent you use to absorb the alkaloid out of the basified root bark the easier it will be to separate from the aqueous mix each time, leaving some behind which will have its contents diluted into fresh solvent on the second, third or last long term extraction if you choose to do so. While 100 ml per extraction of 250 grams of root bark powder when done three times or more over may be far more than is required for the amount of alkaloid extracted, on a solubility basis, more solvent makes separation much easier each time if any amount of emulsion is present. Although in my opinion using more solvent is better in that respect, more will obviously increase the total amount of evaporation time required to net the alkaloid. [b:e28faf0086]Mixing Naphtha and Trouble with Emulsions:[/b:e28faf0086] Naphtha has a lower specific gravity than water and will float on top of the aqueous mix of root bark powder, once stirring has stopped. Just stir the naphtha into the mix from a slow to moderate rate to reduce the amount of bubbly emulsion which might form. The problem with having an emulsion is that when it comes time to separate out the solvent from the solution of basified water the more bubbles which form in the solvent the less solvent you can separate out from the aqueous portion of the mix causing some of the alkaloid contained in the emulsion which is a mix of both solvent and water to be left behind. If the pH of the base adjusted water and root bark powder is not high enough mixing too fast will cause an emulsion to form which will not break down on its own even if waiting days for it to subside. At the proper pH of ~13.5 emulsions are not easily formed even through fast stirring which will last more than a few minutes after the stirring has stopped. However, a fairly slow to moderate speed stir of the naphtha into the aqueous mix is all you need to do, just fast enough to make sure the root bark powder is not allowed to settle to the bottom of the mixing container while stirring the naphtha into the solution. [b:e28faf0086]Separating the Solvent From The Aqueous Mix[/b:e28faf0086] The best tool for this is a separatory funnel which is simply a glass container with a valve on the bottom which will allow the heavier aqueous solution to be poured off of the naphtha floating on top simply by opening the valve. Some individuals use plastic baggies for this purpose by cutting one of the bottom corners out of the bag so that the heavier watery half can be drained off and pinching the bag off with their fingers just as the last of it goes out with the lighter naphtha remaining in the bag which is then drained into another container for evaporation. I do not like the idea of mixing chemicals and solvents in sandwich bags due to possible contamination and refuse to use that method unless I could find some kind of bag I know for sure will not be leached by chemicals or solvents. This particular extraction process makes using either a separatory funnel or a baggie more difficult for separating the solvent from the mix because the heavy and muddy root bark powder is left in the extraction container which would clog up either of these. If you do use a separatory funnel or homemade device to drain the aqueous solution off of the naphtha from the bottom I would wait for the root bark powder to completely settle to the bottom of the mixing container and then pour the basified water and naphtha off the top into another container but chances are unless you wait many hours you will still get enough of the root bark powder to clog a separatory funnel. Instead of using a separatory funnel I have found it easier to just use more solvent than I need for each of the multiple extractions done to a single batch of root bark and carefully pouring the solvent in the mixing container off the top and into a large measuring cup allowing some of the watery mix to go out with it. Then I can carefully pour the naphtha in the measuring cup off of the dark aqueous solution in the bottom and add it back once the naphtha has been separated from it. [b:e28faf0086]Evaporating Solvent[/b:e28faf0086] Evaporating naphtha can take a very long time if placed in a deep bowl or container. To speed things up use a broad flat glass dish to increase the surface area of the solvent to air as much as possible and place a fan nearby to blow across the top of the fluid to speed evaporation. Never do this in an enclosed room and always have sufficient ventilation, especially if using a fan with their sparky internal commutator brushes. [b:e28faf0086]Purifying the extract[/b:e28faf0086] Although many report that the extract from this process can be used as is others have found that purifying the alkaloid is a must do for them. This can be accomplished by running the extract solids through a full acid to base defat or by a couple of other ways. The freeze-precip method works fairly well. This is done by dissolving a gram of extract into a small amount of naphtha and placing it in a freezer for a few hours so that the fluid will chill to near zero degrees F. causing the solubility of the naphtha to be reduced so far that it will not hold very much of the alkaloid which causes it to deposit on the sides of the container allowing the naphtha to be poured off (saved, evaporated and worked again) to net nearly white colored DMT which is scraped off the sides of the glass. This method will NOT work if you have too little alkaloid per quanity of naphtha vise versa, too much naphtha for the amount of alkaloid dissolved into it. The best