psilocybin
Rising Star
Any questions or problems you may run into during an extraction can be asked to get other members input in this thread.
-
Members of the previous forum can retrieve their temporary password here, (login and check your PM).
official extraction help thread
- Thread starter psilocybin
- Start date
-
- Tags
- dmt
JefFlux
Rising Star
Thanks null24 & Drowning Man
- working with Acacia phyllodes has led me to the stirring method as it is re-assuring to be able to visually monitor the two layers, as it is knowing that other people get equally good results from stirring instead of rolling agitation.
Browsing for a magnetic stirrer atm, and some also act as heat plates as well... a perfect two birds right there ! It seems that 2 litres is about the maximum stirring capacity for the cheaper ones, but again this is pretty much spot on for the usual 100-300g extractions.
It also seems that when working with acacia phyllodes, maintaining non-viscosity is the key to avoiding emulsions if not reducing an oily end product, as is keeping the temperature low. Good to see downwardsfromzero noting that
Can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the acid boil phase of an A/B (80-90 degrees Celsius)? and an optimum temperature to maintain a heat bath at... we have a little thermometer at home for the milk-frother on our new coffee machine so gonna try this out as a way of monitoring temperature for the next lot of 'acacia soap'.
cheers all
- working with Acacia phyllodes has led me to the stirring method as it is re-assuring to be able to visually monitor the two layers, as it is knowing that other people get equally good results from stirring instead of rolling agitation.
Browsing for a magnetic stirrer atm, and some also act as heat plates as well... a perfect two birds right there ! It seems that 2 litres is about the maximum stirring capacity for the cheaper ones, but again this is pretty much spot on for the usual 100-300g extractions.
It also seems that when working with acacia phyllodes, maintaining non-viscosity is the key to avoiding emulsions if not reducing an oily end product, as is keeping the temperature low. Good to see downwardsfromzero noting that
and I think when it comes to acacia phyllodes this becomes a matter of quantity vs quality (even though we all know there is nothing lacking in the quality of full-spectrum goo!).
Can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the acid boil phase of an A/B (80-90 degrees Celsius)? and an optimum temperature to maintain a heat bath at... we have a little thermometer at home for the milk-frother on our new coffee machine so gonna try this out as a way of monitoring temperature for the next lot of 'acacia soap'.
cheers all
This is still unsafe.Drowning-man said:
Imagine what if the container with flammable solvent breaks, spilling its contents into the crock pot? hot or even boiling flammable solvent, or its hot vapors could easily escape the pot and might come into contact with the flames or red hot heating element of the stove.
That is why I wrote about using a pre-heated hot water bath, with any flames or other hot ignition point removed far away from the flammable solvent.
Accidents do happen once in a while. It is important to be prepared in advance, so you can prevent an accident from turning into a catastrophe.
swimer
Rising Star
JefFlux said:Can anyone suggest an optimum temperature for the acid boil phase of an A/B (80-90 degrees Celsius)? and an optimum temperature to maintain a heat bath at... we have a little thermometer at home for the milk-frother on our new coffee machine so gonna try this out as a way of monitoring temperature for the next lot of 'acacia soap'.
cheers all
I read on this forum that for cybs tek woth MHRB it's good to have 55c dropping to 40 and reheat. More than that will give you more plant material. Still im just a noob saying what someone said so can be dramatically wrong. Also wondering what's wrong with overheating and having more plant material. At the end still swim will REX it so will be left with just more of product. hmm
Edit: Swim has to say that he hit almost 2% with 6 pulls and now is sitting on clear snow flakes which dont even need to be rexed! After he finish making diy magnetic stirrer he will try to take some more of it. So much greatfull to Cyb for making this tek and Nexians for help!
Drowning-man
Rising Star
Ok, so maybe a double boiler/strainer set up? Preheat water as you stater ans when NP gets to temp you can pull the incert out leaving water. Dont want to fidle with a hot beacer.pitubo said:
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
It might be worth a try.loph said:
You could include a link to the method you're describing because I, for one, don't fancy searching for it.
(loph, what happened to all your other posts? They appear to have been deleted...)
downwardsfromzero said:
I am new to the forums, if someone goes by this name I will try to change it!
As for the teks:
Jorkest's D-Limonene and Fumaric Acid Approach - DMT-Nexus Wiki
BLAB - The Big Leisurely A/B - DMT-Nexus Wiki
I am using somewhat of a hybrid of these two pretty similar teks. What I would like to incorporate is ChemisTryptaMan's idea of using salt, adopted by cyb for his Max ion/ salt hybrid teks.
Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
It would seem like it should be helpful to use NaCl for jorkest's teks in order to pull the dmt faster with limo.
Best regards
relaxtrading
Rising Star
Hello everyone
I am posting here because i have not other place, and I need help.
I am doing my 3rd project and I am having problems with the first part.
I used
distilled water
vinegar
salt
caustic soda
wiki.dmt-nexus.me
This time when I put the nafta , it doesn't mix with the liquid just stay in the top. It should first mix and after some time should go to the top, isn't ?
What I can do ?
Thanks
I am posting here because i have not other place, and I need help.
I am doing my 3rd project and I am having problems with the first part.
I used
distilled water
vinegar
salt
caustic soda
Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
This time when I put the nafta , it doesn't mix with the liquid just stay in the top. It should first mix and after some time should go to the top, isn't ?
