psilocybin
Rising Star
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ElevatorAlley
Rising Star
Hi guys, I'm working on my first extraction, which I thought would be pretty easy, but I'm not seeing the results I would expect. Here's what I've been doing so far.
I'm working with Powdered Pink Brazilian MHRB. I tested a sample of bark with Ehrlich's reagent, and the test was unequivocally positive, so I know the bark is active. (I used Marquis' reagent as a control to ensure that the coloration was not merely from the bark itself.)
Trying to start with the simplest procedure before getting into more involved processes, I used the "no boil" procedure from this thread by anrchy, with 50g of bark. I used a solution of citric acid instead of vinegar. (I know it's recommended not to deviate from these directions at all until having a good handle on things, so if necessary I'll walk it back to a more literal interpretation, but personally I'd prefer to use citric rather than acetic if I can.)
I acidified for an hour, then basified with pickling lime until it had the consistency of oatmeal and let sit another hour. (Possibly I should wait much longer for the base conversion to take place? The bark is still sitting.) I stirred occasionally, and the mixture developed the dark coating I've seen described, so the pH seems correct. I let sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Finally I did two washes with pure d-limonene, stirring periodically for 20 minutes each.
I transfered the limonene to a small glass container and attempted to use FASI to precipitate. (The IPA was dried with anhydrous epsom salts prepared according to directions elsewhere. -- is there any good way to know how much salt to use, or verify that the IPA is completely dried?) When adding dropwise, very little clouding occurs. When adding a full dropper at once, there is clouding, but the same clouding occurs when adding FASI to pure limonene. For a while, there was a foggy top layer in the limonene, but over time that cleared up. I added about 5 ml of FASI in total, wanting to see if something precipitates at all before I use up all my FASI. Since then, I left the limonene alone. It has been about 12 hours, and the limonene is completely transparent, and there is no precipitation of any substance whatsoever.
Any thoughts? Is there anything I'm obviously doing wrong here? If the answer is just "you're changing too many things, don't deviate from the tek," I'll walk it back to long vinegar boils, etc. and do the Q21Q21 tek more literally. However, if I'm messing up something fundamental that could still cause problems, I'd like to correct it.
Thanks for all the great resources! (And please excuse me if anything here is easily answerable -- I did lots of searching and digging through random threads to answer various misc questions, like -- is it normal for my magnesium sulfate to turn into a big rock, and a variety of other things, but I feel like I have hit a wall here.)
I'm working with Powdered Pink Brazilian MHRB. I tested a sample of bark with Ehrlich's reagent, and the test was unequivocally positive, so I know the bark is active. (I used Marquis' reagent as a control to ensure that the coloration was not merely from the bark itself.)
Trying to start with the simplest procedure before getting into more involved processes, I used the "no boil" procedure from this thread by anrchy, with 50g of bark. I used a solution of citric acid instead of vinegar. (I know it's recommended not to deviate from these directions at all until having a good handle on things, so if necessary I'll walk it back to a more literal interpretation, but personally I'd prefer to use citric rather than acetic if I can.)
I acidified for an hour, then basified with pickling lime until it had the consistency of oatmeal and let sit another hour. (Possibly I should wait much longer for the base conversion to take place? The bark is still sitting.) I stirred occasionally, and the mixture developed the dark coating I've seen described, so the pH seems correct. I let sit for about an hour, stirring periodically.
Finally I did two washes with pure d-limonene, stirring periodically for 20 minutes each.
I transfered the limonene to a small glass container and attempted to use FASI to precipitate. (The IPA was dried with anhydrous epsom salts prepared according to directions elsewhere. -- is there any good way to know how much salt to use, or verify that the IPA is completely dried?) When adding dropwise, very little clouding occurs. When adding a full dropper at once, there is clouding, but the same clouding occurs when adding FASI to pure limonene. For a while, there was a foggy top layer in the limonene, but over time that cleared up. I added about 5 ml of FASI in total, wanting to see if something precipitates at all before I use up all my FASI. Since then, I left the limonene alone. It has been about 12 hours, and the limonene is completely transparent, and there is no precipitation of any substance whatsoever.
Any thoughts? Is there anything I'm obviously doing wrong here? If the answer is just "you're changing too many things, don't deviate from the tek," I'll walk it back to long vinegar boils, etc. and do the Q21Q21 tek more literally. However, if I'm messing up something fundamental that could still cause problems, I'd like to correct it.
Thanks for all the great resources! (And please excuse me if anything here is easily answerable -- I did lots of searching and digging through random threads to answer various misc questions, like -- is it normal for my magnesium sulfate to turn into a big rock, and a variety of other things, but I feel like I have hit a wall here.)