way to do this is to prepare some warmed 100-120 degree naphtha and then place your extract (i.e. 1 gram of waxy alkaoid) in a small glass or jar and slowly pour in a very small amount of naphtha into the extract, just a little bit, a few ml and then stir the extract into the solvent you have added until it will not longer dissolve any more, adding more naphtha as necessary to completely dissolve the extract but no more than is needed. You want to completely dissolve the extract into the fluid to the point where the naphtha is completely without any kind of cloud to it but not beyond that point. To be sure you do not over shoot keep adding only small amounts of naphtha and continue stirring the extract into it until you reach the point where it has all completely dissolved and do not add any more solvent or this process will not work out as well as it can. Once the naphtha has become saturated to its maximum amount of alkaloid to the point where it is no longer cloudy seal the container and put it in a very cold freezer. After a few minutes the naphtha will cloud up as the alkaloid starts to precipitate out of the solvent but should not be removed from the freezer until the fluid clears. The cold naphtha can be from clear to yellow colored but should have no amount of cloud to it or the alkaloid which can come out of the fluid has not precipitated out yet. Once the fluid has been chilled to a low enough temperature, and allowed enough time to settle the fluid will become completely translucent. At this point you can then pour the naphtha into another container (saving and evaporating it, reworking the same way) and let the glass dry for an hour or more so that you can scrape the purified alkaloid off the sides and bottom of the glass for collection. The naphtha you poured off can be evaporated back down and reworked the same way again but will likely be far darker or perhaps a bit more gummy due to the impurities left behind in it. Another way of purifying the extract is to take, for example, 1 gram of extract and place it in a small glass cup of some kind and slowly not to disturb the spice pour in, for example 50-100 ml of naphtha and water bath heat (the same as a regular canning food jar partially submerged in hot water) the solvent in the jar to about 130 degrees F., but not much hotter or the solvent will begin to hard boil. Once the naphtha is hot enough the extract will begin to melt and bubble to a little bit form a syrup like blob in the bottom of the container. Continue allowing the spice to melt and spread out in the bottom of the jar to form a film covering the entire bottom and lightly swirl the naphtha without touching the goo in the bottom for just a couple of minutes or so. Once most of the alkaloid has dispersed into the solvent and all which remains is a thin yellow fatty puddle in the bottom of the glass carefully pour the solvent off and into another container for evaporation (or freeze precipitation to further purify it if you did not use too much solvent). You might want to add more naphtha to the jar with the slime in the bottom and do it again until you have substantially reduced the amount of goo on the bottom without dissolving much of these fats into the naphtha but each subsequent fraction of solvent will have more of the fatty impurities in it. You do
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DMT Quicktek - Mimosa H. Root Bark Extraction by Vortex
- Thread starter Vortex
- Start date
hey im from australia an i was wondering if i could use acacia madenii bark instead of mhrb it apparently contains a slightly larger amount of tryptamines but i am new to extraction side of things but i love dmt so much, that i wanna make my own. Sam --------------------------- my best friend Dimitri
[quote:a2359df761="blacksheep"]sorry if the answer is already in this thread, I read the tek and scanned the rest. Can this tek or ones like it be used with other plant sources, like acacia bark, or does this take advantage of the fact that mhrb is relativley fat free?[/quote:a2359df761] If you do not heat the root bark you can probably get away without the defat but if you do heat it I'd definately do the defat. Only small amounts of fat are pulled over at room temperature but if the basified mix is heated you will get loads of fatty impurities. At one time I said that room temperature extractions were the way to go, and they are.... from a purity stand point because the alkaloid is fairly low fat and pure enough to use as is.... usually, but the yields will be much higher if you heat the root bark in the basified mix. The extract obtained after evaporating the extraction solvent from a heated mix will tend to be more like a syrup and may take days to crystallize. Because of this the syrup needs to be cleaned up, an A-B process (acid-base) defat is one of the best ways to do so but there are a couple of other ways. One is to do the freeze precipitation deal, limiting the amount of naphtha used to dissolve all of the extract into to a minimum or your yields will suffer. Also, heating the extract in a small amount of naphtha will cause the alkaloid to dissolve into the solvent leaving a red or yellow goo in the bottom of the glass which you leave behind. So, those will help alot too but I'd do the refinement in this order (this does not show the defat of the root bark powder without acid or water which can be done first, before basification): 1. A-B defat 2. Freeze precipitation 3. Heat purification Then just evaporate all of the solvent and your