Thank you. I will move it to a more shaded area.Put it in a more controlled environment away from too much direct light or very cold temperatures. If you've grafted it successfully it should bounce back fine.
The button is still soft, actually softer than before and very wrinkled. It is firmly in place, so i can't pull it off without force, but i can see slightly under one of the sides and it looks like a root is starting to form on the bottom of the button.How's the graft doing now? I attempted a similar graft of peyote onto bridgesii but it failed to take. Ime, PC pachanoi ('pachanot') makes a far better grafting stock, although what you have there as a "bridgesii" looks nothing like mine (too many spines per areole, and a lack of longer spines). I'd be inclined to say it might be more in the direction of a macrogonus/peruvianus although I won't lend that as much confidence as the previous statement. Was your specimen - perchance - mislabelled? This may work out in your favour with the graft.
I just checked the pot and it is clearly labelled as "SP" (meaning san pedro, which is how i labelled my Pachanoi), so you are correct, it is not a Bridgesii! It should be a Pachanoi, but it is possible it could be a Peruvianus as i planted Pachanoi and Peruvianus at the same time. They were in different trays, but as we have established, i can be an idiot sometimes. I have no idea why i thought it was a Bridgesii, clearly i was rushing around and not paying attention! The good thing that came from this is you have taught me how to tell the difference, so thank you! 

Well, the one on the bridgesii failed so I had to remove it. Currently I'm seeing if it'll take root in damp sand. Both sides of the graft had callussed over. This may have been due to a disturbance occurring in the early stages, so I may yet make another attempt.What is the result of yours? does the button still stick to the stock?
to graft i cut the top off the stock, then the angles down each rib. Then i cut the top off the scion and put it on top. i pulled it down with some cheese cloth held in place mostly by catching on the spines, but also by wrapping some string around a couple of times. There wasn't much tension on there so probably little pressure, maybe i need more? Everything was sanitized with alcohol before.Sorry, I missed this thread.
How did you graft? What pressure have you used on the scion?
The pup of the rootstock has to be removed. The energy has to be directed to the scion.
What is your relative humidity? Ideal is 50-60. Anything higher can lead to mold or rot and anything lower will dry out the scion.
Keep it in a shade, don't use full sun till the scion plumps up.
If you try to move the scion by fingers (lightly!), does it hold? After a month it should stick quite a lot. If it holds, it should be ok.
i was excited about it 

Shame about the failed graft, but fingers crossed it should root okay. That's exactly what i will do if mine fails. Cacti are very resilient. I'm also thinking about doing another attempt. My scion roots are pupping like crazy so i think i can get away with risking another top.Well, the one on the bridgesii failed so I had to remove it. Currently I'm seeing if it'll take root in damp sand. Both sides of the graft had callussed over. This may have been due to a disturbance occurring in the early stages, so I may yet make another attempt.
The graft to PC pach is doing exceedingly well and is basically a plump pup factory - highly recommended, the growth must be ten times faster than when on its own roots - and it has also flowered recently. Alas, the weather was not suitable for getting a decent picture of the bloom opening fully.

When grafting a cactus, pressure between the scion and the rootstock is one of the most important factors. The pressure should be as high as possible, but not so high that it damages the scion.to graft i cut the top off the stock, then the angles down each rib. Then i cut the top off the scion and put it on top. i pulled it down with some cheese cloth held in place mostly by catching on the spines, but also by wrapping some string around a couple of times. There wasn't much tension on there so probably little pressure, maybe i need more? Everything was sanitized with alcohol before.
In fact all the grafting is about acquiring and directing of the life energy. Like in normal life. If directed correctly, everything works much betterI will remove the pup. Thank you, i was not aware to do thati was excited about it
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These plants are extremely resilient, it should be okI did remove it from direct light when it was suggested by Trip above, but it was around 12 days in full sun before i moved it to shade.
The better is the joint, the faster is the start. If the scion holds and looks alive, it probably just needs some time to form the joint.I have tried pulling lightly on the scion and it does hold very well. It still doesn't seem to be plumping up even now after 2 months but it is definitely firmly in place.
Here you can see my preferred way. I use elastic electrical tape.to graft i cut the top off the stock, then the angles down each rib. Then i cut the top off the scion and put it on top. i pulled it down with some cheese cloth held in place mostly by catching on the spines, but also by wrapping some string around a couple of times. There wasn't much tension on there so probably little pressure, maybe i need more? Everything was sanitized with alcohol before.
