psilocybin
Rising Star
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official extraction help thread
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Scatterday
Rising Star
Great information so far and I appreciate the help.
I've found a tek I like the sound of, In the thread the OP goes on to suggest if the solution was salted the end yield may be higher. From research this is because of the salt being soluble in water and forcing more alkaloids out if I'm not mistaken.
If I wanted to add a salting step to a tek I've found how would I add in that step to the tek before basifying?
Would it even be worth it because the OP seems to think so and I think it's worth a try. Is there a ratio for salt to solution I should be using?
I've found a tek I like the sound of, In the thread the OP goes on to suggest if the solution was salted the end yield may be higher. From research this is because of the salt being soluble in water and forcing more alkaloids out if I'm not mistaken.
If I wanted to add a salting step to a tek I've found how would I add in that step to the tek before basifying?
Would it even be worth it because the OP seems to think so and I think it's worth a try. Is there a ratio for salt to solution I should be using?
Scatterday said:
Max Ion Tek said:
One love
Scatterday
Rising Star
Voidmatrix said:
What does it mean by topped up to make a final amount, Does that mean starting with 70g of salt dissolved in 200ml of water, Topping up to 1l before adding to your soup because that seems like an awful lot of liquid to be adding.
To scale that up for more bark would 200g bark just be double that formula for water and salt?
You are just amazing also, Thankyou so much!
Dissolve your salt in 200ml, then pour into the soup, then top off with the other 800ml. At least that's my interpretation.
It's by volume so you wouldn't just double.
If I may, start with less starting material. There's a consensus around here about getting better percentage of yield with smaller extractions.
My soup usually ends up about 1.5L.
And thank you, just trying to lend a hand.
One love
It's by volume so you wouldn't just double.
If I may, start with less starting material. There's a consensus around here about getting better percentage of yield with smaller extractions.
My soup usually ends up about 1.5L.
And thank you, just trying to lend a hand.
One love
Scatterday
Rising Star
Voidmatrix said:Dissolve your salt in 200ml, then pour into the soup, then top off with the other 800ml. At least that's my interpretation.
It's by volume so you wouldn't just double.
If I may, start with less starting material. There's a consensus around here about getting better percentage of yield with smaller extractions.
My soup usually ends up about 1.5L.
And thank you, just trying to lend a hand.
One love
The tek I'm considering following talks about doing it on a bit of a bigger scale to avoid goo issues that was the only reason why I liked that one.
It isn't a large extraction just to clarify most would consider it pretty average.
The science behind everything interests me too, I've been able to find ph values for acid and base stages and also been able to find ratios for lye to water but haven't been able to find much on scaling up salt still.
Those teks that already have a salt step are already predictable, Exploring what only 1 other person has done with this tek just seemed interesting to me.
I hope that last bit makes sense and you can understand my curiosity.
There was another post here on the forums stating salting did not increase yields but many disagree and were saying on the second and third pulls they were averaging more so I wanted to do my own experiment.
Hm, interesting, as I feel like you may actually run into more goo than less with more starting material. For my own curiosity and education, could you share that tek?
So yours is about 100g? I've actually decided to scale down and do 50g for better results.
In the good ol salt debate, I am in the camp that it helps with an increase in ionic strength.
And yes your curiosity and the understanding you're going for makes total sense. That said, I think you'll find this thread helpful in further grounding your understanding.
One love
So yours is about 100g? I've actually decided to scale down and do 50g for better results.
In the good ol salt debate, I am in the camp that it helps with an increase in ionic strength.
Max Ion Tek said:
And yes your curiosity and the understanding you're going for makes total sense. That said, I think you'll find this thread helpful in further grounding your understanding.
One love
downwardsfromzero
Boundary condition
Max Ion Tek said:
I'd suggest diluting the concentrated salt solution to 1L before adding it to the acid soak would more resemble a standard procedure, and is my interpretation of the method.Voidmatrix said:
Because higher ionic strength is suspected of increasing the degree of aggregation of DMT molecules and the consequent goo formation, it may prove necessary to use warm naphtha in a tek with salt in order to maximise yields. DMT goo aggregates are only really soluble in fairly hot naphtha.
downwardsfromzero said:
Scatterday, I learn so much about chemistry from DF0, so I'd say add the salt the way he just described. On my next extraction I'm going to try that. I have done it that way before but don't recall a difference, so will pay more attention next time to see if there is any difference.
One love
Dirty T
Rising Star
My most recent attempt resulted in a 3% yield from Naphtha alone, I have not pulled with Xylene yet. I attribute it to using salt and heat from the beginning and "double pulls". I did 2 pulls per day for 4 days in a row so a total of 8 pulls. Each day the pulls were combined and placed in the freezer for 36 hours. 50 grams MHRB yielded 1.5 grams DMT. A variety of colors and textures were obtained from white crystals to brown goo but as I mix it with CBC the color and texture is of no real relevance to myself. In my experience the brown works the same as the white. I haven't bothered recrystallization as I don't ever get soup in my product by using multiple transfer vessels before the Pyrex dish. The first set produced bright white, second off white crystals, third yellow crystals and orange goo and finally fourth yellow crystals and brown goo. I believe 3% is unheard of in recent days, I've seen claims as far as 2.5% including my own but that was including Xylene pulls at the end and backsalting all solvents used, this time I have done none of that, only Naphtha pulls.
Scatterday
Rising Star
When adding salt to a step in a tek would it be best to add a saturated saline solution before or after you begin reducing your soup before basifying it?
For example a tek I'm reading through has 10l of acid soup that needs to be reduced to 2l. When should you add the saline?