extract will be much cleaner. Do steps two and three a couple or more times over and you will have an extremely pure extract but the yield will suffer from the extra amount of refinement. There are other things people do to make their extract cleaner but I am not up to speed on those methods . I think the A-B defat is easier to do after you finish the initial extraction of the root bark using the strait to base extraction first and then followed up by the normal A-B extraction. However, you can defat powdered root bark first simply by pouring the powder into xylene or naphtha and stirring it into the solvent for a few minutes, pouring the solvent off of the root bark and then adding more solvent and doing this three times but you will need to paper filter the solvent to catch the finer particles of root bark because they will float in the solvent for days.. This dry defat (without water), as explained above, will remove most of the fats which would show up when doing a normal room temperature extraction which many people say is pure enough as is without a defat, but if you heat the basified mix of root bark you will still probably pull over lots of fats, especially if you extract the mix several times over as you should, to get the builk of the alkaloid out. An extract which has had all of the fats removed from it will be so pure it will be a very fluffy powder which does not stick to the sides of a little plastic zip lock bag. It will still be wax like if you crumble it through you fingers but not nearly as waxy or tacky as extract which has not been completely cleaned up. Most people do not go to that kind of trouble to make their extract that fat free but I thought I'd mention it so that you can know what the material looks and acts like when it is extremely pure without fats. The more standard extraction methods do the defat first using the A to B method but I believe the yields are higher if you start out extracting the root bark with the strait to base process and then, once you have all of your yield, start cleaning it up last. The strait to base process works with acacia bark too, I've seen someone post it once.
Here's something I never see posted in any of the teks... Acetone is an excellent solvent for washing alkaloid residues off of your evaporation container. Once all of the thicker films are scraped off it can be a real job to get the thinner films off, instead of doing that just use a few ml of acetone and dissolve these thin alkaloid films. Once you have dissolved them into the acetone then pour it all into a small glass bowl for evaporation making it much easier to capture what might have been lost before. As an extraction solvent acetone doesn't work very well because it mixes with water and will not form its own layer making separation impossible but these alkaloids are hyper soluble to acetone far beyond what naphtha is capable of. One problem with acetone is that when mixed into a strong base it produces other chemicals due to incompatabilities with the base but wow does it release the alkaloid in a hurry.
twinkletoes
Arcturiannia
[quote="Kija."xylene=smelly[/quote] yes, very smelly... and doesn't like to evaporate. it's a wonder that anyone manages to work with that stuff!
I wish someone would elaborate on that. Extract with toluene and wash that with naptha? One wonders if one could start extracting MHRB with a wide spectrum solvent and then squeeze a few different alkaloids out using different solvents and temperatures. That dark experience has really made one wonder just what in hell is in there.
Critical Switch, the original discoverer of the "red alkaloid" in Mimosa Hostilis, used evaporated xylene in his TEK to boost his DMT yield 15%-20% and ending up with red crystals from which he leached out the DMT using naptha. Toluene is virtually equivalent to xylene and smells much less.
A question.....after doing the "lazy man's extraction" if someone ended up with a yellow oily end product and wanted to clean it up, what are the specifics for an "A-B" defat when working with the (post extraction) yellow oil/waxy product? Thanks. By the way....you all are great!!!!!!
We already know that. 
I would recommend you try a recrystalization before an A/B. You could use either of the methods I posted on the recrystalization thread keeping in mind that it's going to take a couple of passes. If it doesn't work (it will) you can still do an A/B, just evap all your solvents again and nothing is lost.
I would recommend you try a recrystalization before an A/B. You could use either of the methods I posted on the recrystalization thread keeping in mind that it's going to take a couple of passes. If it doesn't work (it will) you can still do an A/B, just evap all your solvents again and nothing is lost.I agree with Noman, You can just put the extract in a small glass custard dish of some kind, pour in some room temperature naphtha and stir it into the extract for a few minutes. After a while, the extract in the bottom will look more like fatty stuff and more than half of its original volume will have dissolved into the naphtha. At that point pour the naphtha into another small glass dish and evaporate it. You will find that the extract will be far purer, but I would not throw out the fatty stuff, it still has lots of the alkaloid in it. Try the same thing over with the impure remains you left behind from the first time and evaporate separately, it won't be as clean as the first try, but will still yield lots of alkaloid a second and third time over, maybe more.