TGO
Music is alive and in your soul. It can move you.
patryk said:
ACRB TEK 100g "PICS" (Newbie Friendly)
^^^
This tek is Cyb's salt tek but written for 100g ACRB. Since you are using MHRB you won't have to do the "clean up" steps, you can go straight to pre-evap, then freeze precipitation.
DoorSeeker
Rising Star
patryk said:Hello everyone,
I want to perform Cyb's salt extraction of 100g MHRB, though the guide is written for 50g. As I read in another Cyb's tek (Max-ion), he wrote: "note: Do not just double the ratios per ratio of bark". So which ratios I have to use? I'm confused. Most of teks are for 50g.
The second thing that confuses me too is that I bought naphtha in plastic PET "1" bottles. Is this safe to use naphtha from such bottles?
Also is there a big difference between de-ionized and distilled water?
Thanks,
Wish great day all of you
I noticed this comment on not just doubling the ratios in his tek too. I would be very curious to know what exactly the change should be and why. I did 200g and just quadrupled the ratio and got north of 2% yield. I don't really see in theory what the issue would be with proportionally increasing ratios.
I believe for the purposes of extraction you can use either distilled or de-ionized water. De-ionized water is very expensive though so just get distilled.
werver
Rising Star
I've tried to follow this FASA extraction for 50g MHRB and made four pulls with 100ml citric acid (powder) saturated acetone. Actually three pulls with 100ml and one with 100g Acetone (79g=100ml) still each with 5g of citric acid. Wound up with very low yields. For a first extraction that doesn't come as a surprise. I guess this tek isn't very beginner friendly, but I couldn't resist the elegance.
I took my time with every step that needs time I believe.
Could be I didn't do the anhydration part properly enough. Or the citration as mentioned above.
Of course I didn't throw anything away.
Other thoughts on what could have gone wrong?
Is there a way to increase speed on the DMT fumarate precipitation (cold/warmth)?
Can I use CaCO3 for the freebasing step instead of lye?
I took my time with every step that needs time I believe.
Could be I didn't do the anhydration part properly enough. Or the citration as mentioned above.
Of course I didn't throw anything away.
Other thoughts on what could have gone wrong?
Is there a way to increase speed on the DMT fumarate precipitation (cold/warmth)?
Can I use CaCO3 for the freebasing step instead of lye?
Tryptallmine
Rising Star
Hey all, been a long time since I've posted or extracted..
Making a nice batch of spice from 100g ACRB at the moment, and was given some AR grade toluene which I'm using to pull, so far it looks really good. Nice depth of color.
Usually when I use naphtha I'll back salt it to clean it up (A/B). Is it necessary for good crystallization with toluene? I know it's going to need to be evaporated as DMT is freely soluble in toluene at a wide temperature range.
I'll answer my own questions.
Yes, it is necessary. Evaporated 40ml of non cleaned solvent to a very active syrup - sweet baby jesus was that interesting. Cleaned the rest up in an A/B and going to pull again with toluene.
The other thought was, has anyone used an oxidizer to remove plant oils and discoloration? I was considering slowly dropping 15-20 ml of 5% solution of KmNO4 through it on a magnetic stirrer? Just as happy to back salt it though. - looks like this has been raised before. Doing some reading.
"Downwardsfromzero - Do not mix your spice with KMnO4. You will totally destroy it."
Making a nice batch of spice from 100g ACRB at the moment, and was given some AR grade toluene which I'm using to pull, so far it looks really good. Nice depth of color.
Usually when I use naphtha I'll back salt it to clean it up (A/B). Is it necessary for good crystallization with toluene? I know it's going to need to be evaporated as DMT is freely soluble in toluene at a wide temperature range.
I'll answer my own questions.
Yes, it is necessary. Evaporated 40ml of non cleaned solvent to a very active syrup - sweet baby jesus was that interesting. Cleaned the rest up in an A/B and going to pull again with toluene.
The other thought was, has anyone used an oxidizer to remove plant oils and discoloration? I was considering slowly dropping 15-20 ml of 5% solution of KmNO4 through it on a magnetic stirrer? Just as happy to back salt it though. - looks like this has been raised before. Doing some reading.
"Downwardsfromzero - Do not mix your spice with KMnO4. You will totally destroy it."
Tryptallmine
Rising Star
DoorSeeker said:patryk said:Hello everyone,
I want to perform Cyb's salt extraction of 100g MHRB, though the guide is written for 50g. As I read in another Cyb's tek (Max-ion), he wrote: "note: Do not just double the ratios per ratio of bark". So which ratios I have to use? I'm confused. Most of teks are for 50g.