Before or after reducing to 2l.
For example a tek I'm reading through has 10l of acid soup that needs to be reduced to 2l. When should you add the saline?
Before or after reducing to 2l.
Scatterday said:
Since you're trying to increase ionic strength by adding the saline solution, I'd think after reduction.
:surprised That's a lot to reduce :shock:
One love
Dirty T
Rising Star
I would also add the salt after reducing. I add salt at the time I add NPS. I agree 10L soup is a whole lot to reduce. Larger extractions are grossly inefficient as well not only in my experience but from what I've read from others as well. The bigger the extraction the more inefficient it gets. My first attempt ever was on 400g powdered bark and once I broke the horrific emulsion I created I eventually got 2g DMT or 0.5% total yield. As I stated my most recent attempt was 1.5g from 50g MHRB or 3% yield.
Hi All,
Proud to be a new member of this community!
I have a question regarding the famed Earthwalker tek using the laid out modifications from Bl1nd here: Increase yield for second attempt at ACRB Tek. - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
My question is after step 4, basifying.
Before the NPS pulls, is it possible to remove the powdered root bark from the vessel? Or is there any other time where this can be strained out with less effect on yield?
Proud to be a new member of this community!
I have a question regarding the famed Earthwalker tek using the laid out modifications from Bl1nd here: Increase yield for second attempt at ACRB Tek. - FAQ - All your basic questions and answers - Welcome to the DMT-Nexus
My question is after step 4, basifying.
Before the NPS pulls, is it possible to remove the powdered root bark from the vessel? Or is there any other time where this can be strained out with less effect on yield?
DMTryptamines
Tryp
Here's the thing, since whatever you strain out will be soaked with your DMT rich extraction liquid you are basically guaranteed to lose DMT. This is along with the possibility that cell lysing has not been completed but if you wait long enough on the base stage this won't be a problem.
2nd thing. Straining caustic liquid if not generally recommended just for safety reasons. If you're a novice I would advise against any deviations from the tek and just follow as described.
Why the ask anywho?
2nd thing. Straining caustic liquid if not generally recommended just for safety reasons. If you're a novice I would advise against any deviations from the tek and just follow as described.
Why the ask anywho?
Don't remove the bark. While the majority of alkaloids will break away from the cells of the plant matter, over time it will continue to release more. You will drastically limit your yield.
DMTrymptine also makes a good point about hazards of handling a caustic solution.
Patience is key.
One love
DMTrymptine also makes a good point about hazards of handling a caustic solution.
Patience is key.
One love
DMTryptamines said:
So basically I was thinking about this from an pull-efficiency perspectiv. Having purely liquid soup. I was thinking
A) reduces aeration and potentially redyces chance of emulsion
B) the mixture gets easier to stir etc i.e. with a hotplate/magnetic stir bar if there isn't sludge at the bottom... could give you closer to 'perfect' liquid liquid interfacing between the NPs and base soup
Aby thoughts? It does make sense that you would lose a bunch of the alkaloids that are nested in the sludge, but was thinking you could basically rehash the sludge a few times. Safety makes sense with straining the strong base as well
DMTryptamines
Tryp
scand1um said:
It could help with emulsions but if the tek is followed correctly it shouldn't be an issue as the bark will be broken down significantly. The best way to reduce aeration is by mixing it gently which is more than possible to do with the bark left in, with or without a mag stirrer.
scand1um said:
I could be easier to stir with but the tek you're using is 2L volume at 100g bark so not a very viscous mixture to begin with. I'm not sure how much it would really improve the contact and if even it did just mixing it longer would probably be the better option. The beauty with a mag stirrer is that you can mix it for a long ass time and breaking emulsions is as easy as putting it on/around the lowest setting then waiting. Just don't put it on max when mixing you can only need to start mixing the layers with a semi-vortex, time will do the rest.
You could rewash the sludge a few times but now I you would have to strongly question whether or not this makes things easier. So to summarize, in the scenario your described filtering out the bark could/would have some benefits but really you are adding extra complexity into something that shouldn't be a real issue to begin with. Add a few simple modifications that have less chance to lose yield and you're golden. Might also just be a good idea to find a tek using a mag stirrer?
Sorry, am a new member here but have been minorly succesful in the past.
SWIM wants to know the heat/vs time question, regardless of pH breakdown. SWIM has basic extraction knowledge, but would like to know the best interface method. Would the ieal be making an emulsion (for surface area) and then breaking it get the most transfer from 1 phase to the other?
SWIM has 'copy exacted' quoted tek, but it seems as in all cases is base->NPS is the nexus (no pun intended) of transfer, and a gas phase (air) entering the binary phase with air has added the emulsion... SWIM is just wondering a method that could be done cold and increase interface time between phases, for safety and looking for any helpful tips
SWIM wants to know the heat/vs time question, regardless of pH breakdown. SWIM has basic extraction knowledge, but would like to know the best interface method. Would the ieal be making an emulsion (for surface area) and then breaking it get the most transfer from 1 phase to the other?
SWIM has 'copy exacted' quoted tek, but it seems as in all cases is base->NPS is the nexus (no pun intended) of transfer, and a gas phase (air) entering the binary phase with air has added the emulsion... SWIM is just wondering a method that could be done cold and increase interface time between phases, for safety and looking for any helpful tips
In so many words... how lojng would it take for our plants to truly be spent, with time and saturation... SWIM has seen the pkA values, etc.. but is asking for wisdom... if one had something in base phase for many hours, at what pint is the bark ready for a nut-milk bag or something of the sort?