[quote:114dbf48d9="cerfolio"]A question.....after doing the "lazy man's extraction" if someone ended up with a yellow oily end product and wanted to clean it up, what are the specifics for an "A-B" defat when working with the (post extraction) yellow oil/waxy product? Thanks. By the way....you all are great!!!!!![/quote:114dbf48d9] swim also ended up with a yellow oil from the lazy mans tek it was just added t sum herb and smoked with no ill effect.
blacksheep
Rising Star
A freind says that smoking the goo through glass tube worked fine, after a few hits he said clear crystals formed along thee inside of the neck of the vaporizer to which he ran warm iso alch, & evaporated the run off wich yielded clear crystals. Goo could probably be placed in a gutted and cleaned light bulb, or glass tube, vaporized at a low heat , and the clear crystals collected in a solvent, simple distillation concept.
please allow me to smoke this roach and propose what i call the golden ratio tek. i'm giving this tek away cause i love you. swim had good luck with vortex tek in a 40-ounce bottle, but encountered bad emulsions on a larger scale in a bucket when mixing the naptha in with a spoon. he arrived at the following solution- place 800g powdered MHRB in a clean one gallon naptha can. mix 400g NaOH into 2000ml cold water. wait 10 minutes for water to cool slightly. add NaOH solution to can. turn can upside down and shake hard for a few minutes until homogenous. the mixture should be thin enough to mix evenly but thick enough not to pour easily. add 1000ml distilled naptha. turn the can end over end for 50 full revolutions. you should hear sloshing but not too much. let can sit on a waterbath at maybe 60C for 30 minutes. pour off the naptha, it should be 800 or 850ml. place an equivalent amount of naptha in the can and repeat extraction 3 more times. dry the naptha over oven-baked MgSO4. place the approximately four quarts of naptha in jars in the freezer. precipitated yield of yellow dmt has ranged from 3.8 to 9.2 grams (yes, the 9.2 was some wicked good rootbark). quality is comparable to that produced by past acid/base with xylene defatting and everything. apparently the naptha still holds .75-1.0g dmt/quart while cold. you can recover this when you recycle your naptha; just concentrate it 10:1 then chill the concentrate. recrystallize until unsane. repeat as needed. praise jumbah. golden ratio tek can be performed with no special equipment, although you will probably want to make some sort of still for cleaning/recycling naptha. swim uses a long copper tube coiled downwards in a 5 gallon bucket as a condensor. the exit hole is sealed with boating sealant. swim can distill 2 or 3 gallons of naptha before changing the cooling water. his boiling flask has a continuous addition setup and magnetic stirring, but there are many possibilites for the frugal. the simplest is to solder the copper tube into the lid of a canning jar using acid-core solder and a little propane torch. the jar is then placed on top of a washcloth in a water or oil bath in a pot on the stove. little pieces of broken ceramic are placed in the jar to facilitate even boiling. aum. AVOID THE WINEAHUASCA
Hey DMTrip, happy to be of service! [i:0e3179dbf1]always[/i:0e3179dbf1] happy when my work gets used! 
