Hello Everyone! I have somewhat successfully pulled DMT from 50g Mimosa Hostilis bark although with a few issues that I'm not 100 percent sure on the cause. My way of wording can be a bit confusing so I will try my best to make it easier to understand my process.
Here is a run down on the procedure:
I mixed the equivalent amount of caustic soda 50g with warm water by adding a third of the caustic soda every 15 minutes and waited until it fully dissolved before I added more, this took about an hour.
Then I prepared the bark in a seperate jar where I would mix it with the caustic soda solution. I mixed for a few minutes until I felt the majority of the bark was soaked however dry spots still remained until the 2nd pull which I am currently still doing.
Then I added 75ml of Shellite (The Australian equivalent to Naphtha for you Americans) and swirled it until it was fully mixed with the aqueous layer. I then put this jar in a hot water bath which fully submerged both layers in the mix jar. I tried to make sure the water bath was always hot or warm and made sure the organic layer was mixed with the aqueous as much as possible, of course it wasn't possible to keep it mixed all the time but I did my best to make sure it was always somewhat mixed.
I was following a guide on Rumble and he said to wait 24 hours before proceeding to the next step, however I noticed that the organic layer was already very yellow and after a bit more time it wasn't really changing colour anymore, so I though it would be best to start precipitation since (correct me if I'm wrong) the shellite can only hold a certain amount of DMT. So I proceeded to remove the organic layer with a small dropper I had on hand.
This is where I believe the process may have messed up a bit, When I was sucking out the organic layer with my small dropper it was a very transparent yellow but after some time it became very murky and I didn't think much of it because it's still yellow. I did pick up a bit of plant material from the aqueous layer which I couldn't remove from the solution before proceeding to the precipitation. I am not sure on the reason why the solution became murky after some time, although I do recall when I fell asleep and awoke to check on the mix it was cold and the organic layer was murky but once I reheated the water bath that murkiness went away. Could anyone elaborate on why the solution became murky? Was it because the temperature drop allowed fats and oils to merge with the organic layer or could it simply be because some of the mix was emulsified? I left my 2nd pull overnight and the water bath went cold too but the organic layer is not murky like my 1st pull.

When I done a freeze precipitation, the volume of the substance that was left on the bottom of the jar was phenomenal I couldn't believe how much I yielded. That was until I removed the shellite (which was still murky and would not go back to a transparent appearance) and allowed some time for the remaining liquids to evaporate. A majority of the batch turned into a sludge which I was very unhappy with.


I looked up on these forums about recrystallisation but saw that I needed heptane so I just decided to mix what I had with some weed and hope for the best (it was ok), then I scraped up the remaining residue and put it aside in a little bag. Then I ran clean shellite through the jar which still had residue all over it and behold, this time it's exactly how I expected it to look. The image shown is after I scraped it up but it pretty much left specks of the powder all over the bottom of the jar, no more sludge after running it through clean shellite, I was very happy at this moment because it appeared like a cluster of yellow stars



So I have a few questions after this experience:
What does a murky organic layer signal?
Is it better to wait 24 hours during extraction or does time not matter as long as the organic layer is yellow and no longer changing colour?
Should I also be waiting 24 hours during freeze precipitation? Or is it ok to end it as soon as the shellite becomes transparent again.
Can I recrystallise without heptane? because It seems like I saved a bit of the dmt residue by running it through clean shellite
Here is a run down on the procedure:
I mixed the equivalent amount of caustic soda 50g with warm water by adding a third of the caustic soda every 15 minutes and waited until it fully dissolved before I added more, this took about an hour.
Then I prepared the bark in a seperate jar where I would mix it with the caustic soda solution. I mixed for a few minutes until I felt the majority of the bark was soaked however dry spots still remained until the 2nd pull which I am currently still doing.
Then I added 75ml of Shellite (The Australian equivalent to Naphtha for you Americans) and swirled it until it was fully mixed with the aqueous layer. I then put this jar in a hot water bath which fully submerged both layers in the mix jar. I tried to make sure the water bath was always hot or warm and made sure the organic layer was mixed with the aqueous as much as possible, of course it wasn't possible to keep it mixed all the time but I did my best to make sure it was always somewhat mixed.
I was following a guide on Rumble and he said to wait 24 hours before proceeding to the next step, however I noticed that the organic layer was already very yellow and after a bit more time it wasn't really changing colour anymore, so I though it would be best to start precipitation since (correct me if I'm wrong) the shellite can only hold a certain amount of DMT. So I proceeded to remove the organic layer with a small dropper I had on hand.
This is where I believe the process may have messed up a bit, When I was sucking out the organic layer with my small dropper it was a very transparent yellow but after some time it became very murky and I didn't think much of it because it's still yellow. I did pick up a bit of plant material from the aqueous layer which I couldn't remove from the solution before proceeding to the precipitation. I am not sure on the reason why the solution became murky after some time, although I do recall when I fell asleep and awoke to check on the mix it was cold and the organic layer was murky but once I reheated the water bath that murkiness went away. Could anyone elaborate on why the solution became murky? Was it because the temperature drop allowed fats and oils to merge with the organic layer or could it simply be because some of the mix was emulsified? I left my 2nd pull overnight and the water bath went cold too but the organic layer is not murky like my 1st pull.

When I done a freeze precipitation, the volume of the substance that was left on the bottom of the jar was phenomenal I couldn't believe how much I yielded. That was until I removed the shellite (which was still murky and would not go back to a transparent appearance) and allowed some time for the remaining liquids to evaporate. A majority of the batch turned into a sludge which I was very unhappy with.


I looked up on these forums about recrystallisation but saw that I needed heptane so I just decided to mix what I had with some weed and hope for the best (it was ok), then I scraped up the remaining residue and put it aside in a little bag. Then I ran clean shellite through the jar which still had residue all over it and behold, this time it's exactly how I expected it to look. The image shown is after I scraped it up but it pretty much left specks of the powder all over the bottom of the jar, no more sludge after running it through clean shellite, I was very happy at this moment because it appeared like a cluster of yellow stars



So I have a few questions after this experience:
What does a murky organic layer signal?
Is it better to wait 24 hours during extraction or does time not matter as long as the organic layer is yellow and no longer changing colour?
Should I also be waiting 24 hours during freeze precipitation? Or is it ok to end it as soon as the shellite becomes transparent again.
Can I recrystallise without heptane? because It seems like I saved a bit of the dmt residue by running it through clean shellite