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Non toxic food safe extraction of mescaline using d-limonene (orange oil)

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biopsylo said:
~~Traveler::

does fasa precipitate better than fasipa? fasipa worked well with fresh cooked cactus, but not so well with san pedro powder. dont know why. it is very hard to separate from the dlimo because it is too whispy, and does not hold together to decant. also, it will go thru a coffee filter. this was not the case with cooked fresh cactus that clumped nicely with fasipa, and formed a cake on the filter.


couldnt you wait for precips to stop then just add water and let it be separated as an aqueous phase, then evap the water? or would the ipa mess up this theory
 
@ mr kush

tell your foaf to use the least amount of water as possible when extracting mesc (especially when your bassifying the powder)

roll basic powder around in a vessel, this separates the dlimo out

try using a caserole dish (the big square pyrex), the more surface area exposed the easier the separation, unless your basic cacti is more of aslurry, if thats the case, well idk man, id add more cacti till it gets clumpy
 
From the wikipedia article on methyl ethyl ketone:
Butanone is listed as a Table II precursor under the United Nations Convention Against Illicit Traffic in Narcotic Drugs and Psychotropic Substances.

I've searched the net for where to buy this, and it seems that only some major chemical supply companies have it. How much should one expect to pay for x quantity? Also, isn't it a bit risky to purchase given the above information?

Perhaps there's something easier to use that can be found at a local hardware store?
 
What tek/methods have people had success with when trying to squeeze the limonene from the cactus mush before adding the vinegar? (As in, if you havent got a french coffee press) ?

SWIM is struggling at the minute!!
 
Mr. Kush said:
My FOAF is in the middle of this...

He is having a hard time seperating the d-limo from the cactus sludge. When he tries to filter it with either papers or wire mesh the sludge clogs up the pores and doesn't allow any of the d-limo to pass through. He's not able to decant it off the top either...

has anyone come up with a good way to seperate the two?

Sorry for asking, I tried my best to read through the 54 pages, but only had time to scan and couldn't find anything.

My foaf did this a couple years ago with success, but at the time had a buchner funnel he poored it into, the vacuum helped the liquid(NP) come through. He no longer has one...


Foaf was also wondering if seperating isn't doable if he could add more water and NaOH and turn it into a stb. Does D-limo seperate easy or does it form nasty emulsions?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Thats a doosey.., but you can fix it (imho).

Add more water, lye and salt, then stir the mixture in a warm container (water bath) and as long as you have the cactus sludge thinned out enough by the water, you'll eventually get separation.

Once i got separation, and pulled off my limo I'd dry that sludge, and pull with limo, then just filter out the particulates, no agua, no goo/sludge :thumb_up:

You could also try freezing it/thawing it, or thinning it out with a bit of water, and throwing it on a vibrating surface. I'd be careful putting something with limo in it in a pc, or something going on the stove.

You could put a vac on it too, that would prob burst the cell walls/sludge/slime your getting when hydrating cactus flesh.

I prefer not to mess around with that gooey/slimy/sludgy/unfilterable crap by doing a 70-90% dry alcohol pull on the powder or chips, and make a resin first. Then proceed to do a stb,a/b, or just eat that resin if you don't care about purifying the alkaloids.

No goop/sludge involved.
 
Directly salting rested/decanted/clear limonene with benzoic acid powder is a likely simplification for this TEK. I'll give it a try eventually and report back, but if anyone is doing this limonene process and feels like trying an experiment they may find that benzoic acid simplifies the salting step a lot.

Benzoic acid is used in the food industry as a preservative and available as food grade.

Cheers and happy crystal growing ✨
 
Loveall said:
Directly salting rested/decanted/clear limonene with benzoic acid powder is a likely simplification for this TEK. I'll give it a try eventually and report back, but if anyone is doing this limonene process and feels like trying an experiment they may find that benzoic acid simplifies the salting step a lot.

Benzoic acid is used in the food industry as a preservative and available as food grade.

Cheers and happy crystal growing ✨

Tried adding benzoic acid to limonene pulls. Doesn't work. No xtals precipitated. Can't explain why toluene works but not limonene 🤷‍♂️
 
@Loveall
@69ron
@doubledog
@_Trip_

Please help me. I understood step 6 very well, but step 7 I did not understand at all. Again. Do we add 300 ml of limonene to the cactus pulp we extracted from the coffee filter?
When we do this 3 times, we use 900 ml d limonene (300+300+300) for 100 gr cactus. don't you think this is a lot? there is a mistake here, I really don't understand step 7. Help..
 
Last edited:
You use same 300 ml of solvent repeatedly, after every extraction cycle from cactus pulp you separate solvent and extract alkaloids from it into acidic water. After such step, you use it again on cactus pulp / paste.
 
You use same 300 ml of solvent repeatedly, after every extraction cycle from cactus pulp you separate solvent and extract alkaloids from it into acidic water. After such step, you use it again on cactus pulp / paste.

Then why does it say d limonene 900 ml in the ingredients section? This is what confused me the most.
 
You can also extract three times and salt out into acidic water in one go, that way it will be easier - you perform only one mixing of solvent with acidic water instead of three.
 
After mixing the d limonene with the vinegar, I will separate the vinegar. d I will add salt into limonene. So what is the measurement? How much salt should I add?
 
You can also extract three times and salt out into acidic water in one go, that way it will be easier - you perform only one mixing of solvent with acidic water instead of three.
Tuz (NaCl) gerekmez. Bu durumda bir asetat salt meskalin sirke ile birleştiğinde oluşur.
Then what did doubledog want to say here? I just asked if it would be okay if I reused the d d limonene that we didn't use.
 
"Salt out" means turning the alkaloid freebase into a salt by adding an acid. This is what allows the nonpolar-soluble freebase to move into the water phase - the protonated alkaloid becomes water soluble. The acid (vinegar) provides the proton to the alkaloidal freebase, and the combination of positively charged, protonated alkaloid along with the remaining deprotonated, and thus negatively-charged, "base" of the acid - in this case, acetate - is refered to as a salt, or a salt form of the alkaloid.

@doubledog said that you can use the same 300mL of limonene three times for pulls, or use three separate portions of 300mL which makes a total of 900mL. Use the former approach if you have less limonene, or the latter if you prefer to save all your pulls and treat them with acid just the once and all in one go.

Re-using the same 300mL entails washing it with acid between each pull so it can pull more alkaloid again afterwards. Otherwise it would be saturated with alkaloid and there would be no point in returning it to the base + plant mixture.
 
Re-using the same 300mL entails washing it with acid between each pull so it can pull more alkaloid again afterwards. Otherwise it would be saturated with alkaloid and there would be no point in returning it to the base + plant mixture.

Can you please describe how I can wash 300 ml limonene with acid?
 
Put your limonene (or any solvent ) and acidic water together into one suitable container, mix very well (you should really focus on good mixing), wait till solvent and water separate into two layers and separate them.
Use non polar again for another cycle of extraction.
Evaporate water to obtain crude alkaloid in form of mescaline salt.

Using 900ml or 3x300ml is just matter of convenience or your personal choice, chemistry is still the same.
 
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