The second thing that confuses me too is that I bought naphtha in plastic PET "1" bottles. Is this safe to use naphtha from such bottles?
Also is there a big difference between de-ionized and distilled water?
Thanks,
Wish great day all of you
I noticed this comment on not just doubling the ratios in his tek too. I would be very curious to know what exactly the change should be and why. I did 200g and just quadrupled the ratio and got north of 2% yield. I don't really see in theory what the issue would be with proportionally increasing ratios.
I believe for the purposes of extraction you can use either distilled or de-ionized water. De-ionized water is very expensive though so just get distilled.
You can comfortably extract 200g in a 2lt bottle. - I'd mix about 500-600ml of water with 20ml of HCl, then add in the 200g of bark. If its not liquid and free flowing add another 100ml of water and then check the pH ~2-2.5. Drop it in a heat bath ~40c after that. I've done it a few times in the past with no problems.
hello guys i'm new with the dmt i have a bit of experience with other psychadelics. So i made a batch of dmt i made it from mhrb 100g with 50g of lie and 75 ml of naphta put it in a hot water for 24 hours shaking it once in a while and i got the naphta out of the jar and put it in the freezer for 24 hours it is a good yeld but it smells a bit like lye i think, is it ok to smoke like this? i wanted to try it out i got like 1 little toke and i felt a very lie like taste so i exhaled it fast is it normal? or am i poisoning myself? i told you i don't have any background with dmt, never seen dmt, never smelled dmt, never tasted dmt before don't know anyone personal that had dmt before
Psychedelic Energy
Rising Star
psyro said:hello guys i'm new with the dmt i have a bit of experience with other psychadelics. So i made a batch of dmt i made it from mhrb 100g with 50g of lie and 75 ml of naphta put it in a hot water for 24 hours shaking it once in a while and i got the naphta out of the jar and put it in the freezer for 24 hours it is a good yeld but it smells a bit like lye i think, is it ok to smoke like this? i wanted to try it out i got like 1 little toke and i felt a very lie like taste so i exhaled it fast is it normal? or am i poisoning myself? i told you i don't have any background with dmt, never seen dmt, never smelled dmt, never tasted dmt before don't know anyone personal that had dmt before
Hey mate, you shouldn't have any lye in your dmt if you were careful not pull any of the basic soup mix with your naphtha. I would do a sodium carbonate wash after pulling, but you can redissolve th dmt in naphtha, mix a pinch of sodium carbonate with water, mix the two together and separate. You should check out the FAQ FAQ - DMT Frequently Asked Questions and Troubleshooting Guide - DMT-Nexus Wiki
Psychedelic Energy
Rising Star
psyro said:hello guys i'm new with the dmt i have a bit of experience with other psychadelics. So i made a batch of dmt i made it from mhrb 100g with 50g of lie and 75 ml of naphta put it in a hot water for 24 hours shaking it once in a while and i got the naphta out of the jar and put it in the freezer for 24 hours it is a good yeld but it smells a bit like lye i think, is it ok to smoke like this? i wanted to try it out i got like 1 little toke and i felt a very lie like taste so i exhaled it fast is it normal? or am i poisoning myself? i told you i don't have any background with dmt, never seen dmt, never smelled dmt, never tasted dmt before don't know anyone personal that had dmt before
Also how are you smoking/vaping it? Smoked dmt can be quite a harsh taste, especially if the flame touches the dmt. The glass vapor genie seems to be the most preferred method, just smooth vapor.
Spaced Out 2
Rising Star
I'm usually closer to the pH 2, I have great results in the 2-3 range. But usually best to stick with what the tek calls for though.
JefFlux
Rising Star
Thanks Spaced Out,
After a few years of working with different Acacia teks, have pretty much formulated my own now entitled 'The Invocacia Method' which is giving reliable results. Credit must of course go to ElfSpice though for the first successful result... and the rest is adapted from there.
Usually shoot for 3.5 but went for 3 this time to see what the difference will be. I've read and heard it said that Australian Acacias do not like too much heat (hence a very low simmer is kept at all stages) which certainly seems to be the case from much trial and error ...though I'm sure I recall nen mentioning that this may be the case for acids as well.
Given the many variables at play, yet to experiment with adding salt at the basified tea phase to see if this increases yield. But with a best yield of 2.3 percent without it, curious to see what it can add.
cheers
After a few years of working with different Acacia teks, have pretty much formulated my own now entitled 'The Invocacia Method' which is giving reliable results. Credit must of course go to ElfSpice though for the first successful result... and the rest is adapted from there.
Usually shoot for 3.5 but went for 3 this time to see what the difference will be. I've read and heard it said that Australian Acacias do not like too much heat (hence a very low simmer is kept at all stages) which certainly seems to be the case from much trial and error ...though I'm sure I recall nen mentioning that this may be the case for acids as well.
Given the many variables at play, yet to experiment with adding salt at the basified tea phase to see if this increases yield. But with a best yield of 2.3 percent without it, curious to see what it can add.
cheers
JefFlux
Rising Star
Also I've noticed how heat alters the Ph reading, i.e As temperature rises, molecular vibrations increase resulting in the pH dropping. For this reason, measuring the basified tea at room temperature should giver a more accurate reading no ? Used to use the warmth from the sodium reaction to heat the shellite as it mixes, but thinking that keeping the tea cold and adding warm shellite may yield better transfer of the molecule.
* Even with a pH of 12.5-13 the tea does not turn black and remains a dark brown colour...should it always turn black or is this indicative of not enough base even thought he meter reads correct ?
* Is there any correlation between too much base and plant oils carrying across with the pull ?
* Would adding egg white prior to basing help to remove plant oils/tannins such as is done in ayahuasca brews?
any thoughts? muy apreciado amigos
* Even with a pH of 12.5-13 the tea does not turn black and remains a dark brown colour...should it always turn black or is this indicative of not enough base even thought he meter reads correct ?
* Is there any correlation between too much base and plant oils carrying across with the pull ?
* Would adding egg white prior to basing help to remove plant oils/tannins such as is done in ayahuasca brews?
any thoughts? muy apreciado amigos
Hello, i want to do cyb's max ion tek using shredded mhrb, i will not blend it, i will just cut in small pieces with scissors. After the acid cook, should i keep the mhrb inside the soup and basify it or is better to take it outside and use in anothers extractions??
CannabisAR
Rising Star
Does anyone know if acetone can be used to separate fats that have crystal. My first ever batch has yielded a lot of fat and I assume DMT as well. I used a tek from the sight. that uses.
Acacia + Lime + Vinegar + Naphtha. Its been 14 hours since I put the liquid in the freezer. and I see a lot of white but some of it is plant fat I assume.
Acacia + Lime + Vinegar + Naphtha. Its been 14 hours since I put the liquid in the freezer. and I see a lot of white but some of it is plant fat I assume.
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
JefFlux
Rising Star
Just 'bumping' my earlier questions regarding ph and heat.
* Is it better to measure the pH of basified tea at room temperature or while still warm from the boil and/or thermal reaction of NaOH dissolving?
* Is it normal for tea to not turn entirely black i.e remaining a dark brown colour despite a pH of 12.5 - 13
* What is the potential correlation between too much heat and/or base - and plant oils coming through with the pull ?
* Would adding egg white prior to basing help to defat or remove plant oils/tannins such as is done in ayahuasca brews?
* Is it better to measure the pH of basified tea at room temperature or while still warm from the boil and/or thermal reaction of NaOH dissolving?
* Is it normal for tea to not turn entirely black i.e remaining a dark brown colour despite a pH of 12.5 - 13
* What is the potential correlation between too much heat and/or base - and plant oils coming through with the pull ?
* Would adding egg white prior to basing help to defat or remove plant oils/tannins such as is done in ayahuasca brews?
JefFlux
Rising Star
so encountered the first problem with shellite not separating (at all) ..perhaps due to reducing 600g of plant matter down to 2 litres of water -and/or perhaps a little too much agitation. But perhaps the real problem was adding too much NaOh thus turning the fats in the basified tea to soap ...resulting from aiming for a 12.5 reading while the tea was cold (hence previous questions in this thread)
Anyway, thanks to the great info here at the nexus, the tea was split into 2 jars and add more water plus added salt to one of the 2 litre jars. After letting sit for 48 hours, crystals are clearly form between the two layers. The first 2 images are with the salt and the last without salt added revealing a notably different crystal shape...also the solvent pulls are fluorescent green !
[Edit] - the yellow-green colouration could well be from a dozen or so freeze/thaws on the phyllodes
Anyway, thanks to the great info here at the nexus, the tea was split into 2 jars and add more water plus added salt to one of the 2 litre jars. After letting sit for 48 hours, crystals are clearly form between the two layers. The first 2 images are with the salt and the last without salt added revealing a notably different crystal shape...also the solvent pulls are fluorescent green !
[Edit] - the yellow-green colouration could well be from a dozen or so freeze/thaws on the phyllodes
