official extraction help thread

[psilocybin]

Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.

 

[boogerz]

[/i]

Have I done something wrong? Is this brown fatty layer still in my Basic Soup mixture?
Do I need the brown fatty liquid? Does it contain DMT?

If I don't need it can I seal my clean up flask and turn end of end similar to Naphtha pulling stage?

Any help will be greatly appreciated

Many thanks!

[/i]

As far as I know no fatty brown layer is needed to continue
Just continue to shake and pull naphtha out. Basify your water etc...

Use a flat dish instead of a mason jar for final frezze IMO way easier to scrape out your final product than a mason jar

 

[Spaced Out 2]

Its not normally a brown fatty layer, if you read the clean up stage just once more you will see it says white fatty layer. It usually sits right on top of the acidic solution, and there's some that can sit on top of the basic solution as well when you're doing your initial pulls.

This is normal especially with ACRB. If your not seeing any there may not be many fats in your mix, and you won't see the DMT transition from the yellow solvent to the acidic solution. Just gently roll it end to end multiple times, don't shake.

After you have done this several times discard the solvent layer and any fats that may or may not be sitting on top of the acidic solution. Proceed with the rest of the directions from there. Works like a charm!

Good luck :thumb_up:

 

[duku2012]

Hey guys thank you for responding. I was worried I had missed something.

I will roll the flask like you suggested Spaced.

Boogerz - I want to use a flat dish but I don't have something sealable that I trust. I bought some Pyrex dishes recently and the tops are a bit flimsy. I stored a bit of Naphtha in then and found they leaked.

I know it can be a pain to scrap a mason jar but I'm confident that there will be no smell and not leak.

Will freeze precipitation take longer in mason jar? I intend to pre evaporate 50% of the pulled Naphtha before freezing.

Thank you all again for taking time to respond. I'd be lost without having this resource

 

[boogerz]

Plastic (saran) wrap your rectangular glass container first then placing the lid on works

Also pre evaping until crystals just begin to form works

Good luck

 

[duku2012]

After all steps completed I was left with 400ml of pulled Naphtha.

I left it on a windowsill with a desk fan blowing onto it to pre evaporate. This took a lot longer than my first attempt. 1st attempt was 6 hours for 50% to evaporate. This time it took 13 hours. The Naphtha is very cloudy.

So I have 200ml of Naphtha in a mason jar wrapped in Saran Wrap in the freezer.

I'm going to leave it for 24 hours.

I then heated an additional 150ml of Naphtha and added this to my clean up flask. The lye water is almost clear now. After shaking and settling 4x I pipetted out the 150ml of Naphta and placed in another mason jar. I'm going to let this 150ml fully evaporate and see if I'm left with anything.

I'll post an update tomorrow. Thanks again all

 

[Spaced Out 2]

After all steps completed I was left with 400ml of pulled Naphtha.

I left it on a windowsill with a desk fan blowing onto it to pre evaporate. This took a lot longer than my first attempt. 1st attempt was 6 hours for 50% to evaporate. This time it took 13 hours. The Naphtha is very cloudy.

So I have 200ml of Naphtha in a mason jar wrapped in Saran Wrap in the freezer.

I'm going to leave it for 24 hours.

I then heated an additional 150ml of Naphtha and added this to my clean up flask. The lye water is almost clear now. After shaking and settling 4x I pipetted out the 150ml of Naphta and placed in another mason jar. I'm going to let this 150ml fully evaporate and see if I'm left with anything.

I'll post an update tomorrow. Thanks again all

Well if it was cloudy then that's definitely a good sign. Try using something other than a mason jar to freeze pricip in, it'll make scraping up the xtals easier. It will also help speed up evaping before freezing since more surface area will be exposed to the air. Good luck on the outcome and keep us updated :thumb_up:

 

[duku2012]

First of all thank you to everyone who took the time to respond to my questions. I have learnt so much during this whole process. I am a little disappointed with my yield though.

I left my mason jar for 24+ hours. There were plenty of crystals in the bottom after draining the Naphtha.

It looks like a lot but there isn't much weight to it





After scraping I'm left with 0.23... I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or I might have poor quality ACRB.

The 150ml that I left out to evaporate is forming crystals as well. I need to leave that at least another day for Naphtha to fully evaporate before I touch it.

There is a small amount left to scrap out of the jar. Its a little sticky so I figured I would leave it dry for a day.

The 0.23 that I scraped - How long should I leave it before I try it?

 

[Spaced Out 2]

If you've let it air dry and you don't smell any traces of solvent then its ok to try it out now or whenever you're ready.

As for bark quality, its really hit or miss with Acrb, don't be discouraged, you have plenty there to try out plus a little more still forming, be grateful that it worked out this time

Safe and happy journeys :thumb_up:


Peace

 

[TheVoidWithin]

Hey guys, so I need some advice here. Just finished my second (somewhat) successful extraction but I'm just not getting the yields I was hoping for.
I Started with 100g Mimosa hostilis from a reputable supplier and followed Cyb's Max Ion tek with Earthwalker's mini a/b added on.
I did the usual freeze/thaw x3 and then placed in a heat bath for around 5 hours with citric acid to bring the ph down to around 3 (I tested at each stage with ph strips). After that I added the suggested amount of salt and then shorty after the lye and placed back in a heat bath for two hours, stirring occasionally. At this point I took a break and left the base soup to sit over night. The next day I did 3x 100ml xylene pulls which I then back salted according to Earthwalkers mini a/b. after adding the lye things were looking hopeful as the solution went very milky white. I started doing 50ml heptane pulls on this and after the third pull, the solution had gone clear so I stopped pulling and placed my pulls in the freezer for the night. Around 14 hours later I drained the heptane and ended up with 200mg of pure white crystals.
So from what I've said, does anything stand out as being the cause of the low yield? should I have done more heptane pulls at the end? I've still got both flasks (main 2l bark soup and smaller 1l mini a/b flask) so I can try doing some more pulls. Should the heptane have stayed in the freezer longer? I just can't figure it out. please assist.