What I can do ?
Thanks
hello there!relaxtrading said:Hello everyone
I am posting here because i have not other place, and I need help.
I am doing my 3rd project and I am having problems with the first part.
I used
distilled water
vinegar
salt
caustic soda
Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
This time when I put the nafta , it doesn't mix with the liquid just stay in the top. It should first mix and after some time should go to the top, isn't ?
What I can do ?
Thanks
yeah it's not supposed to mix, you need to shake it gently or stir/swirl it around for some time so DMT is transferred from base soup to naphtha, and then you let it sit and separate wekll for around 15 mins and then pull out the naphtha.
what kind of extraction container are you using?
relaxtrading
Rising Star
Hi
I am using a bottle now.
I added more distilled water+soda caustic and now it mix better so it seems that the problem is solved.
I just pulled my third one, and tomorrow I'll do two more. It's looks good now
Thanks for your help !
I am using a bottle now.
I added more distilled water+soda caustic and now it mix better so it seems that the problem is solved.
I just pulled my third one, and tomorrow I'll do two more. It's looks good now
Thanks for your help !
I tried to perform an extraction by mixing washing soda with MHRB powder and then adding isopropyl alcohol, and the whole mixture just turned into this greenish-black sludge, and I had to throw away everything.
It was a whole pound of MHRB powder, completely wasted.
I don't know what I did wrong, because I read that this is a valid technique for the extraction of DMT.
Why did it turn out like this?
Thanks
It was a whole pound of MHRB powder, completely wasted.
I don't know what I did wrong, because I read that this is a valid technique for the extraction of DMT.
Why did it turn out like this?
Thanks
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
First rule of extraction: never throw anything away until you're sure you've finished. Your situation was eminently salvageable, I'm sorry to say. Next time it would be a good idea to follow an established technique carefully.protostar said:
You haven't really said much about what you did, just the materials you used, so it's not really possible to say what 'went wrong'. More details please.
I mixed an even amount of washing soda with MHRB powder in a large bowl, then put the mixture into a large glass jar, then covered it with 91% isopropyl alcohol and shook it vigorously, and then put it aside to sit for a while.
An hour later I shook it very well again, and then put it aside again. Another hour passed and I shook it again, but at this point the mixture had become a thick slurry, or dark greenish-black sludge, and the alcohol in the jar had turned gray.
I immediately recognized that I completely botched this extraction attempt, and so flushed everything down the toilet.
But you say it was still salvageable, how could that be possible?
An hour later I shook it very well again, and then put it aside again. Another hour passed and I shook it again, but at this point the mixture had become a thick slurry, or dark greenish-black sludge, and the alcohol in the jar had turned gray.
I immediately recognized that I completely botched this extraction attempt, and so flushed everything down the toilet.
But you say it was still salvageable, how could that be possible?
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Well, for a start you can always leave everything to evaporate and start over.
It looks like you wanted a fast and easy short cut to getting the product. What you've said here seems to be that you mixed bark powder with dry washing soda? Were you following any instructions from anywhere? Then you jumped to a conclusion without even checking what had been pulled by the alcohol. You had your IPA extract and didn't check to see what had been pulled... :?
Have you read this thread yet?
Isopropanol substitutes for ethanol and has the advantage of being nearly immiscible with strong salt solutions (including sodium carbonate).
Read the forum and the wiki until you've got a better grasp of the principles of extraction, then you'll be ready to move forward.
It looks like you wanted a fast and easy short cut to getting the product. What you've said here seems to be that you mixed bark powder with dry washing soda? Were you following any instructions from anywhere? Then you jumped to a conclusion without even checking what had been pulled by the alcohol. You had your IPA extract and didn't check to see what had been pulled... :?
Have you read this thread yet?
Isopropanol substitutes for ethanol and has the advantage of being nearly immiscible with strong salt solutions (including sodium carbonate).
Read the forum and the wiki until you've got a better grasp of the principles of extraction, then you'll be ready to move forward.
relaxtrading
Rising Star
Hello
I'm working on another project that is to do a TA extraction from iboga root powder. Can I use the same method as I used for dmt ? Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
I'm working on another project that is to do a TA extraction from iboga root powder. Can I use the same method as I used for dmt ? Cybs' Hybrid ATB 'Salt' Tek - DMT-Nexus Wiki
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
No. Iboga TA can be precipitated as freebase by adding base to an acidic solution extracted from the root. Have a look in the Iboga subforum.
There's a thread stickied there.
There's a thread stickied there.
Four_Statues
Rising Star
First extraction of 50g MHRB was going well, followed to a T. Then it came to first pull (11ish hours in base) with naphtha. I added in a splash for 1:1 ratio so around 50ml while in hot water bath. Barely enough to stir in goo so added a bit more, and more, and more....completely over did it with naphtha! Still I went ahead with freeze precipitation and as all you vets im sure know... no crystals 12 hours later. I have now transfered the naphtha to two more trays to enhance surface area for evaporation. Anything else I can do? Going to recombine them after up to 7 hours of available evaporation time before bed, cover, back in freezer. Then in morning check for crystals and if not just reuse for +24 hour pull on goo.
All slagging or tips/advice taken
All slagging or tips/advice taken
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Sodium carbonate or calcium hydroxide would be better. What were you planning on doing with the material once based? Snorting caustic soda, for example, would be a terrible idea.observe said: