psilocybin
Rising Star
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official extraction help thread
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Hey guys, just about to finish a STB (Following nomans, with the addition of salt) on 500g of MHRB. Normally I don't have any issues but for some reason the naptha in the first several pulls came out a light orange/brown color and would coat my container in a sludge. After a few frustrating attempts I was able to separate the majority of this into a smaller jar and was able to scrape up a mix of light/dark tan crystals with a total weight of 5g. Subsequent pulls however came out as one would expect, yielding nice white crystals, which was also unexpected because the mhrb ive had in the past was about half the potency as this stuff.
So my first question is this: What is the cause of the strange color in my naptha? I've never had it happen before, and was under the assumption MHRB contained very little if any plant fats and oils. If this is the case though, what can I do differently to eliminate them for future extractions.
And secondly: I normally use bestine to Re-x, however with it being discontinued im unable to find a source of heptane in Canada. Naptha is basically useless to re-x with, atleast with these impurities, so im in need of an alternative way to clean up my spice. Would dissolving my spice into a container with an acidic solution,pulling the impurities out with my solvent, then basing the solution work? Or would the impurities not migrate from the acid to the solvent.
Thanks for the help in advance! Been an observer on this forum for a long time now, just never felt the need to post.
So my first question is this: What is the cause of the strange color in my naptha? I've never had it happen before, and was under the assumption MHRB contained very little if any plant fats and oils. If this is the case though, what can I do differently to eliminate them for future extractions.
And secondly: I normally use bestine to Re-x, however with it being discontinued im unable to find a source of heptane in Canada. Naptha is basically useless to re-x with, atleast with these impurities, so im in need of an alternative way to clean up my spice. Would dissolving my spice into a container with an acidic solution,pulling the impurities out with my solvent, then basing the solution work? Or would the impurities not migrate from the acid to the solvent.
Thanks for the help in advance! Been an observer on this forum for a long time now, just never felt the need to post.
Attachments
Hello all,
I've been following Earthwalkers 100g ACRB extraction.
I've just finished my 3rd extraction and only yielded .23g of product. It's very white and fluffy and the amount looks a lot more than .23g
I have a question after pulling the Naphtha from the basic soup and placing it into water with white distilled vinegar.
The tek says to gently rock or swirl the bottle so the DMT in the Naphtha transfers to the acidic water.
Why swirl and gently rock? Why not turn the bottle end over end so the Naphtha has to work its way through the acidic water and separate? If I do this will I run into problems?
I'm a little worried that I'm leaving DMT trapped in the Naphtha.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I've been following Earthwalkers 100g ACRB extraction.
I've just finished my 3rd extraction and only yielded .23g of product. It's very white and fluffy and the amount looks a lot more than .23g
I have a question after pulling the Naphtha from the basic soup and placing it into water with white distilled vinegar.
The tek says to gently rock or swirl the bottle so the DMT in the Naphtha transfers to the acidic water.
Why swirl and gently rock? Why not turn the bottle end over end so the Naphtha has to work its way through the acidic water and separate? If I do this will I run into problems?
I'm a little worried that I'm leaving DMT trapped in the Naphtha.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Phagopsytosis
Rising Star
Max Ion Tek performed. Pulled with naptha x3, but after the 3rd pull there were some crystal-like solids forming btwn layers. Decided to pull as much naptha as possible, then moved on to tolul, thinking maybe the tol would dissolve the xtals, but with no luck.
I'm wondering if anybody would be able direct a person to the proper tek to address the creation of solids between the base MHRB layer and the NPS layer... I thought it was just taking a long time for the NPH to separate from the base layer, but after leaving it overnight the solids continue to accumulate between the layers. Is this Xtals or impurities or something else?
I added a bit more of hot NPS to the layer to try to dissolve whatever that stuff is but it didn't seem to work. I'm working with about 2L of base to apprx 2-ml of NPS. I've tried to pull the white x-tal looking solids but they are impossible to pull without catching some of the base solution.
Any help or suggestions would be Appreciated. We really like the full-spectrum stuff, so the less I have to "clean" the better (as I understand, cleaning decreases yield and removes other active alks. -> Plz correct me if I'm wrong...)
Thanks folks in advance for the help!
I'm wondering if anybody would be able direct a person to the proper tek to address the creation of solids between the base MHRB layer and the NPS layer... I thought it was just taking a long time for the NPH to separate from the base layer, but after leaving it overnight the solids continue to accumulate between the layers. Is this Xtals or impurities or something else?
I added a bit more of hot NPS to the layer to try to dissolve whatever that stuff is but it didn't seem to work. I'm working with about 2L of base to apprx 2-ml of NPS. I've tried to pull the white x-tal looking solids but they are impossible to pull without catching some of the base solution.
Any help or suggestions would be Appreciated. We really like the full-spectrum stuff, so the less I have to "clean" the better (as I understand, cleaning decreases yield and removes other active alks. -> Plz correct me if I'm wrong...)
Thanks folks in advance for the help!
Attachments
Spaced Out 2
Rising Star
duku2012 said:
As jees mentioned you can shake vigorously and sometimes not get an emulsion, but I personally have had an emulsion from doing that. It was because of the fats and oils that the naphtha soaked up during the pulls of the base layer. It was hard to break that stuff up because of that nasty fat layer, or whatever it is, its just nasty and sticks to whatever you use to break it up.
Most of it if not all will transfer to the acidic solution, if you are unsure you can make another pull using more acidic solution and then combine and proceed from there.
Spaced Out 2
Rising Star
Phagopsytosis said:
Very hard to tell with the pic quality but looks a lot like a fat layer, I'm pretty sure if it was DMT it would've dissolved in the warm solvents.
Phagopsytosis - 20ml isn't a lot of solvent to be using for an extraction, it looks like a layer of crystals is precipitating out of your naphtha because its already saturated. Try adding a larger amount, when I encountered a similar problem I heated 100ml to near boiling and it got rid of a similar layer of crystals that formed on top of the mhrb soup, though from the picture it is hard to tell what it is exactly.
Grasshoppa
Do to others as you would have them do to you.
Swim has this problem.. Swim uses the Cyb tek a/b but when the pulls are done and collected in Mason Jars swim notices that while one container forms crystals other dmt rich containers just leave a white snow flake residue inside. It is 100% dmt but it doesn't realy crystalize at this sides. I added a picture hope some one can help.
2nd pull
3rd pull
Phagopsytosis
Rising Star
Spaced Out 2 said:
Never has SWIM encountered a fat layer like that with MHRB... Sorry bout the pic btw. ...lame camera phone. Anyway, SWIM's going to try adding a bit more hot NPS and see if it re'xs.. If it doesn't re'x then he'll go with the assumption that it's a fatty layer.
SWIM's always wondered what the logic is behind adding hot solvent... Once the whole process of mix/settle/mix/settle/mix/settle occurs (which takes about 20 mins, if you're gentle enough to not create emulsion) the solvent temp has surely EQ'd with the MHRB/base mix... Can anyone comment? Is SWIM spending way too much time mixing/settling the layers between pulling?
From SWIM's understanding, the DMT in the solvent just gets reabsorbed by the base layer once the solvent temp EQ's with the base?
Miracle Rogue
Rising Star
Hi all. First time posting. I'm interested in DMT, I've been reading since some days about extraction teks. After reading a few times a specific tek it's somewhat clear, though I'm an absolute freshling to this stuff. I took a look at the Lazyman's tek, it looks simple by now compared to other teks. So many teks suggest VM&P Naphtha which seems pretty hard to find. I was wondering if there could be a replacement for it? So I looked into it. Seems like heptane and dcm were considered among the best replacements, toulene and xylene and a few others were brought up too, but there was no definite answer. Can anyone say for certain which one would be fine as a replacement for the Lazyman's tek?
Hello, I made a thread when I probably should have posted here first. Anyway enjoy the copypasta...
Hello. First off, I want to show my appreciation of this site and its members. I feel important things are being done here.
Anyway, I have made extractions that I then freeze-precip/evap'd to obtain crystals that have failed testing. I can only speculate as to why I'm receiving negative results because I have done everything to the "T". I paused to avoid further failure and waste of crystals, after months of researching I have now made another extraction. The extracted naphtha is now sitting in a hot water bath. I am prepared to do a sodium carbonate wash as well as this is something I have never done before. Always before immediately after extraction I went to freeze-precip, to drying, then to testing with negative results. Help is much needed and will be eternally appreciated as it is a strong desire to produce quality product at this time. Thanks in advance!
Hello. First off, I want to show my appreciation of this site and its members. I feel important things are being done here.
Anyway, I have made extractions that I then freeze-precip/evap'd to obtain crystals that have failed testing. I can only speculate as to why I'm receiving negative results because I have done everything to the "T". I paused to avoid further failure and waste of crystals, after months of researching I have now made another extraction. The extracted naphtha is now sitting in a hot water bath. I am prepared to do a sodium carbonate wash as well as this is something I have never done before. Always before immediately after extraction I went to freeze-precip, to drying, then to testing with negative results. Help is much needed and will be eternally appreciated as it is a strong desire to produce quality product at this time. Thanks in advance!
Jsummerr
Rising Star
I have a question related to an A/B extraction that I'm having a difficult time at finding an answer.
At this point, I believe I've researched enough to understand the basic idea behind the entire process. But after watching dozens of videos on the basics of chemistry and extraction, I noticed the process of applying heat wasn't ever used (at least not in any of the lessons I watched). So if someone was wanting to attempt an A/B extraction using Phalaris Aquatica, what would be the purpose of actually heating the acid solution?
