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If you're having trouble getting crystals from acrb, use this tek (thick-light)

Migrated topic.
Aquarius said:
It could be the fat/resins that provide the glue as to stick the particles onto.
I think you are on to something with this one.

For now, it is good night to all, take care till next time.

Aquarius, SWIM is also from the land of confusa :) Maybe you guys can compare notes sometime lol. Although they are starting out with their first extraction and will be a while before they are seasoned to your level.

Btw perhaps it would be a good idea to edit your posts and remove your exact location, as I'm sure if word gets out, unscrupulous bandits will begin harvesting by the most unsustainable methods :cry:
 
MagicGing said:
Well if you want to remove the oils/ what not, you could try backsalting
you mean converting it into a salt again? all i have right now is vinegar, will that work?

ive tried recrystallization with naphtha, and leaving it out in a jar. i will see small crystals on the bottom but when i scrape it up theres also a sticky goo that comes along with it (the bottom of the thing also feels sticky)

how many recrystallizations until I get powdered product?

FROM THE TEK:
30838152.jpg


FROM RECRYSTALLIZATION:
83712423.jpg
 
Yes backsalting is turning it back into a salt.

Distilled vinegar will work fine, with the addition of the second wash of some dH2O (maybe slightly acidic)

In theory, the vinegar will convert the alks in the goo into a water soluble salt, leaving behind everything that doesnt convert (like fats etc). Then the water is used to pull all the remaining salts from the goo. Then proceed as an A/B.

After the acidic wash in a backsalting procedure, in theory, there is only water, vinegar and alks in the acidic solution
 
Greetings everyone.
I recently procured some ACRB, only 28 grams because of my not wanting to blow so much cash on my first extraction.. I've got some pretty decent chemistry knowledge so I'm confident. I'm just afraid that I might end up with goo like what seems to be happening to a couple people here.

I'm going to try a mixture of a few A/B teks that i've seen around, I've gotten all my chemicals and glassware (except a glass baster, that has been the most difficult thing to find, even the Lye wasn't this annoying to find :( ).

Anyhow, I was wondering if anyone has ever tried this during crystallization.. when you make rock candy, or sugar crystal, you're basically supersaturating the solution, and as it cools the crystals form. I was wondering if anyone ever tried putting a string into the solution, similar to how you do when making sugar crystals, the crystals tend to form on the string. So maybe this will help with people getting crystals mixed with goo? :? just a thougt :D
 
I personally believe much of these issues are due to reliability of source material than inaccuracies in peoples execution of a straight forward tek.
I imagine the string technique would work, but would be no different than leaving it to precipitate in a freezer. It will probably be less effective than letting the crystals precipitate in a heavily saturated solution within a freezer.
28 grams really isn`t much, especially if you are like me and are seeing nowhere near the results of the original poster, or have highly variable material.
Peace.
 
Logic tells me that the water/acid ratio must equal what exists for the 500g tek, and then scale the amount of base.
For instance, every saucepan is different, and you may feel additional water would be easier to cover 250g (or whatever you are using, could be 1KG).
So, lets say you use 250g of powdered bark.
- 250g of bark may be better covered by 1500ml, instead of a straight scaled figure of 1000ml.
- Calculate what we will refer to as the scaling figure.
scaling_figure = (liquid you add)/(liquid the original tek calls for)
scaling_figure = 1500/2000 = 0.75
- The amount of vinegar to add would be 100 (original vinegar amount) * scaling_figure = 75mls.
Then when it comes time for the base step, the same scaling_figure can be used.
- Sodium Hydroxide to add = 150g (original value) * scaling figure = 110g (I am just rounding to a nicer number)

That's how I see it, and how I would perform the scaling.
I plan to do the above scaling on the 250g of bark I have waiting.
REALLY, hoping to get some good results this time.
 
shanedudddy2 said:
Logic tells me that the water/acid ratio must equal what exists for the 500g tek, and then scale the amount of base.
For instance, every saucepan is different, and you may feel additional water would be easier to cover 250g (or whatever you are using, could be 1KG).
So, lets say you use 250g of powdered bark.
- 250g of bark may be better covered by 1500ml, instead of a straight scaled figure of 1000ml.
- Calculate what we will refer to as the scaling figure.
scaling_figure = (liquid you add)/(liquid the original tek calls for)
scaling_figure = 1500/2000 = 0.75
- The amount of vinegar to add would be 100 (original vinegar amount) * scaling_figure = 75mls.
Then when it comes time for the base step, the same scaling_figure can be used.
- Sodium Hydroxide to add = 150g (original value) * scaling figure = 110g (I am just rounding to a nicer number)

That's how I see it, and how I would perform the scaling.
I plan to do the above scaling on the 250g of bark I have waiting.
REALLY, hoping to get some good results this time.

My friend recently cooked up 250g of freshly harvested AC trunk bark with 5% root bark and 5% branch bark. Here's the proportions she used for the cook.