Did you see my pdf of Noman's tek? http://www.dmt-nexus.me/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf (there are still some typos in it that I'm sorting out with Noman, so keep a look out for a new booklet version soon....) -z
Did you see my pdf of Noman's tek? http://www.dmt-nexus.me/doc/nomans_dmt_extraction_tek.pdf (there are still some typos in it that I'm sorting out with Noman, so keep a look out for a new booklet version soon....) -zHello , 1:- I`d like to thank DMTripper for giving me this forum adress . THANKS i realy needed this , you have helped me very mutch .. I read all the teks and didnt find anything new , that i didnt know . Some of them contradict each other . I think they need condensing into one and then be called simply "DMT extraction tek" or "DMT Nexus tek" or "Our DMT TEK" as non of the work here is original . Sorry , i dont want to insult any one , i`m just painfully honest sometimes . 2:- I´m realy pleased to find people who are actualy doing it and not just talking about it like on the other web sites that i have visited. 3:- Takeing the bark or root bark of trees KILLS them . Acacia , and i think mimosa , have enough dead wood on them to satisfy anyone but a greedy comercial producer , all you have to do is look around underneath them and/or shake them a bit and enough dead wood and/or leaves fall off . Acacia maidenii grows like a rocket as long as the temperature does not fall below 10c and can allso be grown indoors in a big pot everywhere . Psychotria viridis is allso very easy to grow as long as the temperature does not fall under about 5c , indoors and out doors if it doesnt get direct sun and the air is a bit wet . The contents of used coffee filters does it good as it likes a slightly acid substrat . The seeds of all 3 are available by post and nobody will have any idea what they realy are or what they contain . I have had them for the last 8 years and no one has noticed , not even the forces of evil when they came to visit . The mimosas are not so easy to grow as they are VERY sensative . Acacia seeds are hard to sprout , they like it HOT . Gardening books say they need to be put in HOT water and /or have their sides cut open with a sharp knife to sprout . In my experience the best thing to do with them is ingest them and then shit around the garden . In nature that is how they get spread around...this is one of the big secrets in nature , most of it has been/must go through some animals guts first to be fertile.....this is how fly agaric spores find each other and get spread around in the desolation of the tundra/taiga . 4:- Active charcoal , carbo activatus , comes in diferent sized granulates and as a fine powder . I use a 2.5 milimeter granulate as the smaler it is the quicker the coffee filter gets cloged . The finer it is the finer the things it filters out . The powder is almost imposible to use without a good vacume pump . I have read that the powder should be wet with the solvent first and the grain not . If you look at sources describing making honey oil from hash they say more on how to use it and in what amounts . You do loose some DMT in the charcoal and its not a good idea to throw it into the next acid extraction as it blocks the filters even more , so throw it away . 5:- Asd far as i know it makes no sense to try extracting the grasses as the amount that they contain is to unstable and they contain gramine , a nasty poison , wich can not be easily removed from the DMT to my knowledge. 6:- NO ONE should ever warm natha or any petro extract on a cooker . I put my mxtures on top of the fridge where it gets a good shake from the vibrations the fridge makes and i turn the heating on so that the room is 25 - 30c . THIS IS ENOUGH . The few piss percent more that it caries when it is hot is not worth the certainty of explosion or fire . Speculation about using a big saucepan on a small electric ring is in my opinion idiotic . How warm is warm ? , the only thing that comes after warm is BANG . Blowing the solvent off is the best idea as the dust will be washed out in the re crystalisation / cleaning later . 7:- Heating extracts that have a high PH KILLS THEM . 8:- Acidifying to PH 2 is unnesecery . If i can make ayahuasca with only water it means that the DMT is in a form wich is water soluable . I read that it is water soluable because it is a / or in a chloride or chlorate form ? I once put to mutch acid in my ayahuasca mix and found a soup dish full of crystals in the bottom of it . My local chemist said they were possibly either oxalic or galic acid crystals , no one was sure so i threw the whole mixture away . 9:- Be carefull with stupid sugestions about useing vinegar to neutralise alkali spills on your skin , OR EYES !!! First you must hold the burn under running water , dont put it in still water like in a bucket . The alkali needs to be forcefully washed of = turn the tap on as mutch as you can . Hold it there for at LEAST 5 minutes , 10 is better and then use the vinegar . If you put vinegar directly on alkali splashes it BURNS like fuck . A normal alkali burn with PH 13.77 , if washed off straight away is not realy a problem . It feels like a nettle sting but over a much bigger area and goes away after a few days . If you put it straight into vinegar it takes a week or more to stop hurting . How do i know ? because i`m the loony who smokes loads of dope , sits around in the middle of the night in his underpants and then gets an urge to shake all the 15 liter wine flagons one last time before going to bed . You dont notice it on the souls of your feet till the next day , when it is to late . 10:- Washing with bicarbonate of soda in water , or just water sounds stupid to me . The bicarbonate is base and the solution probably carys exess base as well , both mixed together means that the water wash would remove base DMT with it . 