 

[Jees]

3 x xylene pull can possibly miss out catching actives, but that depends how well it was shaken. Gentle stirring is not enough. I've no idea how you did it.

You ended with 150 ml of pulls on the back salted liquid, which is a lot to freeze.
You should evaporate like 2/3 of it (being 100ml), then freeze the remaining 50.
You can also evaporate completely the heptane to see what gives.
14 hours is short, just leave it for 2 days in the freezer is better.

Another thing: heptane looks best warm to pull with, like 40 C (100 F), also the vessel and back salt liquid. But since your milk got transparent, it should be ok I guess.

My guessing bet is the xylene pulls were not efficient enough and more stars are still in the soup.

Hope you to succeed.

 

[The Supreme Dream]

Hello guys I was wondering if you could help me with one doubt that I have...
It's about the smoke method "the machine", I did a lot of research but I just have one lil doubt:
First question: For the DMT method "The machine" Which lighter is better? a butane lighter (aka torch lighter) or a common lighter?
And why...
Please, this question only applies for "the machine" method.
Second question:¿Where should I put the spice? I heard a lot of ways like melting the dmt with the steel srubber with an additional heat source, isn't that contradictory? I mean,the spice should not get in contact with the direct flame right?
Thats all I want to know folks, thank you...

 

[Mike-ologist]

When extracting acrb do you get both DMT and NMT in your extract?

 

[Spaced Out 2]

When extracting acrb do you get both DMT and NMT in your extract?

Yes, you can get both with Acrb.

 

[downwardsfromzero]

Hello guys I was wondering if you could help me with one doubt that I have...
It's about the smoke method "the machine", I did a lot of research but I just have one lil doubt:
First question: For the DMT method "The machine" Which lighter is better? a butane lighter (aka torch lighter) or a common lighter?
And why...
Please, this question only applies for "the machine" method.
Second question:¿Where should I put the spice? I heard a lot of ways like melting the dmt with the steel srubber with an additional heat source, isn't that contradictory? I mean,the spice should not get in contact with the direct flame right?
Thats all I want to know folks, thank you...

I thought a 'common lighter' also ran on butane. Obviously a zippo-type lighter is very suboptimal here. Anyhow, the advantage of a torch type lighter is that it burns the fuel completely so no carbon deposits are made and also there are minimal other partial combustion products to be inhaled.

If the steel wool is heated from below with the DMT on top, it won't be combusted. Or to heat up the scrubber and drop the DMT onto it after removing the flame would be even safer (if the scrubber has cooled enough for the DMT not to vaporize!) Due care and careful observation brings its accordant rewards.

 

[JefFlux]

On a side note, can anyone confirm a correlation between too much base and oily results when working with Acacia (particularly Australian variants- Acimunata primarily).
It seems that a ph in excess of 13 (as called for in Elf Spice's complete Acacia extraction) - consistently yields waxy/oil. yet a ph of 12 tends to form crystals.
with thanks

 

[puddles]

I want to use a hot plate instead of using a stovetop for an ATB 'salt' Tek extraction. Should be totally fine right? Not sure how this would make any difference, but I've never used a hot plate before so I figured it couldn't hurt to ask.
Thanks!

 

[2headsARE1]

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[syberdelic]

I have a couple of simple questions about Mimosa. I've always used powdered ACRB for extractions, but I recently came across a source for reasonably priced shredded "mimosa". I took a gamble, and procured some. The bark appears to have some dark "inner" bark, and has a deep red, and possibly purple color. It had a unique scent that I would not attribute to the ACRB that I've received in the past. I've done 1 test extraction so far, and I'm getting a really low yield (.3%) of very white crystals, and a few bright yellow clumps.

The quality of the crystals does not appear like what I normally extract on the first run, so it leads me to believe that it might be mimosa bark, not root bark,low quality bark, or possibly not even mimosa. However, I noticed another strange thing about the color of the initial vinegar soaks. I added vinegar and blended the bark, it foamed up, and it definitely had a light purple hue, but it also might have been kind of pink. Once the mixture was heated, the liquid became a very dark red/puple, almost black color. The ACRB that I've processed in the past also has a red color, but it was lighter color.

This leads me to believe that it might actually be ACRB. I've searched the web for Mimosa being used a dye, and I only found one picture on google with a deep indistinguishable purple color. Can anyone share a picture of a mimosa acid soak, so I can compare? I'm also curious why the vinegar foamed up when the mixture was blended. Is this a normal reaction when you are working with shredded bark?

This sounds fairly normal for MHRB. I've seen it pink, red, and purple. Highest yield I've ever seen was approaching 0.5%, maybe around 4.8. 0.3 is a bit on the low side but within the range that I have experienced.

 

[2headsARE1]

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[syberdelic]

That should work, or you could evaporate the solvent and then freeze precipitate what's left with straight naphtha.

you might check the pH after the foaming next time. This would indicate that your starting material is overly basic and might have consumed some of the acetic acid protons making the gas in your foam. This might have the potential to lower your yield by leaving some behind in the plant material.