And referencing a paragraph from the Wikipedia article on DMT, would heat actually have a counter-effect on the desired end result? ("DMT is commonly handled and stored as a fumarate, as other DMT acid salts are extremely hygroscopic and will not readily crystallize. Its freebase form, although less stable than DMT fumarate, is favored by recreational users choosing to vaporize the chemical as it has a lower boiling point. In contrast to DMT's base, its salts are water-soluble. DMT in solution degrades relatively quickly and should be stored protected from air, light, and heat in a freezer.")
en.wikipedia.org
Any input would be appreciated!
At this point, I believe I've researched enough to understand the basic idea behind the entire process. But after watching dozens of videos on the basics of chemistry and extraction, I noticed the process of applying heat wasn't ever used (at least not in any of the lessons I watched). So if someone was wanting to attempt an A/B extraction using Phalaris Aquatica, what would be the purpose of actually heating the acid solution?
And referencing a paragraph from the Wikipedia article on DMT, would heat actually have a counter-effect on the desired end result? ("DMT is commonly handled and stored as a fumarate, as other DMT acid salts are extremely hygroscopic and will not readily crystallize. Its freebase form, although less stable than DMT fumarate, is favored by recreational users choosing to vaporize the chemical as it has a lower boiling point. In contrast to DMT's base, its salts are water-soluble. DMT in solution degrades relatively quickly and should be stored protected from air, light, and heat in a freezer.")
N,N-Dimethyltryptamine - Wikipedia
Any input would be appreciated!
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Sodium fumarate is not very soluble, especially in solutions containing a lot of sodium ions already.2headsARE1 said:
sendokon
Rising Star
Doing earthwalkers tek, atm at base stage, noticed theres a layer acrb powder then a white foamish layer then purple bubbles on top. The soup wasnt shaken or anything just turned gently for the whole process. Done cybs twice but didnt have this problem. added a bit more lye. It took some of it out. Anything i should do before adding naptha and doin pulls?
Nevermind, after the naptha was added it went away. Thanks anyone who read this.
Nevermind, after the naptha was added it went away. Thanks anyone who read this.
Attachments
Hello everyone,
I want to perform Cyb's salt extraction of 100g MHRB, though the guide is written for 50g. As I read in another Cyb's tek (Max-ion), he wrote: "note: Do not just double the ratios per ratio of bark". So which ratios I have to use? I'm confused. Most of teks are for 50g.
The second thing that confuses me too is that I bought naphtha in plastic PET "1" bottles. Is this safe to use naphtha from such bottles?
Also is there a big difference between de-ionized and distilled water?
Thanks,
Wish great day all of you
I want to perform Cyb's salt extraction of 100g MHRB, though the guide is written for 50g. As I read in another Cyb's tek (Max-ion), he wrote: "note: Do not just double the ratios per ratio of bark". So which ratios I have to use? I'm confused. Most of teks are for 50g.
The second thing that confuses me too is that I bought naphtha in plastic PET "1" bottles. Is this safe to use naphtha from such bottles?
Also is there a big difference between de-ionized and distilled water?
Thanks,
Wish great day all of you
melotikaci
Rising Star
If you are concerned regarding ratios, devide your MHRB into two 50gr parts and do two extractionspatryk said:Hello everyone,
I want to perform Cyb's salt extraction of 100g MHRB, though the guide is written for 50g. As I read in another Cyb's tek (Max-ion), he wrote: "note: Do not just double the ratios per ratio of bark". So which ratios I have to use? I'm confused. Most of teks are for 50g.
The second thing that confuses me too is that I bought naphtha in plastic PET "1" bottles. Is this safe to use naphtha from such bottles?
Also is there a big difference between de-ionized and distilled water?
Thanks,
Wish great day all of you
Don't know about plastic bottle, I think it would be fine. But to make sure pour a little amount on a plate or glass and evaporate it, see if leaves some stuff there, if not you are safe to use it.
distilled water is de-ionized.
Hkz0r
Rising Star
I think Melo pretty much summed it all up for you.
Some NPS come in plastic containers like ronsonol for example. Pretty sure if they're shipping product like that in a plastic bottle, more than likely it's completely safe. If you're still not happy with that idea you can always get yourself some glass jars with air tight lids and store the naphtha in those.
If you're gonna extract from 100g I would always recommend doing separate batches. If anything were to go wrong with one you would always have a back up. Having 2 you could also play around a bit with the tek to see if it changes the yield at all. Imo there's more benefits to doing 2x 50g than 1x 100g extractions. It's not as if time is going to be an issue. There's plenty of wait time in between steps that you could use to work on the other 50g.
Good luck and be safe!
Some NPS come in plastic containers like ronsonol for example. Pretty sure if they're shipping product like that in a plastic bottle, more than likely it's completely safe. If you're still not happy with that idea you can always get yourself some glass jars with air tight lids and store the naphtha in those.
If you're gonna extract from 100g I would always recommend doing separate batches. If anything were to go wrong with one you would always have a back up. Having 2 you could also play around a bit with the tek to see if it changes the yield at all. Imo there's more benefits to doing 2x 50g than 1x 100g extractions. It's not as if time is going to be an issue. There's plenty of wait time in between steps that you could use to work on the other 50g.
Good luck and be safe!