11:- I see little sense in making seperate recipies for all the different DMT sources . The extractions are all the same , the only diference is in how the DMT is packed . If its hard or otherwise dificult to powder it is easy to soak it in acidic water for a day and then freeze it for a day and then thaw it for a day repeatedly and/or puting it in a preasure cooker untill it is soft enough to be put into a blender . 12:- Useing drain cleaner to base with takes ages to get enough in because of the heat and foam it generates . The drain cleaner available here seems to be packed in at least three diferent sorts of delayed release lumps ? Wich have diferent colours . The actual base reaction finishes quite quickly , but then i think the base reacts with the chlorine in the water producing a chlorine smell and then it reacts with the fat and vegetable matter and smells like amonia . The reactions take about 48 hours to finish , the mixture turns black or red and smells like a hamster cage . I think adding benzine to the mixture before it has finished reacting might help to cause emulsion problems . ( I tried once to get the PH as high as i could in a mixtur, it took 1.6 kilos of drain cleaner to bring 30 liters up to PH 13.77 , but then the DMT shot over into the benzine ). 13:- When using a seperatory funel it might look like it has all separated in a few minutes but my experience shows its best to leave it for an hour at least and then let it of as slow as possible , stopping 3 or 4 times each time to let it catch up with itself. It does not mater how carefull you are you ALWAYS get a little bit of the alkali/water solution in your evaporation product , thats another reason why you should always do a second wash/crystalisation . 14:- I`ve been experimenting with aceton , working on a DMT GOD tek . At first i was VERY exited and impressed.....BUT then came the problems . I`m not a chemist and i have no idea about chemistry but i will do my best to explain . The fat was always one of the bigest problems in extracting DMT . I thought about it and remembered that acetone mixes with fat and with water . So i used a cold acacia maidenii leaf ( 1 kilo ) acid extraction , a cold/warm psychotria viridis leaf ( 1 kilo ) acid extraction and a warm peganum harmala ( 1 kilo ) acid extraction , boiled the 2 warm extracts down to 10 liters each ( the cold one was already 10 liters without boiling it ) , filtered them through a tshirt and then put 1 liter of acetone in each and shook like fuck for a few minutes and then let them stand . After a few minutes the fat layer had dissapeared , it had mixed itself with the water . Then i tried puting 1 liter of petroether on top of each and shakeing. They separated within minutes , i let them stand for a day and the petroether turned dark red on the p.viridis mix , dark piss colour on the a.maidenii and bright orange/rust colour on the p.harmala mixes . I tried the same with washbenzine = naptha and the same thing happened again . I`ve done 10 x 1 liter washes on the 10 liter p.viridis leaf extract and it is still coming out bright red , it just takes a bit more standing and / or shaking each time . Allthough the shaking does not seem to be needed . It does not form an emulsion no mater how mutch i shake it and always clears in a few minutes . It seems to me that the aceton mixes with the fat and water and then when you put the benzine in the exess of acetone mixes with the benzin . I think that maybe as the fat mixes with the water it makes the water carry less DMT = it pushes it into the aceton /benzine mixture . Wich would explain why it all happens so fast . The blowing it off with a fan bit allso goes very fast till the aceton is gone . Then i realised that the aceton extracts nearly everything from the solution ( = It is less and benzine is more selective ), the things that are soluable in water and benzine and when it evaporates it leaves a sticky mixture that is not soluable in either alone , it just sticks to the side of the evaporation dish . I had hoped that i could filter the solvent with charcoal , followed by distilled water to wash it with and then an amonia wash . I then realised that washing an acetone extract in a filter with amonia would probably just wash the whole mixture through the filter ? as the amonia is mixed with water . I gave up the washing it in distilled water after trying it and the water turned pink . ( see 10 above ) I am not a fan of washing things in a filter and then scraping them off , filters are for letting what you want through and catching the shit . I can acept washing what has been caught in the filter with amonia and then washing the fiterate out again with petroether afterwards because it evaporates fully . I`m not sure if all the extra work with aceton is worth the effort . Maybe with all the extra process steps , extra solvents/expence and the bulk one would loose more than one gained ? I have 30 liters of mixtures and at this rate i will need at least another 20 liters of naptha = 90 Euros !!!. The only posibility seems to be to blow the aceton of the top of the extracted solution . Wich means the water soluable extract will either form gunk / slime / sludge on the walls and bottom of the evaporation bowl or if i`m very , very lucky separate into layers again ( HA! HA! HA!). Then filter it with charcoal , blow the naptha away and cary on with the amonia wash , folowed by a recrystalisation in petroether . 15:- I`d be very interested to hear what every one else has to say about what i have written , especialy what you said about aceton/alkalis and incompatabilities Vortex . Sorry if this sounds like a sermon or a bit insulting to some people , It is ment to be helpfull , hopefuly to provoke each other to think in new directions , get answers and find solutions for us all . I will try to get hold of a digital camera and then beam some fotos over so you can see what i am talking about . LOVE GOD