Total of 2000ml distilled water with 200-250ml white vinegar. PH around 3.
Reduced to 500ml and added 40-50g sodium hydroxide (until soup turned black).
300ml of naphtha used on first pull and crystals are dropping at room temp (24+ degrees celsius).

Will post more pics and details once my friend is done with all pulls and weighed/finalized.
 

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jimmy4fingers said:
shanedudddy2 said:
Logic tells me that the water/acid ratio must equal what exists for the 500g tek, and then scale the amount of base.
For instance, every saucepan is different, and you may feel additional water would be easier to cover 250g (or whatever you are using, could be 1KG).
So, lets say you use 250g of powdered bark.
- 250g of bark may be better covered by 1500ml, instead of a straight scaled figure of 1000ml.
- Calculate what we will refer to as the scaling figure.
scaling_figure = (liquid you add)/(liquid the original tek calls for)
scaling_figure = 1500/2000 = 0.75
- The amount of vinegar to add would be 100 (original vinegar amount) * scaling_figure = 75mls.
Then when it comes time for the base step, the same scaling_figure can be used.
- Sodium Hydroxide to add = 150g (original value) * scaling figure = 110g (I am just rounding to a nicer number)

That's how I see it, and how I would perform the scaling.
I plan to do the above scaling on the 250g of bark I have waiting.
REALLY, hoping to get some good results this time.

My friend recently cooked up 250g of freshly harvested AC trunk bark with 5% root bark and 5% branch bark. Here's the proportions she used for the cook.

Total of 2000ml distilled water with 200-250ml white vinegar. PH around 3.
Reduced to 500ml and added 40-50g sodium hydroxide (until soup turned black).
300ml of naphtha used on first pull and crystals are dropping at room temp (24+ degrees celsius).

Will post more pics and details once my friend is done with all pulls and weighed/finalized.
i'd really love to hear how those fluffy crystals smoke as i have a few grams of those perfect white crystals that have almost no effect when smoked at <100 mg.
 
MagicGing said:
That pic is awesome

Anyone have any idea how long it generally takes for the precipitates to form at room temp?

The naphtha was already milky/cloudy after the decant. Left it in a dark/cool place and crystals began to form around the 1-2hr mark. I've read that they form earlier but 1-2hr mark was when my friend first checked up on it. They didn't grow any larger after around the 8hr mark, but they were left to sit for 16hrs. Currently drying out in front of a fan and the rest of the naphtha is placed in the fridge which has already turned milky/cloudy. Hopefully crystals should form then decant for a final freeze precip.
 
mailorderdiety, they've not been vaped yet but hopefully they're active :| Will update you once the results are in.

At <100mg, did you weigh it before vape/smoking? I read in a previous thick-light thread that the fluffiness can be quite deceptive in volume even though its mass is quite low.
 
MagicGing said:
Hmm. After the crystals finished growing, was the solvent still cloudy?

Nope it goes clear even at around the 1-2hr mark.

So swim just vaped up some of the fluffly white crystals in the pic and got a very intense pins and needles sensation throughout the whole body. Seems quite painful actually. Comes on right away after a toke and lasts around 30s-1min. Is this supposed to happen with regular dmt? As it's swims first time trying, swim is uncertain. Calibrated 50mg but still quite a lot left in the pipe.
 
thats fairly common.. for me its a sort of crushing feeling. it always feels uncomfortable to begin with and then eventually turns into a pleasant feeling. I only really get it with lower doses - in my experience the higher and more visual the dose the more pleasant the crushing effect feels. i've found confusa extract needs higher dosages compared to purer dmt extracts.. 50mg may only be equivalent to say 25mg of dmt if the nmt to dmt ratio is even. ..also if working with goo, it will take longer to vaporise so best let the vapor build up longer before inhaling.. otherwise you might not get as far as you hoped..the goo seems a bit more protected from heat and slower to vaporise
 
acacian said:
thats fairly common.. for me its a sort of crushing feeling. it always feels uncomfortable to begin with and then eventually turns into a pleasant feeling. I only really get it with lower doses - in my experience the higher and more visual the dose the more pleasant the crushing effect feels. i've found confusa extract needs higher dosages compared to purer dmt extracts.. 50mg may only be equivalent to say 25mg of dmt if the nmt to dmt ratio is even. ..also if working with goo, it will take longer to vaporise so best let the vapor build up longer before inhaling.. otherwise you might not get as far as you hoped..the goo seems a bit more protected from heat and slower to vaporise

Hmm swim is only managing around 10mg per toke, then the tingling needles kick in and swim has to sit back and wait it out. Are you able to get 50mg in one go?
 
yep.. 10mg is quite a low dose. a typical "breakthrough" with a pure dmt extract would be anywhere from 30mg or more.. 50mg is a very powerful dose. more than 50mg would be needed for a breakthrough with confusa unless your extract is mainly dmt
 
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